New Mexico

Matt and his partner Audrey live and work in Albuquerque. Matt is a medical provider (nurse practitioner) in a small community clinic and Audrey works in obstetrics at the University of the New Mexico hospital and at a nearby clinic.

The original motivation for our trip to the USA was to visit them in their new city. 

Matt has lived in multiple cities since he was in his final year of university and we hadn't visited him while he was living in any of them. 

He spent a semester in Senegal, a year in South Korea and two and a half years in Vietnam before going to Guatemala and Mexico for two and half years. He did come to join us in Mexico when we visited Nick there in 2022 but by then he was back at university studying nursing science. 

His did a residency in Seattle in 2025 which would have been a cool place to visit but we had just moved to Portugal and a trip back to the USA wasn't feasible that time.

So we made our first trip to visit him on his home turf.

We flew from Boston via Houston to Albuquerque on a Thursday night and were unexpectedly surprised by the effects of the 5300 feet (1,619m) altitude which left Anne breathless on the way from the airport gate to collect our luggage.

We had a trip the following day further north to a place called Jimenez hot springs on the day after we arrived.  We met John who I worked with and have been on many hikes and his wife, Angelika.  Matt and Audrey were working that day so Anne and I made my way in the little white Subaru that Matt had bought from me.

Jimenez hot springs

The water was as hot as a hot bath and we spent an hour hanging out and catching up in there.  I have to say that this is probably a better destination in the middle of winter but it was interesting because we started to feel a bit odd after a while.  Later we wondered if the altitude was also having an effect because it is another 1000ft higher than Albuquerque at 6100 (1900m).   We capped the visit off with some delicious pizza and locally brewed beer before driving back to Matt and Audrey's little adobe home.

Adobe house with Matt's VW beetle

Matt has bought a 1966 VW beetle which still has the original paintwork - it is a little worse for wear but runs great and plenty of people stopped and shouted encouragement to him either claiming that this was their first car, giving him the thumbs up or asking him if he wanted to sell it!

For the weekend Matt had booked us into an Earthship AirBnb in Taos.  We drove up on Saturday morning, crossing the Rio Grande river at a bridge that we had previously visited (in 2015) when Anne and I took a trip to Santa Fe and Taos.  The last time we were here we saw a few telephones at intervals on the bridge inviting people to make a call if they were feeling desperate.  This time there are signs prohibiting stopping on the bridge which might have resulted from what prompted them to put up the telephones originally.

We stopped at an overlook parking lot turnoff across the bridge with a small collection of vendors selling curios and a view of the gorge and the bridge.  The gorge is about 800ft deep here (240m).

Bridge over the Rio Grande in Toas

The Earthship houses were designed in the 1970s by Michael Reynolds who was looking for a way to build houses that used natural and recycled materials, were off-grid and used sustainable energy.  I was fascinated to see the Earthships when we arrived.  There are a number of them all built more more or less together in an area northwest of Taos.

AirBnb Earthship

The homes were intended to be buildable by someone with no specialized construction skills.  The back of the houses use earth-packed car tires with a mound of earth covering them on the south side.  The volume of earth provides heat shielding in the summer and maintains heat in the winter.  There are windows in the front facing north.  In our case there were also a few portable "swamp coolers" in the Earthship which kept it very cool.

Sitting room of the Earthship

Swamp coolers are an interesting design.  The concept dates back thousands of years but they are only really effective in very dry climates.  They rely on the fact that condensation cools wet material and were used in ancient times in doorways or windows where wet cloths were hung on dry, hot day to cool the air flowing in from the outside.

They began being mass produced around 1903 in the USA and got their nickname from the materials that were used in the early designs.   In areas where the climate was not dry enough  the air blown over the wet material could get a really musty odor reminiscent of a swamp when the air humidity was too high for effective use.  Matt and Audrey have one on the roof of their house that is essentially a big fan blowing through a filter that is continuously moistened by a reservoir of water.  It is very effective, cooling the house to around 20ºF  lower than the outside.  I've read that they are also used in Portugal where they are called climatizadores evaporativo.  They are effective in particular in the Alentejo region where it does get very hot and dry.

After we settled into the Earthship AirBnb I was keen to see what the night sky would be like in the outskirts of Taos and was not disappointed. 

