tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-83448444210998484272024-03-15T01:27:28.875-07:00@HomeTimhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12828578695145994984noreply@blogger.comBlogger200125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8344844421099848427.post-27371021049668544222024-03-14T03:04:00.000-07:002024-03-14T03:04:36.512-07:00Some lessons<p>Settling into the new home and surroundings has been a bit of a roller coaster.</p><p>The wood stove oven (and central heater) does a nice job of heating the house but turning on the under floor heating puts some strain on its ability to maintain the tank temperature at a level that makes for comfortable showers.<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz2lRAhXHTuGZUPSRlFUt5lFp1BkGmMKtrN_pBH5aHYbausi_RaJRwZDXy3MZq3rtxrP8DYFTgeINFO6COUhQ5LFHW8vzORRky55nx4Y-jB5vguvcbltFORCVz8e13cbbYNOcDnfZSSoGvb5We_lQEMSqXVlpzCnfog_gmJvk_5IBtLr4Gyw6w7Z9wJYQ/s5712/IMG_5283.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4284" data-original-width="5712" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz2lRAhXHTuGZUPSRlFUt5lFp1BkGmMKtrN_pBH5aHYbausi_RaJRwZDXy3MZq3rtxrP8DYFTgeINFO6COUhQ5LFHW8vzORRky55nx4Y-jB5vguvcbltFORCVz8e13cbbYNOcDnfZSSoGvb5We_lQEMSqXVlpzCnfog_gmJvk_5IBtLr4Gyw6w7Z9wJYQ/w640-h480/IMG_5283.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p>A tank temperature of 30°C yields a luke-warm shower while 40°C is on the edge of being hot enough to make you wonder if you should turn on a little bit of cold.</p><p>Maintaining the wood stove during the winter takes effort. It is much like the wood stove we had in our previous house in that regard. It was raining quite a bit in our first week so we didn't had a good chance to see how the sun influenced the temperature of the water. The photovoltaic cells on one or two days were generating enough heat to at least contribute a little to the effort.</p><p>The underfloor heating is on a separate circuit and so we have learned to turn it off overnight so that the cooling oven is still able to maintain the water temperature.</p><p>As it has warmed, the photovoltaic system and wood stove working together have driven the temperature up to 60°C. When we arrived the tank was at 20°C after no external heat for about 3 months so if we can maintain the tank at 60°C if could make the floor heating more effective and less of a drain on the heat and allow us to have comfortable showers! We'll have to see.<br /></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwdF33w_WyzPi_h7iN2Zkq0Sdjojrl0Wc1Sw4tZOGnmVDZIsypJ3E55009yryYsC4eJaK9v5IPAVUhlFh1OXtkjT6bqux7PVtl6uW-aVFQd87LON0g1xLuc8ttSzHdEIR7m1SLl_DeJwkl5VfqgI-9EegdZ8e1ajcR_VEOqxyaYsoodTqP6wUxry4fxmY/s5712/IMG_5294.heic" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5712" data-original-width="4284" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwdF33w_WyzPi_h7iN2Zkq0Sdjojrl0Wc1Sw4tZOGnmVDZIsypJ3E55009yryYsC4eJaK9v5IPAVUhlFh1OXtkjT6bqux7PVtl6uW-aVFQd87LON0g1xLuc8ttSzHdEIR7m1SLl_DeJwkl5VfqgI-9EegdZ8e1ajcR_VEOqxyaYsoodTqP6wUxry4fxmY/w300-h400/IMG_5294.heic" width="300" /></a></div><p></p><p>Each of the toilets have a small hose and a spray gun which, let's just say, have been an interesting experiment in alternatives to toilet paper. The taps in two of the bathrooms can be adjusted to warm the water, but given our first week's experimentation with heated water this is also something I haven't felt justifies waiting for the water to run hot. The effect is a little alarming and I have a love-hate relationship with the practice. I suspect I'll warm to it over time.<br /></p><p>We have needed a lot of things. The previous occupants stripped most things that we'd have expected to be left. Mirrors, some light fittings and shelves in the built-in cupboards were all removed. </p><p>So we have made multiple trips to the local hardware store, eventually caving towards the end of this week to buy some power tools which I have put to good use: mounting brackets in the under-stairs storage room for brooms etc and moving the TV wall mount downstairs. There will be many more little projects that will no doubt occupy weekends for a good while to come.</p><p>I have never really considered myself a handyman although I do have a few projects that I completed in our first house in South Africa. I was pretty happy to see in the realty photographs that went up for our old house in Cross Street, Grahamstown that the built-in cupboards and book case in one of the front rooms are still intact.</p><p>The big problem with not being quite handy enough is starting a project that quickly deteriorates into disaster. My worst moments involved floods of water under a kitchen sink where I had just replaced a seal or when I stripped a bolt deep in a cavity of the engine of a car we owned.</p><p>It seems almost certain that living in Portugal is going to involve lots of handiwork and I had a pretty successful weekend with a succession of projects that involved drilling holes into concrete and mounting brackets and hooks for various objects. I learned how to replace a lock on the garage door - which turned out to be pretty simple once I watched a you-tube video on the topic.</p><p>We also did a little exploring in the farmland near our house - we are right on the edge of the hamlet so we are able to amble along a farm road just outside our gate.</p><p>The rain has been good, given the news about how long the drought has been in the Algarve. It is funny how your attitude towards rain changes based on the knowledge of how rare it is. We have welcomed it and have marveled at how the landscape has greened and how many little flowers have sprouted up all over the place.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx53BTV7jlQ_gREIvxuztnVaawEhz2m-eqrds6wON-A_S24uXHpRrzZo1JUTltdhsGg4bYqGo3qi905BP4zIu1y4k8Fc57dBpftTLG1GkvoUdCX0Bauc_LmDQUNim8Hdl7284xZ3e_HrlQETIlS-L-puKom2dScZ9a1LWhwIO7MMFxm_p87dyr_7i9M8Q/s5712/IMG_5284.heic" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4284" data-original-width="5712" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx53BTV7jlQ_gREIvxuztnVaawEhz2m-eqrds6wON-A_S24uXHpRrzZo1JUTltdhsGg4bYqGo3qi905BP4zIu1y4k8Fc57dBpftTLG1GkvoUdCX0Bauc_LmDQUNim8Hdl7284xZ3e_HrlQETIlS-L-puKom2dScZ9a1LWhwIO7MMFxm_p87dyr_7i9M8Q/w640-h480/IMG_5284.heic" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p>The soil here is very rocky. In the distance in the photograph above is a roughly 5ft (1.5m) wall comprised of huge rocks that appear to have been dug from the ground. The rocks vary in size but some of them are as big as a fridge.<br /></p><p>It is going to make things interesting for us as we look at garden projects.</p><p>On one visit to the hardware store Anne and I had a moment where our strategies for planning projects collided. I'm fairly conservative in my approach - picking the first thing that I think we need to do and then working on that till it is accomplished before looking at what's next - a natural offshoot of my technology work. Anne has the whole vision and is quite happy to get everything that she imagines we need before starting on it.<br /></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju924WwLGt9ppFpJj-WSXkTPj0BJxet_n5DCm_KiOcfnN8KJfwdYW08TUnLZpRQhVCJMoqCj-rNNDdzF4OKu8aJOq2CicBlogc6MxJEIchfNWjg4oizoBxCLk2AFy2JxRfhLNHeBQLAzQytLt28U6VSIq_Yo9opjrf9eSrOlxtB3mSoBI5wDH1uTK_COk/s5712/IMG_5301.heic" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4284" data-original-width="5712" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju924WwLGt9ppFpJj-WSXkTPj0BJxet_n5DCm_KiOcfnN8KJfwdYW08TUnLZpRQhVCJMoqCj-rNNDdzF4OKu8aJOq2CicBlogc6MxJEIchfNWjg4oizoBxCLk2AFy2JxRfhLNHeBQLAzQytLt28U6VSIq_Yo9opjrf9eSrOlxtB3mSoBI5wDH1uTK_COk/w400-h300/IMG_5301.heic" width="400" /></a></div>So we found ourselves arguing in the hardware store because we had decided that we wanted to put up a circular wash line. Anne was loading the cart with all the necessary components and implements needed to install one (the wash and its base, spades, picks etc.). I on the other hand wanted to buy only a spade and a pick - thinking that our first step was to dig a hole and was determined to only do that step before looking for the rest of the inventory. I mean, honestly, what if we can't even dig the hole?<br /><p></p><p>We've been together for long enough for this not to have been a crisis, but it did take a minutes of heated explanations on both our parts. Anne's point of view prevailed as it often does in these situations and we arrived back home with all we imagined might be needed to complete the project.<br /></p><p>We took a while to dig the hole because after we determined that the ground is very rocky we also started to wonder whether there are any electrical cables buried in some shallow trench where we had planned to dig. So we left it for a few days before resuming with caution.<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY9ElOg34LYu8-CidZnhiGW32G25PTPZSdnMJm8uwiZw4vmR9qsPNKhnHBboXe-mXEoQoyzgi2UL-E0MqckESVb-SUbZPPZ_hs1q-q6cUbXkHJAtoRkrafDPJTDjDoDqHF3bTPnnt1foQSFojPU_PWnUO-YLl2snay4Ec0tkuHX2R6Cc10VhKCbaffZ7I/s5569/IMG_5303.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4180" data-original-width="5569" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY9ElOg34LYu8-CidZnhiGW32G25PTPZSdnMJm8uwiZw4vmR9qsPNKhnHBboXe-mXEoQoyzgi2UL-E0MqckESVb-SUbZPPZ_hs1q-q6cUbXkHJAtoRkrafDPJTDjDoDqHF3bTPnnt1foQSFojPU_PWnUO-YLl2snay4Ec0tkuHX2R6Cc10VhKCbaffZ7I/w640-h480/IMG_5303.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>Another huge expense has been getting a car. We sold our two cars last year and have kept the money aside for what we'll use in Portugal - even so, it is tough to lay out that much money in so short a time. Probably no surprise that we went over our budget for the car by about a third to buy a second hand hybrid. We justified it with the knowledge that the more expensive car will be very fuel-efficient. Fuel is costly here at around 1.74EU per litre (that's about $7US per gallon). We should have the car later next week.</p><p>In the meantime, Anne has been informed that her temporary residence visa is ready and can be added to her passport. We don't regret coming here before the consulate let us know that the
visa was ready because we already feel a lot more settled than we did
two weeks ago. <br /></p><p>Anne has an option to mail the passport into the Boston consulate and have them send it back to her, but she does have to be outside of Portugal for this process so that the new visa can be stamped at the border when she returns as a temporary resident. The logistics of this are unfolding but will have Anne visiting our daughters in England for a few days. Flights at short notice to the USA are incredibly expensive right now so the choice was $90 to England vs $1440 each way to the USA.<br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMVjdyUAoklT9P_IZTidS0qHmMz9J7NCM8dPNq0lSupC-pSpzl5yUYLS0DhzKbrpXrS93Ee0Dc1W2VxrvES4b-J64a4I7rl4hjbF-9VtwWlSIUYkLkoZA6R73gQ7uIwcs2OFGR57xdJ52hewCR9M9EYQGdaXYM_FZZYz7X2fEmp-ogzro5T0ZMJlLjlpw/s3434/EFE36CF8-4A6B-45E1-A951-694AAD9FBE80.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1946" data-original-width="3434" height="362" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMVjdyUAoklT9P_IZTidS0qHmMz9J7NCM8dPNq0lSupC-pSpzl5yUYLS0DhzKbrpXrS93Ee0Dc1W2VxrvES4b-J64a4I7rl4hjbF-9VtwWlSIUYkLkoZA6R73gQ7uIwcs2OFGR57xdJ52hewCR9M9EYQGdaXYM_FZZYz7X2fEmp-ogzro5T0ZMJlLjlpw/w640-h362/EFE36CF8-4A6B-45E1-A951-694AAD9FBE80.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cafe and playground in Silves<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p> </p><p>So I'll be spending the first weekend alone in the new house. Since 2020 and the COVID lockdowns Anne and I have been more or less joined at the hip, so it will be weird to be apart for a few days. There are plenty of projects here that I'll be able to work on in the meantime.</p><p>Anne has insisted that none of them include climbing a ladder - we have to still figure out the emergency response situation.<br /></p><p><br /></p>Timhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12828578695145994984noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8344844421099848427.post-81155080963328626522024-03-02T13:24:00.000-08:002024-03-02T13:24:20.689-08:00Empty House<p>The trip from the airport to our new house involved a few stops that we couldn't avoid. We had to stop to sort out getting a Portuguese mobile phone plan and look into the internet, on our way to an appointment with the lawyer who handled the sale, to get the keys of the house. After that a quick trip to my cousin's house to pick up a bag that we left there after our last visit and then we had stop to buy a few necessities.</p><div>We have been using a small handle-shaped scale to make sure that our suitcases weren't over the aircraft limit. Anne did a great job in the last hour before we left organizing and balancing all the luggage weight. I had a duffel bag with all my clothing and a second suitcase with all of our important documentation plus whatever miscellaneous other items Anne chose to include. I also had a carry-on bag well over the aircraft limit with all my camera gear and my computer and iPad.<br /></div><div><br /></div><div>Anne had paid for one extra suitcase so that she could bring all of her "things of importance" (art studio in a box, creative writing, etc.) and a bunch of other things she described as "things to make it a home" including a small ceramic face that Jessica made at her preschool in Grahamstown when she was four. It has a big lopsided grin and a blob of a nose and had been hanging outside the door of all of our previous houses. This thing weighs a pound or two and looks to me like a face of one of the totems that scare off evil spirits. <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7yjoZbgd_lRI2JcWz4H_2Thw6lzG_2yN2mmjGe5zEL2_OCRt4qVTEN9KyXjnqiddJ0Pv6ubN9NQ_ui78TJq1XDTYWZ9Igo-nZkifPKcYDhUYVkJvkWLJs0S8lizSndJLC6zPdXz2ytP-VDG_5V7ALPVWlpiZk-jsDVFJLU7mwbRG2zG9M9Z88TeiuxuY/s5712/IMG_5279.HEIC" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5712" data-original-width="4284" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7yjoZbgd_lRI2JcWz4H_2Thw6lzG_2yN2mmjGe5zEL2_OCRt4qVTEN9KyXjnqiddJ0Pv6ubN9NQ_ui78TJq1XDTYWZ9Igo-nZkifPKcYDhUYVkJvkWLJs0S8lizSndJLC6zPdXz2ytP-VDG_5V7ALPVWlpiZk-jsDVFJLU7mwbRG2zG9M9Z88TeiuxuY/w300-h400/IMG_5279.HEIC" width="300" /></a></div></div><div>One of the suitcases had sheets and a duvet for the bed that we had arranged to be left behind for us and also a few table cloths.</div><div><br /></div><div>I was, of course, anxious about a few things. We knew what we had not been told about our previous home when we bought it and we have friends with horror stories about omissions in the details of the house that cost them a bomb to fix. I was waiting to see what we would uncover when we arrived here.</div><div><br /></div><div>I was also worried about the airline wanting to check the bag with my really heavy camera gear and computer.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj0Qv9hHe8ZCzh0xd_vUgwPHtywZzTn6Y68WejAqCUu4TbQzKzyC8s_-hnzuGy0xDJEOVEtRhhtZEVlLyWjcFv_zU7IhODc_MZy1lBc53aboJ98tMR1JolOJ4zoHTTRyvY9SzOKMab91P4Me3y__IAMktxZQLkRMnRR1qPmQqSp2QNiohm0-vLlAjymUA/s4032/IMG_5255.HEIC" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj0Qv9hHe8ZCzh0xd_vUgwPHtywZzTn6Y68WejAqCUu4TbQzKzyC8s_-hnzuGy0xDJEOVEtRhhtZEVlLyWjcFv_zU7IhODc_MZy1lBc53aboJ98tMR1JolOJ4zoHTTRyvY9SzOKMab91P4Me3y__IAMktxZQLkRMnRR1qPmQqSp2QNiohm0-vLlAjymUA/w400-h300/IMG_5255.HEIC" width="400" /></a></div></div><div><br /></div><div>Amazingly the check-in at the air port was really smooth. I apologized for the 5 large suitcases and the person doing the check-in said "this is nothing!" I think because all of them were exactly at the maximum allowed she didn't think to check anything other than the dimensions of my bag - which she did by asking me to turn around to show it to her.</div><div><br /></div><div>The luggage was checked all the way through to our final destination even though we had a 5 hour layover in Lisbon which meant that we wouldn't have trouble lugging it over long distances through both airports.</div><div><br /></div><div>So the flights went off without a hitch. We were of course, exhausted. Neither of us were able to sleep on the 6 hour flight to Lisbon or in the airport.</div><div><br /></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkhDSonpD7l2Y2yVU1H_Nppfc8lMNlJ22Et1turh2QAgN8cwbGzyTN53ImMgqeU2PJz1veFzy9EN-FS_78xB9tIsYSmMSwWpQASs2rE9Xm-Srm0pGhidNRO2ysk5f7qx794UapsYv0Uf5U8ceXe_OvjVkG4U5uQnflyYYuv7yotaoJp_phwjNk_giN9xc/s4032/IMG_5256.HEIC" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkhDSonpD7l2Y2yVU1H_Nppfc8lMNlJ22Et1turh2QAgN8cwbGzyTN53ImMgqeU2PJz1veFzy9EN-FS_78xB9tIsYSmMSwWpQASs2rE9Xm-Srm0pGhidNRO2ysk5f7qx794UapsYv0Uf5U8ceXe_OvjVkG4U5uQnflyYYuv7yotaoJp_phwjNk_giN9xc/w640-h480/IMG_5256.HEIC" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lunch on our way from the airport. Albufeira shopping center<br /></td></tr></tbody></table> </div><div>We landed at 5:20am in Lisbon after leaving at 6pm the previous night (+5 hour time difference) and finished the little shopping we had to do at about 5:30pm, arriving at the new house just around sunset at 6:18pm<br /></div><div><br /></div><div>We were absolutely exhausted.</div><div><br /></div><div>The house is walled in by a high fence and a pair of gates with hydraulic arms. They opened beautifully as we pulled up and we edged in with Anne excitedly going to the front door to let me in while I stood at the gate pressing buttons to get them to close. They budged and locked up and budged again but would not close.<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw2P1TOcIcAOM_JJYRscA40qpHbRrjmKE4KNnU4FJekoTMn2h3EKALDG6i0-fd5HV5SG1EbqdMa2iiHrmxNUyRnzsCVDqgmSLCn8s6m6fx6J0x7LCFJ3N_ENKjRbbp3qWHbXvlpt9dd6y6VwIVtn93yY9T0gPtmKM9Q-O7RRTdv0-emKutzsL_aCc5rc8/s3573/IMG_5271.HEIC" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2680" data-original-width="3573" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw2P1TOcIcAOM_JJYRscA40qpHbRrjmKE4KNnU4FJekoTMn2h3EKALDG6i0-fd5HV5SG1EbqdMa2iiHrmxNUyRnzsCVDqgmSLCn8s6m6fx6J0x7LCFJ3N_ENKjRbbp3qWHbXvlpt9dd6y6VwIVtn93yY9T0gPtmKM9Q-O7RRTdv0-emKutzsL_aCc5rc8/w640-h480/IMG_5271.HEIC" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Walled garden and a flapping shade cloth on the list to fix<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /></div><div>I gave up and we made our triumphal entrance into the empty echoing house - it has a few essential pieces of furniture - a couch, a large bed, a table with chairs and a small desk with a desk chair.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxJ8QWRTfPmwZnu9SJ46sQ2gqSXJZBTyem-16HqGw6aZqm1zVZ9V9dpT8wIKLG94Af59ptYxgEEkiGI-ltSJfCfHgkJFCwuLQBw9QAGDrA9u5HdBGEz7BVEq6MxZbriN6HfzRrTXKexY49eio9vaQGVbGCW4o6fcmwEQap9LaKjPF6PlEJ8H0fJsYDRhY/s4032/IMG_5260.HEIC" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxJ8QWRTfPmwZnu9SJ46sQ2gqSXJZBTyem-16HqGw6aZqm1zVZ9V9dpT8wIKLG94Af59ptYxgEEkiGI-ltSJfCfHgkJFCwuLQBw9QAGDrA9u5HdBGEz7BVEq6MxZbriN6HfzRrTXKexY49eio9vaQGVbGCW4o6fcmwEQap9LaKjPF6PlEJ8H0fJsYDRhY/w480-h640/IMG_5260.HEIC" width="480" /></a></div><br /></div><div>We did the tour, stopping in each room to turn on the heat (they installed a wall mounted unit that does both air conditioning and heat). The house was cold. We unpacked a few things and had late supper and made the bed but the water was ice-cold.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLcGs6qaYpmIsb_fE0y-e_JUvYrlT0v0tlFSXBIhTJBj7soJ36fq0whDzIMKHxpuGS-jL1cDmZmnB2LzE4OtDWFoWVSVFyh_Afz1iAOiSOS26yQGlFL9hjlW1cOXYP2CJGVRRWLlloLrMU7eCn_qAsc9nkaVjc_wEKMsMm_MHHwVUk8aU5605UqElojc4/s4032/IMG_5266.HEIC" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLcGs6qaYpmIsb_fE0y-e_JUvYrlT0v0tlFSXBIhTJBj7soJ36fq0whDzIMKHxpuGS-jL1cDmZmnB2LzE4OtDWFoWVSVFyh_Afz1iAOiSOS26yQGlFL9hjlW1cOXYP2CJGVRRWLlloLrMU7eCn_qAsc9nkaVjc_wEKMsMm_MHHwVUk8aU5605UqElojc4/w480-h640/IMG_5266.HEIC" width="480" /></a></div><br /></div><div>I went into the "engine room" where the photovoltaic heated water is circulated into a tank. The tank temperature showed 10°C and the pump that was supposed to circulate the water was making a weird buzzing noise.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTbRgRjABTikz3mU1Yk08k_86Xr6SjSw-XIpxaY4txjHAWGgLXM9AAETF8qDk0Jg9VlDtunwqt-l8xtbCgMeWaz4AJJeYg4px1jmE8G1qmzDciNYG0_qp7rZwjH_lboP3zUuLM6njWIST4-u-42OWNBAqrTfF37onAAFsunl_xtCqMVfsa5cLNoT6Hkjk/s4032/IMG_5278.HEIC" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTbRgRjABTikz3mU1Yk08k_86Xr6SjSw-XIpxaY4txjHAWGgLXM9AAETF8qDk0Jg9VlDtunwqt-l8xtbCgMeWaz4AJJeYg4px1jmE8G1qmzDciNYG0_qp7rZwjH_lboP3zUuLM6njWIST4-u-42OWNBAqrTfF37onAAFsunl_xtCqMVfsa5cLNoT6Hkjk/w640-h480/IMG_5278.HEIC" width="640" /></a></div><br /></div><div>The previous owner did not leave detailed instructions as promised, rather a quick video walk through that said something along the lines of "these dials should both be at 3 so make sure there is enough water in the system by using these two levers". I assumed that one of the levers reduced the pressure and the other increased it but when I tried them the pressure went to 3 and once I turned it off it slowly went back down to 0.</div><div><br /></div><div>Resigning myself to fate I said to Anne lets go to bed and we can look at this again tomorrow, knowing that in addition to the poor instructions, the previous owner had also not left behind any contact information for someone that we could call to help with a service. How many days ahead with no warm water?</div><div><br /></div><div>We went to bed at about 10 which took the number of hours since sleep up to about 42 and I woke with my alarm at 6:30am (1:30am EDT) got up dutifully and went back down to the engine room to see if I could trace the pipes to get a better idea of where the water went from those two levers.</div><div><br /></div><div>I turned one of them back on and as the setting went back down to zero I heard the sound of water outside. It was an overflow pipe - which, ok, means that you don't need to release pressure as it handles that itself (maybe?).</div><div><br /></div><div>I then decided that I'd light the stove that is supposed to supplement the photovoltaic cells in the winter.</div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEianG-C1THGGUWWsNX8Q1woZyIXr21RZtXuzVR30QRZDhkc8heyN-giEXo-yyJbj9Mkgm8kprvYKH5N30e8io9FxzW1dY4r0iWvAC_SCaBpNXI7AziSTwKjxMPTsZZQctaqODAgE7uT2U2Yf4S-FY7EQStuMLGSiwN70XUEiYIvNawdflp0CYCajDhAi3Y/s4032/IMG_5269.HEIC" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEianG-C1THGGUWWsNX8Q1woZyIXr21RZtXuzVR30QRZDhkc8heyN-giEXo-yyJbj9Mkgm8kprvYKH5N30e8io9FxzW1dY4r0iWvAC_SCaBpNXI7AziSTwKjxMPTsZZQctaqODAgE7uT2U2Yf4S-FY7EQStuMLGSiwN70XUEiYIvNawdflp0CYCajDhAi3Y/w640-h480/IMG_5269.HEIC" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">AGA-type stove to supplement solar heating<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div>Of course the previous owner had not left a helpful amount of wood for us but I found some scraps under a wheel barrow and within an hour there was a fire going and the dial on the insulated hot water tank started to rise.</div><div><br /></div><div>He had said in his video that 30°C was enough for a shower but for the underfloor heating it really needs to be at least 40°C and so we kept feeding the fire after finding an expensive home improvement store that sells them by the bag. It looks like on the third night we'll be able to have a warm shower.</div><div><br /></div><div>In the meantime the gates have been bothering me and when Anne drove off today to find out what had happened to the man who was supposed to get our internet connected, the bloody gates started closing all the way and then opening all the way over and over - as if they were waving her goodbye!</div><div><br /></div><div>We also discovered that our basin leaks if you fill it up for what Anne calls a "Cowboy splash" and what I was taught in the army was some other unmentionable cleaning ritual. Luckily it doesn't leak if you just run water.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw6yxYdCNaUd99hIPTR4my3Glrf1bF_cYYILqmL4Q3SNnVwpYendpL68uyqrSf5cOeC68lGVU1xrI1wUSsMMURwPOW3elB5wW90btMSn4ktwhPk-WBPUco9ibgyPP2l7KDvHTMLBTIpk-NkuH42S3EWrEG-UCB1lih-ySVLJ9sAopqckYwpI4LN4aUtYE/s4032/IMG_5267.HEIC" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw6yxYdCNaUd99hIPTR4my3Glrf1bF_cYYILqmL4Q3SNnVwpYendpL68uyqrSf5cOeC68lGVU1xrI1wUSsMMURwPOW3elB5wW90btMSn4ktwhPk-WBPUco9ibgyPP2l7KDvHTMLBTIpk-NkuH42S3EWrEG-UCB1lih-ySVLJ9sAopqckYwpI4LN4aUtYE/w640-h480/IMG_5267.HEIC" width="640" /></a></div><br /></div><div>There are plenty of things that we know need attention but we decided after the first couple of days to take the long view on this and pick off each problem as we can.</div><div><br /></div><div>Once we have internet I'll be able to research calibrating the gate hydraulics. The hydraulic arms look too strong for the wall and the gate and show signs that they have been hammering the concrete wall posts because they try to open or close beyond where they can.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizgti8BkY8UZqHRT7c3w2BC5XY-avDnt1vxnZQpZRlhiKVhZ7uqf3Jnqq51SZGj4vJBZJDYXl3kQ2s8Tb9SDiG9ceM51fX9SBGbT3_iay4iREgNdSHzTn0qbT_C_QzW5R8_PcfXbnzFrocGmrFTVNrjSH67AvAFBkp8-DXX53RyCm-uyY5pFBzLSmWDtY/s4032/IMG_5268.HEIC" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizgti8BkY8UZqHRT7c3w2BC5XY-avDnt1vxnZQpZRlhiKVhZ7uqf3Jnqq51SZGj4vJBZJDYXl3kQ2s8Tb9SDiG9ceM51fX9SBGbT3_iay4iREgNdSHzTn0qbT_C_QzW5R8_PcfXbnzFrocGmrFTVNrjSH67AvAFBkp8-DXX53RyCm-uyY5pFBzLSmWDtY/w640-h480/IMG_5268.HEIC" width="640" /></a></div><br /></div><div>On the plus side we have pleasant neighbors who took me to a local hairdresser in the next village. Her husband delivers wood by the ton (which is about half a cord - an American unit of measure for wood) so we should have enough wood to see us through the last month of winter.</div><div><br /></div><div>The first week here was eventful. I found myself walking around a local supermarket wondering what we've got ourselves into before catching myself and pointing out that we have got ourselves into an adventure (which cheered me up no end).</div><div><br /><br /></div>Timhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12828578695145994984noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8344844421099848427.post-26039186581329298692024-02-26T04:31:00.000-08:002024-02-26T05:48:34.009-08:00Moving is hard<p>The deed for our new home was signed in our absence on Dec 8. We had the realtor do a walk-through and record a video of the condition of the house and the yard to make sure that it was not left with a lot of junk that we would have to take care of. </p><p>This was a lesson learned from our previous house - it is amazing how easily things can slip through if you don't make it a condition of the closing on the sale. We were so naive when we bought our house in Essex and the realtor so useless, that we ended up with piles of bathroom tiles and bags of rock hard grout (expired) that we had to lug down from the attic and then figure out how to dispose of.</p><p>After getting the video walk-through we sent a message to our attorney to sign on our behalf and we got confirmation that the deed was signed.</p><p>Back in Massachusetts we had a few house-sits lined up. We have a really good record with our house-sits - I suspect as with anything you get a mixed bag of people looking after your house when it is a free service in exchange for pet sitting, so it is rewarding to get a good rating and positive reviews.</p><p>We looked after houses in Salem (the witch city), Falmouth (Cape Cod), Swampscott, Gloucester, and Westborough (about 40miles west of Boston) each of which had animals with unique characters and quirks. If you pause to think about pet-sitting, the profile of a household that would prefer well reviewed and vetted strangers over other options is one where the animals probably do have some quirks.</p><p></p><p></p><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3snwiS0AnEjp0NSZ43sNfqnBtWJwX2mlonrLigEmhqLhw5FaUbg7Kf7yLJ4bAPYkcCD_9cWN2CkVwZS_9tGn4kSPCYLu8fMqV1hcRDlyXt0DKkQCfC0Mg1tBILMcZwaHAcvC0Ak9M0Pe-hBGxsKj0OTRfXr7Rx4olOXIdiTfz5MEqD3qGxWft8xqj5zE/s3449/IMG_5054.heic"><img border="0" data-original-height="2354" data-original-width="3449" height="435" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3snwiS0AnEjp0NSZ43sNfqnBtWJwX2mlonrLigEmhqLhw5FaUbg7Kf7yLJ4bAPYkcCD_9cWN2CkVwZS_9tGn4kSPCYLu8fMqV1hcRDlyXt0DKkQCfC0Mg1tBILMcZwaHAcvC0Ak9M0Pe-hBGxsKj0OTRfXr7Rx4olOXIdiTfz5MEqD3qGxWft8xqj5zE/w640-h435/IMG_5054.heic" width="640" /></a></div><br />One of the households had a pair of large dogs and we were told they would be fine if we didn't allow them on the bed but they usually slept with them. It became pretty clear on the first night that there was no way that the dogs could be put out of the room (scratching on the door) or forced to lie on a bed on the floor and so we each had a heavy dog more or less draped over us all night long. <p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAZ_1k6sbP8nmlBzUs3910yVT8z9kFJd678MMKwmalyUzhT-2op1AbB998D9IZq12OaDruLgNBJKVd_FPr7fxmRIFAS4D9ai5qIczOl9BnzdqP9OoFGph4VMS6rcQ7cGXVEcmml4dSRIr8fs5WMoxwxBUidJApIEsO6j1yK4yssPWXsVbQkxkQzIyvP8M/s4032/IMG_5038.heic" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAZ_1k6sbP8nmlBzUs3910yVT8z9kFJd678MMKwmalyUzhT-2op1AbB998D9IZq12OaDruLgNBJKVd_FPr7fxmRIFAS4D9ai5qIczOl9BnzdqP9OoFGph4VMS6rcQ7cGXVEcmml4dSRIr8fs5WMoxwxBUidJApIEsO6j1yK4yssPWXsVbQkxkQzIyvP8M/w640-h480/IMG_5038.heic" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sea view in Falmouth<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p>We figured out that we could have one of them sleep on another bed in a second room with Matthew, but the one who insisted on sleeping with us ended up draped over three quarters of the bed with us scrunched up on the edge with Anne desperately trying to avoid plummeting off the bed onto the floor!</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGHcO_aSZVDZ3oeiUAIjyGNz4anrtz6YLRPHS0lKwYkOUUH5we1M1uFtqJMTN5Q3yJ3UkbYD3I7LgHAiAwIhaHxUnXkDGPD3-fifBizVljEpTlZzdwUvE_qdFMMLlPAaJqiZpwWJzPjTQqc0-H5KYdm9PfaDZIz-1w600qhDbhOcY-8SYCYvzhT1wJ-_I/s2742/Screenshot%202024-02-25%20at%2011.37.31%E2%80%AFAM.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1832" data-original-width="2742" height="429" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGHcO_aSZVDZ3oeiUAIjyGNz4anrtz6YLRPHS0lKwYkOUUH5we1M1uFtqJMTN5Q3yJ3UkbYD3I7LgHAiAwIhaHxUnXkDGPD3-fifBizVljEpTlZzdwUvE_qdFMMLlPAaJqiZpwWJzPjTQqc0-H5KYdm9PfaDZIz-1w600qhDbhOcY-8SYCYvzhT1wJ-_I/w640-h429/Screenshot%202024-02-25%20at%2011.37.31%E2%80%AFAM.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dogs after a snowstorm<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br />At two of the homes we asked the owners if they minded us having guests to visit - in one case a dinner party and in two other cases one or both Matt and Nick stayed with us. We were able to celebrate Thanksgiving with both sons, Nick flying up from Mexico and Matt visiting from New Haven. This is a very generous act in my opinion - the owners happy to trust us and our boys in their house.<br />
<p>Sometimes you don't get to meet or socialize with the pet owners - at one house we discovered that there were other pet-sitters booked to follow immediately after us. When the owners returned, they contacted us to ask about some damage to the comforter (duvet) on the bed that we had slept in. Apparently it looked like it had been used outside on the ground and was dirty and torn. It was a pretty awkward exchange with them. The owners were in somewhat of a bind in this situation - clearly the people who came after us would have complained about the condition of the bed if we had left it in that state for them so I guess the fact that it wasn't mentioned before they returned validated us.</p><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQOWLXoRzRli2zvxryQVBuZVHSzQi5sY4J8xdHNM71pv07cTjTkAOuaps1JDL4yPeQkAElCkmUIdJ3lHF9RClyT3gmktIrmfpIJGUYlM8NmTlb8HlNgoi-f0rNRxHpEHhlsRUGFcdvXwAF7sFifV3-NFVOvWrTF9fNr9GHHB2K223wq8C95qJYCZ7U1pU/s4032/IMG_5030.heic" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQOWLXoRzRli2zvxryQVBuZVHSzQi5sY4J8xdHNM71pv07cTjTkAOuaps1JDL4yPeQkAElCkmUIdJ3lHF9RClyT3gmktIrmfpIJGUYlM8NmTlb8HlNgoi-f0rNRxHpEHhlsRUGFcdvXwAF7sFifV3-NFVOvWrTF9fNr9GHHB2K223wq8C95qJYCZ7U1pU/w300-h400/IMG_5030.heic" width="300" /></a></div><br />We met some amazing new people during this trip to New England. In 3 of the houses we met the owners before they left, having a meal with them and hearing their stories. <p>There was a family where the mother had taken the 3 sons to Spain for 3 months - walking the Camino Santiago for part of it and writing journals about their experiences. The children are all at university now but their trip was still a vivid memory for them 3 years later. </p><p>Then a couple with a beautiful large dog who are involved in projects that have been influential in shaping legislation for the climate in the USA who offered to have us stay with them if we ran out of places to stay (when they learned that we are moving from one house-sit to another).</p><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1cM1v8n7GQH3A2E0o7fI7k6Gggl0eyHjupDXayL9QsDaW7br1Cuf1mR-3JIjzREwsDClExUt74Zre3Y2pEChP8QTs9CP6tlja1Duv63E3gB7x9w2B3MnBlgnhaNT8NiE4uhi0Yvuxr7TYMzmagdVvA6s88n057Mdr6Tm_u858U_F5CU5DoJMUzkxMWFg/s4898/_TJB3029.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3265" data-original-width="4898" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1cM1v8n7GQH3A2E0o7fI7k6Gggl0eyHjupDXayL9QsDaW7br1Cuf1mR-3JIjzREwsDClExUt74Zre3Y2pEChP8QTs9CP6tlja1Duv63E3gB7x9w2B3MnBlgnhaNT8NiE4uhi0Yvuxr7TYMzmagdVvA6s88n057Mdr6Tm_u858U_F5CU5DoJMUzkxMWFg/w640-h426/_TJB3029.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>And finally a woman with a really timid little cat who encouraged us to swing from the rafters if we wanted to while she went on a fantastic adventure vacation where she mushed a team of dogs for 7 days. In her case, she is still friends with a couple in England who were her first house-sitters 10 years ago! We are sure that we will hear from her again having invited her to keep in touch for when she visits Europe again sometime.</p><p>We also spent time visiting with friends. One of our friends stepped in to do some last minute coordinating to help us get a few things that couldn't fit into our shipment to Portugal sent off as donations. In America you can't give away used furniture - most frequently you have to pay people to take them away.<br /></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRdFM3wYoNnno0rQMdVxva64iy3c0Tr9NzA2AU3AhkvrvfQmJ7ELtcKqJu1z8UZ7Tyb_X76Yo5MKXXLmvskONQjBK2JXG-MJYJFMD2S9WjuNLVn9HJR5Uo4hLLCjm5akP17yRrigZGCcJy5WwNeQPjzXRZNZDLSoCGri7HnFt3e41bHeWfnPTFVj9LVYs/s3823/IMG_5198.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2637" data-original-width="3823" height="442" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRdFM3wYoNnno0rQMdVxva64iy3c0Tr9NzA2AU3AhkvrvfQmJ7ELtcKqJu1z8UZ7Tyb_X76Yo5MKXXLmvskONQjBK2JXG-MJYJFMD2S9WjuNLVn9HJR5Uo4hLLCjm5akP17yRrigZGCcJy5WwNeQPjzXRZNZDLSoCGri7HnFt3e41bHeWfnPTFVj9LVYs/w640-h442/IMG_5198.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>We were also invited (again) to stay at the homes of friends we have known since we came to New England in 2001. We are of course aware always that we are in their space and no matter how much they love us there is a limit to how long before they start to feel less comfortable with us being there. <p></p><p>My grandmother once told me that friends and family visiting are like fish - they go off after 3 days! We stretched that to a couple of stays of a week at a time and it was always at their objection that we moved on somewhere. But these are delicate alliances, you know that you are loved and welcome but you also know that you are just a little bit in the way.<br /></p><p></p><p>That said. We are really tired of moving every week or two into some new accommodation where we have to adjust to a new set (or lack) of cooking utensils and appliances. Anne calculated that we have stayed at 41 places all told counting some repeat stops at friends' houses in the last 16 months.</p><p style="text-align: left;">We yearn to start building our new home - the house sitting empty, waiting for us to get there with the front yard calling for us to build a garden.<br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjLvMFTnlzBouJ66zrUuxsYIlgeLSmFz4hwad6d0nYeNRTC4HfAlr5H2PtNccDCZl92tU1_byVUoxToUpRavirjlZgpSRiHU0tCiAMiDSsFnfheyEVzenQ68VL4yrBo-QOLH6TcEGyPRPQpV6zZscYm87vYyFESQK7CcAbyq1JdNuu5IaPirSrbRcTIl8/s2466/26Frontyard.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1582" data-original-width="2466" height="410" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjLvMFTnlzBouJ66zrUuxsYIlgeLSmFz4hwad6d0nYeNRTC4HfAlr5H2PtNccDCZl92tU1_byVUoxToUpRavirjlZgpSRiHU0tCiAMiDSsFnfheyEVzenQ68VL4yrBo-QOLH6TcEGyPRPQpV6zZscYm87vYyFESQK7CcAbyq1JdNuu5IaPirSrbRcTIl8/w640-h410/26Frontyard.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our empty house<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p style="text-align: left;">The current step in the process is that we are waiting for Anne's temporary residence visa which will be issued by the consulate in Boston. She visited them last week with a few questions - in particular whether there is any way of knowing how long it might be before they will issue it. They assured her that it had been approved by them but was now at the government department in Portugal that adjudicates residence applications. Unfortunately they have been stalled for now because of a massive backlog and because of changes that were made last year in their department and so there is no telling how long it might be. It may be weeks but could also be months.</p><p style="text-align: left;">So we have decided to return to Portugal on our tourist visas so that we can start getting our house in order. The shipping company collected our worldly goods a couple of weeks ago and they are waiting to put them onto a ship for us. We expect them to take 3 months to get them to us.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx9u5Wiziq4hJGcCjv3fZ0oHFJZTL6RXubNx4Q1UJr6JhnVWp05guaiJlnas-Y1K-t-IGh6iyXlXsuZUKmxcuMs6uZ11E1NkXUZzWiCZfBCwW1YaRqMKOtIB9rFX4_tUbExG6CnyiUwcuhAxtY2KtJXOPSxyGy5yExexhdu06gb-Cxq9FywhkPk3hMamY/s1024/aa492cff-6508-4a08-8713-91fa858c06fd.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx9u5Wiziq4hJGcCjv3fZ0oHFJZTL6RXubNx4Q1UJr6JhnVWp05guaiJlnas-Y1K-t-IGh6iyXlXsuZUKmxcuMs6uZ11E1NkXUZzWiCZfBCwW1YaRqMKOtIB9rFX4_tUbExG6CnyiUwcuhAxtY2KtJXOPSxyGy5yExexhdu06gb-Cxq9FywhkPk3hMamY/w640-h480/aa492cff-6508-4a08-8713-91fa858c06fd.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p style="text-align: left;"></p><p>Why on earth are we doing this to ourselves again?</p><p>Moving to the USA was tough. We had few resources and knew only one family, who were friends from South Africa, and a very generous friend I had reconnected with who I met in my first year at university. He lived in Baltimore and offered to sell me his car for very little. I remember driving back from Baltimore to Massachusetts along the New Jersey Turnpike in a vicious winter storm belting out the Simon and Garfunkel song "America" because of the reference to the highway.<br /></p><p>We also basically took our "family home" away from our children.</p><p></p><p style="text-align: left;">Even though the culture felt pretty familiar - we'd watched enough American TV and movies to recognize the run of the mill, we had no idea how to navigate health care and the bureaucracy of the Registry of Motor Vehicles, Social Security admin and, of course the whole visa thing.</p><p style="text-align: left;">A big advantage was the language - we could at least understand and be understood. We came to realize that in some cases our accents sounded like we thought we were "better-than-you" and ended up being treated differently in some places while in other places we got credited for being smarter than we might have with a different accent.</p><p style="text-align: left;">So here we are - having sold the "family home" again - heading to a place with a reputation for a tough bureaucracy and a massive language barrier and a culture where we will continue to be aliens - although from what we've seen they are a lot more accepting of foreigners. </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJwk-ZgDHozEYl0iq9PzpZJ6KDtNyIqbGjD-DJj5jlUJ2NvcN_bUg9Ds_AxjOnIPHP3KHCWWfDVlHdmgalMhTcgLyXk4ykEcr7fpvq78tJwB6QOpDNvEq2xbPHuKDbCmi7fZLe8GL_CBcW_BJ_DC7kBwekcaX5uxDP_Yoh8VmAE87viwREULexr78HgGc/s4032/IMG_5240.heic" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJwk-ZgDHozEYl0iq9PzpZJ6KDtNyIqbGjD-DJj5jlUJ2NvcN_bUg9Ds_AxjOnIPHP3KHCWWfDVlHdmgalMhTcgLyXk4ykEcr7fpvq78tJwB6QOpDNvEq2xbPHuKDbCmi7fZLe8GL_CBcW_BJ_DC7kBwekcaX5uxDP_Yoh8VmAE87viwREULexr78HgGc/w640-h480/IMG_5240.heic" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shaolin Liu theater in Rockport - a favorite theater<br /></td></tr></tbody></table>We are totally down for this, but we know that we are giving up a lot - connections we have made over 20 years here.<p style="text-align: left;">We do have valued friends in South Africa who still keep in touch with us, but we discovered that it is hard for most people to maintain friendships over this distance. We are out of sight and our struggles are not the same as theirs any more. </p><p style="text-align: left;">I suspect the same might be true with friends that we have made in the USA, we might lose that connection with them as well. A move like this comes with the cost of losing big chunks of a community.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1UvgphcMcKE2QNvO_LQHaqbVaIW7wkgaV-K9uGdDsVIkKgKw2VyXwdg_rjTAcPMKv_T47tNxPnVP3CIwbUJk96H3PPqdBuK8OsJsnNmC6-F6Zn6uuRoX5f7FFgFSrabq0G9hbST06uHHCVaYKnCG3oeIezhzCOBuzLemwlezJB9iflJBBFYt7NecQXtU/s3681/IMG_5241.heic" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2631" data-original-width="3681" height="458" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1UvgphcMcKE2QNvO_LQHaqbVaIW7wkgaV-K9uGdDsVIkKgKw2VyXwdg_rjTAcPMKv_T47tNxPnVP3CIwbUJk96H3PPqdBuK8OsJsnNmC6-F6Zn6uuRoX5f7FFgFSrabq0G9hbST06uHHCVaYKnCG3oeIezhzCOBuzLemwlezJB9iflJBBFYt7NecQXtU/w640-h458/IMG_5241.heic" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View over Rockport near our last AirBnb in the USA<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p style="text-align: left;">But we are going to be embarking on a late-life study of a new language, which is exciting. After learning Spanish for a few years, Portuguese is proving quite difficult but once we are immersed, we expect it will be another way of keeping our minds sharp and learning new things about a different culture.</p><p style="text-align: left;">So all in all, as big a change as it will be, we decided not to let it intimidate us, but rather see it as another new adventure.<br /></p><p style="text-align: left;"><br /></p><p></p><p></p>Timhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12828578695145994984noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8344844421099848427.post-41111526875317073092023-12-01T19:39:00.000-08:002023-12-03T16:36:25.260-08:00Swampscott, New England and almost 40 years<p>We are back in the USA for a few months having paid the deposit on a house and waiting for the final signing of the deed next week. Next year we will be using the house as a "holiday home" and primary residence while we work through the bureaucracy of getting residence permits for both of us to stay for longer than the currently mandated maximum of 90 days for every 180.</p><p>Today is an anniversary of how long my fellow traveler and I have been traveling together. Anne and I <br />met when I was working my first job at Nombulelo secondary school, she joined us a few weeks into the year and immediately caught my attention with her infectious laugh and distinctive way of dressing. At the time it reminded me of students at my Alma Mata (UCT) but her style of dress is distinctively her own I later realized.</p><p>This was 39 years ago. I moved in with Anne and her two little girls in December 1984</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6mRR3sEOU3XJiqZizfd9ry_rVE1Tvn5qnrpK7CMgPoPLzT71tj_I2ysXK9ld3KyQP66uLP82zDQa3kJXK1_HeYgAUnfBhleJVsvxTfFlF1TV8VW1nNHM3IM8e5eo1rcj-3F4dQidJkGVaHtkGMNTHRl-lD2bHytOi3roQF_E8Ho-lLbecCq_D9qRCYaE/s2890/Screenshot%202023-12-01%20at%201.48.00%E2%80%AFPM.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1920" data-original-width="2890" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6mRR3sEOU3XJiqZizfd9ry_rVE1Tvn5qnrpK7CMgPoPLzT71tj_I2ysXK9ld3KyQP66uLP82zDQa3kJXK1_HeYgAUnfBhleJVsvxTfFlF1TV8VW1nNHM3IM8e5eo1rcj-3F4dQidJkGVaHtkGMNTHRl-lD2bHytOi3roQF_E8Ho-lLbecCq_D9qRCYaE/w640-h426/Screenshot%202023-12-01%20at%201.48.00%E2%80%AFPM.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p> and we haven't spend more than a few weeks apart since then - the apart time being mandated by travel for work and my exploratory trip to England and the USA when we decided in 1999 that we wanted to find somewhere else to live.</p><p>We were married officially a few years after I moved in to live with her. Two witnesses (colleagues at our school) and our little girls who were pulled without notice from school to come to the ceremony at the local magistrate's court with us. Afterwards we stood under a tree across the road for a wedding photograph.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghO7ZDHxKU7pSo35OjaEH2FegE1irOWu-QYzwUbfYtX5HbhyphenhyphenJBGkfXKzDtpbWTTIy-g_RcjVEsrOtGp9RTmH53Ue0pplp1kt9sigV-tsWv6hnoFrXmOILzIgGyloK_jcep0Ie6K3TnfnfN1zXHazWLCm7xeLid4nbfprH8O4Qa4iajqgOa1icrc6XvF40/s826/Screenshot%202023-12-01%20at%201.44.14%E2%80%AFPM.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="826" data-original-width="556" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghO7ZDHxKU7pSo35OjaEH2FegE1irOWu-QYzwUbfYtX5HbhyphenhyphenJBGkfXKzDtpbWTTIy-g_RcjVEsrOtGp9RTmH53Ue0pplp1kt9sigV-tsWv6hnoFrXmOILzIgGyloK_jcep0Ie6K3TnfnfN1zXHazWLCm7xeLid4nbfprH8O4Qa4iajqgOa1icrc6XvF40/w430-h640/Screenshot%202023-12-01%20at%201.44.14%E2%80%AFPM.jpg" width="430" /></a><br /></div> A few years later we welcomed our twins into the family and watched them grow. In 2001 we moved from South Africa<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibL50lCN0Jj7KWQRZEu_Zu5I-JJsPHLAAFLAYl2-gHIKtZ91OrdmF3LEUA_a1n0wUQ7_ETqLpJ44vROPON1M2Czh2iGnR9i3vEX66mT-3Y2Gt3hiUq8ObiPG7xKV2BW9FIHH1DUGxLiffwRtPYdX3iCJYlyaK7208W59qQKqB0PBZhHlN9jsii_GTbeAo/s828/Screenshot%202023-12-01%20at%201.55.32%E2%80%AFPM.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="828" data-original-width="560" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibL50lCN0Jj7KWQRZEu_Zu5I-JJsPHLAAFLAYl2-gHIKtZ91OrdmF3LEUA_a1n0wUQ7_ETqLpJ44vROPON1M2Czh2iGnR9i3vEX66mT-3Y2Gt3hiUq8ObiPG7xKV2BW9FIHH1DUGxLiffwRtPYdX3iCJYlyaK7208W59qQKqB0PBZhHlN9jsii_GTbeAo/w432-h640/Screenshot%202023-12-01%20at%201.55.32%E2%80%AFPM.jpg" width="432" /></a></div><br />leaving our oldest daughter living with her boyfriend and taking the three younger children to Boston where I had found work.<p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh2Dwj3lvSfZBsL_rIfWAQfGgftrNwtlWgsfh5WXIZFpSZEavNdL2B2uvzSxVuRISqTXxaxvBcKkfXSG8mnx8IMNViLV_4jZIlYrJFJYi8pNfS7EjaVodgecAy3V6BTD5oC6tF33eR59Cve2cCRp_ZGUW41bxYAEw6LOhSnYAjOl87is0vJda0sgf3ijI/s2476/Screenshot%202023-12-01%20at%202.00.21%E2%80%AFPM.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1864" data-original-width="2476" height="482" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh2Dwj3lvSfZBsL_rIfWAQfGgftrNwtlWgsfh5WXIZFpSZEavNdL2B2uvzSxVuRISqTXxaxvBcKkfXSG8mnx8IMNViLV_4jZIlYrJFJYi8pNfS7EjaVodgecAy3V6BTD5oC6tF33eR59Cve2cCRp_ZGUW41bxYAEw6LOhSnYAjOl87is0vJda0sgf3ijI/w640-h482/Screenshot%202023-12-01%20at%202.00.21%E2%80%AFPM.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>It has been 22 years since we made that first move. Anne insisted on joining me in Boston as soon as I had found a house to rent rather than wait the few months I suggested I might need to get things properly squared away for them. We all slept on blow-up mattresses as we stocked the house with furniture and learned how to dress for the frigid winter weather.<p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgciYC4Yd56TfcM3NxyK7r-DMJQN-yJPij_9FjrqjTdjbuDPvp4MYcE4Y1aKWPnYL5B2nSwsi7IWb4y5Nvg2ABLv4eZC9TZ9WJfwQXBglrOnqVu38nlx-92-aQLtzPgh_JF2p8sGIX2ov9Q7Ni6yg-U6NNQnBDGS8HT15oX2oXu2aI6Ps1idnYN1hsG6DU/s2542/Screenshot%202023-12-01%20at%202.23.13%E2%80%AFPM.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1798" data-original-width="2542" height="452" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgciYC4Yd56TfcM3NxyK7r-DMJQN-yJPij_9FjrqjTdjbuDPvp4MYcE4Y1aKWPnYL5B2nSwsi7IWb4y5Nvg2ABLv4eZC9TZ9WJfwQXBglrOnqVu38nlx-92-aQLtzPgh_JF2p8sGIX2ov9Q7Ni6yg-U6NNQnBDGS8HT15oX2oXu2aI6Ps1idnYN1hsG6DU/w640-h452/Screenshot%202023-12-01%20at%202.23.13%E2%80%AFPM.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p>The last year has been full of travel. Anne and I have been constant companions, barely spending hours apart, let alone weeks or months. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisZittWnHImKDzrXFrH1P-QbbRbQl8wR3h9depSNb1Oc5wTrkxIy-m8dLoP93T4nMflewl9pVOFdpUtwuXu75yPuvri-ygXn73hzPq5DusIsfLqXc_vp1dOytM-STy-fheRjCWdKaw-0xQtU8RCw9j6qrljs01MYfpyyslTO5pGacaX2-NZPPU4LiNIaM/s2202/Screenshot%202023-12-01%20at%202.25.34%E2%80%AFPM.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1840" data-original-width="2202" height="534" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisZittWnHImKDzrXFrH1P-QbbRbQl8wR3h9depSNb1Oc5wTrkxIy-m8dLoP93T4nMflewl9pVOFdpUtwuXu75yPuvri-ygXn73hzPq5DusIsfLqXc_vp1dOytM-STy-fheRjCWdKaw-0xQtU8RCw9j6qrljs01MYfpyyslTO5pGacaX2-NZPPU4LiNIaM/w640-h534/Screenshot%202023-12-01%20at%202.25.34%E2%80%AFPM.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /> She is a good partner to have on a trip - the long one we have decided to take through life, these trips into destinations unknown and the short trips we have done with almost (probably more than) 40 beds and AirBnbs. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMsR-VuQ5vpkcyPpd5ayojrRoOWGUZeZT6Pi8NybY6qS0Cg27R05pqX5W-PIEzsb-EvLC2cfMr_-DxDNQvr9SbnTEOAKJ0ORnxzmU8VakAdm14kGEtbqgBN3vvH44i-ZlcrLRsWLhSvjfojiLghckjxXF9qdFwq4-DN_sXR7vGRzg0IxL7oW9Pz0wAP1I/s1702/Screenshot%202023-12-01%20at%202.28.39%E2%80%AFPM.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1232" data-original-width="1702" height="464" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMsR-VuQ5vpkcyPpd5ayojrRoOWGUZeZT6Pi8NybY6qS0Cg27R05pqX5W-PIEzsb-EvLC2cfMr_-DxDNQvr9SbnTEOAKJ0ORnxzmU8VakAdm14kGEtbqgBN3vvH44i-ZlcrLRsWLhSvjfojiLghckjxXF9qdFwq4-DN_sXR7vGRzg0IxL7oW9Pz0wAP1I/w640-h464/Screenshot%202023-12-01%20at%202.28.39%E2%80%AFPM.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p>And now 22 years later we are contemplating another big move to Portugal where most things will be strange and where we have the interesting task of learning another language while navigating the culture and lifestyle.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj3bIYtTh1sjTjuCQeWwTTwRPTE3zW9hUgHdtubG4ChTkm6SJdijenHM9ClBTxSrCyH6-sHWiBYKj4e0fYZWNlXYcsgcBIdH4vLiAsy-6cJVPpb570kQoVM6IC8c4wn3YESABxXTsQLYTpqF_zamUfmkwdfnonVNYrV215O686VjBkGi4Z84pKyrlu2iM/s2740/Screenshot%202023-12-01%20at%202.37.32%E2%80%AFPM.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1820" data-original-width="2740" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj3bIYtTh1sjTjuCQeWwTTwRPTE3zW9hUgHdtubG4ChTkm6SJdijenHM9ClBTxSrCyH6-sHWiBYKj4e0fYZWNlXYcsgcBIdH4vLiAsy-6cJVPpb570kQoVM6IC8c4wn3YESABxXTsQLYTpqF_zamUfmkwdfnonVNYrV215O686VjBkGi4Z84pKyrlu2iM/w640-h426/Screenshot%202023-12-01%20at%202.37.32%E2%80%AFPM.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p>Anne will get a residence permit first while I travel again on a tourist visa. I'll be able to apply for a residence permit once Anne's is granted.</p><p><br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNfYjQq46f4gqIVnoZzzgvXx9poUJUsOnCFrsChrrgMRFGY2UgHK1SImhT_uXvdQPAG8_HT0cCzMXdNPs9eusdC6gYVe-s9p2_Bj6MEij3dJKN2sXdrZdoxOOB-3YX379x7hNutPfBnyPANMBt_dCRihZrC4h4MRmmlW0A13uQBxbxGTAFAf-ga4bdfSI/s2074/Screenshot%202023-12-01%20at%202.30.49%E2%80%AFPM.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1308" data-original-width="2074" height="404" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNfYjQq46f4gqIVnoZzzgvXx9poUJUsOnCFrsChrrgMRFGY2UgHK1SImhT_uXvdQPAG8_HT0cCzMXdNPs9eusdC6gYVe-s9p2_Bj6MEij3dJKN2sXdrZdoxOOB-3YX379x7hNutPfBnyPANMBt_dCRihZrC4h4MRmmlW0A13uQBxbxGTAFAf-ga4bdfSI/w640-h404/Screenshot%202023-12-01%20at%202.30.49%E2%80%AFPM.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our new house<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /> Happy Anniversary to "minha linda esposa".<br /><p></p>Timhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12828578695145994984noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8344844421099848427.post-8736653512915332672023-11-08T09:38:00.001-08:002023-11-09T06:36:07.576-08:00Portugal: Full circle in the Algarve<p>We returned to Lagos only to discover that Nazaré experienced some massive waves on the weekend immediately after we left. I guess it might be necessary to block off some time to make the trip up there next fall when we know there are big swells coming.</p><p>I spent the week after we returned watching the "100 ft wave" series on TV during breaks before and after work. The series does a good job of capturing the personalities of the regulars at these events and how their journeys evolved from the early days of experimentation with the huge waves there, up to last year.</p><p>Back in Lagos we had some business to attend to. We have to open a bank account which involves a few steps that we had prepared for based on several Facebook groups for expats moving to Portugal. The steps are probably quite a bit more intense for non-EU residents but it was interesting to participate in the generating of many pages of documents that we had to sign. We also had to produce utility/account statements that prove our residence in the USA. Fortunately we still have some utilities that send us bills that we could use for this.</p><p>In Portugal (and maybe all of the EU) banks make no bones about making money off you. In the USA bank accounts charge minimum or no fees for the account itself - making money from having your money rather than making you pay for the privilege. In Portugal you pay around 5-7 Euros every month for the account with extra fees if you want a credit card or a second debit card.</p><p>We will have to make provision to transfer money into this account regularly because this will be used to pay for the utilities for the house once we have the deed.</p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1CQU_8vlDEgILty9dFkA70zWq7S9tAZBX0ZbJHNavvxWkVsiNz_ouZlBRWMridmb69WwP1Re5bQu6vAZNPoX6N-kxyNcsutj8cP_Na2CHRLdmofB6EytVWdGFtmypBHH39-dY6sxPSMdGajoqzWx_xROfb3-nxIcyz-cIO0Q0FKp3WiZEExPj_mtAjJI/s2418/Screenshot%202023-11-06%20at%207.21.35%E2%80%AFAM.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1306" data-original-width="2418" height="346" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1CQU_8vlDEgILty9dFkA70zWq7S9tAZBX0ZbJHNavvxWkVsiNz_ouZlBRWMridmb69WwP1Re5bQu6vAZNPoX6N-kxyNcsutj8cP_Na2CHRLdmofB6EytVWdGFtmypBHH39-dY6sxPSMdGajoqzWx_xROfb3-nxIcyz-cIO0Q0FKp3WiZEExPj_mtAjJI/w640-h346/Screenshot%202023-11-06%20at%207.21.35%E2%80%AFAM.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr></tbody></table>In the map above, the heart shows the location of our new house. It is in a small hamlet between <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silves,_Portugal">Silves</a> and a town called São Bartholomeu de Messines, almost exactly half-way between Faro and the west coast and a few minutes drive from the main rail-line between Lisbon and Faro. The closest beach is a 30min drive on backroads directly south in Albufeira. Silves (pronounced Seelvsh - and rhymes with "peel") is 15min drive away.<p></p><p style="text-align: left;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTrcRBLVS07hmwSjzzzbwVulEmW2a7sm9gHNEvvq3EtFtHKSX40m6gNa8qNN6l6UhDu8LX5ERAxp_Km-_faY_ZFVLxsa0_k_p485JrbOEaCxxlPSlsYyMtIyPtfWYAEkW29OvCoHkofETTH3EYCfDYyGBfMFmdbo7IANQ2bQ-0PTqX6_aSJ0NhdggeQkk/s2402/Screenshot%202023-11-07%20at%206.01.12%E2%80%AFPM.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="1432" data-original-width="2402" height="382" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTrcRBLVS07hmwSjzzzbwVulEmW2a7sm9gHNEvvq3EtFtHKSX40m6gNa8qNN6l6UhDu8LX5ERAxp_Km-_faY_ZFVLxsa0_k_p485JrbOEaCxxlPSlsYyMtIyPtfWYAEkW29OvCoHkofETTH3EYCfDYyGBfMFmdbo7IANQ2bQ-0PTqX6_aSJ0NhdggeQkk/w640-h382/Screenshot%202023-11-07%20at%206.01.12%E2%80%AFPM.jpg" width="640" /></a></div> The process to buy the house is moving along - we have paid the deposit and the promissory note has been signed which puts both parties into a contract whereby we'll have to pay a considerable penalty if either of us renege on the deal. We would lose our deposit or the seller would have to pay us double the deposit depending on who pulls out of the contract. The actual signing of the deed (closing) will be left to a lawyer who will wait for an inspection by the realtor of the property (with photo and video sent to us for review) and she will keep the keys for us for when we return.<p></p><p>During the wait for the promissory to be signed I reached out to our attorney to find out what the proper address was for our new home. We had become aware of a problem with mail and deliveries in Portugal because there are often houses and streets that are not named and google maps is not reliable. In some cases the numbering convention for the street has changed in the last couple of years from one format to another and so you might end up at a location that has a wildly different street number from what you entered in the search.</p><p>So you can imagine my confusion when I entered our new address and google maps confidently highlighted a different location than the one we had visited and was listed on the realtor's web site.</p><p>After an email exchange with our attorney we understood that the postal code/address we had been given corresponded to the whole hamlet which has a collection of post boxes at the main intersection in its middle.</p><p>The house that google reported belonged to the postal code has a custom listing in google maps - probably put there by the current owner, and which includes a phone number. My guess is that they rent it out to visitors every now and again and wanted to help them with directions.