Stars and the Earthship

I took a few test photos while I was setting up my camera to capture some star trails and in the one above, Matt volunteered to remove one of the solar lights stuck into the ground in the foreground because it was interfering with the shot.  The exposure was long enough that it captured the light illuminating the path Matt took with the light to the front door.

The star trails photo below is a composite of over 1600 images taken over a period of nearly two hours and then combined with software that our astronomer friend Marc showed me in South Africa last year.  The software is more commonly used to combine images with a telescope that tracks the earth's movement to give extremely clear images of galaxies when combined.   Multiple images of the same scene without tracking the stars yields light trails caused by the the earth's rotation and is very dramatic.  I always love the effect of the North Star which is a single point of light around which the remaining star's light rotates.

There are some straight lines which I think are a satellite and some airplane trails recorded during the multiple exposures, each of which were a few seconds apart.

Startrails using StarStax software

In the morning we walked from our Earthship towards some structures that had a Mad Max feel to them

Structures among the Earthships

Three dogs came to greet us, barking at us with wagging tails.  I wasn't about to trust them so we retreated even though a friendly neighbor drove past and stopped to tell us they would not hurt us.  He also said that these unusual structures were made by the same person who designed the Earthships and that he still visited Albuquerque occasionally.

There is a meditation pyramid with an interesting interior placed near these structures.

Matt cautiously approaching the Meditation pyramid

The walls inside have regularly spaced bottles embedded in them which also provide illumination near the top where the bottles are open to the sky.  It reminded me of some of the rooms in the famous Owl House in the Eastern Cape of South Africa.

Glass bottles inlaid in the walls inside the pyramid

On our way back from Taos we stopped for lunch at an amazing restaurant called the Tesuque Village Market.  It featured some great mural art

Tesuque Village Market mural

and the interior was very attractive

Interior of the market

The restaurant has a novel way of reducing the graffiti on the walls of their toilet.

Someone couldn't resist writing "ok" on the sign

The town also has a landscape feature that looks like a camel called "Camel rock".  It is visible from the highway and I was able to photograph it as we drove past.

Camel rock

The following Tuesday was Matt's day off.  Audrey also took a vacation day because Anne had booked us into a 90 min horse ride on the Ghost Ranch that was where Georgia O'Keefe spent most of her time between 1940 and 1980.

The ranch is situated in an incredible valley landscape which emerges suddenly as you crest a rise driving from the south.  The change from an environment predominantly tan and dark brown (like camel rock) into a vista with red, tan and khaki tones in a valley below is quite dramatic.

The scene feels like one from the many Westerns that I watched as a pre-teen at the local drive-in in Kimberley.  My dad was a big fan of westerns and would take the family to see them.  He had a huge collection of soft-cover westerns which is how I was introduced to voluntary reading during the summer vacations as a teenager after my brother described reading a western to being like watching a movie.

During the horse ride we learned that the movie "City Slickers" with Billy Crystal was filmed on this farm and we ended up re-watching it a few nights later to relive the scenery.

Breathtaking vista at the Ghost Ranch

The horses were docile and easy to ride, although I was warned that of all the horses, mine was the one that objected to all other other horses being nearby.  

In fact, we all watched while we were waiting to mount the horses as one of the wranglers went into the nearby paddock and unsuccessfully tried to rouse my horse (who was lying prone and napping).  A second person went over to help and I was thinking "I hope this isn't the horse I'll be riding", but it was.  

Anne freely admits that having daytime nap instantly leads to a bad temper and I expected the horse to have the same reaction.

At a stop on the 90 min trail in the ranch

So my horse spend most of the ride with his ears back.  

The wrangler riding behind me said it was because he was not the last one in the train and that her horse behind me was what was bothering him.  I had to hold him back a bit when we went through a couple of arroyos because he would pick up speed on the way up the other side and get too close to the horse in front of him, resulting in somewhat aggressive behavior.  

In the photo above the wrangler who took it said she'd position the mesa in the gap between me and the other horses so that I could use it as the excuse for the big gap, but the truth is that that was as close as my horse was willing to stand to the others without trying to give one of them a nip.

Anne and Matt ahead of us in an arroyo

Other than that, the ride was uneventful and a really enjoyable experience.