</p><p>So I phoned the number. </p><p>Their names were pretty clearly English and after introducing myself, we had a brief and friendly conversation. I asked him what the probability was that we were buying their house instead of the one listed by the realtor which got us both laughing about street addresses and maps. After we'd chatted a bit about the new house, which he knows well, he said: "So you have a South African accent?" and I said, "Yes and you sound like you are from England?" which brought back an immediate: "No man, Durban!" I suppose the Natal accent is the closest to what they call received pronunciation in South Africa but I was a little disappointed that I didn't pick it up right away. He immediately invited us to stop by anytime we like to say "hi" and we'll be doing that when we move in properly.<br /></p>It is not unusual to come across South Africans here. He has lived here since 1986 which was long before we even imagined we might go off as travelers to distant countries for work and then for retirement. If you search for the Algarve on YouTube you will come across a South African (Nick Robinson) who has lived here for a couple of decades and fills his episodes by describing places and processes related to moving and living in the Algarve. His channel is called <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DuSaWNO1sMg">Algarve Addicts</a>.<br /><p>So our next hurdle is to get a visa for residence which we will have to apply for as soon as we get back to Boston next week. Anne will apply for the non-lucrative retirement visa and once she has it we will start working on a reunification visa for me to join her. We might have to juggle with how much time we spend in Portugal. Once Anne has her residential visa she has to spend a few days more than six months in Portugal every year. Until I have a residence visa I can't spend more than 90 days in every six month period. There is a chance that my visa will be processed before this presents a problem for us.<br /></p><p>So after a total of 6 months in Portugal we returned to some of the scenery near Lagos on a walk to Ponta da Piedade - a headland with amazing rock formations formed by the relatively soft sandstone being eroded by waves and collapsed walls.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimr83raH5O3r5zSphTMQf2OG-Ac_x1agGFjxkegi39pQWY1LilOW9jVGttWBo9GtOka4xgWMRgVkcGd9LBrHBnwgmjAo-cQv82JqvrT-r2V_MnWv91vzIMyJSnw0zS6STNnatVzs35krYDUz9DqlSv6Or_uZWxEIGUNnUsprUy-zoGIOZi8U2Ek3IfTwc/s4000/_TJB2977.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2667" data-original-width="4000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimr83raH5O3r5zSphTMQf2OG-Ac_x1agGFjxkegi39pQWY1LilOW9jVGttWBo9GtOka4xgWMRgVkcGd9LBrHBnwgmjAo-cQv82JqvrT-r2V_MnWv91vzIMyJSnw0zS6STNnatVzs35krYDUz9DqlSv6Or_uZWxEIGUNnUsprUy-zoGIOZi8U2Ek3IfTwc/w640-h426/_TJB2977.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p>Since our first visit in April 2022 there have been additional wooden boardwalks constructed to try to discourage walking on footpaths really close to the potentially treacherous cliff edges.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjPSZNPtOVD8J_WzdW2YjZWBsvIvEllJ7JkwgBva-VqoUpUbvBEypj6SHaSO8Ey_n0-dkA0Qdrpti7Q5qwODipezqNiseeVxfSScMmzX90jvxofpp3HinxiFcVtGb3x6_6pjFU69J_FOHefodJzfRlFk3FaNlMKludORFJlYxF4-OBLydm3ScwDNtbKVM/s4000/_TJB2970_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2659" data-original-width="4000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjPSZNPtOVD8J_WzdW2YjZWBsvIvEllJ7JkwgBva-VqoUpUbvBEypj6SHaSO8Ey_n0-dkA0Qdrpti7Q5qwODipezqNiseeVxfSScMmzX90jvxofpp3HinxiFcVtGb3x6_6pjFU69J_FOHefodJzfRlFk3FaNlMKludORFJlYxF4-OBLydm3ScwDNtbKVM/w640-h426/_TJB2970_HDR.jpg" width="640" /></a></div> <p></p><p>There are a few locations along the coast near Lagos between Albufeira and Luz where tour companies bring tourists in boats and on kayaks to explore the inlets and caves in the cliffs.</p><p> <br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9UHfof2lNQKc-vBr6s2zqpOx6mbTQcuimD1v4NJ4SmXxdJRSHmih1OqlXCP5JXf2oSge9twwRQPEqeSz7vXOTaccYBBCfjPBpKO2_bHGMMG0cCQnt78BkezJKiVjEl8_pIitZ4CKhDccDkZ7OpdrB5ejX4tri6Mv9qlENL1hC7b4xj0-2GRxGmcguD8Y/s4000/_TJB2988_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2662" data-original-width="4000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9UHfof2lNQKc-vBr6s2zqpOx6mbTQcuimD1v4NJ4SmXxdJRSHmih1OqlXCP5JXf2oSge9twwRQPEqeSz7vXOTaccYBBCfjPBpKO2_bHGMMG0cCQnt78BkezJKiVjEl8_pIitZ4CKhDccDkZ7OpdrB5ejX4tri6Mv9qlENL1hC7b4xj0-2GRxGmcguD8Y/w640-h426/_TJB2988_HDR.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p>A nice scenic end to our second long stay in Portugal and completing a loop in the Algarve with another series of photographs of those impressive cliffs.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjy0iUFs6b_7ighb19mtPa6nh8Ukvf71QU9lVGlezZmUpkUiVO1903Sif6VRP6KUTexG8_r7Ql6f4TCK9h3fTRee3Gt807ViNIGXCkCM8asU3ILgCkqu9cA6L51yazVAIlv0Ww-6qRrY8jNLcjRU47mEyhvgjBWornpdCFp05u_kicfXXTgjoXetS1kNzs/s4000/_TJB2946_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2664" data-original-width="4000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjy0iUFs6b_7ighb19mtPa6nh8Ukvf71QU9lVGlezZmUpkUiVO1903Sif6VRP6KUTexG8_r7Ql6f4TCK9h3fTRee3Gt807ViNIGXCkCM8asU3ILgCkqu9cA6L51yazVAIlv0Ww-6qRrY8jNLcjRU47mEyhvgjBWornpdCFp05u_kicfXXTgjoXetS1kNzs/w640-h426/_TJB2946_HDR.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /> <p></p><br /><br />Timhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12828578695145994984noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8344844421099848427.post-53271205931293252492023-10-30T09:16:00.004-07:002023-10-30T09:18:38.274-07:00Portugal: Nasaré, waves, dogs and cats<p>When Anne joined Trusted House-sitters it seemed like a good way to justify our accommodation by looking after a house and animals for people who otherwise wouldn't be able to travel.</p><p>Some people kennel their animals, others have a neighbor take their pet or stop by to feed and let their animal out. Some find someone who they can trust to house sit and give their animals a great deal more attention than a kennel or neighbor might.</p><p>The downsides of this option is that our stays are not usually long - maybe a week or 10 days at the most, aren't all in the same area and you really can't string them together to cover a whole long period. For example in this trip we had to travel 3 and then 4 hours away from where we were based to do two house-sits in-between AirBnb rentals and a generous offer by my cousin to stay at their house while they are <a href="https://amaoe2023.travel.blog/">off adventuring with a friend in North Africa</a>.</p><p>In each case these were in places we wanted to visit anyway so for the price of petrol we had accommodation and an opportunity to care for furry things.<br /></p><p>You have to be a little careful when you volunteer to house-sit because some pets are extremely high maintenance and you need to be aware of the warning signs if you want to avoid really difficult sits. Anne has this down to a fine art, making sure we limit applying to sits with large numbers of animals and looking for signs that their animal care routines are within tolerable limits. For example a dog that barks at other dogs on walks is tolerable, but dogs that have to be kept separated in their house and walked separately might be a red flag for a relaxed house-sit. </p><p>Our experiences have ranged from people who happily skip phone screening before accepting our offer to sit (or skip meeting us at their homes before leaving for vacation), to people who carefully vet us, interview us and take an hour or so to show us the routine with their animals. Any of these approaches are fine, of course, and I suspect if we were looking for someone to care for an animal of ours we'd be on the more careful than carefree side of screening before we left them to house-sit.<br /></p><p>On the whole our experience with house-sitting has been really good. We have sat pets in Spain, New England, Cornwall and Portugal since we started traveling and have really enjoyed it. In total over the last year we have done around 6 or 7 of these sits and they have almost all been great.<br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiFkDi_5VK1K1S7M1ZVFipgTiKZ4mHygdtBUWWgiFKom2iYiqKZztL3z6gSZAL_K7Zk84J7WxCQEpIVISCym-D_nUM1ire_ac1-zhU-Qx1JcUpckq-6tDftD940MifXcr16Y_DisGdSC5PrBfr3I4AsLKck93S70JxKTIMK0aadmG6YGf-1NSbijT2Cs0/s4000/_TJB1990.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2667" data-original-width="4000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiFkDi_5VK1K1S7M1ZVFipgTiKZ4mHygdtBUWWgiFKom2iYiqKZztL3z6gSZAL_K7Zk84J7WxCQEpIVISCym-D_nUM1ire_ac1-zhU-Qx1JcUpckq-6tDftD940MifXcr16Y_DisGdSC5PrBfr3I4AsLKck93S70JxKTIMK0aadmG6YGf-1NSbijT2Cs0/w640-h426/_TJB1990.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sculpture depicting a legend involving a deer's fall over the cliff and the newer tradition of surfing <br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p>Our house-sit for this week is in the town of Nazaré about 75mi (122km) north of Lisbon (90min by car). It took us
close to 4 hrs to drive there from Lagos in the Algarve. </p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh989snKwMguCV066f_GW3eumV_zM2yboJVcZSztO9OPcbrtTs4HpdHJFkWHR_32L200eEFYTaYt8cV1efd4E_ArhelLzFd5GYulHv-YBOPD2AV2LrOs3gJiNOny5FQ2pzziom-h4HS6IVT3GW_zGzOpgYuBwPDO7eb-u7v4zLUAXVAMZv9cg9cPgVYTGw/s4000/_TJB1970.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2667" data-original-width="4000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh989snKwMguCV066f_GW3eumV_zM2yboJVcZSztO9OPcbrtTs4HpdHJFkWHR_32L200eEFYTaYt8cV1efd4E_ArhelLzFd5GYulHv-YBOPD2AV2LrOs3gJiNOny5FQ2pzziom-h4HS6IVT3GW_zGzOpgYuBwPDO7eb-u7v4zLUAXVAMZv9cg9cPgVYTGw/w640-h426/_TJB1970.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View of the headland from our house-sit. Whitewater is where the big waves form.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p>We have been looking after a little young dog and an older mid-sized dog. The mid-sized dog is chill but the little one occasionally goes insane when it sees other dogs in the vicinity. There are also two fairly chill cats in this household. On the whole the younger dog is pretty manageable because she loves people so is very cute to be around. The condominium is up on the hills outside of Nazaré and close to an isolated country road that we have been able to walk along every day without coming across any other people with a dog thus avoiding the "crazy dog on a leash" experience altogether.<br /></p><p>We did take the older dog to the town beach one morning on a day that the younger dog was in doggy day-care and just avoided exposing the younger dog to other animals altogether.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju3jOw_oqf9heL41eCqh7ueCMMAWtSWh8qkG5m-SdUT-jPrR4sz4jm0spG__FWnItltlleghymQR3jtxJaMZ8oNe-0pYN2agcd9nVIfehShNmlmdjKPepxUe-O3LzPqqseO4Fda8L10TCDvw8FXtu4LTuSgYQxWgTRvkEKNkFSWSboM1dJc2c9TPD0b80/s4000/_TJB1988.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2667" data-original-width="4000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju3jOw_oqf9heL41eCqh7ueCMMAWtSWh8qkG5m-SdUT-jPrR4sz4jm0spG__FWnItltlleghymQR3jtxJaMZ8oNe-0pYN2agcd9nVIfehShNmlmdjKPepxUe-O3LzPqqseO4Fda8L10TCDvw8FXtu4LTuSgYQxWgTRvkEKNkFSWSboM1dJc2c9TPD0b80/w640-h426/_TJB1988.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nazaré town and the town beach<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p> Nazaré has become really famous over the past 10-12 years as a location that has the biggest waves in the world. The town has two beaches, Nazaré beach and North beach. North beach is where the massive waves are, when they come. Someone we met in Lagos who grew up in Nazaré told us that as a young girl her mother would not let her go to that beach because of their fear of the big waves and the backwash.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGD54aGqWuCf7XAWZoYnBA3f8uWbQDG3crZ9_2uqv6BS_JnNwtUGdsK2HZ2mW_Vbqav7zW5pPt1hwSjfs1N9r-8Z9t8aPFci4k3drxU0kxkJC4uoWGa-H3D2ltweM-GYBvTCyXpnH-505OfOjBA5pyPOWd-qepI8Gi3coph-GawUv4s6Z0_A1jqZ1lgTQ/s4000/_TJB2625.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2667" data-original-width="4000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGD54aGqWuCf7XAWZoYnBA3f8uWbQDG3crZ9_2uqv6BS_JnNwtUGdsK2HZ2mW_Vbqav7zW5pPt1hwSjfs1N9r-8Z9t8aPFci4k3drxU0kxkJC4uoWGa-H3D2ltweM-GYBvTCyXpnH-505OfOjBA5pyPOWd-qepI8Gi3coph-GawUv4s6Z0_A1jqZ1lgTQ/w640-h426/_TJB2625.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>There is a unique undersea canyon just off a headland near the town, which channels the water. On ideal days, when wind-driven swells and local currents arrive together with this up-welling of water you can get peaks in the ocean really close to the headland that reach heights of over 80ft.</p><p>What amazed me about this is the shape of the waves. When you witness big waves from ocean storms you expect to see waves that are more or less of even height, but these are like peaked mountains.</p><p>This is the time of year that these mountainous waves usually arrive at Nazaré. The <a href="https://www.cnn.com/2023/05/08/sport/sebastian-steudtner-big-wave-surfing-spt-intl/index.html">highest ever surfed at Nazaré</a> (so far) was in October 2020 with predictions that at some point in the future there will be a surfer who surfs a 100ft wave here.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzdigNssc-fwVvhAugVuVMw2ImIDlYyZJRdLawZRiEa3tVy7LdjlOBc-3FrIyMjWIg0F4q3gxi3XIPsLNIAR2e3XQFdxwgs31ZbyTKQbXW9xH4YiYL1BC6k6k3QkIpFb4gwiWks85zowAXrdf4V2TsOE0TPc_RX0Cnpvvg-Px8gpCyC43p4oH0NIlyZ6M/s4000/_TJB2585.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2667" data-original-width="4000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzdigNssc-fwVvhAugVuVMw2ImIDlYyZJRdLawZRiEa3tVy7LdjlOBc-3FrIyMjWIg0F4q3gxi3XIPsLNIAR2e3XQFdxwgs31ZbyTKQbXW9xH4YiYL1BC6k6k3QkIpFb4gwiWks85zowAXrdf4V2TsOE0TPc_RX0Cnpvvg-Px8gpCyC43p4oH0NIlyZ6M/w640-h426/_TJB2585.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>Unfortunately during our stay the waves were a modest 12-15ft which is still a massive wave. We would have loved to see larger waves but we only had a week and I think you either have to camp out here for the season or have weather maps that can predict the swell before it gets here.<br /><p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkSDyQKPnZNWHvSq7f_QDnZr2Yd7KY4NdswIMOhJk0rno6jhlac21MqSF_4R6xr5RAwQ9mIJEi9vAdsX2dg02YNaaieGrhp3z-Ndq1cIIUzMdsN4yECqVWDr9nTE5CIicTk31lLRrQsEofyvJ6O55vsRD7Ksgdmb2pFelZkOCGLQqT2wFfz7YMgaUVITg/s4000/_TJB2018.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2667" data-original-width="4000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkSDyQKPnZNWHvSq7f_QDnZr2Yd7KY4NdswIMOhJk0rno6jhlac21MqSF_4R6xr5RAwQ9mIJEi9vAdsX2dg02YNaaieGrhp3z-Ndq1cIIUzMdsN4yECqVWDr9nTE5CIicTk31lLRrQsEofyvJ6O55vsRD7Ksgdmb2pFelZkOCGLQqT2wFfz7YMgaUVITg/w640-h426/_TJB2018.jpg" width="640" /></a></div> <br />I was amazed at how crowded the little fort was while we were there on the Saturday. The waves were big enough to attract a couple of surfers, with their jet-ski teams, who briefly tried to surf.<p></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2Mb_bie7rRZWhmmLwvGexd17m43tCo8oDUYpRgjsM5a69WxsGbPga0TKmvcT8EYuzu3w_5huZr25GLlFNp28mhuHBjff3sWyrIBpyj-XP4npHqSss2bbZ-AGV0kcSckLL6dV1bfXKwFZbs2VDKcrDaNN6FyP-_j9KsMnozyTa3jDVxug3K3on775nyoc/s2647/_TJB2213.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1765" data-original-width="2647" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2Mb_bie7rRZWhmmLwvGexd17m43tCo8oDUYpRgjsM5a69WxsGbPga0TKmvcT8EYuzu3w_5huZr25GLlFNp28mhuHBjff3sWyrIBpyj-XP4npHqSss2bbZ-AGV0kcSckLL6dV1bfXKwFZbs2VDKcrDaNN6FyP-_j9KsMnozyTa3jDVxug3K3on775nyoc/w640-h426/_TJB2213.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A surfer on a wave - around 6 times the size of his crouched body</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p> I was particularly interested in finding the spot where the photographer was standing who took the iconic image of Sebastian Steudtner and to figure out what size zoom lens he had used to get some of the foreground of the fort into the image. The fort in the foreground gives a sense of scale and distance, comparing the people on the roof of the fort with the tiny surfer on the massive wave.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimGoA45QCRV57QXjuBisvEyxfnZ5c2KqOAzk6oaVRj2HQLL7hdQZ8bX17G5Rxe_oKLXJoS3RQTQx7FVzDfjAE0QhoL9PbnqDIQOrXFcbQg7kdoe9OsrlY_Q7ttVRy4zsEsujhV86skaXWEdBNBwklLtSrsk9lDoWua1mn7oGezvEJr3HItmMdq0MUJYeU/s4000/_TJB2072.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2667" data-original-width="4000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimGoA45QCRV57QXjuBisvEyxfnZ5c2KqOAzk6oaVRj2HQLL7hdQZ8bX17G5Rxe_oKLXJoS3RQTQx7FVzDfjAE0QhoL9PbnqDIQOrXFcbQg7kdoe9OsrlY_Q7ttVRy4zsEsujhV86skaXWEdBNBwklLtSrsk9lDoWua1mn7oGezvEJr3HItmMdq0MUJYeU/w640-h426/_TJB2072.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">200mm lens from the hill behind the fort<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p>We were not disappointed at all.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHnXAsthhi8gmS2z0Y8uDa4nAuiB1UMpO5DFIXeCfvLV-ngJgPG1qCWZKZE8kI3Y0ApaghqtuxFMuO1_9fe8Z8cMhputVcHiB4crS_CVfC4pd7R0cK6aMOD8KOi6uUuFY44Od2XnbMjv-COwtkDzHmCinfUK9_FJ65KxwqHA9GOihvdW-F3bXgIHhmohs/s4000/_TJB2476.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2667" data-original-width="4000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHnXAsthhi8gmS2z0Y8uDa4nAuiB1UMpO5DFIXeCfvLV-ngJgPG1qCWZKZE8kI3Y0ApaghqtuxFMuO1_9fe8Z8cMhputVcHiB4crS_CVfC4pd7R0cK6aMOD8KOi6uUuFY44Od2XnbMjv-COwtkDzHmCinfUK9_FJ65KxwqHA9GOihvdW-F3bXgIHhmohs/w640-h426/_TJB2476.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />In fact the only thing that was disappointing on the day was discovering that I don't much like Alheira, a Portuguese sausage made of a mixture of meats and breads that I boldly ordered for lunch. The texture and taste both surprised me.<p></p><p>I guess you have to try something twice before being sure so I'll have to try visiting Nazaré again sometime (and maybe take another bite of an Alheira sausage as well).<br /></p><p><br /></p>Timhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12828578695145994984noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8344844421099848427.post-41884784607759878852023-10-20T08:27:00.003-07:002023-10-20T08:49:09.728-07:00Portugal: Choices and consequences<p>We went for another visit to each of the houses that we had chosen. Even before we walked into the condo and were handed the condo rule book in Portuguese, we had decided to opt for autonomy over convenience.</p><p>So, almost exactly a year after we drove down our steep driveway in Essex for the last time, we decided to put an offer in on the Energy House. <br /></p><p>I suppose two things really influenced our approach to the offer. The first was remembering how painful some of the unforeseen complications in the previous house were and the second was that we had a backup plan to come back again next year to continue looking if necessary. </p><p>We lived in our previous house (a duplex) without complication for more or less the first 6 years - and then for the next 11 years had to deal with condominium management issues (neighbors not paying) and a neighbor who bought land behind us and delighted in using his access to the right of way in front of our house to engage in a pissing contest with us every winter.</p><p>The bottom section of our driveway was shared with two neighbors, one really nice couple who really needed it to access a portion of their land (but never used it) and the other (behind us) who didn't need it (a driveway had been built directly to his property before he bought his land) but he insisted on exercising his right to use it because the right to use it existed.</p><p>The consequence was that every now and again in the summer he'd drive some farm equipment over it and in the winter when snow storms hit and we struggled for hours to clear the driveway and occasionally to help our neighbors who would get stuck, he would pull up and start complaining or yelling about his right of way being blocked.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dzFU99DYEbj-AYz8BLCMZ61MB6lO2NeTZL_4gCIqACEuaBy6qaHWnGWcIXg5dmKkTl8TGB1Vx7dCKQg3ey-bg' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><br /><p></p><p>At one point we had someone living next door with other tenants who was single, in her late 50s and who worked as a carer for some elderly people in a nearby town. She would come home after her shift and occasionally (say a couple of times each winter) get stuck somewhere on the driveway.</p><p>Of course it was annoying - she didn't have winter tires, didn't drive up the driveway boldly enough and didn't plan her comings and goings very well but I would go out and try to help if she got stuck. </p><p>Our neighbor behind, in contrast, would come by at some point and start yelling about her blocking his right of way, completely ignoring the irony of being able to drive around to the front of the house from his house, without even using the right of way that she was blocking!<br /></p><p>He made the outrageous suggestion that she should park at the city hall if it snowed enough to prevent her from getting up the driveway - a walk of a good 20 minutes, late at night, in sub-zero temperatures.</p><p>The people living in the 2nd unit of the condominium became increasingly difficult to deal with as well. Over the 11 years it changed hands 4 times, each time getting worse. Towards the end with the last two owners we had a boarding house operating from the unit with very little that we could remedy. I described in <a href="https://timbouwer.blogspot.com/2022/10/selling-home.html">an earlier entry</a> what we discovered about the last sale of that second unit and how the previous owner had scammed them into thinking they were buying both our and their properties. <br /></p><p>So our new house would not have a shared right of way, nor would it be in a condominium.</p><p>We'll set aside for the moment the possibility that we'll still have crappy neighbors. At least they won't have leverage over parts of our property to make our lives miserable.<br /></p><p>So, given that we felt this way, and, more importantly, that we were prepared to walk away from the house and come back in 3 months and begin the process all over again, we put in an offer that was considerably lower than the listed price. We had heard that the house had been on the market for about 7 months before we looked at it and so our offer was accepted by the seller with a little bit of haggling. There are plenty of houses on the market in southern Portugal that are changing hands rapidly for large amounts of money but they are mostly along the coast so a little inland gives you a chance of a better deal.</p><p>While we waited for the process following our accepted offer to unfold we had a house-sit near the town of Santarem - close to where a friend from Kimberley lives with her husband. </p><p></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmH8lyxnQdqgG4OO8TpacWsqt0C4cqJdOezDLzC_a3ckiMQ43XVlx_n8N4nXBcb18OPV6D5hUngwxYH5_RjZtGNO1b9427cwce4ieVzvB1fPXMDGJ9gJJjIEKhGMSMu2IJDcSaVYuTt_RNCwLijsA3Rw-7TUFDrVAXUvvC7hOpWEkt_0cfYYWe01bYZQg/s4032/IMG_9430.HEIC" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmH8lyxnQdqgG4OO8TpacWsqt0C4cqJdOezDLzC_a3ckiMQ43XVlx_n8N4nXBcb18OPV6D5hUngwxYH5_RjZtGNO1b9427cwce4ieVzvB1fPXMDGJ9gJJjIEKhGMSMu2IJDcSaVYuTt_RNCwLijsA3Rw-7TUFDrVAXUvvC7hOpWEkt_0cfYYWe01bYZQg/w300-h400/IMG_9430.HEIC" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Two heroes and a pigeon, Santarem - photo Anne<br /></td></tr></tbody></table> <p></p><p>We stayed in a large house with beautiful tiled floors looking after two English Setters - the "gun dogs" used for hunting, except one of them was freaked out by the little insect zapper we occasionally used on the mosquitoes that managed to evade their mosquito screens and the other was freaked out by the sound of gunshots from hunting that happens in the area twice a week (hunters with dogs who walk the land looking for birds to flush out).</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXfYAa0Nx0a_aMQGAlIFgHe8uJfK4nDaiKfygJfCdC6G2fMrOuYSfCsfqsGoFChInGEd3__B7H-L6jIyVe8cOiKyXqJ6EDEn6QIZ36hAhOrzASkraU_cSPChrRVt5eTB3SC3YykpgrUMdiD2vUGIaSvFtHo9OBY8qfUDv5b-brfHFzGUsFJ3nDy4j9eZU/s3735/IMG_4904.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2801" data-original-width="3735" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXfYAa0Nx0a_aMQGAlIFgHe8uJfK4nDaiKfygJfCdC6G2fMrOuYSfCsfqsGoFChInGEd3__B7H-L6jIyVe8cOiKyXqJ6EDEn6QIZ36hAhOrzASkraU_cSPChrRVt5eTB3SC3YykpgrUMdiD2vUGIaSvFtHo9OBY8qfUDv5b-brfHFzGUsFJ3nDy4j9eZU/w640-h480/IMG_4904.HEIC" width="640" /></a></div><p>We underestimated their skittishness when we watched the quarter final between France and South Africa on the Sunday night where our clapping and shouting sent them both out into the yard. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbX9thHqaYtreUFYY01tI5k-c4g3dO_NG4FGELk68RadRz0nSXKgzmH5N674MGlNr9OK0gvpbxuuduX62VYePXnsXWIaRPbgVshyphenhyphen4QQ8e28s_Vq41tplkttAeRYZv2iEJoCwbTiOkPjPIwoc9twJlEHdiLuNmAAm1R3VjsWGX6PPeWsMmXRsVYLvNmV9g/s4032/IMG_9686.HEIC" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbX9thHqaYtreUFYY01tI5k-c4g3dO_NG4FGELk68RadRz0nSXKgzmH5N674MGlNr9OK0gvpbxuuduX62VYePXnsXWIaRPbgVshyphenhyphen4QQ8e28s_Vq41tplkttAeRYZv2iEJoCwbTiOkPjPIwoc9twJlEHdiLuNmAAm1R3VjsWGX6PPeWsMmXRsVYLvNmV9g/w640-h480/IMG_9686.HEIC" width="640" /></a></div><br />I found them much later in two separate corners wagging feebly, their eyes shining pitifully in the beam of my flashlight. <p></p><p>Being outside was probably the best therapy for them because once we coaxed them to come back inside with us they were as happy as clams to sleep on their beds in our bedroom again.</p><p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiE-VCMp2b-pX1vP84y_3aGW5HaslutRazwHJyZzNo6tszmFdQPymnzwLuhVm0TTGz3tlks07D_5fJ4mhBEF_aAtR1U5uHQkNYY7dkgXRBRubuIIKlLihRzl3ovcyz5XK1xJXfPuGvxQ7VXjBxEq0vp7HpNl28wICJJ0vqXmuHie1w8-fhhYLBLKIyrLDs/s8742/IMG_4899.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3816" data-original-width="8742" height="280" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiE-VCMp2b-pX1vP84y_3aGW5HaslutRazwHJyZzNo6tszmFdQPymnzwLuhVm0TTGz3tlks07D_5fJ4mhBEF_aAtR1U5uHQkNYY7dkgXRBRubuIIKlLihRzl3ovcyz5XK1xJXfPuGvxQ7VXjBxEq0vp7HpNl28wICJJ0vqXmuHie1w8-fhhYLBLKIyrLDs/w640-h280/IMG_4899.HEIC" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p>During our trip to Santerem a survey of the Energy house was completed by an engineer who found a few minor things that we will need to correct if the sale goes through. We are now in the process of legal diligence where a lawyer checks that the property does not have any debt associated with it and all the plans are in place to justify the structure.</p><p>There is a risk that things won't conclude but it is diminishing as we move through each phase of the process. We have returned to Lagos and have signed papers to give our lawyer power of attorney to conclude the sale for us if things drag out beyond when we return to the USA in a few weeks.</p><p>In the meantime, we are finding other obstacles to do with getting residence permits. It is inevitably more difficult than you imagine and there is a constant stream of conditions that we hadn't thought of but are gradually wading through.</p><p>For example, it appears that you might have to show proof of steady income in your retirement. This is not difficult for people coming from a country or company where there are pensions that start paying out when you retire, but the USA reinvented all of that in 1978 when they introduced a law that allowed for 401k plans. Basically a 401k is an investment account into which the employer can put pretax retirement funds for the employee and the employee can decide how to invest these funds. Often the money is deducted from the employee's salary pre-tax and occasionally the employer matches a small percentage as an incentive to contribute.<br /></p><p>In addition to not having pensions, there is a very strong incentive to delay drawing Social Security, the government pension also funded from your monthly salary. The biggest monthly payout comes when you are 70 (you can draw earlier but the monthly payments are almost double at 70 than they are if you start at say, 63).</p><p>So this presents a perfect storm if you have to show proof of regular income for a retiree. There is a chance that the person reviewing your application will consider savings accounts and investment accounts as unreliable proof because "who knows, you could gamble it all away, or buy a boat!" We are working to eliminate this risk in the process.<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhei6lx-f6SEXAkApn8ZSniTyN3kb6uqFR-LPGtX5OUM3HB5aPJ7f0FaXwarSFhVBis_miX0OBrm3-JuGdfDuhw66rKjrUDthLfBHnBQtr3otbSu9lYCIZ9oI29X0I2_vt-N_25H8K8rI8bAetwyGkhMZhW7thjNaEx2wQU_DIXkuJNbRrDgnUAbxaBT4c/s3088/IMG_4907.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2316" data-original-width="3088" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhei6lx-f6SEXAkApn8ZSniTyN3kb6uqFR-LPGtX5OUM3HB5aPJ7f0FaXwarSFhVBis_miX0OBrm3-JuGdfDuhw66rKjrUDthLfBHnBQtr3otbSu9lYCIZ9oI29X0I2_vt-N_25H8K8rI8bAetwyGkhMZhW7thjNaEx2wQU_DIXkuJNbRrDgnUAbxaBT4c/w640-h480/IMG_4907.HEIC" width="640" /></a></div><p>We have one more trip which will be up to Nazaré next week where at around this time of year they have freak 100ft waves that crazy people try to surf.</p><p>Wait, is this a metaphor for what we are doing? </p><p>Maybe.<br /></p><p><br /></p>Timhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12828578695145994984noreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8344844421099848427.post-72646714149431472892023-10-05T01:32:00.002-07:002023-10-05T01:32:43.281-07:00Portugal: House hunting<p>I mentioned that we had a person who seemed a good option to help us buy a property. He had promised to identify the pitfalls etc, but turned out to be acting at a slower pace than we needed. <br /></p><p>We switched out approach and started contacting selling agents directly to arrange to view houses. Within a couple of days we were visiting properties that we had found on a variety of web sites - the most useful of which is <a href="https://www.idealista.pt/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Idealista</a> - a site that my cousin showed us in April when we first visited Portugal. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4KpPF_Lb9D7xfcldiAFSUa9aF6zF8rOMIhTV9PwE6MrpZ7LzCeJj17PEkAS5TC0CRNn1xtnNangdWv4EisGdC7h-dPQA0eQ82TvhoLEFTq0LV0apDUf8Ivo8_exElRTwQV_VaTNBkliCdo8fG5xAFYQ3Oi8pXPVir8bl106VieQ8Dx-J3JL16IzgRNQ4/s1828/idealista.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1180" data-original-width="1828" height="207" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4KpPF_Lb9D7xfcldiAFSUa9aF6zF8rOMIhTV9PwE6MrpZ7LzCeJj17PEkAS5TC0CRNn1xtnNangdWv4EisGdC7h-dPQA0eQ82TvhoLEFTq0LV0apDUf8Ivo8_exElRTwQV_VaTNBkliCdo8fG5xAFYQ3Oi8pXPVir8bl106VieQ8Dx-J3JL16IzgRNQ4/s320/idealista.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Idealista aggregates listings from a number of realtors and puts you in touch with them by filling in a form. You can isolate the area you are interested in by drawing a shape on the map. Once you have the area you can set additional filters that specify high and low prices and other items like the number of bedrooms and bathrooms etc. <br /><p></p><p>I also took to using google to search for property listings in Portugal and skipping any with "Luxury" in their description.</p><p>We included a few things in our list of nice to haves: a roof terrace, a swimming pool and at least 2 bedrooms.<br /></p><p>It didn't take long for us to get a full calendar of viewing appointments, and we didn't stop looking. I ended up on the <a href="https://global.remax.com/en/listings/portugal" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">ReMax</a> website for Portugal where there were a ton of offerings in our price range. At this point we decided to go in and see an agent who could show us all of them, rather than reaching out to each ReMax agent in turn.</p><p>Interestingly (and to my dismay) the agent offered to become a buying agent for us as well. No fee, but he'd negotiate some commission for his company with the seller and, he promised, he would give us his personal attention and get us the place we were looking for . He also said that it was fine for us to continue looking with other realtors but we should send any new listings his way. We decided to send our existing ReMax listings to him but to continue to pursue agents from other companies ourselves.<br /></p><p>We sent him about 8-10 houses but after a week he still hadn't set up any viewings. Once he did start trying to create viewings the existing appointments we'd already set made it hard for him to find time with us. I did feel a little bad for him, because he had to find a time that suited both us and the realtor selling the property which is not easy. </p><p>Even so we had a low rate of successful viewings with him. Some were cancelled because they were sold before we got there and others were canceled when the selling agent was suddenly not available at the time we'd scheduled. I suspect the additional glitch was that the selling realtors do not really want to share commission with a buying agent.</p><p>It soon became apparent that our "dream" house nice-to-haves were not very realistic for the price and locations that we were trying to accommodate. We came across an absolutely amazing looking home that checked all the boxes and were blown away by it on our first view. Elegant, with great views and a terrace overlooking a swimming pool.</p><p>The price was a lot more than we had set but we were encouraged to make an offer if we liked it because there was room for negotiation.<br /></p><p>We went back for a second viewing and this time started to notice a ton of things that were concerning. An outside annex with a bedroom and shower that had a massive crack in it right through the wall, a bathroom built under the terrace with an exterior wall made of plaster board and a septic tank that looked like it was collapsing - the ground above it was half an inch lower in a neat rectangular shape the size of the septic tank. There were de-humidifiers in the rooms and no obvious heat or cooling other than space heaters and a fireplace.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivw8wQzE0m7ntnrmIgbGIBW_QgPxJbhM4jZTseUwbh1T3GD1tThUnIA4S-lSu8nqF8oAiOf10vXfTdlkzdXEhTQG6f9G4Kw03k1Um-OaASLTNScmnu5BhMXlp9sc_JN_RI3FIthtyHuHPTAme5ovZw78Y50o-9Q3KZTVYrVnJ8qWRTZQ2wRRuxufW_cfY/s4032/IMG_4876.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivw8wQzE0m7ntnrmIgbGIBW_QgPxJbhM4jZTseUwbh1T3GD1tThUnIA4S-lSu8nqF8oAiOf10vXfTdlkzdXEhTQG6f9G4Kw03k1Um-OaASLTNScmnu5BhMXlp9sc_JN_RI3FIthtyHuHPTAme5ovZw78Y50o-9Q3KZTVYrVnJ8qWRTZQ2wRRuxufW_cfY/w640-h480/IMG_4876.HEIC" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p>In the Algarve it is much like the Eastern Cape. Short wet winters and dry warm summers. The average temperature in winter is around 11C (51F) which is not very cold - excepting if the house is not insulated. Some people say you are really only cold in December and January and it starts warming again in February. I'll bet it is a little longer than that, but either way an un-insulated, damp house is not the greatest way to spend a winter.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAYTLIShkgct_aMH9gilUX1yHT3iRM0BhXwHZmHxhzOhn8SN0XEPMNXjkXuFlKgVrEtdSOhlAGBkFJr66zJJg1_ICpMnwAZrabRzfd90XUOaBqG8WY-zvMgr1EXitSY3uxfztN0ytTOxTeec6bRABUP9b12t7ZlLoPHvHdk30CN_MKHHPjzh5hyphenhyphen1DtVoc/s4032/IMG_4875.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAYTLIShkgct_aMH9gilUX1yHT3iRM0BhXwHZmHxhzOhn8SN0XEPMNXjkXuFlKgVrEtdSOhlAGBkFJr66zJJg1_ICpMnwAZrabRzfd90XUOaBqG8WY-zvMgr1EXitSY3uxfztN0ytTOxTeec6bRABUP9b12t7ZlLoPHvHdk30CN_MKHHPjzh5hyphenhyphen1DtVoc/w640-h480/IMG_4875.HEIC" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p>We had a free Monday morning this week and decided to walk down a dirt path to a large salt-marsh. Olhão (pronounced Olyon and sort of rhymes with "onion"). The coast here has a big off-shore bar behind which is a large area of wetlands. A ferry can take you to the bar, where you can spend the day on the beach.<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjujfzK2wl6zeMbiWnGjkKs545WfNv3Wo2EXk5UjLgLpDGgDIkb6ayljXXZFSCd4682rOMtg4hOaeOE1X7UmVmxKwKV_rkJPMEkPZa4Of0ynB5kCriclgWbJC_j1VdmUvadBQsoJu-QTfUXQzv8UWEK5EQN_R1Ullq-8sbJDoNPE-Wk4f59rDB6XABwyPw/s8054/IMG_4856.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3928" data-original-width="8054" height="312" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjujfzK2wl6zeMbiWnGjkKs545WfNv3Wo2EXk5UjLgLpDGgDIkb6ayljXXZFSCd4682rOMtg4hOaeOE1X7UmVmxKwKV_rkJPMEkPZa4Of0ynB5kCriclgWbJC_j1VdmUvadBQsoJu-QTfUXQzv8UWEK5EQN_R1Ullq-8sbJDoNPE-Wk4f59rDB6XABwyPw/w640-h312/IMG_4856.HEIC" width="640" /></a></div><p>I took my camera bag with me thinking that we might see some birds that I could photograph but we were inundated by mosquitoes and I lost enthusiasm for sitting there for a long time. We decided to come back to the AirBnb, stopping for some coffee at a small, very simple Portuguese restaurant on the corner of our street. The restaurant is unassuming with simple plastic furniture and is mostly frequented by the locals.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyE21mVxrOsLgYl-WLx2D7NxfVGrGPCQBRZRiCrsuLP-TXvV0_-QtVDyXSK686SJu9AjVJ30D020EGh11pZPE40u1mmNzQ80TXZ5x5_YKr4okSxtFSsPUBkNTQ9BMaHFBA-YQABvEuowl8VXTEN9Y2EFkvZdtiScKnaQRQtMWgSJDw2Q3_69QZ5MqenI8/s4032/IMG_4865.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyE21mVxrOsLgYl-WLx2D7NxfVGrGPCQBRZRiCrsuLP-TXvV0_-QtVDyXSK686SJu9AjVJ30D020EGh11pZPE40u1mmNzQ80TXZ5x5_YKr4okSxtFSsPUBkNTQ9BMaHFBA-YQABvEuowl8VXTEN9Y2EFkvZdtiScKnaQRQtMWgSJDw2Q3_69QZ5MqenI8/w640-h480/IMG_4865.HEIC" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p>I haven't used my camera as much as I thought I would on these travels. The truth is that we are driving and exploring a lot and other than when we visit new places we are doing a lot of repetitive activities where documenting with iphone snapshots is much easier. </p><p>So it was not surprising that I didn't think about my camera until about five days later when I looked in the usual spot for it and didn't find it there.</p><p>I was immediately in a panic. I remembered taking it in the car a few times one some of our outings and not using it and of course, on this walk on the Monday. I realized that I must have left it under the table outside of the restaurant where we had coffee.</p><p>We had to leave for another house viewing early that morning so it wasn't until lunchtime when we returned that I was able to go into the restaurant to ask if they had seen it.</p><p>The owner said she spoke only "un poco" English so I mimed drinking coffee and putting on my backpack and I saw the realization dawning on her face. With a big smile she lifted my camera bag from behind her counter and placed it in front of me.<br /></p><p>Anne was waiting in the car outside and after insisting that the owner take all of the Euros in my wallet (she objected but eventually relented) I walked out with the bag over my shoulder. Anne saw me coming out with a huge grin on my face, my backpack on my back, and she ran into the restaurant to give the owner a big hug!</p><p>It is amazing that we were able to recover it considering how easily the bag might have been picked up by a passer by or just taken by a staff member (we lost a pair of binoculars at a restaurant in southern Mexico that way in December last year so we knew the feeling)! <br /></p><p>We were so happy and relieved!<br /></p><p>By the 3rd week of house viewings we had on average one or more viewings
a day lined up for most mornings. By now we have processed around 50
properties - some were cancelled but we have seen most of them.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRMxVYOjnWEd5NVgSYJkrCefhHVDGMZ_gqzxGRhH_OT2EwNzRaqltxiow2bSfuqvM0RKtf8Uj0r-bnBXDzzrslFmgNjr5olF39QTrgdY8Yuj69p2C7Fj_qGENKa8RL0CIwKE9najowyirFCCA7php5sQYkqirmWymY7L3rAW9dnDC0CZJBcsaX4wlhAQw/s2586/Screenshot%202023-10-04%20at%2011.46.46%E2%80%AFAM.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1518" data-original-width="2586" height="376" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRMxVYOjnWEd5NVgSYJkrCefhHVDGMZ_gqzxGRhH_OT2EwNzRaqltxiow2bSfuqvM0RKtf8Uj0r-bnBXDzzrslFmgNjr5olF39QTrgdY8Yuj69p2C7Fj_qGENKa8RL0CIwKE9najowyirFCCA7php5sQYkqirmWymY7L3rAW9dnDC0CZJBcsaX4wlhAQw/w640-h376/Screenshot%202023-10-04%20at%2011.46.46%E2%80%AFAM.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p>We had this one amazing house on the list. The owner, who is German/Croatian is passionate about energy efficiency and has renovated his house to the point where it gets an "A" grade. He refitted it with "wet" underfloor heating, managed by a tank of hot water that is heated by a solar panel and from a wood cooking stove in the kitchen. In winter the stove doubles as a heater for the house and for the hot water. Of course this hot water is also used for the bath and showers. The house has air-conditioners with inverters that can both warm and cool the interior and insulation in the walls and roof to keep the heat or cool inside when the double-glazed windows and doors are closed. He also built a fully equipped gas kitchen/braai outside to use in the summer.<br /></p><p>The downside of this house was marginal but has weighed on us. The price is more than we can afford (although we believe that we could bid for lower than they have listed) and the house was located in a pocket of 7-10 houses around 8 min from the nearest small town (São Bartolemue de Messines) and about 16min from a town big enough to have a hospital (Silves). </p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj5uqH4N8uHu6SxSEpBcH6Ut4wDQi9Cm2vJNQJtT1EaUWmmmO5qnVNNe2oNHxGLSpUJ60Q-XKiRMxBqsxZzYrnyT2XAoKmdDhyL3J6gaHNgu-S9d4qxCkF2jYJPQTS1TIh_2urNG3H6YszlpxLh9UvtOOmwjPOWR4eSQGgkFpcO8Qc8cEE4oAeq-szNyc/s4032/IMG_4851.HEIC" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj5uqH4N8uHu6SxSEpBcH6Ut4wDQi9Cm2vJNQJtT1EaUWmmmO5qnVNNe2oNHxGLSpUJ60Q-XKiRMxBqsxZzYrnyT2XAoKmdDhyL3J6gaHNgu-S9d4qxCkF2jYJPQTS1TIh_2urNG3H6YszlpxLh9UvtOOmwjPOWR4eSQGgkFpcO8Qc8cEE4oAeq-szNyc/w640-h480/IMG_4851.HEIC" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Moorish castle at Silves<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /> It is also a 20-30min drive from the sea.<br /><p></p><p>The location matches for convenience more or less what we had near Boston - somewhat remote and a short driving distance from most amenities. But this, at a time when we are supposed to be thinking about getting old and having things close-by (preferably walk-able) has made it a less attractive option.</p><p>On the other hand we also started to look at smaller terraced houses in or near a town called Albufeira which is one or two kilometers from the sea. We have fairly big reservations about living in a condo, but it appears that things might be a little more relaxed in that department in Portugal given how they are regulated and that many of the home-owners are away for a good portion of the year. </p><p>We decided to also give condo houses a look. In some cases they come with a shared pool. The shared areas include the pillars, roof and terraces and the upkeep of the shared areas is handled by the condo management company rather than by the owner for a small fee (between 40 and 160 Euros a month). Apparently it is mandated by law that condominiums are renovated at least every 8 years but when we asked about this, the realtor said, "Yes, sort of...". If the condominium fund is not able to pay for this, the owners have to chip in - so there is likely a sum of money that we'd have to keep aside for this eventuality over and above the regular fee.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXUV94BuFlj6DoC1iTJYPLlW-zIU2qkc6iL6GSONUSTgydI-Z9YuutDqtwv5rzg6P8nTEIM7B4eizs-XhEKa6YcxFQW582lfjGzrKosg4oPCcnCJtDdwcI62H5Z3zqPX4L7STXQ6R9B3Mrd61bHVm8MeZsF3TyOwQMlTKMOWwryXgqylAxmd4HPKIEAGA/s4032/IMG_4863.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXUV94BuFlj6DoC1iTJYPLlW-zIU2qkc6iL6GSONUSTgydI-Z9YuutDqtwv5rzg6P8nTEIM7B4eizs-XhEKa6YcxFQW582lfjGzrKosg4oPCcnCJtDdwcI62H5Z3zqPX4L7STXQ6R9B3Mrd61bHVm8MeZsF3TyOwQMlTKMOWwryXgqylAxmd4HPKIEAGA/w640-h480/IMG_4863.HEIC" width="640" /></a></div> <p></p><p>We saw a really great little terraced house in a condo this week with a garden it has become the second of two we are considering buying.</p><p>It is a two bedroom house with a garden and a terrace about 30min walk from the sea so it checks off most of our boxes if not the "don't live in a condo" one. </p><p>To be honest we have gone back and forth on these two houses for days. The one that we call the "Energy house" and this condo close to the ocean. We have driven past both of them a few times, taking the time on Sunday to park near the condo house and walk from there to the closest beach where we had a swim and lunch.</p><p>On our walk to the beach we came to an intersection where an older couple were walking seemingly from the beach. I said to Anne: "Perhaps we can ask them if this road is a short cut to the beach" so we called out to them, "Excuse me" and were amazed that they apparently didn't hear us. We tried again twice and they just kept walking.</p><p>Anne and I have been traveling for months and my hair has grown down to my shoulders so perhaps we just looked sketchy to them but I more or less shouted in frustration: "We are just looking for directions to the beach".<br /></p><p>The man turned on his heel - maybe 20feet away from us now and said in a clipped Irish accent: "Ohh now, you just take that road down there and look for a slight left turn and it is about a 10min walk from here".</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9tqFCGP-6VXhR5ddZeQGLMRCZHu_JU9rr5elMbRl8CYM3MjcI0qqaDC0UeFccIaRwVpqPDOc7bHgWIlgjHA0eej9DAWTnJrdVDvR_CLUbzNR1K4AqtPKkGsJaGc8DYmQBFiPsKqEfV7XDdXMoFNeBd45GXTRMTlJSN3hPCwGy3nG6a_0hqz8pTp9Vglw/s1024/WhatsApp%20Image%202023-10-04%20at%2012.26.38.jpeg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="768" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9tqFCGP-6VXhR5ddZeQGLMRCZHu_JU9rr5elMbRl8CYM3MjcI0qqaDC0UeFccIaRwVpqPDOc7bHgWIlgjHA0eej9DAWTnJrdVDvR_CLUbzNR1K4AqtPKkGsJaGc8DYmQBFiPsKqEfV7XDdXMoFNeBd45GXTRMTlJSN3hPCwGy3nG6a_0hqz8pTp9Vglw/w480-h640/WhatsApp%20Image%202023-10-04%20at%2012.26.38.jpeg" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hippy hair and unusual wall art in Albufeira - photo by Anne<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p>It was so weird - not just because they ignored us, but that they swung around without a murmur of anger that I'd shouted at them and carried on as if they'd stopped on our first "Excuse me".<br /></p><p>We had already driven to the "Energy house" a couple of times and mapped the distances to relevant amenities so we had that information as well.</p><p>I think what has sealed the deal for us is this thought: "What are the chances that in the next 10-15 years we'll end up having some difficulty with those who are elected to manage the condo?" I think it is fair to say that it is quite a bit greater than zero. If we own a free-standing house and we have a neighbor who isn't great we can take steps to either ignore or isolate ourselves from them. </p><p>Neighbor problems are often noise-related or related to disputed territory (rights of way etc.) so having to deal with something like that is also a likely future. I think we are better equipped for that than if we live in a community where we feel powerless to make changes to improve our own lives.</p><p>This week we have to decide and we'll fret and lose some sleep while we make up our minds.<br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikzrGbL07HrmSjWF8UrQQWydyQmIV9XBas6U5-Ez2cuX5wKQ9TQfa4AeZPqKgk3tcvNsID2QokWgfIlt2XYCFad5F4FCjHG-LU3veEpxbjaXNVV9UjGMYiBSTIYGEE6l0aazIt1sS9vQRhALtUHO3uXvQ5vdZYt9Mh8Yo4TDYZC-_7bpicWjGv60_Yn2Q/s4032/IMG_4868.HEIC" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikzrGbL07HrmSjWF8UrQQWydyQmIV9XBas6U5-Ez2cuX5wKQ9TQfa4AeZPqKgk3tcvNsID2QokWgfIlt2XYCFad5F4FCjHG-LU3veEpxbjaXNVV9UjGMYiBSTIYGEE6l0aazIt1sS9vQRhALtUHO3uXvQ5vdZYt9Mh8Yo4TDYZC-_7bpicWjGv60_Yn2Q/w640-h480/IMG_4868.HEIC" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Curry Leaf in Lagos<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p><br /></p>Timhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12828578695145994984noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8344844421099848427.post-77186482876148955592023-09-16T10:48:00.001-07:002023-09-26T07:28:51.687-07:00Portugal mais uma vez (once again)<p>After Cornwall we took a train ride up to Manchester to see our friend, Stephen. He lives in Sale, a stone's throw from the Manchester United stadium.</p><p>Steve treated us to good food, great conversation and a trip to a massive sculpture garden in Yorkshire, which is about an hour's drive from Manchester. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEia-c7kBwDwesGdW8_6l2hCN99G7lRIlHMlzYQc5Jb4tJ044gbwAqo5nRLjZk22Uua-jSev7JsPHTIsbUaNAl-Ddr9hOlqjNNYE1dEZgfLdSW5e9z5nywHegLwcBjtojocLXo2cfvM7i7ya_mvCngRZae4q5I8qA39WCNb25AGdLwj8KWPYJbfaJutGUdU/s4000/_TJB0450.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2667" data-original-width="4000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEia-c7kBwDwesGdW8_6l2hCN99G7lRIlHMlzYQc5Jb4tJ044gbwAqo5nRLjZk22Uua-jSev7JsPHTIsbUaNAl-Ddr9hOlqjNNYE1dEZgfLdSW5e9z5nywHegLwcBjtojocLXo2cfvM7i7ya_mvCngRZae4q5I8qA39WCNb25AGdLwj8KWPYJbfaJutGUdU/w640-h426/_TJB0450.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />We spent time walking in the gardens with his two lovely children and their partners. <p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitywQU0oiMWcAl7N1Fnnnz9UhZC592r7R9tXkj34SXmCgQADyH1TvE0ksRD3mpeM38h6B_WpnoZMNxAxPaA3tkazmvQrYhVV9Pskp4n62A7L0uoYnR1ePGe4rXiCM9ogH1ReBrrNP0co8xWS9kNpIhLh_xgyV1qDJl8Xei4i0idwxwV1qn0wroZTCXz-Y/s3024/IMG_4734.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1908" data-original-width="3024" height="404" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitywQU0oiMWcAl7N1Fnnnz9UhZC592r7R9tXkj34SXmCgQADyH1TvE0ksRD3mpeM38h6B_WpnoZMNxAxPaA3tkazmvQrYhVV9Pskp4n62A7L0uoYnR1ePGe4rXiCM9ogH1ReBrrNP0co8xWS9kNpIhLh_xgyV1qDJl8Xei4i0idwxwV1qn0wroZTCXz-Y/w640-h404/IMG_4734.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /> The grounds are extensive and Anne had her fill of the majestic ancient trees. <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih491_BYigDZEdh6zCeOo-_WIgYOwJpSewYH_rkBTCYIGC1rC635lfZvDj-TE0WkedRHGHrNhSVsFO_FOh4mMAkwHckBEsXnQxx1HMbWKdFbuHV-F2ZcVwHibkEpp5nnSya7Xde4xHDo24bRleuC2rrxM9MFy85JytHEX3klEtCXrMVYv-TAxsfkxlXKM/s4032/IMG_7319.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih491_BYigDZEdh6zCeOo-_WIgYOwJpSewYH_rkBTCYIGC1rC635lfZvDj-TE0WkedRHGHrNhSVsFO_FOh4mMAkwHckBEsXnQxx1HMbWKdFbuHV-F2ZcVwHibkEpp5nnSya7Xde4xHDo24bRleuC2rrxM9MFy85JytHEX3klEtCXrMVYv-TAxsfkxlXKM/w480-h640/IMG_7319.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Credit: Anne - one of her many photos of the giant trees<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br />Steve drove us back via Sheffield to give us more scenery. The countryside of England is very beautiful.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5LJmoF2O2JyHbcXQx2WLetSc_oPeUZt9qVXYr824ptdZQlpeZfyfUDA5jd8rX0IpxIE4QSOLLXGz-CHxcEX0HmD6GVsdFzOlra_EDHv9TkEewKMQIQiyLaDADGx-XA9e9NVzwlXqmHOke8ofsUYY4SUaHQY0RJPjuLvK1mb4hUTPcoZzo4QmVn9wCX9U/s4000/_TJB0466.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2667" data-original-width="4000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5LJmoF2O2JyHbcXQx2WLetSc_oPeUZt9qVXYr824ptdZQlpeZfyfUDA5jd8rX0IpxIE4QSOLLXGz-CHxcEX0HmD6GVsdFzOlra_EDHv9TkEewKMQIQiyLaDADGx-XA9e9NVzwlXqmHOke8ofsUYY4SUaHQY0RJPjuLvK1mb4hUTPcoZzo4QmVn9wCX9U/w640-h426/_TJB0466.jpg" width="640" /></a></div> <p></p><p>From Manchester we flew to Lisbon to spend 10 days with our two daughters and their families in Seixal - a town south of the river that separates Lisbon from the south. We took some time to go to an art gallery in Lisbon and to visit a castle in the famous town of Sintra in the mountains north-west of Lisbon. <br /></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVCFNTCvgFS2f5zn_bo8N0LYPQsJCSYVZYUow6QeKCr8tfxnnEdkyBUvDnqZdvPbAlMCBoyUsk4_bG2ew-bKb98fg-zfhzn9Gy_veJP5XjU1P6ACMVK-KBbR5r1XgfR3IKxTYlPXrrxjWMOUePHv9i7UYtLiCt6EGgsTEblPQ9lHTAk-VGMS0cPWdFirM/s4000/_TJB0513_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2667" data-original-width="4000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVCFNTCvgFS2f5zn_bo8N0LYPQsJCSYVZYUow6QeKCr8tfxnnEdkyBUvDnqZdvPbAlMCBoyUsk4_bG2ew-bKb98fg-zfhzn9Gy_veJP5XjU1P6ACMVK-KBbR5r1XgfR3IKxTYlPXrrxjWMOUePHv9i7UYtLiCt6EGgsTEblPQ9lHTAk-VGMS0cPWdFirM/w640-h426/_TJB0513_HDR.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />but most of the time we spent on a few beaches near to our AirBnb - one of which was particularly well suited to swimming despite fairly large waves breaking off shore.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4YtcAGmVjLZ7vGk39DzglJQdLxHzLENlYdUCqoI4KBtlyztPtr5l7Q7k5iKAWQIsrXQs8TCcUFa6LLmWNvMV1gSzoetty6_dUeidaXAvDFi2huR71j8_7U9YMAyLvYZPvrmGMiu3EGjmTRthmiDRdBqGjIAYJpU7L57oyDgWr_7OgLDmzmjfQj3f_fLI/s3931/IMG_4792.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2687" data-original-width="3931" height="438" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4YtcAGmVjLZ7vGk39DzglJQdLxHzLENlYdUCqoI4KBtlyztPtr5l7Q7k5iKAWQIsrXQs8TCcUFa6LLmWNvMV1gSzoetty6_dUeidaXAvDFi2huR71j8_7U9YMAyLvYZPvrmGMiu3EGjmTRthmiDRdBqGjIAYJpU7L57oyDgWr_7OgLDmzmjfQj3f_fLI/w640-h438/IMG_4792.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p>We were still feeling pretty thrown by how much we liked the atmosphere and countryside of Cornwall, Devon and Yorkshire and had some hard thinking to do to decide between living in the frequent rain and damp with the short winter days of England and the sunny, mostly mild climate of Portugal.<br /></p><p>The tradeoff is pretty miserable. A place that you feel such a strong affinity with vs a place where the weather is mostly great and your life is calm and relaxed - but you are an alien and part of a group that is becoming increasingly problematic to the local population. </p><p>Of course there are plenty of other considerations - it is much more expensive in England and Portugal has this rough feel to it. Sections of any town or street are a little run down or crumbling and the open areas during the summer are mostly dirt, not grass - like in the Kalahari.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWg5Sc3_4_uXsI5tvjN5wU2pxUjoH4QzDBmr5Kj7nzmHLRa2DC2hwKzXXC2nluZTOx3sy9ZZofvLxaMvPaqmqysQOxQcOvkf9FMc5GaSv-3NZVDrMO6HfxeXEECnBc3OoCOYotHNmEArvRACttcKlb8MsXm5uqsW3xK5jvTpJTEgp683IzNef1knw2SXI/s7858/IMG_4828.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3856" data-original-width="7858" height="314" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWg5Sc3_4_uXsI5tvjN5wU2pxUjoH4QzDBmr5Kj7nzmHLRa2DC2hwKzXXC2nluZTOx3sy9ZZofvLxaMvPaqmqysQOxQcOvkf9FMc5GaSv-3NZVDrMO6HfxeXEECnBc3OoCOYotHNmEArvRACttcKlb8MsXm5uqsW3xK5jvTpJTEgp683IzNef1knw2SXI/w640-h314/IMG_4828.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A small river resort near the little town of Alte in the Algarve<br /></td></tr></tbody></table> <p></p><p>House prices have climbed in Portugal to a level that seems to defy us finding something comfortable to live in - there are plenty of ruins selling for the price we are looking for and good homes are quite a bit above our limit.</p><p></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzySWc6WZsMUvi6cw8gJQ2qk5HwTHj2KjiQpH57VuYHtT3CZaROeK6TM7hwghFGWUV7100qDJiY9SZ2FuzTxQvhNHlF7Bz76fN4sDycM1kQJA5yWb72CFg98tq3gU7W2P5rT83pt00GDvfgxyVg4l45npcS-Ow475csoXFpKZIJAknMd123e1YaKALLSo/s1740/Screenshot%202023-09-16%20at%205.31.07%20AM.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="908" data-original-width="1740" height="209" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzySWc6WZsMUvi6cw8gJQ2qk5HwTHj2KjiQpH57VuYHtT3CZaROeK6TM7hwghFGWUV7100qDJiY9SZ2FuzTxQvhNHlF7Bz76fN4sDycM1kQJA5yWb72CFg98tq3gU7W2P5rT83pt00GDvfgxyVg4l45npcS-Ow475csoXFpKZIJAknMd123e1YaKALLSo/w400-h209/Screenshot%202023-09-16%20at%205.31.07%20AM.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">on the market for 250 000 Euros<br /></td></tr></tbody></table>But we have started searching in earnest now, hoping to find an house that is an outlier - a gem or something that'll just do for us. We hover somewhere between despair that we'll never figure this out and cheerful optimism that we might. <p></p><p>Fortunately there are two of us and we tend to balance each other out. One of us might be in the doldrums and get dragged out by the winds of optimism of the other or visa versa.<br /></p><p>There is also plenty of paperwork and bureaucracy still ahead of us, the visa we are going to apply for requires that you have a property already or a 12 month rental in place. Unfortunately most owners are happy for their houses to be available only for holiday makers in the summers and there are very few long term rentals to be had - and a mob of people trying to get them. Even if we could persuade someone to rent to us they won't offer more that 6-8 months of rent when we actually need 12.</p><p>So the other option is to buy a house and then apply for the visa. We found someone very knowledgeable who could help with assessing and buying houses in the Algarve, who would work with us to try to get a good deal. He failed to impress though, having forgotten to mention, when he met us and persuaded us to stop communicating with other realtors, that he was leaving for two week's vacation the following day. We waited to get started on the project with him and after not hearing from him on the 2nd day after he had said he'd be back, it dawned on us that his enthusiasm didn't match ours. </p><p>I wonder if our budget is discouraging to someone like him - he stands to earn significantly less with a 2.5% commission on the much more expensive homes that are on the market in the Algarve.<br /></p><p> Working with realtors is the pits. You have to work with them with very little trust, knowing
that the bottom line for them is pretty mercenary. I imagine their
sales training is like: find out what they can afford, get a rough idea
of the characteristics of houses that they are looking for and then coax them to buy something about 20-30% more
expensive than their limit from your portfolio even if it isn't a fit.