Anne and St Francis

Taos is around 7000ft (2000m) above sea level and after the trip when we returned home we were commenting on how these altitude differences affected Anne's breathing but the combination of driving, the two hour time difference and the altitude had also affected me.

In my case it was a bit of mental fog which caused some hilarity when I boldly asked Matt after we arrived back from Taos if the early star in the sky was Juniper.  "You mean Jupiter, right?" he said.   I was a little dumbfounded at the easy slip of the tongue and Anne pulled me aside and asked me if I was alright.  It wasn't till later on when I googled the effects of altitude changes that I realized that it is fairly common for a little mental confusion to creep in at altitudes like this and we were reassured that I wasn't suddenly showing signs of age-induced mental decline! 

The following day Anne and I were left to our own devices because both Matt and Audrey had to work.  They told us that we could take a free train ride to Santa Fe and so we joined number of other old people (60 and above get a free ride) heading for a day trip.

Anne's favorite Saint is St Francis and we visited a statue in front of the big cathedral above the Santa Fe plaza.

We visited the Aubuquerque museum and I took a little side trip to the most dangerous museum - a museum of rattlesnakes and various strange collectibles including an exhibit of Steve Irwin's TV show and a number of collectibles associated with it.

A friend from New England messaged me on to say that he and his wife would be in Albuquerque at the same time as us.  I asked him if he had two guitars because he has a legendary list of songs that he can sing (at last guess I'll bet it is close to 500).  We spent an afternoon catching up on our adventures (he has just retired) and playing songs.

On the Saturday Matt took us for a couple of walks to see some petroglyphs in the hills.  These are markings in the rocks made by the Pueblo people up to 800 years ago.

Petroglyphs

Later that evening we walked up to three small remnants of a volcanic eruption in the Rio Grande Rift.  A desolate looking walk which leads to a beautiful location for the sunset.

Walking to a sunset view - photo by Anne

One the way we came across a pair of coyotes who stopped to study us and then with an air of indifference loped across the path in front of us.  My phone had died but Anne was able to capture them.

We met with some birders on the Sunday.  It is amazing how many hummingbirds we saw in this very dry landscape. 

Hummingbird 

There were quite a few hovering and settling briefly in the trees along the path that we walked.  The nature center is in a reserve that runs along the Rio Grande in Albuquerque and we were treated so views of several bird species including a pair of young Great Horned Owls.

Great Horned Owl chicks

A few of Matt and Audrey's friends and neighbors came over for drinks and food in the evening.  It was great to meet them and find out more about their lives.

On our last day and we went with Matt to an archery range where he is trying out a new hobby.  Anne and I took turns shooting with a lightweight compound bow.

Anne and Matt at the archery range

The afternoon ended with a surprising downpour - a fairly rare event at this time of the year followed by a dinner at a Vietnamese restaurant that was open.  The day was Memorial day so quite a few shops and restaurants were closed.
 

New England

I'll admit that we were a little apprehensive about our trip to the US.  We had tried to shift our focus to more local and regional news but the stories of heavy handed police action and the overall anti-non-US-born tone coming from the USA had been difficult to ignore.

Our arrival at Boston airport reset the tone.  The customs official was friendly and welcomed us with a "I've heard that Portugal is a wonderful place to retire!  Welcome back!"

Driving from the airport, Anne kept on gasping at the amazing new greens of the plants waking up to spring and the vibrant colors of the blossoms and new leaves on trees lining the streets.

Spring in Boston - photo by Anne

As usual we stayed at the Swampscott house of the first American friend we'd met when we came over here in 2001. Mary has a sweet little dog, Trixie, who likes to watch TV and barks hilariously at any animal that appears on the screen.

Trixie on guard

We ended up being a bit frantic over the few days in New England, driving miles to meet close friends in suburbs far apart.  One friend pointed out that we should organize an event-based catch-up and invite people over rather than trying to cram in lunch and dinner dates.  Unfortunately we didn't get to see everyone that we wanted to see so we are going to aim for something less frenetic the next time we visit.