Oh and also if they ask about any details that matter greatly to them
just give them a positive answer even if you know the answer is bad. Who else sells like this? I'm reminded of the father in the Roald Dahl book, "Matilda"</p><p><br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGoFC-DHbYkOmLW0dFToOCTjsQgN3mz5ijFmdUEc39L4K6pxmVskYmU6Er5hM1NYgu3EeufsR8ZYwlQPwEIjJqIdD1o-DaTNDqjNFPp_d-QL7m4CI2OjiHKid7AWKIOLFSSISWmXG1YshqGR43xHuJQppFfzk3aOTDG07UuYJIcDHQpUvLGLztO2LFfq0/s2374/Screenshot%202023-09-16%20at%205.34.34%20AM.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1084" data-original-width="2374" height="292" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGoFC-DHbYkOmLW0dFToOCTjsQgN3mz5ijFmdUEc39L4K6pxmVskYmU6Er5hM1NYgu3EeufsR8ZYwlQPwEIjJqIdD1o-DaTNDqjNFPp_d-QL7m4CI2OjiHKid7AWKIOLFSSISWmXG1YshqGR43xHuJQppFfzk3aOTDG07UuYJIcDHQpUvLGLztO2LFfq0/w640-h292/Screenshot%202023-09-16%20at%205.34.34%20AM.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Trying to organize our viewing schedule and summary of properties<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p>Our plan is to continue searching until the end of October. Anne is doing most of the work and we need to schedule viewings in the mornings outside of my normal working hours.</p><p>If we haven't found a house by November we will need to find some other way of proving that we have at least 12 months secured rental in Portugal so that when we return to America we can start the process of applying for the visa from there. It can take several months and even then, there are unknowns in terms of what documentation the embassy might require from us which might cause additional delays.</p><p>Our current AirBnb's have been in Faro and Olhão - they are pricey still because we are at the tail end of the summer season. Hopefully we'll be able to find something cheaper for October.</p><p>We took a ride last weekend in a solar powered boat in amongst the small barrier islands that separate the sea from the land near Olhão. </p><p>The wetlands formed by these barrier islands are home to a variety of bird species and it was a pleasure to motor around more or less silently and photograph some of the birds. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh774jFTtXc3bS9Sb7m4uRIhl9ngs8aU8pdKZh-pxwmAOJ0YjmQxrnWi3HzEVLXvky__oHB9NhZSrv4m0IMd6q6M0USic55mpX-7-ut2rviLalUanX2ahT7vZSfTJUAbP86MCWD9EpNoNbLgJx2blBbXYF1lMUVNYfgM4F3otxOPGfabmiWwkJlQuN0t0w/s4000/_TJB1871.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2667" data-original-width="4000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh774jFTtXc3bS9Sb7m4uRIhl9ngs8aU8pdKZh-pxwmAOJ0YjmQxrnWi3HzEVLXvky__oHB9NhZSrv4m0IMd6q6M0USic55mpX-7-ut2rviLalUanX2ahT7vZSfTJUAbP86MCWD9EpNoNbLgJx2blBbXYF1lMUVNYfgM4F3otxOPGfabmiWwkJlQuN0t0w/w640-h426/_TJB1871.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>Not far away from here are salt marshes that are an active sea salt mine and which attract a large number of flamingos at certain times of the year. We saw them in March in Tavira and will no doubt see them again if we can manage to get permission to stay here for longer than 90 days in each 180 day period (the current visa constraints for US and UK passport holders).<br /><p></p><p>The AirBnb in Olhão is right next to a nature reserve with a research station for sustainable fish farming where they are researching ways to replenish the dwindling fish population. We took a walk around the natural park. It is dry and warm and felt a lot like a walk in the veld near Kimberley. There are two blinds on the property - one looking across the salty wetlands and the other over a depleted fresh water vernal pond. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg26T4LqhsaUFFnIqbj3rKEA5ggBUO0p7OsTeZgsjI6gdsr1XHXiC5BGOvxZLwm5riheNr_HpfrDA9kicsDfODQZmDNDI5yb7-80BZ1-ppea6A_Qg_uzFRjSw8I3ndXyAlKSSUjqtVtv40jMq19sZkDnFdAhotCyzWJUi1KgAhXVJjx7Yogg8fOL1hXp9Y/s3603/_TJB1920.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2402" data-original-width="3603" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg26T4LqhsaUFFnIqbj3rKEA5ggBUO0p7OsTeZgsjI6gdsr1XHXiC5BGOvxZLwm5riheNr_HpfrDA9kicsDfODQZmDNDI5yb7-80BZ1-ppea6A_Qg_uzFRjSw8I3ndXyAlKSSUjqtVtv40jMq19sZkDnFdAhotCyzWJUi1KgAhXVJjx7Yogg8fOL1hXp9Y/w640-h426/_TJB1920.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /> I imagine in the winter during high tide and when it rains the bird-life would be closer to the blind.<p></p><p>Here's hoping we are back here in the winter with a temporary residence permit and who knows, maybe even a house?<br /></p><p> </p>Timhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12828578695145994984noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8344844421099848427.post-72731368519317661562023-08-06T12:06:00.004-07:002023-08-06T12:44:58.318-07:00Cornwall: It is usually much better than this<p>The AirBnb in Newlyn was a quaint house owned by an old lady who is in elder care. Her daughter is using it as an AirBnb to fund the costs of a private facility for her mom. As a result, the furniture, art and bookshelves are full of echoes of her mother's life. She was a scholar and probably a teacher because we found lots of poetry books and the collected works of classical authors and playwrights in her sitting room with a bay window.</p><p>The dining room table was the only desk available and the chairs were severely upright in a completely unforgiving design. By the third day of our stay I was suffering from cramps in my shoulders from sitting on the chairs with my laptop on the table, a few inches higher than my back could tolerate. I ended up having to spend most of my working hours on a couch with the laptop on my lap - less strain on my back but not ideal because I have become accustomed to using a small flat monitor alongside my laptop monitor to give me more screen space for work.</p><p>We weren't able to book her house for all the time we needed leading up to our first house-sit in the area but our host offered us another apartment AirBnb in a tiny place north of Penzance for a discount.</p><p>When we arrived there we immediately regretted not looking at the reviews of the place- we were lulled by how nice the house in Newlyn had been. Couched in polite paragraphs about it were a few warnings that we would have heeded had we read it.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRkhXUGlrmg5m5fF1DHaz_tqP8HXNcqxcfV8LV6MoQ3zUZpdfZpeIyoI6MPAAsTpK-77rqnn_mDhSg78QNID0QeRwVlXuRq_WhCGr-9-CcOHlx6MzM3ujLre4stOcUiIh1dwJia_dIzgV37TI4RR5Rohx2ujaLxp5XDxG47Tg18-9W5bZgsp-kI_u0ZBc/s4032/IMG_4596.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRkhXUGlrmg5m5fF1DHaz_tqP8HXNcqxcfV8LV6MoQ3zUZpdfZpeIyoI6MPAAsTpK-77rqnn_mDhSg78QNID0QeRwVlXuRq_WhCGr-9-CcOHlx6MzM3ujLre4stOcUiIh1dwJia_dIzgV37TI4RR5Rohx2ujaLxp5XDxG47Tg18-9W5bZgsp-kI_u0ZBc/w640-h480/IMG_4596.HEIC" width="640" /></a></div><p></p>The entrance to the AirBnb is around the side of a house on the property of a MOT garage (MOT is the shorthand for the annual road worthiness and emissions test in England) and the owner of the MOT clearly has had some run-ins with the AirBnb owner because we were warned not to park in front of or on the parking area for the garage.<br /><p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjv73o7aMmd0HurkO1dqOTQb2pF-fbt1ekSR-0mJ-leGFz9ksck6l-B8diyTse8UEknoYbUCf63J1u2HgVd_nmnfGo3bZCp1-_kRA0m5lPxkLord33G1Pd2Q6rNIZr25N2o5tk7Ujno_sXU9WSHDwhmjYiVullB3B6veSSEmu-IICTQd6k9ldESlIUXD-4/s4032/IMG_4598.HEIC" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjv73o7aMmd0HurkO1dqOTQb2pF-fbt1ekSR-0mJ-leGFz9ksck6l-B8diyTse8UEknoYbUCf63J1u2HgVd_nmnfGo3bZCp1-_kRA0m5lPxkLord33G1Pd2Q6rNIZr25N2o5tk7Ujno_sXU9WSHDwhmjYiVullB3B6veSSEmu-IICTQd6k9ldESlIUXD-4/w150-h200/IMG_4598.HEIC" width="150" /></a></div><p>From the garage parking lot we entered into a narrow lane and found a large, sunken single room which has a mezzanine built above the bathroom on one end and a narrow sitting room at the entrance. </p><p>There is a fridge but no stove or microwave which meant that we'd have to eat out. </p><p>The house is one of a few on a short, narrow Cornish farm road ending with the MOT and then farmland. We thought we'd walk to a restaurant on the first day and then saw that the route was 25min of walking along single-lane roads and decided we'd rather drive (which took 20 min). </p><p></p><p>We cursed the price of restaurant food and the host for thinking that someone would be happy with an AirBnb with nowhere to heat or cook food.<br /></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheQQUueJgsPt_MQ2PZeX7G3dM_dTylL0FUWXdOE8b7PcE84Uoz8UZC5Z1PIxSq6JWT16GqC-06w_AGh4KR9F58PhscArdAFy9BiAr8Biu5Iv4NQgrdbJ4rGTcEhbBoFAxFNxBMLOtxhqo7WiGnP9mTg2nRTH0O3cwfJDGlaVTi7NB9kKfOXKD1XdtBRCA/s4032/IMG_4597.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheQQUueJgsPt_MQ2PZeX7G3dM_dTylL0FUWXdOE8b7PcE84Uoz8UZC5Z1PIxSq6JWT16GqC-06w_AGh4KR9F58PhscArdAFy9BiAr8Biu5Iv4NQgrdbJ4rGTcEhbBoFAxFNxBMLOtxhqo7WiGnP9mTg2nRTH0O3cwfJDGlaVTi7NB9kKfOXKD1XdtBRCA/w640-h480/IMG_4597.HEIC" width="640" /></a></div><p>On the second day we decided to brave a walk along the single lane country road and noticed a woman crossing a stile - a small wooden structure that allows you to step over a fence - into the field and then across it and over a second stile. </p><p>We decided to follow her but when we came to the second stile we were confronted by a herd of attentive bullocks with a massive bull lying on the grass behind them as we got to the top of the first stile. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVl3hAoo25T3wJaMoEOzwGqdS44Jj2VJoIOmaYUo2ZEUP6S5CIDiJx0lmYc8TsBsmBfE6gVQQQA_GO5tVxsMoUw8xR4_cFVd1lFCYaRtM7bIO5zkbTx3Qrhe7L-DvFcfKAZHgAD612zJ9vpua6zowmXj0K7G0zci5li-oB3nbIYS6F-neg41yAtOTKlik/s4032/IMG_4601.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVl3hAoo25T3wJaMoEOzwGqdS44Jj2VJoIOmaYUo2ZEUP6S5CIDiJx0lmYc8TsBsmBfE6gVQQQA_GO5tVxsMoUw8xR4_cFVd1lFCYaRtM7bIO5zkbTx3Qrhe7L-DvFcfKAZHgAD612zJ9vpua6zowmXj0K7G0zci5li-oB3nbIYS6F-neg41yAtOTKlik/w640-h480/IMG_4601.HEIC" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p>We paused, looking at the bullocks, which only made them curious, so they all started to stand up and crowd towards us. For some reason Anne decided to sing to them at this point which had them even more interested, and then the bull stood up. The brave woman before us had simply climbed over and walked across this field without a pause, but we, the intrepid world travelers, were frozen on the spot and after a few breathless minutes and when Anne had finished her song, we retreated back the way we had come.</p><p>We had one trip on a morning to the town of St Ives which we had to abort because we couldn't find parking and had to make a second attempt the next day, this time parking in Penzance at the train station and catching a bus.</p><p>St Ives is a pretty town with a sheltered beach along which there are plenty of little shops selling Cornish Pasties and other street food. We stopped for an early lunch and heeded the warnings about the seagulls who love to steal food from absent minded eaters.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6gSu95h-ZqqZsgCm8KXY8Zml2RxA3opl4GQ0f5n5fL8QxTydDqWMOag4KVPwg6ZEqU6NNd09oGQ-tvShdQtL6calFRKAeRcmTmaB0JK1pNz-B3QXN2HNN3ZbMq_O4LyPkbqKPX6X7hufSjJyOp6D9aWw0yRN-nZAaL9-pfU44qU3znYvZGUImCD8hzYA/s9712/IMG_4602.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3890" data-original-width="9712" height="256" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6gSu95h-ZqqZsgCm8KXY8Zml2RxA3opl4GQ0f5n5fL8QxTydDqWMOag4KVPwg6ZEqU6NNd09oGQ-tvShdQtL6calFRKAeRcmTmaB0JK1pNz-B3QXN2HNN3ZbMq_O4LyPkbqKPX6X7hufSjJyOp6D9aWw0yRN-nZAaL9-pfU44qU3znYvZGUImCD8hzYA/w640-h256/IMG_4602.HEIC" width="640" /></a></div> <p></p><p>Halfway through eating my carefully shielded pasty I had a lapse in concentration and the next minute something hit my hand hard and knocked the pasty down onto the beach below the wall we were sitting on. A screeching colony of gulls followed, fighting over the prize.</p><p>I sat there flabbergasted and spent the rest of the time fuming, watching the human adults and children around me eating their pies and waiting breathlessly for one of them to fall victim to these thugs of the sea. Fifteen minutes later I gave up, thinking I must have been the only klutz there that day and bought another pasty which I ate out of the paper bag as we walked back to the bus-stop for our ride home.<br /></p><p>Our next stop was the start of a house-sit in a town called Camborne which is near the northwestern edge of Cornwall close to Newquay but a little further inland. Because the hosts of the house-sit were leaving early the next morning we had a night where we had to find accommodation and so we spent it in a small bar/hotel in the tiny seaside village of Portreath.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj21BYw9Sp2XevrnbmOcJQ_cc-R4T49rwsoIKYlSA2ZutIs0VFJE5nd09YjTLPM78vMT2IXyT8MIGePVoWkVm7x-Vznbe8-m8oM_oZXjw6potrOBdvPx_XZIOBg321io-lhGR_zC708iuHakNQB5ar83yZ2oe0gsxBU6WQxNV-nBxzeVDOkXSRGw0-y1aA/s8440/IMG_4609.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3960" data-original-width="8440" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj21BYw9Sp2XevrnbmOcJQ_cc-R4T49rwsoIKYlSA2ZutIs0VFJE5nd09YjTLPM78vMT2IXyT8MIGePVoWkVm7x-Vznbe8-m8oM_oZXjw6potrOBdvPx_XZIOBg321io-lhGR_zC708iuHakNQB5ar83yZ2oe0gsxBU6WQxNV-nBxzeVDOkXSRGw0-y1aA/w640-h300/IMG_4609.HEIC" width="640" /></a></div>Portreath is very small but has a strong community vibe with a mixture of houses and a rather nice beach - assuming you are willing to brave the weather. I think it is a sign of the climate that people are out at the beach in large numbers in cool wind and light drizzle as if <b>this </b>is the perfect weather for a day on the beach.<br /><p></p><p>On the way to Portreath we stopped at a monument to a mine owner who in the early 1800's had developed a reputation for fairness among the miners and their families - there were thousands of people who formed a funeral procession when he died and the town and miners collectively raised money for the monument. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSikxma4xL6y-sEulJIz4sPVTkcE3xah2NFJXnZl8gc8qHjN3JLoAsbAyrrA_r7g-Vuxsis2XT5be_k3I7Do7YprIPxUTB0Q8PdbeGVpamuJCAVT69XsOzvw0k4hEtKEN-El8K3mWz0DIOjVqHzstBF--oOnHMaJDaTUVDM6hVUAIDqZmCld8U9VoVUYI/s1024/WhatsApp%20Image%202023-08-05%20at%2005.12.26.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSikxma4xL6y-sEulJIz4sPVTkcE3xah2NFJXnZl8gc8qHjN3JLoAsbAyrrA_r7g-Vuxsis2XT5be_k3I7Do7YprIPxUTB0Q8PdbeGVpamuJCAVT69XsOzvw0k4hEtKEN-El8K3mWz0DIOjVqHzstBF--oOnHMaJDaTUVDM6hVUAIDqZmCld8U9VoVUYI/w640-h480/WhatsApp%20Image%202023-08-05%20at%2005.12.26.jpeg" width="640" /></a></div> <br />The monument itself was not really much to look at but nearby we found a castle-like structure built on a hill with a couple of large rocks supporting one corner of the building. It is operated today as a restaurant.<p></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqvbOvtATozCfJGXMZCzJj-PkVr2gHij-ZQt4vfRbw3jq-6cU9ZyHVgtvf6UAuqM0KqqLRJCVS4WQ09PLB9JlIEqHvNkGkUKcvA4raLNgCmA0iKAwGstoBXCHqTpDUrjzIL5CN4DakCj-F8T1pQB83-itihQ7ov_ahjaw1q48kHGRzh8tuJpLHyEHm_T8/s4032/IMG_4605.HEIC" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqvbOvtATozCfJGXMZCzJj-PkVr2gHij-ZQt4vfRbw3jq-6cU9ZyHVgtvf6UAuqM0KqqLRJCVS4WQ09PLB9JlIEqHvNkGkUKcvA4raLNgCmA0iKAwGstoBXCHqTpDUrjzIL5CN4DakCj-F8T1pQB83-itihQ7ov_ahjaw1q48kHGRzh8tuJpLHyEHm_T8/w640-h480/IMG_4605.HEIC" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Carn Brae castle<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br />The towns inland in Cornwall are a little more run-down. A <a href="https://www.cornwalllive.com/news/cornwall-news/damning-report-lays-bare-reality-7328141" target="_blank">report in 2022</a> identified many of Cornwall's districts as being in the top 10% of the most deprived in England. <br /><p></p><p>Our house-sit was in a housing estate in a respectable area on the outskirts of the town Camborne. It was a relief to be in a full sized house with a desk and office chair. </p><p>The animals in these house-sits are always a pleasure, in this case two dogs - one of which was crazy active, a small tortoise, an axolotl (an unusual little salamander from Central America) and a large aquarium of marine fish with a really sophisticated system for managing the water purification, temperature and lighting.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGCMBkpYt22y6OBN4KCxU1-Pq0V0MleqEv9e4sGpdFCT63CHF9BZUR_u4e6ZAZGKASiDt5gLOIk4YXcvmVkMWutHpzh8sWoLXHEK5RzsPHo1cfVdoy-oHrU1jzJaG48yhQisqLrPqQ9FE1vC1uVXUgbXHRS4eAMWmw_65vnamByha6QEVmYD_kn6zvv10/s4000/_TJB9244.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2667" data-original-width="4000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGCMBkpYt22y6OBN4KCxU1-Pq0V0MleqEv9e4sGpdFCT63CHF9BZUR_u4e6ZAZGKASiDt5gLOIk4YXcvmVkMWutHpzh8sWoLXHEK5RzsPHo1cfVdoy-oHrU1jzJaG48yhQisqLrPqQ9FE1vC1uVXUgbXHRS4eAMWmw_65vnamByha6QEVmYD_kn6zvv10/w640-h426/_TJB9244.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>True to form it continued to rain most days. We never trusted the look of the sky and took our raincoats everywhere. We needed them almost everywhere. <p></p><p>We were able to take morning trips before my work starts to two impressive locations within an hour of where we were staying - the first being<a href="https://www.edenproject.com/"> the Eden Project</a> - a project that was started in the late 1990s when a group of like-minded people bought an extensive open mined clay pit in Cornwall and converted it into a large garden and educational center with biosphere's containing plants from a wide variety of climate zones.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwp04VnjevDUAXB_hB1PWy7J_d3rdVYK1HPIdpYcqKcI__dNNuw2GpNbm2lVRhu24TxHDmFyyeVcUmBBzLS-y-WZ9nljfZgvVFEKUvNVQARVLEs4e_lBLRggmT2XvkaoxijIykfra0hrHmF5gtCHsm5QWwhjfdiY5nfnII1ABZa6blbudpjaDpH2L1WKU/s8122/IMG_4634.heic" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3800" data-original-width="8122" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwp04VnjevDUAXB_hB1PWy7J_d3rdVYK1HPIdpYcqKcI__dNNuw2GpNbm2lVRhu24TxHDmFyyeVcUmBBzLS-y-WZ9nljfZgvVFEKUvNVQARVLEs4e_lBLRggmT2XvkaoxijIykfra0hrHmF5gtCHsm5QWwhjfdiY5nfnII1ABZa6blbudpjaDpH2L1WKU/w640-h300/IMG_4634.heic" width="640" /></a></div><br />A partner of the Eden Project offers an exciting option while you are visiting, a zipline that spans across the project's biospheres. It is the longest and fastest zipline in the UK. There are also high wire obstacle courses that are adrenaline-driven entertainment. We didn't have time to try out the zipline so that one has been filed away for a future visit.<br /><br />Our second visit was to the <a href="https://www.heligan.com/explore-heligan/our-story/introduction/" target="_blank">Lost Gardens of Heligan</a>, the largest garden restoration project in Europe. Once a large estate that was mostly self-sufficient, growing almost all of the food needed for the family and their guests (and I'm assuming their staff), the farm was abandoned by the grieving owner during World War I after many staff who went to serve never returned. The grand house of the estate after being abandoned for 50 years was sold in 1970 but it wasn't until the aftermath of a hurricane in 1990 that events conspired to inspire the restoration.<p></p><p>A small room called the "Thunderbox Room" (a euphemism for a long-drop toilet) that was used by the gardeners was discovered during excavations with penciled inscriptions on the wall. These were signatures of the gardeners who worked there and had a date, August 1914. The toilet has been designated a war memorial in honor of their sacrifice during the war. When we visited it, there was a small swallow's nest in the eves of the toilet just inside the door. It was full of babies with a parent that was flitting in and out between the frequent visitors' comings and goings.<br /></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpcPzighIFFy0gadmLmPJ8upOmi3K-w1lRq2dvPL2N1ROnreEBLvVPD0630dfXbS3bh6OX2wbRvLVAvuqKxOgcFpcoaB445DJ7W7q1EOrrO0u-VaFxWlVYcjLlhRASFWbr1Qe1LoISJLlrYTpyb1kIsN3DU0o6r0PpV4RnfZkpDEkYcQS7Yo1Nd1m1LKk/s4000/_TJB9265.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2667" data-original-width="4000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpcPzighIFFy0gadmLmPJ8upOmi3K-w1lRq2dvPL2N1ROnreEBLvVPD0630dfXbS3bh6OX2wbRvLVAvuqKxOgcFpcoaB445DJ7W7q1EOrrO0u-VaFxWlVYcjLlhRASFWbr1Qe1LoISJLlrYTpyb1kIsN3DU0o6r0PpV4RnfZkpDEkYcQS7Yo1Nd1m1LKk/w640-h426/_TJB9265.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>The gardens are huge - with cultivated fields and extensive vegetable gardens, large playing areas for children and a wild section called the jungle with a rope bridge that is constantly full of the "10-at-a-time" visitors crossing from one side of a stream to the other. <br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_6t4UrmI8Iff5qto6d5hmKIKMBdXH4s3y3WYSIipsHQATF4RTiNTAh-k-BbDbjaOL9Kzn1CrW6VkR2-lF12anS2839g7nXJAsNhPCae8Saie3gAVfgN19L8L90NrT_huIGeYQ3pXeEgoghSCXPE1MknPWPsxIvzy6yPrwerWfkvyGcXg6ihOHtWHwDeM/s4000/_TJB9275.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2667" data-original-width="4000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_6t4UrmI8Iff5qto6d5hmKIKMBdXH4s3y3WYSIipsHQATF4RTiNTAh-k-BbDbjaOL9Kzn1CrW6VkR2-lF12anS2839g7nXJAsNhPCae8Saie3gAVfgN19L8L90NrT_huIGeYQ3pXeEgoghSCXPE1MknPWPsxIvzy6yPrwerWfkvyGcXg6ihOHtWHwDeM/w640-h426/_TJB9275.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p>I haven't mentioned this before, but Anne has two small containers that have accompanied us on our travels. In each are a portion of her parent's ashes that were given to her after they were cremated.</p><p>I've worried about them being confiscated by airport security who don't like "powder-like substances" at the best of times. Anne has done the research and these are on the list of permitted carry-on objects, but we have had things confiscated (like round nosed scissors) that prove that the list of permitted items are mere guidelines in the mind of the security officer regardless of what any airport regulation might say. Our closest call was evidence after one trip from Mexico to the USA that the small bags had been opened.</p><p>Anne has thought that she would scatter the ashes somewhere beautiful that her parents would have loved or where we end up settling but the final decision might be a while away. In the meantime we know that they would have loved the destinations that we have taken them to. <br /></p><p>We (the agnostic and the atheist) also have a small superstition: that our departed family members visit us occasionally. I suppose it is less of a literal thing than in moments when something profoundly moving reminds us of a lost parent.</p><p>For me it started on a weekend out in the wilds of the Cederberg having just got news of my mother's sudden death. We were hiking and came across a lone butterfly which sat on a bush on the edge of the trail for a long time as I stood there and watched it. I am still reminded of my mother in moments where I come across a lone butterfly like this.<br /></p><p>For Anne, it is the sight of an English robin - the little red breasted bird often seen in the bushes nearby on walks in England. It unfailingly prompts one of us to say to her "Hey! Here's your mom!".</p><p>Anne's father was a gardener. He loved working in his garden and experimenting with pruning and grafting plants and she had told me that her parents had visited this Lost Garden with her brother on one of their trips to England and had found it absolutely enchanting.</p><p>So, as we entered one of the vegetable gardens we saw this scarecrow with a little toy robin stitched to his shoulder and immediately concluded that these were her parents: the gardener and the robin. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihWuYofIvhos8cT3KCRpvS8yETcmXItRUegQEDysb4U66DSX4ClmL0byba0AlRuWeCnm4pts5ZC0VuOPEr6ptX0DGEr5SC7j_g2R1qRhDaort4j2xvL8vTlhxZN_7-TJNU6OzlrYoFUGCOJ7a5Tn5K6hqmBhaitpezfWA1-ksT8zdiXHdGB37Je1618c8/s4000/_TJB9263.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2667" data-original-width="4000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihWuYofIvhos8cT3KCRpvS8yETcmXItRUegQEDysb4U66DSX4ClmL0byba0AlRuWeCnm4pts5ZC0VuOPEr6ptX0DGEr5SC7j_g2R1qRhDaort4j2xvL8vTlhxZN_7-TJNU6OzlrYoFUGCOJ7a5Tn5K6hqmBhaitpezfWA1-ksT8zdiXHdGB37Je1618c8/w640-h426/_TJB9263.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>Anne hadn't thought to bring the little bags with us on our outing but we did talk about whether this would have been the perfect spot for them. I think Anne would secretly prefer to scatter them where we end up and not in some garden that we might not visit very often so she didn't think too long about whether this was the place she should have chosen.<p></p><p>We stopped for one night after our house-sit at a small hotel in Falmouth a short walk from the beach. The wifi did not reach our room so I had to sit in the bar for the day. It got a little noisy after 8pm with a number of chatty people who filled us in on the area. </p><p>Most of the people heard our complaint about the weather and said "It's usually much better than this", assuring us that there are many days of warm weather most years. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8RftazT5UWlp0vduwohkKfaGavuYBR_BjX2NFZOWyMXhofbujZTaDuSq12JippXEDnG2NA4_Wugy8eJ2LhOLhLTCLCHxejc_-72Af3AIhVB_mHlcAvNgJO2JzfNE4376NygZ0U0iBNCMi3clxAcsA6SMaUPoZ_N8b2TFBiECtrFf9UqUIcyiKzTFkxPE/s2048/WhatsApp%20Image%202023-08-03%20at%2014.24.00.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1686" data-original-width="2048" height="526" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8RftazT5UWlp0vduwohkKfaGavuYBR_BjX2NFZOWyMXhofbujZTaDuSq12JippXEDnG2NA4_Wugy8eJ2LhOLhLTCLCHxejc_-72Af3AIhVB_mHlcAvNgJO2JzfNE4376NygZ0U0iBNCMi3clxAcsA6SMaUPoZ_N8b2TFBiECtrFf9UqUIcyiKzTFkxPE/w640-h526/WhatsApp%20Image%202023-08-03%20at%2014.24.00.jpeg" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p>Our last stop in Cornwall is the small town of Roscastle which is 3mi away from Tintagel, the supposed birth place of King Arthur. The town is small with lots of stone walled houses and
buildings and our guest house is above a restaurant and bar called The
Riverside. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgib-mGbf23XwnRpw4hZxcLJ4os0FOkzOOuo7YbgJaEyksM-f3vL48yk0C4EwdSc-M_zZ4TD7GW-Ib8q7DQ4bnWPFTKqcCc60-_mq5vedAdRmF8STgFcG0WUpiSdr2u2PI1Q_OL0YOP1t5_VmN1R3YnIyiAqrLh11SGcSkQfe8yHmMo-VFZSCviwufkVlo/s4000/_TJB0194.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2667" data-original-width="4000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgib-mGbf23XwnRpw4hZxcLJ4os0FOkzOOuo7YbgJaEyksM-f3vL48yk0C4EwdSc-M_zZ4TD7GW-Ib8q7DQ4bnWPFTKqcCc60-_mq5vedAdRmF8STgFcG0WUpiSdr2u2PI1Q_OL0YOP1t5_VmN1R3YnIyiAqrLh11SGcSkQfe8yHmMo-VFZSCviwufkVlo/w640-h426/_TJB0194.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p>There are the ruins of a castle across a bridge to a wild rocky peninsula about 3mi away but they were closed on the Saturday of our visit due to the high winds of the first named tropical storm of the season which gave us pause because in 2004 there was a flash flood at around this time of year that tore through the town, flooding on both sides of The Riverside building and dragging parked cars out to sea. </p><p></p><p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgN0tOzYK8du8hOsmcPlrXsXUtlnvTHo8iFmo9lfRFiz28wAwiTR5s578d03wl9aYd-0z-UxLz91qWKowvNgmlwJ2n8QIRYl2nZA7ABY5KTgZrwuupTHPbf-MNTy-yQtStnu3zjHLmE_k9ph5wTGLXlO0kWAYsn4sMqhy24IwhgZZg3gxHqzQuuBk2rYSE/s4032/IMG_4678.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgN0tOzYK8du8hOsmcPlrXsXUtlnvTHo8iFmo9lfRFiz28wAwiTR5s578d03wl9aYd-0z-UxLz91qWKowvNgmlwJ2n8QIRYl2nZA7ABY5KTgZrwuupTHPbf-MNTy-yQtStnu3zjHLmE_k9ph5wTGLXlO0kWAYsn4sMqhy24IwhgZZg3gxHqzQuuBk2rYSE/w640-h480/IMG_4678.HEIC" width="640" /></a></div> <p></p><p>The harbor, another of these narrow natural inlets protected by
stone walls, is a short walk from the guest house with the South Western
trail clearly visible on either side as it arches into the town and