Leaving an established home is no joke.  Each of our visits back to South Africa and now to the USA reminds us of close friends we have left behind and of course raises questions about the wisdom of choosing to relocate in the first place.  We have resolved this question rationally but the heart may have a more nuanced story than the one we tell ourselves when the topic comes up.

photo by Anne

We have been recounting to our friends here how much we love living in Portugal.   The sense of community and friendships that are developing there are exceptional given how difficult it is to make connections as you get older.  I think the reason is that we are surrounded by people who took the leap themselves and are as open to socializing and making friends as we are.

Some of the friendships that we have in New England were formed in the months before we relocated to Portugal and we found ourselves wishing that we'd known them for longer!  One of the couples are parents of an outstanding ex-pupil of Anne's and they invited us to join them for a few days at their cottage on Martha's Vineyard.

I had been there once before for a work retreat where we got to see very little of the island so it was amazing to have another chance for a very informed tour of all of the towns and regions of the island. 

We walked on to the ferry in Wood's Hole and were picked up by Tom and Dottie at the ferry landing point in the Vineyard.

Ferry coming into Vineyard Haven

The weather was cool but perfect for driving around and learning about some of the historical high-lights (and lows) of the island's history.

A very quaint area in Oak's Bluff started as a Methodist campground which over the years evolved into little cottages built on the footprint of the original tent sites.  

Gingerbread house in the Methodist campsite - photo by Anne

We were taken on tours of the five towns of the island with highlights that included views of all but one of the lighthouses,

Gay Head light - photo by Anne

and the incredible clay cliffs of Aquinnah (formerly Gay Head) beach.  The red rock of the cliff turns out to be malleable red clay!

Rain fed etching of red on the beach from the clay cliff

The cliffs are beautiful.

Gay Head cliffs 

and our friend had us stand for a portrait with the cliffs, lighthouse and mainland of Cape Cod in our background.

photo by Tom

We visited the botanical gardens and drove past some really interesting trees with branches hanging almost to the ground and stretching out like a spider.

In the botanical gardens we came across these simple chairs that I'm going to try to replicate when we stop traveling.  The design is very simple and they are quite comfortable! 

Adirondack chair design

Portuguese e America club

We stopped for lunch at a restaurant called Mo's lunch in the buildings of the Portuguese American club and it was cool to see their emblem on the wall.  

The restaurant leases the space so there was no Portuguese spoken there but this is one of quite a few such clubs in the North East.

Another highlight was the sculpture garden (called the field gallery) which was founded in 1970 in West Tisbury.  The sculptures are playful and we walked around the garden in the evening sun.

Anne posed with one of the sculptures.

Anne and the leaning woman

We visited a beautiful gallery the next morning with an entire room devoted to the photographer Alfred Eisenstaedt who spent over 50 summers in the Vineyard from 1930 till his death on the island in 1995.  His iconic images included many celebrities and the famous kiss in Time's Square on V-J day.

Alfred Eisenstaedt gallery

The gallery is beautifully curated with displays and supporting books and includes beautiful contemporary art of residents and past residents of the island.

It was a lovely visit and Tom and Dottie gave us such a warm welcome and a very interesting tour with great historical anecdotes.    

In all, my only regret is not figuring out a way to see more people.  We'll have to plan the next visit better.

After New England we are on to New Mexico to see Matt and Audrey.

Two years in Portugal

We celebrated the beginning of our third year in Portugal on the 27th of February and spent the first few months of the year enjoying the improvements that we had made to heating water for the house, including the underfloor heating.

It didn't take long to figure out once the electrical bill started climbing, what we had saved with the wood-burning kitchen stove vs what winter would cost in the future with the new electrical systems (stove and heat pump).  The firewood increased to €185 per tonne (approximately half a cord) last year so the 6 tonnes (3 cords) would have cost €955 this year.  As the electrical bills came in it became apparent that we were not going to be saving much even with the efficient heat pump (€1500 between October and April) so we will have to accelerate getting the solar panels installed.

Since I last posted we took a trip to England

London, for Thanksgiving?  American traditions

in November to celebrate Thanksgiving with three of our children (Matt was planning to join us for Christmas in Portugal).   

Thanksgiving is our favorite holiday

 

Back in Portugal, we are part of an informal hiking group, and enjoyed a few hikes in October and November before the weather got consistently rainy.  There are plenty of really nice walks within a short distance of us, some along the coastline and others further inland. 