back out along the bottom of the hill.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPLENrOWWRnFZ0I27V_p8INB6JG7ZebnymT99CHOUsFU8RhV4zO1P2CCgcRHrY29_79y8-cYn1e-ooHSf6zRTb1HRpl_5aJ7EuInEa9FSPrgxrMRegIBwB_KU7utLxgKYJUYpwLWv7RP0gzDNQuuxdnRS_QUjyD-FfhgTdM-y53gIpdMg1o_vNgVK1Xb4/s4000/_TJB0006-2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2667" data-original-width="4000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPLENrOWWRnFZ0I27V_p8INB6JG7ZebnymT99CHOUsFU8RhV4zO1P2CCgcRHrY29_79y8-cYn1e-ooHSf6zRTb1HRpl_5aJ7EuInEa9FSPrgxrMRegIBwB_KU7utLxgKYJUYpwLWv7RP0gzDNQuuxdnRS_QUjyD-FfhgTdM-y53gIpdMg1o_vNgVK1Xb4/w640-h426/_TJB0006-2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p>Our last Sunday in Cornwall was sunny and clear and we have rebooked for a visit to Tintagel which was described as the birthplace of King Arthur in poetry as far back as the mid 1800's when Lord Tennyson in his poem Idylls of the King described this location. </p><p>The site is significant because it has evidence of settlements going back into the Dark Ages where it was a hub for trade. There is plenty of evidence of walls from the homes and storerooms from those long gone days but the town is geared now towards the legend.</p><p>On the hill of the ruins of the ancient castle (which is also associated with the legend of Tristan and Isolde) is a statue of King Arthur called "Gallo" which was commissioned by English Heritage and installed in 2016.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLbcZQ7w0bVqwTCoFeGEKdW0hwQRG0Jyi5pBP1TuxxX4NH163QtGgj_jfFF-FhuHLTNUd7CuMH37rSJcZMbpjo8S43wf8siMdbpClwB3U49WgKcsFHECZheKk-iJc9_fv-N_o4cVr8ptmckPcyTM4FEaMK_DWzO3aYdM93wRZ8zueEMAPpCBGNGRNfiV8/s1500/_TJB0278.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1500" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLbcZQ7w0bVqwTCoFeGEKdW0hwQRG0Jyi5pBP1TuxxX4NH163QtGgj_jfFF-FhuHLTNUd7CuMH37rSJcZMbpjo8S43wf8siMdbpClwB3U49WgKcsFHECZheKk-iJc9_fv-N_o4cVr8ptmckPcyTM4FEaMK_DWzO3aYdM93wRZ8zueEMAPpCBGNGRNfiV8/w640-h426/_TJB0278.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />At the bottom of the hill, a cave which is accessible at low tide is named after Merlin the magician and also mentioned in the narrative poems.<p></p><p>In the town itself is a great hall build by an English businessman who wanted to celebrate and honor the legend - it has many stained glass windows and is itself a draw of tourists. There is a modern "Honorable Society of the Knights of the Round Table" that is still active today - it was founded in 1720 and is an active charity for promoting the pursuit of the arts and also the scouts organization.</p><p>The Knights Templar is also an active organization today doing charitable work and they apparently come to this hall for meetings annually. A blogger <a href="https://thetemplarknight.com/2020/05/16/knights-templar-today/" target="_blank">describes the organization</a> but warns that there are some organizations who have co-opted the name to further hate messaging which, given their history in and after the crusades, might not surprise you.</p><p>From Tintagel we drove back to Plymouth, leaving the lovely Cornwall behind and leaving us with really mixed feelings about our plans.</p><p>Do we trade cool, windy summers and cold rainy winters for the sun and beaches in exchange for a place that we feel so comfortable in and where we know we'll find plenty to do?<br /></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7jz_tax3-5_dKv31rgHMSmfNGoz76ZmQE83FoALReh0r-9IRcHhx6yi_mntF4ymXrZ1P7G_IMkQQzC0NeGlFS1wRNQ4z15gEU22fZmAVMqMgLRgAsOc_6yG6NzQQnhPXSWWtFRMXhsrSXblGXQXR0sxFf-H9CQ8w4T6dzvLZ_ZUU_ru1qhiuWOjqtQ6s/s4032/IMG_4596.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a></div><br />Timhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12828578695145994984noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8344844421099848427.post-47976076928695082532023-07-24T09:00:00.002-07:002023-07-24T09:00:00.140-07:00Cornwall: there is a reason it is so green<p>I have a few friends who absolutely love New England winters. Often this is because they are passionate about winter sports and enjoy getting out on the ski slopes as soon as it is possible. Hiking in winter in New Hampshire is also an attraction.</p><p>I have something amiss with my circulation that makes my body decide to sacrifice my fingers and feet for survival in the cold and so, a few minutes into a hike I have to spend time coaxing the blood back into my numb fingers and toes. I think it is called Raynaud's phenomenon and it has made my winter hikes with friends less enjoyable than I would have liked.<br /></p><p>If you don't have some outdoor activity that you are passionate about, winters might be miserable. Anne and I would get out for walks every day that we could in the winter often on a windswept frigid beach.</p><p>If you ask people who don't have specific outdoor activities in winter which seasons they prefer they'd often explain a preference for cool weather because "you can always dress up for the cold". Its true that beyond a certain temperature the heat only has a few options for cooling down unless you have air-conditioning in the home.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjK9-FJdnSiran_v-iixLg1Jg5OpxX_aAKY_G2_wOclQhZs6BOoJ5TREfJYb6FrwXBQHBuhyEcG14vOZzihix560U9rR378YjfLDXGnEdB-l_WtvdUdNbloJylFfbwMjlbmwcLdzcECbB6RdlKYRpxRBH0EXyo1o7NS34pI_rrjFQRAfuHLYsGVjKUcSzA/s4032/IMG_4574.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjK9-FJdnSiran_v-iixLg1Jg5OpxX_aAKY_G2_wOclQhZs6BOoJ5TREfJYb6FrwXBQHBuhyEcG14vOZzihix560U9rR378YjfLDXGnEdB-l_WtvdUdNbloJylFfbwMjlbmwcLdzcECbB6RdlKYRpxRBH0EXyo1o7NS34pI_rrjFQRAfuHLYsGVjKUcSzA/w640-h480/IMG_4574.HEIC" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p>In Cornwall the climate is very moderate. The average day-time temperatures range from 9C (48F) in winter to 19C (66F) in summer - with some days that are outliers on either side of this. The rainfall charts show rain every month of the year with around double the amount in the winter months. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0-6MAWZesN75Q9fgAq6iMu7kEo6J6cowc6KUe3ELKQQkKhAEtef8wE-zCnXhjvKPxgnuBd_kmtzPWtx4QKIqs6Tv_KGrljXa3Gr4A7hUCRrF9Not13vupBIPjMgYD8KX6ac_C8beVrb8_maatwcgRpFbRvLQI71X3y3yptjCMv-ITc_bKSBtoaSyzKvk/s4000/_TJB8962.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2667" data-original-width="4000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0-6MAWZesN75Q9fgAq6iMu7kEo6J6cowc6KUe3ELKQQkKhAEtef8wE-zCnXhjvKPxgnuBd_kmtzPWtx4QKIqs6Tv_KGrljXa3Gr4A7hUCRrF9Not13vupBIPjMgYD8KX6ac_C8beVrb8_maatwcgRpFbRvLQI71X3y3yptjCMv-ITc_bKSBtoaSyzKvk/w640-h426/_TJB8962.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /> This means that if you like summers where you have a raincoat and a sweater in a backpack on most outings and you don't mind mud you are in the right place.<p></p><p>Even on the most beautiful days here there are clusters of clouds that momentarily block the sun and make you aware of how cool the breeze is.<br /></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJXtGF-jN_F_0fJx5ahPtqKYyxG6YaYHOOS6-3N0JMxtxExBBGGrC3eji_dcOlqwiYaQSzT5ouxQRDpyvvQvHRxRgRLxLqnHtAK45FWHKp2hbHOXreKi6gLRFuk1qlrEY-ABKPlOvXHqoJ4NMvKCepKRAqGqXF_w8Ly600BM2oEspiG2_HBzDXrLSRL6o/s4000/_TJB8957.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2667" data-original-width="4000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJXtGF-jN_F_0fJx5ahPtqKYyxG6YaYHOOS6-3N0JMxtxExBBGGrC3eji_dcOlqwiYaQSzT5ouxQRDpyvvQvHRxRgRLxLqnHtAK45FWHKp2hbHOXreKi6gLRFuk1qlrEY-ABKPlOvXHqoJ4NMvKCepKRAqGqXF_w8Ly600BM2oEspiG2_HBzDXrLSRL6o/w640-h426/_TJB8957.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>Funnily enough we have found ourselves playing devils' advocate with this because of how comfortable we feel here. It feels like a place we could settle into rather easily.<p></p><p>So I decided to do some research on how people might choose a place to retire and I came across<a href="https://alexisgrant.com/2020/01/06/how-to-decide-where-to-live/"> a blog written in 2020</a> where the author and her husband decided to use comparative data to help with their decision. I thought it might be illuminating because although the process of setting up the data is fairly subjective (choosing what matters to you in a place to live, deciding how much weight to give each category) at the end you have a list ordered based on how well a place stacks up to each category.</p><p>Anne is a little skeptical of the approach but is going along with it on the strength of my argument that we can adjust the criterion and their weights until we are comfortable that we have them right.</p><p>The thing is, that this area that we are falling in love with falls near the bottom of the list in the spreadsheet.<br /></p><p>We moved to Cornwall to a small town on the outskirts of Penzance, called Newlyn. The town is a big fishing town with a harbour with a tall reinforced wall and a small gap for boats to go out and return through. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm9qP08X_wSU5GR8I2tyJbdpqUpnQom6j7QLW_D0aJHRhyMtm9wpTStXCUgM2ExOtSktV5sbeIMDfvRuEC0J__tF-lw0NdrvkE5k7t1MUC2SMJMJzxr63-ID6vWyRtAJEPTJpdTt3q09hovu1qNkymFeukiNt9F3nEY-DWKRooA-hTJZysoBgoXbHl8ZM/s5733/IMG_4525.heic" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2022" data-original-width="5733" height="226" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm9qP08X_wSU5GR8I2tyJbdpqUpnQom6j7QLW_D0aJHRhyMtm9wpTStXCUgM2ExOtSktV5sbeIMDfvRuEC0J__tF-lw0NdrvkE5k7t1MUC2SMJMJzxr63-ID6vWyRtAJEPTJpdTt3q09hovu1qNkymFeukiNt9F3nEY-DWKRooA-hTJZysoBgoXbHl8ZM/w640-h226/IMG_4525.heic" width="640" /></a></div><br /> This seems somewhat characteristic of Cornwall . A mile and a half down the road (and a 30min walk on the South West Coastal path) is a famous town called Mousehole (pronounced Mouzel) with a similar harbor and a small opening out to the sea. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrdNH0Gc5ahoTtkWQhF2YgehNCokmwpz2gqLvrwiaF7u7pzM56RokEY7CHKTgcJCR_N-Ty4CcsiK6RPPf2K4-gliu2YuC4EEmZgczYoNx41PZPNIfW3iw0NI_RjSY6Ss0QmmrIXV0E_c_rer8XRMP0Rl3R_FJECC2NpE6EDLsABTvWS6hz9Z4wKeEirgs/s4000/_TJB8751_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2661" data-original-width="4000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrdNH0Gc5ahoTtkWQhF2YgehNCokmwpz2gqLvrwiaF7u7pzM56RokEY7CHKTgcJCR_N-Ty4CcsiK6RPPf2K4-gliu2YuC4EEmZgczYoNx41PZPNIfW3iw0NI_RjSY6Ss0QmmrIXV0E_c_rer8XRMP0Rl3R_FJECC2NpE6EDLsABTvWS6hz9Z4wKeEirgs/w640-h426/_TJB8751_HDR.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>When we visited the tide was very low but I imaging during high tide when there is a storm the harbor would be a safe refuge for boats. <p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipXIhqj51O9l3lsHpe5bG1Qxusf1TQt-lICxGxwL6xUhq906aneB2ZV0XAfcF3QGCWfS6l1J0YOB4YCr3_-mzEwZqko0NuqHcpfc6_C31VudY0d5DxDMCZ7zNbEQ6uG3ArU_nfXpupfnDIC59LfQudRPi-nDhSdE0xjMHHRGaiWmoLPao6imboKuahZUg/s4000/_TJB8742.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2667" data-original-width="4000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipXIhqj51O9l3lsHpe5bG1Qxusf1TQt-lICxGxwL6xUhq906aneB2ZV0XAfcF3QGCWfS6l1J0YOB4YCr3_-mzEwZqko0NuqHcpfc6_C31VudY0d5DxDMCZ7zNbEQ6uG3ArU_nfXpupfnDIC59LfQudRPi-nDhSdE0xjMHHRGaiWmoLPao6imboKuahZUg/w640-h426/_TJB8742.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>The village has narrow, quaint streets and a few restaurants. We heard that it comes to life in summer and that so many of the houses are holiday rentals that the town is incredibly quiet in the winter. This is possibly the case with quite a few of these small coastal towns.<p></p><p>A small town called Marazion also on the outskirts of Penzance has a castle-like edifice called St Michael's Mount which has been there first as a priory between 800AD and 1100. The castle dates back to the 12th Century. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBJsBgJiPvoCnmdylDi75tFQaNlI7xJ1jA1iAfoA3jt04zOvpSRmKCl6kVh-J_SH4-tt6jQzSov7QQ8AoCMU9CcUbVjyLAjpmOwRmQLJnTUkIP1hO6r1LobafrFn4NHdgSpKohE5CBmtyOx4NuR_wuR-fO-thAxga0XiEjYTRTIrApE2x1ZLTQb4rsyHo/s4000/_TJB8770.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2667" data-original-width="4000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBJsBgJiPvoCnmdylDi75tFQaNlI7xJ1jA1iAfoA3jt04zOvpSRmKCl6kVh-J_SH4-tt6jQzSov7QQ8AoCMU9CcUbVjyLAjpmOwRmQLJnTUkIP1hO6r1LobafrFn4NHdgSpKohE5CBmtyOx4NuR_wuR-fO-thAxga0XiEjYTRTIrApE2x1ZLTQb4rsyHo/w640-h426/_TJB8770.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p>The mount is a small island separated from the coastline of Penzance by a narrow channel which can be walked across at low tide and is a few feet deep at high tide. The island and castle are owned by a family who bought it in 1640 it from a long line of nobles. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhntJnIhfb8GGwdyKgpd5B80htKxK2aap40eBxVxr3FC-nCePDquGt9bbIzvZ6lDm9nDhJsIop_Is0zGYNA6TYbX3y3RNLg0Vq5I7AzHVZ1K-3dr4QqYcYsosBJhe2zhID2cbA5MzYm_inVSuxYn7Rkcv9ZATsCTM0PEZaKjbvTl8Rpj75vuk51POylkKE/s4000/_TJB8858.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2667" data-original-width="4000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhntJnIhfb8GGwdyKgpd5B80htKxK2aap40eBxVxr3FC-nCePDquGt9bbIzvZ6lDm9nDhJsIop_Is0zGYNA6TYbX3y3RNLg0Vq5I7AzHVZ1K-3dr4QqYcYsosBJhe2zhID2cbA5MzYm_inVSuxYn7Rkcv9ZATsCTM0PEZaKjbvTl8Rpj75vuk51POylkKE/w640-h426/_TJB8858.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />Today the family still lives on the island along with a few other families who work there. There is a National Trust that, in partnership with the family, manages the upkeep of the castle as a tourist attraction.<p></p><p>We visited the mount on one of the few beautiful sunny days we had during the first week in this area.</p><p>Not far from Newlyn in the opposite direction is Land's End, which is the southwestern edge of England. <br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBpVSP47abaKqG0wte8w00SRhr0BVe6-xRTtrr1ycTyYUxp767QDTvniCEKyulk11OF8Qrr1zILTF7zZAQujdoy9YspGlVA-qSjYbf_b15EGmGA92VzMAs2IjgB5G_q2W6ZCVsyIfJF4qjULSpRfNjVLnlGZVxuK_jVyM3hXoQy1r4Vrncn-xK90vfP_A/s4000/_TJB8883.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2667" data-original-width="4000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBpVSP47abaKqG0wte8w00SRhr0BVe6-xRTtrr1ycTyYUxp767QDTvniCEKyulk11OF8Qrr1zILTF7zZAQujdoy9YspGlVA-qSjYbf_b15EGmGA92VzMAs2IjgB5G_q2W6ZCVsyIfJF4qjULSpRfNjVLnlGZVxuK_jVyM3hXoQy1r4Vrncn-xK90vfP_A/w640-h426/_TJB8883.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /> We took a drive there one morning and had a short walk along the cliffs on the South Western Coastal trail. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKGRKJm6EsVF_7S3U-825b4LTpRzIUw2IzvQns86LZNaAaDurdA16RpI6pcHv9J-rf2j59ezXMoPCpQ21WsM-o7a0Afa-xw2RZZogpK9CUlLTRHXab6wepcGszIJeh2TY_TeCvbYt2S4ZF8iBU4BFJaShAipGRdOSh77pfC0h5JudccWlKhUY1hp6WIIM/s4000/_TJB8897.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2667" data-original-width="4000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKGRKJm6EsVF_7S3U-825b4LTpRzIUw2IzvQns86LZNaAaDurdA16RpI6pcHv9J-rf2j59ezXMoPCpQ21WsM-o7a0Afa-xw2RZZogpK9CUlLTRHXab6wepcGszIJeh2TY_TeCvbYt2S4ZF8iBU4BFJaShAipGRdOSh77pfC0h5JudccWlKhUY1hp6WIIM/w640-h426/_TJB8897.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /> The seas are very clear here and there are impressive sea cliffs and beautiful wildflowers. No trees grow here on the edge of the country, apparently because of the winds that sweep across from the Atlantic.<p></p><p>On the way to Land's End is a turnoff to an open air theater that Anne went to for a mid-week afternoon performance of Shakespeare's Twelfth Night. </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFDZZHYbfJe3jekm0pqAhnDUJKwm7vDNuyaR9uemz9D5SQbOutJY9-CVG7FyPO3KqEH-siPzXCMbiR2t7p3pS3ZpwhQrA4gYsE31CWRbA7Wyf2KB-Xj2FfoURNld3iVno3_Z6c6vrv6S2p2MlKWqo36aR6d1JCOhjeB4Ys--iYMVYkodu4EcZHWLnnxfg/s1024/WhatsApp%20Image%202023-07-24%20at%2010.11.38.jpeg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFDZZHYbfJe3jekm0pqAhnDUJKwm7vDNuyaR9uemz9D5SQbOutJY9-CVG7FyPO3KqEH-siPzXCMbiR2t7p3pS3ZpwhQrA4gYsE31CWRbA7Wyf2KB-Xj2FfoURNld3iVno3_Z6c6vrv6S2p2MlKWqo36aR6d1JCOhjeB4Ys--iYMVYkodu4EcZHWLnnxfg/w640-h480/WhatsApp%20Image%202023-07-24%20at%2010.11.38.jpeg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Anne's photo of the theater<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br />The theater was built by a woman who came to Cornwall after the first World War. She bought the entire cliff head for 100 GBP, built a cottage near the cliff and offered one summer to allow players in her theater group to stage a play on the edge of the cliffs below her home. With the help of her gardener she made a stage and some rough seating. Over the years that followed and with the help of others in her theater group the theater seating and stage were improved. She continued working on the theater well into her 80s. She died aged 90 in 1983. <p></p><p>I took a bus-ride with Anne the following day to see the beach and hike up to the top of the cliff and along the Coastal Path some distance. We walked to a point where we could see the open air theater.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSKtq4YOpE4axt1gqPRbLKj9bc_-dJaKDc5qXqK7pxFtV3Whngd5yINgW5xv2mZSpUbB-sgFYsObIXFKXNutP-Vpm63wcw0KEWdlAAoimr4QgreMbqS69BnAmsWux89gp-04PttzH835xvw6iBxyS2NUbcYk1c__z8YIaaYnuVq6PZqq6C-FKFOjmj0Hc/s4000/_TJB8928.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2667" data-original-width="4000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSKtq4YOpE4axt1gqPRbLKj9bc_-dJaKDc5qXqK7pxFtV3Whngd5yINgW5xv2mZSpUbB-sgFYsObIXFKXNutP-Vpm63wcw0KEWdlAAoimr4QgreMbqS69BnAmsWux89gp-04PttzH835xvw6iBxyS2NUbcYk1c__z8YIaaYnuVq6PZqq6C-FKFOjmj0Hc/w640-h426/_TJB8928.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p>This really is a beautiful area despite the constant cool breezes and uncertainty about rain.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHbuaVCWF6FwVgq3IvB6V2VsEuXFvIQURr35wjpKkXUATUyQYhBS3p0tW1VC-ncc9MWl_FGoTqrGjoeKSjLDArH2bhqkohlhVkNuBiOPlakaWQ92Ei4TY4NqshIDki-KVLBfSfCxdnieBnBg_Tez8I04fPHclNYQZ8Ive-c7nBgCSRx1GVLSO7th2bXXk/s2868/IMG_4559.heic" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2151" data-original-width="2868" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHbuaVCWF6FwVgq3IvB6V2VsEuXFvIQURr35wjpKkXUATUyQYhBS3p0tW1VC-ncc9MWl_FGoTqrGjoeKSjLDArH2bhqkohlhVkNuBiOPlakaWQ92Ei4TY4NqshIDki-KVLBfSfCxdnieBnBg_Tez8I04fPHclNYQZ8Ive-c7nBgCSRx1GVLSO7th2bXXk/w640-h480/IMG_4559.heic" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p>On our final weekend in Newlyn we drove to Lizard point which is the southmost piece of land in England. We did a 7mile loop from the town of Lizard along the Coastal Path and then across the land inland to complete the loop. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi2_9LJjPrttX7rjYfluDbBfzc9le2fBuNrs38fHV0mJgit6lMtTQZof70icgUnwmiEClfl51qLKwvqqzA3P-css0SSYF00rWzvEr68jTXuCtPPr9LpN-2YMpTZXVKKl_41ax58wagLfbEFrNaQIzPwnzLu8tyZ_8m_cnTrG54XV6yxYxFUyeJzw8VsTs/s4000/_TJB8959.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1649" data-original-width="4000" height="264" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi2_9LJjPrttX7rjYfluDbBfzc9le2fBuNrs38fHV0mJgit6lMtTQZof70icgUnwmiEClfl51qLKwvqqzA3P-css0SSYF00rWzvEr68jTXuCtPPr9LpN-2YMpTZXVKKl_41ax58wagLfbEFrNaQIzPwnzLu8tyZ_8m_cnTrG54XV6yxYxFUyeJzw8VsTs/w640-h264/_TJB8959.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p>Our next stop is a small town on the other side of Penzance for a week before we move on to a couple of house-sits we have lined up elsewhere in Cornwall.<br /></p>Timhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12828578695145994984noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8344844421099848427.post-66974880000823024872023-07-17T07:37:00.003-07:002023-07-17T14:59:35.433-07:00Devon: Jam first, or cream?<!-- Google tag (gtag.js) -->
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<p>Our trip to Cornwall was eventful and we ended up having to make a last minute change which put us in a picturesque village in Devon instead of in the one we'd planned in Cornwall.</p><p>We had a train trip booked on the railroad that travels between Paddington Station in London and Penzance (which I realized is a real town and not just a place with pirates in an old musical).</p><p>You can reserve seats on the train but the online booking guide doesn't give you a very clear idea of where the seats are in relation to windows and so we arrived at our coach to find out (much to Anne's horror) that we were all the way in the rear of the coach with no window. After a few moments in the coach we were told that the coach letter C (electronic boards on the outside announce a letter matching your ticket) had been switched and we needed to move to the 3rd last coach on the train.</p><p>After we left the station I went looking for a bathroom and discovered some seats with a table that were marked as reserved from London to Penzance and were unoccupied. We assumed that the people who had booked those seats were no-shows for the trip and that we'd probably not be challenged if we sat there and so we had a desk for me to do some work on and a big wide window with a view of the countryside for Anne.<br /></p><p>The trip between London and Plymouth (which is where we were getting off) is just over 3 hours (around 4 hours by car) but our AirBnb was booked in Downderry which is across from Plymouth in a ferry and then about a 20 min drive.</p><p>All of the car rental places in Plymouth are closed on Sundays so we
planned to get to our AirBnb with public transport and then come back to Plymouth on Monday to get a rental car for the rest of our time in the
South West. <br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYylcBdeZOVsoxOdLezlN_KVhCTS-OkI85aUUEjdRN02WHJTadU7cf-YNDQWlpDnHH4Q-POokFUyq_e8UMMaQQaPgBwkUpUB5eUqYCJQVx_ER3nAfPcSdaMXlv8bh5jTSNbDIchEJjJAB8rrq_SodzNTbX-Kvprn24nLgrIr-2OwuKRGvBKWxgSOgSXU0/s2096/Screenshot%202023-07-16%20at%2012.59.19%20PM.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1382" data-original-width="2096" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYylcBdeZOVsoxOdLezlN_KVhCTS-OkI85aUUEjdRN02WHJTadU7cf-YNDQWlpDnHH4Q-POokFUyq_e8UMMaQQaPgBwkUpUB5eUqYCJQVx_ER3nAfPcSdaMXlv8bh5jTSNbDIchEJjJAB8rrq_SodzNTbX-Kvprn24nLgrIr-2OwuKRGvBKWxgSOgSXU0/w640-h422/Screenshot%202023-07-16%20at%2012.59.19%20PM.jpg" width="640" /></a> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">We arrived at Plymouth Station at about noon and made our way to a bus stop where we were told we'd be better off getting a taxi to the ferry. The taxi fare wasn't too expensive and we were dropped at the entrance to the ramp of the ferry within a few minutes of hailing a cab at the train station.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The ferry to Torpoint (the first Cornish town across from Plymouth) is free for pedestrians in both directions and free for cars entering Cornwall - you pay to leave. <br /></div><p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbAfGQAkdxSI6OgMJXu5b6Hi09Q6usIGy8VqRBugB25mmgPBlMI5nqcNxHuQLzIbggCwrkOybKlbYKwoqchejCtaXhJP4aRhunsvWQEc-1wnIh9vsGmEpE9E6zwgwoKaeCR5oEawwQ0IQ1CruDxd1gzqUU2HeMhOSnXtM-tpM083ITA7h8Wc79m7yDF-8/s2038/IMG_5825.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1163" data-original-width="2038" height="366" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbAfGQAkdxSI6OgMJXu5b6Hi09Q6usIGy8VqRBugB25mmgPBlMI5nqcNxHuQLzIbggCwrkOybKlbYKwoqchejCtaXhJP4aRhunsvWQEc-1wnIh9vsGmEpE9E6zwgwoKaeCR5oEawwQ0IQ1CruDxd1gzqUU2HeMhOSnXtM-tpM083ITA7h8Wc79m7yDF-8/w640-h366/IMG_5825.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />It started to rain as the ferry crossed the bay and when we got off I suggested that we go up to the pub at the top of the hill for some food.<p></p><p>As we went in with our two bags of luggage each, all eyes turned towards us and the bar fell silent. One of the patrons called out to us: "Are you looking for food?" - we said we were and he told us that there weren't any places around there that sold food, but we could go to a restaurant about 15min walk away but it would be closed in about an hour. </p><p>I suggested to Anne that we get a pint of beer each and try to figure out what to do next. It gave us a chance to catch our breath before we headed out to see if we could make it to the restaurant in time for a sandwich or something.</p><p>At the bus-stop on the way to the restaurant we discovered that the bus which the AirBnb host had said we
should use didn't run on a Sunday. It was raining but we figured we
could make our way over to the restaurant in our raincoats hopefully without getting too wet. This turn of events was starting to worry me - we were more or less stranded with no good way to get to our AirBnb.<br /></p><p>We arrived just after they had closed but the chef told us there was a pub a little down the road from them and she'd be happy to give us a ride. We were pretty conspicuous with our luggage and I guess she took pity on us looking bedraggled and a little lost. On the way she tried to call a taxi to get us to Downderry and when she couldn't, she said she'd give us her number and we could call her after lunch and she'd take us to our AirBnb.</p><p>At the pub we found a table and ordered the traditional Sunday pub lunch which is a big roast. They had an option for Anne which was a nut roast. </p><p>Anne discovered that her phone was missing while we were waiting to be fed and after sending a text message to the chef she showed up with her partner who handed over the phone - it had slipped out of Anne's pocket onto the floor of their car!</p><p>We were really touched by the kindness they showed to complete strangers and I was determined not to bother them any further with a ride to Downderry so we asked our waiter if he knew of a cab company we could call.</p><p>An hour later we were in a cab heading to Downderry. The roads are like those you see in the BBC crime series set in small villages with a parish priest who solves murders. The are incredibly narrow with broad, tall hedgerows on each side. Cars approaching each other on the road have to do this delicate dance where they look for a small amount of space in a hedge so that one of them can partially pull over to make space for the other car before they come head to head. The cab driver said that you need to be good at reversing to drive on these roads. I suppose it is often that you have to back up when no gaps are to be found. We saw quite a few cars passing in this way and there doesn't seem to be a specific etiquette - I suspect both drivers start looking and the first one to spot a place to pull over does so and the other lifts a hand in thanks.<br /></p><p>In England the postal codes are accurate enough to get you to a single house or apartment. All we had for this AirBnb was a postal code so when the taxi dropped us off I assumed we were directly outside of the house. We weren't.<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXmXaXrAX2rJCDCzpPkzIRd0ufU6rg6b07Y0FkQkiLLH595e3EKZRKU4zebH2txi9e4hgaGnOXEHN47OKSG1hbelPC3zDoINhKhPRhB9pF5j6cYhd-RLEGuyPo-RptK9CNgQFGGAQ9zfse-lyZvUUrKO4hrOFEXWgzbolSf6l3Em26317wnxV8OqA0xqg/s4032/IMG_4482.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXmXaXrAX2rJCDCzpPkzIRd0ufU6rg6b07Y0FkQkiLLH595e3EKZRKU4zebH2txi9e4hgaGnOXEHN47OKSG1hbelPC3zDoINhKhPRhB9pF5j6cYhd-RLEGuyPo-RptK9CNgQFGGAQ9zfse-lyZvUUrKO4hrOFEXWgzbolSf6l3Em26317wnxV8OqA0xqg/w640-h480/IMG_4482.HEIC" width="640" /></a></div><br />I plugged the postal code into Google maps and we walked down the road a bit and up a massive flight of stairs to the AirBnb. The apartment is a shipping container converted into two rooms and a bathroom.<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVUitVgsjbH16eX8TbmxxuxqwVEib5g4Tcs6nGe7zHrb9EkgUlHuGosTlPhlMdGRk5bh90PvqzYK5MzLwA_VEBj8lKlnkNjFHX0bLYXPicgD_98eKhtOP1yP2z9twNe8nRxwOTp0egPrvVbF5Fw-XQNgUkDHH2cCBXDL1A2alL1GFH6xRnL_df5Y_2jRQ/s3840/2DF83500-4E6F-438A-B694-2AB49CD65C66.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2160" data-original-width="3840" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVUitVgsjbH16eX8TbmxxuxqwVEib5g4Tcs6nGe7zHrb9EkgUlHuGosTlPhlMdGRk5bh90PvqzYK5MzLwA_VEBj8lKlnkNjFHX0bLYXPicgD_98eKhtOP1yP2z9twNe8nRxwOTp0egPrvVbF5Fw-XQNgUkDHH2cCBXDL1A2alL1GFH6xRnL_df5Y_2jRQ/w640-h360/2DF83500-4E6F-438A-B694-2AB49CD65C66.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><p>The view from the top was amazing but our excitement was short-lived because when I set up my computer I was seeing massive data loss to common sites (around 80% packet loss) and live voice/video calls were impossible.</p><p style="text-align: left;"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2316" data-original-width="3088" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgegcLLfLeWjVmqYz7N7bXdvHP3zzd6fYj9FLaxrehhUxY-wSfkiozG92BvMJYVcyv83phgywH4Jf92veumVGN5rgfoHNzlccb9tKzSaHVa31hosLqSm8SLJ14RhRCrjomhCYJoDjB8RyY_8pCPmqlV6GZVJylUFKKSciaqJ_uPSZZJOThlKj9ZY2iDok0/s320/IMG_4484.HEIC" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="320" /></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p></p><p>I had some trouble communicating this with the owner. When the household mostly uses the internet for web browsing, social media and for streaming movies the software is pretty good at buffering to minimize the effects of intermittent loss of data so they might not even be aware of the problems.</p><p>In this case we were told it had been fine for other visitors some of whom had worked there before. They offered to reset the router in their house down the hill and we could reset it at the top afterwards. They were using an extender to get their internet access up to the shipping container on the hill.</p><p>I realized after everything was reset with no sign of improvement that we would have to find somewhere else to stay before my work started the next day at 2pm.</p><p>We found another AirBnb in a small town in Devon on the other side of Plymouth and we took the bus ride in the morning after arranging to get reimbursed for all but the one night. </p><p>We almost missed the bus because we were about 2min walk from the bus stop when it drove past us. The driver noticed our luggage and my alarmed expression when he drove past and he stopped the bus at the next corner for us to catch up and get in.<br /></p><p>Considering that two cars coming towards each other have trouble, the bus makes for an even more interesting ride. I told the driver at the end that he deserves danger pay!<br /></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGhi9XtRA2LsEIzfx2qMtTZfUis81blrMyhQKiKF1908erQLTwd7FOih2QxNqm7R8YzNPKaTxIgc_RmTJ08Ys659gezBYix8ZHGRppBLpM23k3S58Gk6CmNuEfw9nlSKZJayQIM_A0a8FajpPO5uEn2JcpqrYfzkO0NKqv3EpoLTjbc4NDfsgz9lTCONU/s4032/IMG_4495.heic" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGhi9XtRA2LsEIzfx2qMtTZfUis81blrMyhQKiKF1908erQLTwd7FOih2QxNqm7R8YzNPKaTxIgc_RmTJ08Ys659gezBYix8ZHGRppBLpM23k3S58Gk6CmNuEfw9nlSKZJayQIM_A0a8FajpPO5uEn2JcpqrYfzkO0NKqv3EpoLTjbc4NDfsgz9lTCONU/w640-h480/IMG_4495.heic" width="640" /></a></div><br />Our stop in Plymouth to pick up the car was illuminating. A bus driver at the ferry stop was kind enough to offer us a ride up the hill free of charge to get to the correct bus stop for where we needed to go. This was the third act of kindness from strangers since we'd arrived over here (4th I suppose if you count the man in the bar who told us where to find food)!<br /><p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj-qqS_uUavOCLmetRy3JCtznxS2Mj-QnrK52mKoQXo5z8gr2HzVdvz5e6ojEEQqC9aO4CwLjM4yO5d3t0RqoYaL2jSnxWZnLNgCuXbQaOfySn_Vvs8_QdmOl-oMq_YR7yL4sauyz1feGekj7jJuWOYXCO9CWbrWRIVDBdsoNZ2MEDJmN22ae3SO4ziFQ/s4032/IMG_4496.HEIC" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj-qqS_uUavOCLmetRy3JCtznxS2Mj-QnrK52mKoQXo5z8gr2HzVdvz5e6ojEEQqC9aO4CwLjM4yO5d3t0RqoYaL2jSnxWZnLNgCuXbQaOfySn_Vvs8_QdmOl-oMq_YR7yL4sauyz1feGekj7jJuWOYXCO9CWbrWRIVDBdsoNZ2MEDJmN22ae3SO4ziFQ/s320/IMG_4496.HEIC" width="320" /></a></div>It was raining for much of the time we spent in Plymouth. The area we