Lagging behind to record the hike

Our group takes turns to lead walks and we've led two so far since we joined.

In December we had a visit from Nick and his girlfriend Vanessa.  We spent a couple of days in Lisbon where we walked to a few Christmas Markets and visited a design museum.

Christmas Market at Parque Eduardo VII

  We picked Matt up at Lisbon's airport and traveled further north to Nazaré 

Nazaré lighthouse and waves

where we got to see surfers being pulled into the gigantic waves.  

Just after releasing the tow rope

Back in the Algarve we were invited to celebrate a wonderful Christmas day with our Scandinavian neighbors who sang entertaining songs each time a toast was made. 

A Scandinavian Christmas in the Algarve

As the rains came we hunkered down, spending time on personal projects at home, interspersed with hikes and alternate jam sessions with two guitarists I have been playing with.

Playing with Marcus

 Emma and Jess also came to spend a few days with us in March and the sunny weather showed up for them.

At the Alte waterfall

Our Portuguese classes continue.  We have finished the course work for A2 - which is shorthand for basic verbal and written literacy but unfortunately is not enough to really have a good conversation with a native speaker, unless they are very patient and speak slowly.  But we are determined to keep working at it and spend almost every morning with some activity like crosswords, conjugation exercises or a little reading.

We have planned two trips for this year.  The first to Albuquerque, New Mexico to meet Matt and his partner and the second to Namibia to travel inland into the game reserves, going up to Etosha Pan and the Okavango swamps.

 Since we have already left for the USA I'll have an update on the trip there fairly soon.

 

Road trip to France part 2 (coming home)

The first stop on our way back was a quick stop at a hotel in Santa Maria de Solius.   There was a lovely swimming pool which we were happy to see after the three and a half hour drive from Arles.

Our next stop was the town of Reus, in Spain which is the birthplace of Antoni Gaudi.  We stopped at the very interesting Gaudi Museum - we had decided on this trip to avoid the tourist traps of Madrid and Barcelona so we bypassed both of them and this was a good way to get some exposure to Gaudi's work.  We'll visit again in the winter when the tourist population is down and when we are less likely to be targeted by local protestors of the tourist invasion. 

The museum is lovely and has a great audio tour, although we watched the introductory film almost all the way through listening to the music without realizing that there was narration going on in the earpieces that we had hanging around our necks!

Anne in the first auditorium

After the Gaudi museum we visited Casa Navas which is a famous house of a rich aristocrat from the town.

Casa Navas entrance hall from above

The architect who designed the house used a style that Gaudi elaborated on in Barcelona with his famous buildings.  Gaudi had been one of his students.

I found the stories about the Spanish Civil War (the town was bombed by Nationalists and this house was quite severely damaged) and also the evidence of the desire for independence of Catalonia which we saw in Costa Brava and here very interesting.  I guess I need to read more about it.

We had a few short stops in  Spain on the way back.  The first we realized was going to be very hot and had a 7pm check-in time.  The summer heatwave was in full swing and this was inland with no cooling and was a shared apartment.  So we booked another at the last minute in Benicasim which turned out to be lovely,  It was a short distance to a beach and we were able to wash our clothes and cool down in the heat.

We had arrived quite late and had a lunch date with a friend in Alicante so we weren't able to really settle in there for more than just the overnight.

The apartment had some interesting deco.

We left fairly early and met our friend in the apartment that she and her husband have in Alicante with a beautiful sea view out from their porch.

View from the apartment.

She is Iranian and we had a very informative conversation with her about the history and tragedy of that part of the world.  There is so much to learn and it is incredible how two-dimensional and paper-thin our knowledge of these really ancient places is, where some of the most profound ideas in chemistry, mathematics and philosophy originated.

After stopping in Alicante we drove for a few hours to  Orihuela where we stayed in a tiny AirBnb for the night.

Orihuela AirBnb rooftop - photo by Anne

We were into the last week of our trip and these short stops were really nothing more than sleepovers and a quick stopover at the local beach, but it was good to discover some of these places for future visits.  

Our next stop was Málaga after driving through more of the tunnels and past the unsightly plastic covered vegetable agriculture called the "Mar de plástico". This "plastic sea" has brought tons of money into Spain and France but they are unsightly and seemingly quite harmful pollutants.