stopped in for coffee was marked on the map as an area of greenery but
the closest it gets are the trees growing in the middle of the
concrete paving.<p></p><p></p><p>Once we had our car we made our way on a 2 hour drive to the small town of Brixham in Devon in the area called Torbay.<br /></p><p>I was interested in how the people of Devon and the Cornish get on and it turns out there are a few details to their rivalry although these are mostly described as light-hearted. The most well known is whether you put the jam on your scone before the clotted cream or the other way around. It turns out that Anne and I disagree on this point which surprised me. I can't imagine how you spread jam on top of cream! </p><p>One morning we stopped at a coffee shop full of memorabilia from a passenger steam ship line (Cunard) that used to ferry mail and passengers internationally in the 1950s-60s. As of 2022 they are the only shipping company still offering a passenger service between Europe and the USA<br /></p><p>We ordered a cream tea for 2 and one of us put the jam and cream on the scone in the correct order.</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg2alVKGgxhvXxWznmOnQilwRXM1YRcmgttWG3nIir4XVXpkn_esSo3q8OMm444IZE3Q4Pu7Du38x2mXa4D9zLIEx57PkQzLEoeL04iIRk6m1_8ZpjB4dDHjd70QjAGAWhfXulsqCFW2aBIxMT47gNNF70jRE53tScFt_yE1DKGJW9a_eTrRUVq9K4DNc/s4032/IMG_4517.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg2alVKGgxhvXxWznmOnQilwRXM1YRcmgttWG3nIir4XVXpkn_esSo3q8OMm444IZE3Q4Pu7Du38x2mXa4D9zLIEx57PkQzLEoeL04iIRk6m1_8ZpjB4dDHjd70QjAGAWhfXulsqCFW2aBIxMT47gNNF70jRE53tScFt_yE1DKGJW9a_eTrRUVq9K4DNc/w640-h480/IMG_4517.HEIC" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p>The town of Brixham is a quaint fishing town enclosing a small harbor.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9vyBHdX5U9e6GGS6XDo3qfJpsVqTPTi8DFNkKWEBBCXssYIz5ZdA3t2KQYW0alvEW3Kbp8ND15jvij4upZYYUQToAwxZCbHUPduNVWhx9LLyTu4IrlUaPQuYvHuaU7Ok-eb1ZqK4_6HbqExPGxkhAhYoyXLWNmVEQk1MOYmTkLj8dI7oAgYE39oUz59w/s6618/IMG_4502.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3910" data-original-width="6618" height="378" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9vyBHdX5U9e6GGS6XDo3qfJpsVqTPTi8DFNkKWEBBCXssYIz5ZdA3t2KQYW0alvEW3Kbp8ND15jvij4upZYYUQToAwxZCbHUPduNVWhx9LLyTu4IrlUaPQuYvHuaU7Ok-eb1ZqK4_6HbqExPGxkhAhYoyXLWNmVEQk1MOYmTkLj8dI7oAgYE39oUz59w/w640-h378/IMG_4502.HEIC" width="640" /></a></div><p>We were able to go for a few walks around the town which has some obviously tourist-oriented shops.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge9UjLQN6uoI371I7QPan2072UXlf_4R9r-JXdnbd_eDaCjNwZBVaz0EsfiX9ZBmhGJDib86kad5sQHvhLVcU7EuuWmzUVNYyrAgkTWY_yUPnULdOZrZa5bTLYX8kQs56-49oFtkM_PeoxLlebLQgPNcx7oUstav7s5ZWDFtyFjeexO8AeDPxQlQG1NhY/s4032/IMG_4516.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge9UjLQN6uoI371I7QPan2072UXlf_4R9r-JXdnbd_eDaCjNwZBVaz0EsfiX9ZBmhGJDib86kad5sQHvhLVcU7EuuWmzUVNYyrAgkTWY_yUPnULdOZrZa5bTLYX8kQs56-49oFtkM_PeoxLlebLQgPNcx7oUstav7s5ZWDFtyFjeexO8AeDPxQlQG1NhY/w640-h480/IMG_4516.HEIC" width="640" /></a></div> <p></p><p>The streets are narrow here as well, with parking fairly hard to find. We were able to park our car across the street from our AirBnb for the week but it was tight up against the curb and along with the other cars parked there blocking half of the road forcing cars to single file in both directions.</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMSkP95eWk4z4-NGK87mTHN7P53n9JMZ7bu4391-nGwZdJ68yK28A_LO016ES5x-zy5vXjDChvx6ASvy94Y4cIzovi4gVdZlQUoeuq_ROtW0YyLxvj8hogFfxpRlxhSuDsc4PT1NfQa3ca9xxdxGnkQAX2sEDVUrGOQCobTaNOdyBhoKilrg_COelEZF4/s4032/IMG_4499.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMSkP95eWk4z4-NGK87mTHN7P53n9JMZ7bu4391-nGwZdJ68yK28A_LO016ES5x-zy5vXjDChvx6ASvy94Y4cIzovi4gVdZlQUoeuq_ROtW0YyLxvj8hogFfxpRlxhSuDsc4PT1NfQa3ca9xxdxGnkQAX2sEDVUrGOQCobTaNOdyBhoKilrg_COelEZF4/w640-h480/IMG_4499.HEIC" width="640" /></a></div><br />There is a section of a hiking trail reachable from the city. The trail is called the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/South_West_Coast_Path">South West Coastal path</a> and Anne had read about it in a book called "The Salt Path" by Raynor Wynn who hiked this trail with her husband after financial ruin and after his terminal health diagnosis. <br /><p></p><p>We decided to find it and walk for a stretch along it.</p><p>The coastline if rugged but very beautiful.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBByMqSnqjweV7vWFAb2yAnHCokonJ_N9LskO-koqxRm-v-n1G0fCY1PiJHsg-18BOYgZBYWIub95Orws_wpt-JnTIven6J4YKRKYf3vZTXZithXSU8Iz3zDc57B7SCTVDWQVIpuSjJK5r17WG1-O6V8-XoQENPFbHAb7XNpLJcv67S8xSXUI7oz7NV74/s4032/IMG_4521.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBByMqSnqjweV7vWFAb2yAnHCokonJ_N9LskO-koqxRm-v-n1G0fCY1PiJHsg-18BOYgZBYWIub95Orws_wpt-JnTIven6J4YKRKYf3vZTXZithXSU8Iz3zDc57B7SCTVDWQVIpuSjJK5r17WG1-O6V8-XoQENPFbHAb7XNpLJcv67S8xSXUI7oz7NV74/w640-h480/IMG_4521.HEIC" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p>There are stretches that run on the streets and paved paths of the towns
where the path takes you through a town. Our walk was half in the
country and half in the town so we got a feel for both.</p><p>After a week in Devon we headed back to Torpoint, across the ferry, this time in the rental car and stopped again at the restaurant where we had been treated so kindly. </p><p>The restaurant is called <a href="https://www.woogies.co.uk/">Woogies </a>and we had a meal there that rated up with the best restaurant meals we've had on our travels.<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgawc2YLlV5ZJUVfK-x3w7K-tgEhxAJm_fN0-2EHxaj_nfdJi4R5oKl7omF9Up59-gP0OjFGfy4G-NZc4lmAmTd3X4wyepUjTOMwWfMsO379hA6cPJgBYRxlyg4e9GpSW7OwyfQO1YE4YkUKuRHHb6hNmOMhI_p2KcCArgctLNvTtKnZXOe3Hn5fiOWOqE/s4032/IMG_4522.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgawc2YLlV5ZJUVfK-x3w7K-tgEhxAJm_fN0-2EHxaj_nfdJi4R5oKl7omF9Up59-gP0OjFGfy4G-NZc4lmAmTd3X4wyepUjTOMwWfMsO379hA6cPJgBYRxlyg4e9GpSW7OwyfQO1YE4YkUKuRHHb6hNmOMhI_p2KcCArgctLNvTtKnZXOe3Hn5fiOWOqE/w640-h480/IMG_4522.HEIC" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>From Torpoint our sights are set a small village within walking distance of Penzance in a bay on the most south-western stretch of England. <i> <br /></i></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p>Timhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12828578695145994984noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8344844421099848427.post-50381710913906112632023-07-11T04:36:00.001-07:002023-07-11T06:02:19.742-07:00London in June<p>Visiting our daughters in London doesn't leave much free time with my work schedule but the routine is very pleasant. We take turns to walk each pair of grandchildren to school in the morning and then afterwards usually walk the dogs along the tow-path between West Molesey and Hampton Court, often stopping at the little Cricket Club for coffee and croissants.</p><p>Our daughters both have dogs with a lot of character. Jessica's dog, Smokey likes to steal the ball from other dogs and run away. Sometimes right out of their mouths. The game doesn't last long but can be annoying to the owner and dog who were robbed! Emma's dog, Sonny is fixated on balls. He will chase them down and leap to get them if they bounce. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjslJ0loAkoGW8axix9MzOJxcZbmvvjGuj1VoNBQvg6054SlPMl9fdIgfAsrucnPNEqnHGe-mawIV13STwb0yRa8oP8wXQ6w3qt30o8WKUG6cnZZbAuhDMyGIG2xvkibBHQ76ECsUQftvY74S3353E6ZLdb5dxqeJFk0hu0utUrreI7Bbv6vRN-c-YSDQg/s4497/TJB08258.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2998" data-original-width="4497" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjslJ0loAkoGW8axix9MzOJxcZbmvvjGuj1VoNBQvg6054SlPMl9fdIgfAsrucnPNEqnHGe-mawIV13STwb0yRa8oP8wXQ6w3qt30o8WKUG6cnZZbAuhDMyGIG2xvkibBHQ76ECsUQftvY74S3353E6ZLdb5dxqeJFk0hu0utUrreI7Bbv6vRN-c-YSDQg/w640-h426/TJB08258.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />He also wrecks every ball end ends up spending time with. <br /><p></p><p>Arriving in late spring means you get to see new life. Some trees still have blossoms and flowers plants everywhere and of course on the river the goslings</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuQEd1NaeE7r-fkkzFPeOeTey0gIk1Q2BUdALhq60uLF6NL6lbThRY4kujJ6QAOxcka2ft7BBRJaTwsiGhvWr1VuLX-JEFkt8ebOo-W2CZzoIYWngwA1O8XEwT6-KkpjC6HBD6OovAZid1v0AxkN5GI4Zvf10SXuoJyho-Uc6Xct53B1bGM1BtKB1o_14/s3131/IMG_4397.heic" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2257" data-original-width="3131" height="462" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuQEd1NaeE7r-fkkzFPeOeTey0gIk1Q2BUdALhq60uLF6NL6lbThRY4kujJ6QAOxcka2ft7BBRJaTwsiGhvWr1VuLX-JEFkt8ebOo-W2CZzoIYWngwA1O8XEwT6-KkpjC6HBD6OovAZid1v0AxkN5GI4Zvf10SXuoJyho-Uc6Xct53B1bGM1BtKB1o_14/w640-h462/IMG_4397.heic" width="640" /></a></div><br /> and cygnets are at different stages of growth with their extra fluffy feathering and mad scrambles to keep up with their parents.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiht9cTSA4tMjwM-f_N1Exw-yWrEv_Vgp1SBxPyPXNyPH8lXs1TJf50e2rNjEytk3YIWBZ4jcoxnofzrieObstuBaLpul9qdBLx_L_GbeZg8RZaq7ECZZ2mRg3jdQbqRstPXnH60CJtLiLMqZQ_Zr0lf2wKMHBDcmXhyL6rREhRuova6K9-VudPs77js4/s4225/_TJB2713.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2817" data-original-width="4225" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiht9cTSA4tMjwM-f_N1Exw-yWrEv_Vgp1SBxPyPXNyPH8lXs1TJf50e2rNjEytk3YIWBZ4jcoxnofzrieObstuBaLpul9qdBLx_L_GbeZg8RZaq7ECZZ2mRg3jdQbqRstPXnH60CJtLiLMqZQ_Zr0lf2wKMHBDcmXhyL6rREhRuova6K9-VudPs77js4/w640-h426/_TJB2713.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p>Weekends are also fairly full of activities with the grandchildren and so my writing has had to take a back seat.<br /></p><p>On our first full weekend in London Anne and I spend a night in a hotel Chiswick which turned out to be a quaint and rather beautiful town. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPofdMRw8sX93RN_hgHAW-dqjxaYRgLI92GeQ1TMDGbbNMWEhbA7JH5OeIXeROCP8xPVwn4uYWqXF9Bgx7-KGFsReEBmG02HOVExmoloDzXksroBigrXFtioB6tOnoUdeOG8FShmCxzATa8CLUC6NU_9q04Pbw4l-jzkxoTo6c3hgUAPlMc1AaTWHzAj4/s4032/IMG_4408.heic" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPofdMRw8sX93RN_hgHAW-dqjxaYRgLI92GeQ1TMDGbbNMWEhbA7JH5OeIXeROCP8xPVwn4uYWqXF9Bgx7-KGFsReEBmG02HOVExmoloDzXksroBigrXFtioB6tOnoUdeOG8FShmCxzATa8CLUC6NU_9q04Pbw4l-jzkxoTo6c3hgUAPlMc1AaTWHzAj4/w640-h480/IMG_4408.heic" width="640" /></a></div><br /> The occasion was a visit to a small family-run circus (Gifford's Circus) that has been operating since 2000 and has an annual stop in a park in Chiswick. Anne came across the circus after following a British author <a href="https://giffordscircus.com/about-giffords/nells-story/" target="_blank">whose sister founded</a> the circus with her husband.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjodD6AHaUSMVe3I_UWX8wEilGXVXHfbz_6Quf5SurE13GwCeF5lAn7ad4OE5BcKgXBnEoclUN1wXJOrlVwm0FOY38fy9e4FdjsGfs_RBv8gcHiHHprENGB2kLO4dTouin-HYdbEgs8-IG41RgDaK0XpgSj_aNk5H_6vDYgd4-9LY-bupOeYjcLynrpyIQ/s4032/IMG_4412.heic" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjodD6AHaUSMVe3I_UWX8wEilGXVXHfbz_6Quf5SurE13GwCeF5lAn7ad4OE5BcKgXBnEoclUN1wXJOrlVwm0FOY38fy9e4FdjsGfs_RBv8gcHiHHprENGB2kLO4dTouin-HYdbEgs8-IG41RgDaK0XpgSj_aNk5H_6vDYgd4-9LY-bupOeYjcLynrpyIQ/w640-h480/IMG_4412.heic" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p>We were all pretty enchanted by the show which featured a house band that performed ELO's "Mr Blue Sky" so well that at first I thought it was a recorded backing track. Everyone in our family turned to look at me because of how much I had loved to play the soundtrack to the 2004 movie "The Eternal Sunhine of the Spotless Mind" every Sunday morning (which starts with this song) leading up to and for years after the movie's release in 2004. Anne occasionally calls me Mr Blue Sky for this reason (or perhaps because of my sunny disposition?)</p><p>As usual and on cue more or less - I found myself thinking through the practical realities of living in England (again) when we wandered around Chiswick and looked at the outlandish prices of properties there.</p><p>A huge draw is how closely our upbringing matches the sensibilities and character of the British. I suppose it is fair to say that there is a whole world to being British that we overlook because we haven't (and still don't) have a sense of how conscious of class people in England are. You hear the occasional mention of "posh" as a reference to someone who is or sees themselves as above the common person but I suspect there is a ton of nuance there that we have no idea about.</p><p>I wondered whether we sound "posh" to people with strong accents in England? I went looking and found articles claiming that English South Africans from the former British strongholds in South Africa (Cape Town, Eastern Cape and probably the Durban area) have what is known as a "received pronunciation" or BBC English. I remember, growing up, that we would jokingly refer to someone speaking English without a regional South African accent as using "The Queen's English" and laughing at the English TV programs with their fake affected English accents. </p><p>Of course the answer is that the South African accent is to most Brits both instantly recognizable and nothing like the British accent. People failing to make the distinction are most likely from North America where the British, New Zealand, Australian and South African accents all sound "British". In America we had times where people were less friendly (clerks at the local town hall or library) because, we later realized, we sounded like snobs with our close-to-but-not-quite-british accents.</p><p>Accents aside, it does seem that we would slot rather neatly into a community with social clubs and activities that interest us. Given that house prices decrease as you travel away from London we could probably afford to buy a house somewhere close enough to our children for regular visits and far enough to avoid becoming "baby-sit magnets".</p><p>The price of goods and restaurants did shock us this time around, though. We were paying close to 16GBP ($20 or R391) for 2 coffees and two toasted cheese and ham sandwiches at the cricket club and our few trips to restaurants were all a little alarming once we took a look at the menu.</p><p>Our second weekend involved a long drive to a sculpture garden which had some amazing sculptures made from interesting objects like a dragon made of horseshoes </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcKFqdfapQUWCUasJyxTofq8uQhBhot18gwNFjMB9RrcbSxMdvi0juJlSODAtaNgkKAt2rN-VYtBe_lSRE2VvjGP4f6l8fnTdAIn7G-t9cjpcJ6RXoHjyhSKWA_ot94TdJFUdUOEFkcgTSbiYznUB0zyTH6zIODHZG-osmryJ3kAohcfImn9PdOxFyFn4/s6000/_TJB7896.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcKFqdfapQUWCUasJyxTofq8uQhBhot18gwNFjMB9RrcbSxMdvi0juJlSODAtaNgkKAt2rN-VYtBe_lSRE2VvjGP4f6l8fnTdAIn7G-t9cjpcJ6RXoHjyhSKWA_ot94TdJFUdUOEFkcgTSbiYznUB0zyTH6zIODHZG-osmryJ3kAohcfImn9PdOxFyFn4/w640-h426/_TJB7896.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>and a rather evocative statue of a rust-colored woman caught in a pause peering at something in the woods, which reminded me of my wife.<br /><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSM2pTbyMT3dP2nfdqrOUSzWruGIaA6PjlVnTJGWMes1SQgvoUYACpoLW_O5H256W87LJ_aKcaDXvqMy1ZkdsAIJaGjxqj1Wg8khL4_0h7_0etd8dNTn18Lt9zXsII5Qko_tUqM-QdureKkeysEVcdsGPyFJpxM2HNm_K6azCM6Jp7kbUG1kkpLm9UIQQ/s6000/_TJB7900.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSM2pTbyMT3dP2nfdqrOUSzWruGIaA6PjlVnTJGWMes1SQgvoUYACpoLW_O5H256W87LJ_aKcaDXvqMy1ZkdsAIJaGjxqj1Wg8khL4_0h7_0etd8dNTn18Lt9zXsII5Qko_tUqM-QdureKkeysEVcdsGPyFJpxM2HNm_K6azCM6Jp7kbUG1kkpLm9UIQQ/w640-h426/_TJB7900.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>Anne and I took a few trips into London on this visit. Anne had a some art galleries that she wanted to see (the National Portrait gallery reopened after two years of renovation) </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtjfNCeA4WD6dGbvRINwDkUaNwWN5LmlblpzkA3H5hvnCGdiWRhfFg5YQifj0zA8T-ZYvODV6s1F5rDtoY_jVkoqfxlin95derA3nQvSCvxbIbGavOU9DwUHn9YzsJhFvmjEY3pZW4dJE0I6wRUw59HlSkAnlerr5UihFP3ZbCNimmyoRRKhZx8_Unuxc/s4522/_TJB7878-Enhanced-NR.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3015" data-original-width="4522" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtjfNCeA4WD6dGbvRINwDkUaNwWN5LmlblpzkA3H5hvnCGdiWRhfFg5YQifj0zA8T-ZYvODV6s1F5rDtoY_jVkoqfxlin95derA3nQvSCvxbIbGavOU9DwUHn9YzsJhFvmjEY3pZW4dJE0I6wRUw59HlSkAnlerr5UihFP3ZbCNimmyoRRKhZx8_Unuxc/w640-h426/_TJB7878-Enhanced-NR.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />and the July 4th weekend gave me 2 weekdays off that we used to do a standard tourist whirlwind tour of the center of London. We started at Piccadilly Circus <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoj6eVQMnuKBpg1CO-VHLyDGqsT6JyFXUD3vql-HoRdh47H2couafMt_g9rW586RHev4Q8vUtmndUqS10oahJFh_s8qwOqp_T0GKZO0rqOKwWBXgn7sCxx1Xv50fjzE75fTNg69Froe7H53n8ZU9_AK6EsXq99idbqmP96qVB2fsxBAK9X_r8ZkBrYI7o/s5672/_TJB8436.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3781" data-original-width="5672" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoj6eVQMnuKBpg1CO-VHLyDGqsT6JyFXUD3vql-HoRdh47H2couafMt_g9rW586RHev4Q8vUtmndUqS10oahJFh_s8qwOqp_T0GKZO0rqOKwWBXgn7sCxx1Xv50fjzE75fTNg69Froe7H53n8ZU9_AK6EsXq99idbqmP96qVB2fsxBAK9X_r8ZkBrYI7o/w640-h426/_TJB8436.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />and made our way down the South Bank and onto a short river cruise from the Tower of London to Westminster Hall.<p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCfh2BdbBBHZg4WdKT9h8WbKRwLAI94rQPge_IBlO3zxttk09SCOzjqnys8MKIVQfTy7CEbHs7Y7UitWMIa2yQ9_T5C3qja7LPggg2x8Fehz2HhBYsSoO5Gg1tHlRvxYopwFGSpmBK59nLwDwtYv-b_8uso1OVmH6NoRKOAwhDpRZY48OUDxZrl10JOgc/s5600/_TJB8389_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3728" data-original-width="5600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCfh2BdbBBHZg4WdKT9h8WbKRwLAI94rQPge_IBlO3zxttk09SCOzjqnys8MKIVQfTy7CEbHs7Y7UitWMIa2yQ9_T5C3qja7LPggg2x8Fehz2HhBYsSoO5Gg1tHlRvxYopwFGSpmBK59nLwDwtYv-b_8uso1OVmH6NoRKOAwhDpRZY48OUDxZrl10JOgc/w640-h426/_TJB8389_HDR.jpg" width="640" /></a></div> <p></p><p>We discovered that unless you book tickets in advance, the standard attractions (Big Ben, Westminster Abbey) are impossible to visit but we enjoyed wandering around and looking at the sites.<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXS_f6y27nc2nQdd8c-A6o5bV-LJy8bKC0Q8zF9xUJQ962iDqFR1npF5RhhgsUttIfW5algQTcHMLtIceULK81KufrVih1bwikHONI9FjJtrtmLKe_leevwFkw_zUdTeEfln_7R7PxyyeMcmiEx8d1jB4SkOxBxYAGBpAmgbXk8d-WdeJMpj2g_3sC_Yk/s6000/_TJB8424.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXS_f6y27nc2nQdd8c-A6o5bV-LJy8bKC0Q8zF9xUJQ962iDqFR1npF5RhhgsUttIfW5algQTcHMLtIceULK81KufrVih1bwikHONI9FjJtrtmLKe_leevwFkw_zUdTeEfln_7R7PxyyeMcmiEx8d1jB4SkOxBxYAGBpAmgbXk8d-WdeJMpj2g_3sC_Yk/w640-h426/_TJB8424.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>One of our trips included a stop for dinner with friends at an Ethiopian Restaurant and another to Regents Park where we met up with friends from Toronto who also happened to be in London.</p><p></p><p>We have been told by a number of people that we should visit Cornwall and so that will be our next step. I've recently been reading the detective novels that JK Rowling wrote under a pseudonym and remember her descriptions of Cornwall where the main character has his roots. It will be interesting to see the countryside and get to know a little about life in Cornwall.</p><p>I've already started looking at real estate listings which has Anne rolling her eyes.<br /></p><p> </p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p>Timhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12828578695145994984noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8344844421099848427.post-58380275525595371862023-06-03T03:02:00.002-07:002023-07-08T12:41:09.477-07:00Massachusetts - Marblehead (May/June)<p>I have joked about being boomer digital nomads because we have to go back to be closer to our home town in Massachusetts to do annual and semi-annual visits to doctors.</p><p>I expect if we applied enough thought to it we might have come up with an alternative plan, but for now we are just setting our annual checkup appointments to coincide with when we expect to be there. Most of these appointments are in December but Anne and I both had something set up for May so there we were.</p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZdDZhHKrNYjtJDAsHH-iBHWnz2sZi6_1BYFM4rmL_ADMCtZl4HdJnffWFdo94K-gYRdRkHQy0noHtigQtLfvhJQVqzyTPgRo2_xkA840V0HvAcI3fI_ELqJPPnWOgFdGkuC0hUi3DGm2KjQ4eO3gvofBjSFbGLmTcqoe6Ydhba6kXRqFFhRGH2NdiY60/s4032/IMG_4311.HEIC" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZdDZhHKrNYjtJDAsHH-iBHWnz2sZi6_1BYFM4rmL_ADMCtZl4HdJnffWFdo94K-gYRdRkHQy0noHtigQtLfvhJQVqzyTPgRo2_xkA840V0HvAcI3fI_ELqJPPnWOgFdGkuC0hUi3DGm2KjQ4eO3gvofBjSFbGLmTcqoe6Ydhba6kXRqFFhRGH2NdiY60/w640-h480/IMG_4311.HEIC" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Portugal rotary sculpture: metaphor for digital nomads and the danger of inviting them to stay<br /></td></tr></tbody></table> <p></p><p>We have dear friends in Massachusetts and most of them have offered to have us over to stay when we are back there. We are very grateful for the offers which are so appreciated. </p><p></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN5SoNWxBnZVWSCvnC9SL8aJ7o2oYnuJaU208kwgbJYSth1ClEfl2szmyA_-FeDJFiglLr4NlhZ-GMsfg_0JxmYZanESx2tHONf312aQNJtTW2QqroQYxQWgz1DoMu3kW-lDjtachEOlk1-zA535roeI569umP_PQ_eN1QOYr5SE7TWQPtXkQ5W0BbZ6w/s4032/IMG_4321.HEIC" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN5SoNWxBnZVWSCvnC9SL8aJ7o2oYnuJaU208kwgbJYSth1ClEfl2szmyA_-FeDJFiglLr4NlhZ-GMsfg_0JxmYZanESx2tHONf312aQNJtTW2QqroQYxQWgz1DoMu3kW-lDjtachEOlk1-zA535roeI569umP_PQ_eN1QOYr5SE7TWQPtXkQ5W0BbZ6w/s320/IMG_4321.HEIC" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">New York train to New Haven<br /></td></tr></tbody></table> It's a little tricky of course. Such generosity should not be met with a resounding "thank you", followed by hauling out the calendar to reserve dates, because having people stay in your house for a while is hard work and we know it. <p></p><p>We do make arrangements to stay where we feel we will be the least intrusive and are able to lend a hand by helping out with pet-sitting, internet or computer-related fix-ups, and that feels more comfortable. We have also used AirBnB, long stay hotels and the house-sitting app (Trusted House Sitters) to find places to mix into our trips back.</p><p>The first friend we made in the USA lives in Marblehead and we stopped there in late May taking care of a few appointments.</p><p>Spring in the North East of the USA is breathtakingly beautiful. The explosion of new leaves and blossoms reminded us of our first Winter transition to Spring in May 2001 and I found myself (true to form) thinking - "Wow, we should buy a house here!" as we were walking down the street to the shoreline in Marblehead.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie9MkKgGdc0BZwlwJ7D1JV7VsFBp_K7Od8P6V4bCMZbeuYnyZ1mHj1Ny39eELtLN56wLO8ALTu6M_JzZfyrG69mW5Q-pjq82h6gqx1utwX9sb9Wdf1zF2zqygXQwPTJ2v9zap9K6pElzrECVW_HvohH7GVL-o1QiuMgs9SZ-XkWYu2u_TWK-_BH8gEw1o/s3963/IMG_4324.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2972" data-original-width="3963" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie9MkKgGdc0BZwlwJ7D1JV7VsFBp_K7Od8P6V4bCMZbeuYnyZ1mHj1Ny39eELtLN56wLO8ALTu6M_JzZfyrG69mW5Q-pjq82h6gqx1utwX9sb9Wdf1zF2zqygXQwPTJ2v9zap9K6pElzrECVW_HvohH7GVL-o1QiuMgs9SZ-XkWYu2u_TWK-_BH8gEw1o/w640-h480/IMG_4324.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>It's a vain hope, of course - we already know we can't really afford to retire in the USA and the houses in this little town are selling for well above what we can comfortably afford, but I did allow the thought to linger - thinking how as you get accustomed to your surroundings that they become bland to your eye.</p><p>The striking town vistas that I have enjoyed photographing in the places we have visited would all become ordinary once we have lived there for a while.</p><p>Anne will quickly point out that this is never true with a vista over the sea because those are so dynamic. <br /></p><p>After a few days in Marblehead we had a house-sitting set for the town of Amesbury which is north of the town of Essex where we lived for so many years. It turns out that Amesbury is a quaint and very walk-able town with an attractive center featuring coffee shops and a variety of restaurants.</p><p>Right behind the town center is a stream with a small waterfall.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPA6u8dhZWtbdc2cXJOLM3RwLaR2-Ejs7_Y60S8NlL1bNsjsjYT-FC0sqWSeQ90JtTwy7Px73zUgLrn_Cu70GeS6ly11p7f05jTuz9-7H5_cWRY1QMY_cd3qS-AW4Odw0LDgPdBczrPsgMORvKYxeeiE0jannxOT9tXDqmGro9YYYA6pFsm9UngwTrsnI/s3557/IMG_4329.heic" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2667" data-original-width="3557" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPA6u8dhZWtbdc2cXJOLM3RwLaR2-Ejs7_Y60S8NlL1bNsjsjYT-FC0sqWSeQ90JtTwy7Px73zUgLrn_Cu70GeS6ly11p7f05jTuz9-7H5_cWRY1QMY_cd3qS-AW4Odw0LDgPdBczrPsgMORvKYxeeiE0jannxOT9tXDqmGro9YYYA6pFsm9UngwTrsnI/w640-h480/IMG_4329.heic" width="640" /></a></div><p>Our house-sit was a quiet few days with two King Charles Spaniels and two cats in a house full of rustic charm.</p><p>It was really great to be back in the vicinity of our work - I had an opportunity to go to the RedHat Summit - what my Uber driver called a "nerd event" in Boston.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguvra-1gQw0eOJPa5hw34P5UBPkuuGHSsGT8dXN3IbdD1tuwP1J17grvuJ1z5alytwU358OTJPC_ewzewt-SddpYEdValt6Js2wBTitM83qhIIjQojDYOn-r4YD7nVQf_RIIoSugebDkBm7G5UwPMP7IKbF631xcqJyYDsyGGmObOGRWAh8_2fhbHX0Mo/s3088/IMG_4356.heic" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2316" data-original-width="3088" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguvra-1gQw0eOJPa5hw34P5UBPkuuGHSsGT8dXN3IbdD1tuwP1J17grvuJ1z5alytwU358OTJPC_ewzewt-SddpYEdValt6Js2wBTitM83qhIIjQojDYOn-r4YD7nVQf_RIIoSugebDkBm7G5UwPMP7IKbF631xcqJyYDsyGGmObOGRWAh8_2fhbHX0Mo/w640-h480/IMG_4356.heic" width="640" /></a></div><p><br />The Uber drive, over was probably the most interesting of my life. My driver was a young man, Jerry Semper, who grew up going to Boston public schools and who took an opportunity to work for one of the large hospital organizations when they started a program for children to work for them over weekends and holidays. He was able to buy an apartment after he left school and raise two deaf children before going back to school himself. His daughter graduated from Boston University in 2023 (she was summa cum laude). His entrance to Boston University is credited to an admissions <a href="https://www.bu.edu/articles/2022/menino-community-service-scholarships/">officer who took an uber ride with him</a>, heard his story and then suggested he apply for a scholarship that she knew matched his circumstances.