Plastic covered vegetable agriculture

The entrance into Málaga is very scenic through a number of low mountains.  Anne had booked us into a hotel for 2 nights as a birthday present so that we could explore the city. 

The very friendly receptionist gave us our room key and interrupted our apologetic reference to the quality of our Spanish.  When she saw that we were from Portugal she explained that the Spanish love Portugal because it is Spain's sister and has never invaded Spain.  We thought this was a great take on history, as we have experienced numerous discussions to the contrary.

We settled in and walked to find a restaurant for dinner and were greeted by some unusual wall art on the building nearby depicting what looked like a racoon and some rats and squirrels trying to escape from certain death above the bones of friends who hadn't made it.

Bones below some desperate creatures

 We planned to visit some landmarks on our first full day there and were quite enchanted by the city streets and old buildings.

We stopped to admire a large cathedral before making our way towards a Moorish castle called Alcazaba which featured some lovely architecture

Reflecting pool in the Moorish castle - photo by Anne

and gave us a great view of the city harbor.

View of Málaga harbor from Alcazaba

Our daughter had told us that we could find a secret door at the bottom of the tower associated with the castle but we decided not to visit it because we had a fairly full day ahead that included a visit to the Picasso museum.

We stopped to look at the Roman Theater where we enjoyed some a capella  singing in the street and a harpist at the castle gate.
 

a capella sinnger - photo by Anne

The Roman Theater was not as impressive as the one we had seen in Arles.  This one was also built in the 1st Century but was only discovered in 1951 after having been buried for many centuries.

Roman Theater in Málaga

We decided to stop at an impressive cathedral with the equally impressive name.

Santa Iglesia Catedral Basílica de la Encarnación de Málaga

 

The Cathedral contains a beautiful centerpiece which was in the process of being mopped and dusted.

Some dusting and cleaning in the church.

 

 

 

 

 

There are many beautiful wood carvings of saints in the three tiered 44 seat Baroque choir section.  The carvings are intricate and depict saints of Málaga and other religious scenes.  Anne noticed a woman warrior carving but we couldn't find much information about who she was or what the scene was depicting.

The sword in her hand is in the eye of the apparently severed head of a man.  Searching for a possible explanation of this figure was not very helpful.  However, after I posted that I had given up trying to find out who this statue depicted, my daughter sent me the following and said she had found it with a simple google search!

Biblical Origin: The story comes from the Old Testament Apocrypha and depicts Judith, a virtuous widow, who saves her people by seducing and then beheading the Assyrian general Holofernes.
Symbolism: The story is often interpreted as a symbol of courage, female strength, and the triumph of a just cause over tyranny.

 

 

Saint Judith with a sword in the eye of a defeated man - photo by Anne

 

The Pablo Picasso museum was an important stop for us in the city.  

 Pablo Picasso was born in Málaga and his mother, whom he adored, lived there all of her life.

We were particularly impressed by the large print machine he used for printmaking that was on display in the museum.

Picasso's printmaking press - photo by Anne

 

We saw some interesting images from exhibitions of surreal painters of the time and, of course drawings of Picasso's include one of his mother.

Drawing by Picasso of his mother - photo by Anne

Anne has conflicted feelings about him because he didn't treat women well, but he is a towering figure in art.  There were photos and commentary displayed in a timeline of his life.  He lived in tumultuous times, through both world wars and was a force in art for many decades.

The basement of the museum is an archaeological site containing walls and artifacts from Phoenician Roman times extending back to 300 or 400 years BCE.

A colorful market in Málaga

We had an evening meal at a lovely restaurant with waiters who were very friendly and entertaining.  The waiters told us of a cafe that made the most amazing churros and said that we should make our way there early the next morning because it is a very popular place.

We were not disappointed.  We had a short wait when we got there at about 8:15am and were served delicious churros with chocolate dip.

It was a straight shot from Málaga to our home.  About a four and a half hour drive and back into the routines of our normal life.  

We were due to be surprised to discover a late night intruder who stopped by to rifle through our things and clear out all the loose money we had, which has shaken our complacency and prompted us to take more of an interest in security, keeping our house shuttered at night and when we are away.  More about that next time.