</p><p>I was also able to take a hike with my hiking friends and ex colleagues, some of whom had done every one of the 4000 ft New Hampshire peaks with me. The hike was short with not much elevation gain but the vibrant green of the new leaves underscored the beauty of spring in the North East.<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixc0shECJUYO_6NaxNw7E-c0RWK-Q1P2FK7hQLKTm-iG5aTiKn-fqzgYzbiFdcHjRg6TT2FveEY0WHj_SNefFTta76gET3kXiHXxE2D3oEWAUd_XqM0sKj9tW38yNMXsKJvRWrdvq-85boKEx4XRhwm2Bc64wetcQvWNhVSLzwT8sCaXlLa6Q0_zL7n9U/s9336/IMG_4357.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3970" data-original-width="9336" height="272" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixc0shECJUYO_6NaxNw7E-c0RWK-Q1P2FK7hQLKTm-iG5aTiKn-fqzgYzbiFdcHjRg6TT2FveEY0WHj_SNefFTta76gET3kXiHXxE2D3oEWAUd_XqM0sKj9tW38yNMXsKJvRWrdvq-85boKEx4XRhwm2Bc64wetcQvWNhVSLzwT8sCaXlLa6Q0_zL7n9U/w640-h272/IMG_4357.HEIC" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>We also took a drive down to Cape Cod to visit friends who took us for a walk on one of the local beaches. The photo barely hints at what this beach looks like when the tide is all the way out - the beach extends for what seems like forever!</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCi6M8ZZsIx54CaiGdpYSjBpcPP7QdkqFLpKG2WSjVJhfcnkz9lbwvKcmMnJtrKLkEKNaw6DGzG60YZLlZoJvwjpn4qGH-R1ScMlV8iDJiyrqiLydFOC1TeTgy_dOxzKM7UATraBx2UlUKEfl0OTBIJO-cPKzMM1NuPqPx_MDRpmcZ-12D0wKbK9UXgQs/s7020/IMG_4362.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3950" data-original-width="7020" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCi6M8ZZsIx54CaiGdpYSjBpcPP7QdkqFLpKG2WSjVJhfcnkz9lbwvKcmMnJtrKLkEKNaw6DGzG60YZLlZoJvwjpn4qGH-R1ScMlV8iDJiyrqiLydFOC1TeTgy_dOxzKM7UATraBx2UlUKEfl0OTBIJO-cPKzMM1NuPqPx_MDRpmcZ-12D0wKbK9UXgQs/w640-h360/IMG_4362.HEIC" width="640" /></a></div><br />And of course living close to Nahant, we spent lots of quality time with our friends there.<br /><p></p><p></p><p>We sold both of our cars on this trip which promises a new challenge when we return. Depending on the cost of car rental we might well buy a little beat up run-around for a few months and then sell or donate it to charity when we move on - we'll have to see. We save enough to cover a good portion of a short rental but longer stays in the USA may require a more creative approach.</p><p>Our next stop is the UK to visit with our daughters and to take a look at Cornwall - a region of the UK that we have been encouraged to visit before we make up our minds where we will make our permanent home. We have been traveling for 8 months and have given ourselves till the end of the year to finally decide.<br /></p>Timhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12828578695145994984noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8344844421099848427.post-62150844741359265872023-05-09T14:56:00.000-07:002023-05-09T14:57:20.072-07:00Portugal: somewhere near Lisbon<p>Our last stop in Portugal was Lisbon but the AirBnb we booked was a small house in a town called Sesimbra about 40min drive south of the capital city - ironically about the same distance that we lived from Boston.</p><p>The drive up from Carrapateira allowed us to see a few small towns along the West coast. Some of these towns are a little more isolated from the point of view of road travel - being midpoint between Lisbon and the south coast, but a couple of them are large enough to be full blown cities in their own right.</p><p>Our first stop was near Odemira which looks like a small, peaceful town, if a little too remote from any major centers. The view of the beach close to the town was spectacular as usual.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbecXXkFDKk5ZjTlC6z8cpKkvDSVcdDaEz_5epKX8sBsKADin3uYLzdeNiXPC1zf0puRttwsuQjRqOU9-qtIvfk7i-gjPyWC4abNHwrwpK9cpy6RCGdu1zbfSwL9gg0pEPFA_HwVf_FXGELTe7mgf7JzIQXlwB2QYWsESv_MWF0bUwhdt7c0N6wIvD/s8696/IMG_4228.HEIC" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3916" data-original-width="8696" height="288" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbecXXkFDKk5ZjTlC6z8cpKkvDSVcdDaEz_5epKX8sBsKADin3uYLzdeNiXPC1zf0puRttwsuQjRqOU9-qtIvfk7i-gjPyWC4abNHwrwpK9cpy6RCGdu1zbfSwL9gg0pEPFA_HwVf_FXGELTe7mgf7JzIQXlwB2QYWsESv_MWF0bUwhdt7c0N6wIvD/w640-h288/IMG_4228.HEIC" width="640" /></a></div>We next stopped at Vila Nova de Milfontes and found the beaches to be quite lovely - also with the cliffs characteristic to the west coast and on one of the beaches there appears to have been a lot of activity stacking stones. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhgS5gQz_uOrIZ0Qdnx0dA_E9D-FMJih4EoMnvz0A7uJl-ffYWeSPWwK97Je8_6BLPvKzLO15k3NHc9MEn3tmsANmjEQXOH_h4cY_DiiB7X2RYGdSwigTqL4SNJ-jFhKFjmfR3AKKxENRBFcWsvx_oFQnC_yMR1EwnOkA8QlxCbV6fUcRlwbGyCPFj/s4032/IMG_4235.HEIC" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhgS5gQz_uOrIZ0Qdnx0dA_E9D-FMJih4EoMnvz0A7uJl-ffYWeSPWwK97Je8_6BLPvKzLO15k3NHc9MEn3tmsANmjEQXOH_h4cY_DiiB7X2RYGdSwigTqL4SNJ-jFhKFjmfR3AKKxENRBFcWsvx_oFQnC_yMR1EwnOkA8QlxCbV6fUcRlwbGyCPFj/w640-h480/IMG_4235.HEIC" width="640" /></a></div> <p></p><p> An interesting statue stands at the top of the town's main beaches.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgszodc1PYzZzovAt096mLWasgWMP6TY3JFOLg1g_RSpw_G_fE5zK_nHni3u37pRB60yGYwcdUI464rEUbq0XD_rjFVtVUFjvYvBxWBOo0YNbIu24O4jZ5RgvdoKZy7Np9Lo1XFlxpkNsJ5Yby0qHEuaheni3_T5nfN86tYT7V3R1jwn_PRXg-t03ld/s4032/IMG_4238.HEIC" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgszodc1PYzZzovAt096mLWasgWMP6TY3JFOLg1g_RSpw_G_fE5zK_nHni3u37pRB60yGYwcdUI464rEUbq0XD_rjFVtVUFjvYvBxWBOo0YNbIu24O4jZ5RgvdoKZy7Np9Lo1XFlxpkNsJ5Yby0qHEuaheni3_T5nfN86tYT7V3R1jwn_PRXg-t03ld/w480-h640/IMG_4238.HEIC" width="480" /></a></div>The town is the location of one of the first Portuguese flights to the Far East in 1924 - two years after the first Portuguese flight to the Americas in 1922. There is a monument to this feat in a square in the town. The wings of the aircraft are decorated with the Portuguese Cross.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXjL4Lz9ODF9ahDicUeKITfP2nBdvJEzmKKFQPl7atBGzUTzHbWbIb_LcRkzVMmHlKTRz6QiE-iDTi8xfzgZz71gUrAdxmeCCFjTiEwLWvgdKdbPXsaQg7fLQMwlBjGR9YPsjukQgwyaaKw-hQKhwfZ7X2v5LCmFYCjgOLnj427rY3ExPKtHLSQOz-/s4032/IMG_4232.HEIC" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXjL4Lz9ODF9ahDicUeKITfP2nBdvJEzmKKFQPl7atBGzUTzHbWbIb_LcRkzVMmHlKTRz6QiE-iDTi8xfzgZz71gUrAdxmeCCFjTiEwLWvgdKdbPXsaQg7fLQMwlBjGR9YPsjukQgwyaaKw-hQKhwfZ7X2v5LCmFYCjgOLnj427rY3ExPKtHLSQOz-/w640-h480/IMG_4232.HEIC" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p>The small development in Sesimbra is characteristically populated with a mix of finished new houses - the architecture, a simple block-on-block design which I guess has to grow on you and some older houses and plenty of open lots and unfinished buildings bearing witness to the fallout of the economic woes of the early 2000's.</p><p>The walk to the beach here was around 30min and the most popular area is a large lagoon, at the moment closed off from the ocean by soft sand that has built up in the absence of storms that would ordinarily keep the mouth open. </p><p>The area is very popular for kite surfing and we saw plenty of it. The beach itself has wild waves and a strong backwash and the sea water is Atlantic cold so not terribly appealing - even though the water is a touch warmer than Boston (similar to Camp's Bay water temperatures in Cape Town).</p><p>Emma and Jess visited us for a 4 day weekend at the end of our stay in Sesimbra. </p><p>We had discovered some dirt paths on the ocean side of our settlement that led to more isolated beaches and realized after two encounters with naked people walking along the beach that we really should have done more research before venturing out in that direction. </p><p>In our defense when we visited the beaches around here we were surprised to see that there were fewer women sunbathing topless and I assumed up here near Lisbon is was less common - so too was a <a href="https://sintracascaissesimbra.com/Sesimbra-guides/praia-do-meco-beach-portugal.html">second more isolated beach</a> which had an area close to a parking lot <br /></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggy_4EUD2he7vrImGdqUxrorDSt1sksHaBVW3asiw1ea2DZTkRz7DZhgZtxG6glADHsNIZpVtm6moRL47-IiiyunZm7Y0A6FeLYDSgvoLT99M9wdoqQ4naETfQTcCywykuWx7xu-qBi8qVPtXA0cJPCFvtImXzlfu4oZoJAiI6wbQwkAv2BEYFrupd/s9476/IMG_4281.HEIC" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3928" data-original-width="9476" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggy_4EUD2he7vrImGdqUxrorDSt1sksHaBVW3asiw1ea2DZTkRz7DZhgZtxG6glADHsNIZpVtm6moRL47-IiiyunZm7Y0A6FeLYDSgvoLT99M9wdoqQ4naETfQTcCywykuWx7xu-qBi8qVPtXA0cJPCFvtImXzlfu4oZoJAiI6wbQwkAv2BEYFrupd/w640-h266/IMG_4281.HEIC" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p>Where we miscalculated was that stretches of this beaches are a world famous naturist area called Praia do Meco - infamous back in the day because it was the first naturalist beach in Portugal. The nudist beach is to the left of the public and family friendly area below the stairs and near the two restaurants (which were still closed for the season).</p><p>So it was that we were surprised on two occasions to see someone walking towards us who turned out to be naked. They had obviously not read the description of where the nude beach was either.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_pZIPGDaAFlPi8j6YgO5yB__yDBYPOP6IklAX_KQWf2-evjmmmb7yl5BgERAPocdp-na8CfsGANJbvdtINk6V_fan5QboLC3FY4pcZVwcnZNFZ4SHetGwPFL2iydj7rF2LTyGRVM9zVEVH9bGoooNdkH6s-MVtb_GrFh5MBvpokt7ST75GstYH8Tf/s4032/IMG_4285.HEIC" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_pZIPGDaAFlPi8j6YgO5yB__yDBYPOP6IklAX_KQWf2-evjmmmb7yl5BgERAPocdp-na8CfsGANJbvdtINk6V_fan5QboLC3FY4pcZVwcnZNFZ4SHetGwPFL2iydj7rF2LTyGRVM9zVEVH9bGoooNdkH6s-MVtb_GrFh5MBvpokt7ST75GstYH8Tf/w640-h480/IMG_4285.HEIC" width="640" /></a></div>To be honest there is a much more relaxed view here. Some people are comfortable changing in public without the struggle with towels around them and others are fine being among people in various states of undress on the beaches. One beach in Lagos had a group of naturalists gathered on the far edge and families in swimsuits in the areas closer to the parking lots.<p></p><p>Before Emma and Jess arrived, Anne and I made an attempt to go to Lisbon for a morning in the car to see Sintra which is a beautiful area that attracted the rich residents to build homes in the hills to escape the heat in summer. </p><p>There is a palace up there that we thought would be good to see - but the morning traffic and the crowds visiting the palace made it impossible to do more than drive past it and then turn around to come back for the start of my work day. We'll have to make that trip again when we have more time and we've figured out public transport a little better. </p>We took a trip to Lisbon on the Saturday, this time parking at the ferry on the South Bank of the river Tagus - the great river that we had seen in Santerém that starts somewhere in Spain. We walked around a bit before deciding to just give in to the hop-on-hop off bus tour which took us past some of the sights in the city including Jeronimo's Monastery, <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif41IBimBWJ507kHyHeq7L-c1COLLZgiEUgfZ-WjD0nP84nB46q3qUO57S92f-HFVmdZFmjbvwVeOpl7B-sY982dXMMmT5Guyybvxl0Ejmh5dM5X8YNIObQqfgKaDvSKzj-2Yhstkfexn-UT4-_M_NmLCfJ_toucUSy21ReMUhanRp2D11P5x1mKnY/s6000/_TJB2172.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif41IBimBWJ507kHyHeq7L-c1COLLZgiEUgfZ-WjD0nP84nB46q3qUO57S92f-HFVmdZFmjbvwVeOpl7B-sY982dXMMmT5Guyybvxl0Ejmh5dM5X8YNIObQqfgKaDvSKzj-2Yhstkfexn-UT4-_M_NmLCfJ_toucUSy21ReMUhanRp2D11P5x1mKnY/w640-h426/_TJB2172.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />the 25th April Bridge (named after the 1974 Carnation revolution)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS3ksoG-5cUmln--EqVj-yjKJ_A2f_mNQQn9XZ4AnCMVStx7mEZu2x8jlrHqTdaYCefSXWa2NIgOZYcvqY_YDboezJaUjaavkyzE5rcGl-N4ntRLKSLu9PNBrrwdq_DXZBdatK4BHrQ9lBrz7C3sh3ybyTkVD8d1anI3DWp-QDz53avYchH85UQCGB/s6000/_TJB2189.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS3ksoG-5cUmln--EqVj-yjKJ_A2f_mNQQn9XZ4AnCMVStx7mEZu2x8jlrHqTdaYCefSXWa2NIgOZYcvqY_YDboezJaUjaavkyzE5rcGl-N4ntRLKSLu9PNBrrwdq_DXZBdatK4BHrQ9lBrz7C3sh3ybyTkVD8d1anI3DWp-QDz53avYchH85UQCGB/w640-h426/_TJB2189.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /> and the monument to the ocean explorers (we learned about two of them in
history over and over each year at school: Vasco Da Gama and
Bartholomew Diaz - although our school-learned pronunciation of their
names would make them unrecognizable in Portugal).<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNTw1BCKGyKUbNiqNkv7Sf5BjjvM9v-_bixEPkwt7TrQ8uB89m9I3GJf1shNtWYxKEwcsZSYJyxQrRrnfU45g2Rkn0ZK-jdysX0eEDERSGIicSKcxnN6ep9mWPIjYbZdOgoEZR6oVm7JY-5R7pbYmAiVN-DPLnQrs3-k7oUqEsxWabdM-Xbibdz8GQ/s6000/_TJB2181.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNTw1BCKGyKUbNiqNkv7Sf5BjjvM9v-_bixEPkwt7TrQ8uB89m9I3GJf1shNtWYxKEwcsZSYJyxQrRrnfU45g2Rkn0ZK-jdysX0eEDERSGIicSKcxnN6ep9mWPIjYbZdOgoEZR6oVm7JY-5R7pbYmAiVN-DPLnQrs3-k7oUqEsxWabdM-Xbibdz8GQ/w640-h426/_TJB2181.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>It was lovely to have Emma and Jess visit us for these four days despite the exposure to over-exposed individuals which gave us a few laughs in the days after. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj21tJcVmu_O2NpyUpdi82Bs-wEQo8ojiKNy_uTWhnIaGRufCEDuIZSoHBN9K0Xh4hvu_qKtmpU2OAg9DB0T42zmB25U-YqBaCBbeATpwTkGCiytIb2R9e-OtQ45SwlHumurv0YENLa6ixArmV_xiKoK-F3FSThWkii6dsQYuJ5qsvZYjH5OUex9Wf7/s4605/_TJB2217.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3070" data-original-width="4605" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj21tJcVmu_O2NpyUpdi82Bs-wEQo8ojiKNy_uTWhnIaGRufCEDuIZSoHBN9K0Xh4hvu_qKtmpU2OAg9DB0T42zmB25U-YqBaCBbeATpwTkGCiytIb2R9e-OtQ45SwlHumurv0YENLa6ixArmV_xiKoK-F3FSThWkii6dsQYuJ5qsvZYjH5OUex9Wf7/w640-h426/_TJB2217.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p> </p><p>On Sunday we took a trip to the city of Evora, which has the oldest university in Portugal. It was an hour-long trip and a much larger city than I expected. We drove up some really narrow streets and parked near a beautiful cathedral which is close to the ruins of a Roman temple to Diana.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcih2EGm51Cy-nHFAIdaFc52Jhr0gNtRXCITOgalXIx99UNggln0l6Z5NMsHwYPbbr1ylbiI9NDU-XciOAN8eQuoAn4Xrlz25VObqlRK-BQ3QueMHUscO4j7ycIR9cf1cA7IzhSxMQiuCZr_e3XJ_gWgt5wZXk9ZFBNBeD_Kecof_ZIwpZSdgDobOa/s6000/_TJB2474.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcih2EGm51Cy-nHFAIdaFc52Jhr0gNtRXCITOgalXIx99UNggln0l6Z5NMsHwYPbbr1ylbiI9NDU-XciOAN8eQuoAn4Xrlz25VObqlRK-BQ3QueMHUscO4j7ycIR9cf1cA7IzhSxMQiuCZr_e3XJ_gWgt5wZXk9ZFBNBeD_Kecof_ZIwpZSdgDobOa/w640-h426/_TJB2474.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p>The cathedral offers views of the city and is magnificently decorated. It was built between 1186 and 1204 but went through series of additions and enlargements over about an 80 year period when gothic-style additions were made. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAqYPGBcj-PPXGf-jLIxJpd9ngTByGd8IipCmwubDjecleWihGhNUKUV7nRv9T3m6TQKT94rWBxe9A7crtjOi6Wo315qg0W0m74dx2wEQpzx4EjnmATy0ZFLEIg52SGeonjY4MWYuFKHRk4twwyKtFNOGbSuyAHIjay7zI_iKtXIWrEGqyHxcdZemF/s5988/_TJB2336_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3980" data-original-width="5988" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAqYPGBcj-PPXGf-jLIxJpd9ngTByGd8IipCmwubDjecleWihGhNUKUV7nRv9T3m6TQKT94rWBxe9A7crtjOi6Wo315qg0W0m74dx2wEQpzx4EjnmATy0ZFLEIg52SGeonjY4MWYuFKHRk4twwyKtFNOGbSuyAHIjay7zI_iKtXIWrEGqyHxcdZemF/w640-h426/_TJB2336_HDR.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />The cardinal of this cathedral was the brother of King John III (The Pious) from 1512-1580 who ended up being the king of Portugal for two years after the ruling king was killed in a battle in Morocco.<p></p><p>At lunch we had a very entertaining waiter who was playing games with French, English and Portuguese while he was taking our order. We were trying to order in Portuguese but our rate of success hasn't been great.</p><p>We then went to a Franciscan cathedral - also very lavishly decorated and then on to the Chapel of the Bones which is just what you'd imagine from the name.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqeWBPii3cZFj25OQG5Lsi_7yYkbLeRcrGgVm4dcum3EV4TkJZSJkpPFeoyMDxpM6cI6UQMNK2jqJLh-fwxjpjIuUnn4V66HB5ySE6tgAL-bpkORlnB4nRwovhzv_b121QIxo6G90FVNo8kuLFh12rShQulUNeeYeemyFavuQmXI-iUN5t4K6KCEZY/s5985/_TJB2419_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3985" data-original-width="5985" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqeWBPii3cZFj25OQG5Lsi_7yYkbLeRcrGgVm4dcum3EV4TkJZSJkpPFeoyMDxpM6cI6UQMNK2jqJLh-fwxjpjIuUnn4V66HB5ySE6tgAL-bpkORlnB4nRwovhzv_b121QIxo6G90FVNo8kuLFh12rShQulUNeeYeemyFavuQmXI-iUN5t4K6KCEZY/w640-h426/_TJB2419_HDR.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>We read a few articles about this chapel. Some articles gloss over the origin of the bones to emphasize the message in the building, while others describe them as the bones of 5000 Muslims who had been murdered.</p><p><a href="https://everything-everywhere.com/bizarre-bone-chapels-portugal/">An article</a> explains that the origin of this chapel in the 16th Century: the cemeteries around the city were overcrowded and as the city was expanding so it was decided to relocate the corpses to another location. The Franciscan monks of Évora decided to give the corpses a more honorable final resting place that would serve a more noble purpose - to educate and warn the local citizens that they too were mortal and should pause in their increasingly wayward journey to think about their mortality.</p><p>Since the 18th century until fairly recently two full skeletons were hung from the ceiling. I read in one of the descriptions of the chapel that this was reminiscent of a legend about a woman cursing her husband and child on her deathbed that their bones would never decay for having treated her badly.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5kpOI9xLPNJHj_JoZmM2zjHeLDTIr-5rg2iiR--quPdKpgyZKbT2l2akVfJN3FnN2sGVqnb_woGpoHfODwNVcJWg7LeHSSp1KQXI9VgzVnuQecaduDWARfvq2RF55i1qtLK1bXrNjuMlTW6ajsSMBAcwhYlzlANgs63ekeyWRAB4xfcBH3R4H0VHl/s5991/_TJB2414_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3988" data-original-width="5991" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5kpOI9xLPNJHj_JoZmM2zjHeLDTIr-5rg2iiR--quPdKpgyZKbT2l2akVfJN3FnN2sGVqnb_woGpoHfODwNVcJWg7LeHSSp1KQXI9VgzVnuQecaduDWARfvq2RF55i1qtLK1bXrNjuMlTW6ajsSMBAcwhYlzlANgs63ekeyWRAB4xfcBH3R4H0VHl/w640-h426/_TJB2414_HDR.jpg" width="640" /></a></div> <p></p><p>These two skeletons are now displayed in glass cases.</p><p>Which brings us back to whether these were all murdered Muslim corpses. The claim makes it seem like the monks deliberately desecrated the corpses of Muslims but it seems they desecrated the corpses of cemeteries without regard for the religion. The practice of moving bones from cemeteries into ossuaries was common throughout Catholic Europe until recently. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOlbjm4B3ijJH1odSi1k5oMnIXc9nopUfUMmnOtrbXYu61hrt9mPPZmxoswXeDuErevrofpGeTqcWli3iF6CH_l4VszlRyUTJbLRbJhFQdYujImMrpowCBFkbZ_6E1-R4qzs0E1J5WnXG4Ha8LlvRgt3SNsB0Le48F9EGccc-56qubfuRgrEWy1iwq/s5630/_TJB2429_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3745" data-original-width="5630" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOlbjm4B3ijJH1odSi1k5oMnIXc9nopUfUMmnOtrbXYu61hrt9mPPZmxoswXeDuErevrofpGeTqcWli3iF6CH_l4VszlRyUTJbLRbJhFQdYujImMrpowCBFkbZ_6E1-R4qzs0E1J5WnXG4Ha8LlvRgt3SNsB0Le48F9EGccc-56qubfuRgrEWy1iwq/w640-h426/_TJB2429_HDR.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p>However, multiple articles confirm that 5000 corpses were used in this building and it is true that the Moors occupied Portugal between the 8th and 12th Century. When the Moors invaded, they gave the cities a choice: surrender, keep your property, faith and autonomy and pay a tax for their unbelief to the Muslim faith, or risk the lives of all the males and risk slavery for the women.</p><p>The result was that most of rural Portugal converted to Islam, and the Moors and local people in the cities learned to prosper and live together, Arabic became the main language resulting in over 1000 Arabic words being introduced into Portuguese. The art, culture and technology that was introduced by the Moors in Spain and Portugal propelled Europe into the Renaissance.</p><p>In 1139 the new King of Portugal began to expel the Moors from Portugal, with the help of Christian Crusaders who completed the expulsion. The Christians didn't show the same tolerance and the once vibrant Muslim communities in Portugal were murdered, expelled or forced to convert to Christianity. The famous explorer, Vasco da Gama has been accused of waging a war on Muslims in reprisal for attacks on the Portuguese which culminated in his burning a ship full of Muslim pilgrims - a historical fact that isn't often mentioned.</p><p>In 2019 a newly found far-right party claimed a seat in the Portuguese government. They espouse the Christian Nationalist views once held by the autocratic ruler who was overthrown in the Carnation Revolution. For example they oppose teaching about Islam in public schools and gloss over the conquests and rule of Portugal by the Moors and the Visigoths while focusing on the Christian conquest of the Moors. </p><p>This is eerily similar to what we experienced in South Africa growing up, where the ideas of apartheid were espoused as "noble" and "generous". And also more recently to the USA Christian conservative
movement's desires to downplay or ban the teaching of historical events
that undermine their nationalist views (like slavery and voter suppression and to rewrite some of the significant events in the civil right's movement). </p><p>Despite this somber recounting of history we have been amazed at how welcoming the Portuguese people are of visitors and immigrants. It is quite amazing to hear open encouragement - like old friends telling you to come over any time. </p><p>And really mean it.<br /></p>Timhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12828578695145994984noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8344844421099848427.post-47139188503366499142023-04-30T09:50:00.002-07:002023-05-01T05:57:42.304-07:00Portugal: Carrapateira, Monchique and the convent<p>I figured when we packed up everything and decided to set off together that I'd take some strain with not having a "home". To be honest when we went on vacation in the past after two weeks I was ready for my own bed so I really wasn't sure how I'd hold up for a longer jaunt. Now there really isn't a bed somewhere that I can long for and for now that's ok.<br /></p><p>To help with "making it home" Anne brought a few things that reminded us of our past homes and I decided that I'd bring our Roku along so we could keep watching some of the shows that we'd been watching in October.</p><p>It is a little tiring and annoying to move every couple of weeks and we've learned quite a bit about how to keep rolling with this. I was adamant that I'd bring everything I needed in two carry on bags (a overhead and under-seat) but Anne will quickly point out that some of my stuff is in the 2 large suitcases that we check in on the flights and drag along between locations.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPI5CUH8iwIlP2z5uEjUFetp5xkctuN8ImerBgm7f--YH45d7P90AoRGRmsY034R9-WxpZoLcQ1tgpyL3o85DnXNhXiGZa1-pOjJ3ThPeyl7I1qpxsaLVGkSgt0Lm7QSLqNVs13UTjQj1_nQavDjKHn7zKHX33GMxFjt3ZGhESB7Ciccqx9KZElMLt/s3147/IMG_4225.heic" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="3147" height="307" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPI5CUH8iwIlP2z5uEjUFetp5xkctuN8ImerBgm7f--YH45d7P90AoRGRmsY034R9-WxpZoLcQ1tgpyL3o85DnXNhXiGZa1-pOjJ3ThPeyl7I1qpxsaLVGkSgt0Lm7QSLqNVs13UTjQj1_nQavDjKHn7zKHX33GMxFjt3ZGhESB7Ciccqx9KZElMLt/s320/IMG_4225.heic" width="320" /></a></div>My work setup is a laptop on a light fold-up stand (it folds to the size of a small pencil case) with a second small flat monitor and a small keyboard and mouse. It is pretty important that this setup is something that I can comfortably use for work because I'm at it for 8 - 10 hours a day and occasionally more. Some of these hours are really late at night depending on where we are staying. I was also adamant that I would work my regular hours.<br /><p></p><p>I have been stopped a few times because of all the electronics that I had with me. We have a small battery powered CO2 detector and I brought a small wireless router for the roku and to connect seamlessly back to the USA. After the second time having to unpack everything to show the little electronic bits I have been putting them into a bag in one of the big suitcases along with some toiletries and my portable hair and beard trimmer.</p><p>Not that the hair trimmer has seen much use. I have ignored cutting my hair since more or less the middle of COVID and it is now quite comfortable down to my shoulders.</p><p>When we arrive at a new AirBnb I unpack the small packing cubes I use to organize my clothing and then set up my workstation, the little wireless router and the roku. Our iphones, computers and Anne's tablet don't have to be reconfigured every time because we still use the wireless hotspot that I had at our home in Essex.</p><p>In the Europe and UK timezones I get up at 7:30am (2:30am EDT), read the news and do our duolingo lesson and the wordle (a friendly competition each morning with Anne to see who does it in the least steps) and then we are free to explore until 1pm (8an EDT) when I get myself set up - take care of any admin on the computer and get my head ready for work. 5pm local coincides with lunchtime in the US.</p><p>I have left my computer's date and time on EDT because it was getting too confusing to do the timezone conversion everytime a meeting was announced or planned. The net effect is that once I get zoned into work I often look up at 4pm EDT surprised to see it is dark outside. Its 9pm local time! Work ends at 10pm and I'm in bed by 11:30pm.</p><p>Our stop in Carrapateira in the Aljezur region has been almost two weeks and is our penultimate stop. We'll be in Lisbon for two weeks before returning to the US for the rest of May.</p><p>Carrapateira is tiny with a single small shop and a few restaurants but with two surf shops. The town is also on the <span>Rota Vicentina (Fisherman's trail) and you often see hikers on the beach coming off the trail hot and exhausted or in the restaurants.</span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWqOUXi_klXh7TfJ4HeywmyaJDUuNtlLzqO993mP2Cr6SY_uYmxIgJq-ucPheOig9BdR7Ey4HP5dP5qKNFngkeG9hmgMYri3Dx-o7ykiP44x_vCdP9i1TMNXr-R02vhaumvgd8pAjzY-gSOOwlaKo6Vpk7O-7KLK9Jd_YhgCsIoY_jlN420IhUSECY/s1600/PHOTO-2023-04-29-19-03-26.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1066" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWqOUXi_klXh7TfJ4HeywmyaJDUuNtlLzqO993mP2Cr6SY_uYmxIgJq-ucPheOig9BdR7Ey4HP5dP5qKNFngkeG9hmgMYri3Dx-o7ykiP44x_vCdP9i1TMNXr-R02vhaumvgd8pAjzY-gSOOwlaKo6Vpk7O-7KLK9Jd_YhgCsIoY_jlN420IhUSECY/w640-h426/PHOTO-2023-04-29-19-03-26.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hiker snacking after a swim<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p><span>Our favorite restaurant was Alecrim - we ended up going there for lunch enough times to work through their main meal menu once and a bit. The chef is Nepalese and the dahl that he makes is really tasty, but so is everything else.</span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw7I-fIsJXkEMGlcCDuxg-u0KjdWj_O4GodZGdOq8A5ps2GzNdx5HjZ6zGxMY59fJgvqwhkbp-6_IycYv03km6IR1ILDVsxwPQnYUzC37dSJFk7MCHZZ2iwRnIazCCVaWJqWK78BS_tS22qN2UzuNBgAsS0DYUNv83GradTXC5YasCo9zfEIRRu-10/s4032/IMG_4210.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw7I-fIsJXkEMGlcCDuxg-u0KjdWj_O4GodZGdOq8A5ps2GzNdx5HjZ6zGxMY59fJgvqwhkbp-6_IycYv03km6IR1ILDVsxwPQnYUzC37dSJFk7MCHZZ2iwRnIazCCVaWJqWK78BS_tS22qN2UzuNBgAsS0DYUNv83GradTXC5YasCo9zfEIRRu-10/w640-h480/IMG_4210.HEIC" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p><span></span>Bacalhau à Brás is a meal with potatoes, egg and cod and I took a photo of it to send to our friend in Sanatarem who I think served this to us when we visited her and her husband. It is delicious.</p><p>There is plenty of hiking around this town and we took a walk up on to the cliffs to the south of the local beach. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2zK1OWIJxKdrxzJbc_MKWVZQ_t8PO98Wg3rNMGnNAxOifnkNCYgvRTv9kW-LAkeNDNoHI1W39WLCCPqzDFCHnvkA94CiRJcCO910xZsP-F27QsYSTBpUtUGhx6B7nCeboRWcXEECYeG8f_X6cZN5LWzSgAg2gJjtrihgwxh29DrO34mgho79PbxcE/s4032/IMG_4215.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2zK1OWIJxKdrxzJbc_MKWVZQ_t8PO98Wg3rNMGnNAxOifnkNCYgvRTv9kW-LAkeNDNoHI1W39WLCCPqzDFCHnvkA94CiRJcCO910xZsP-F27QsYSTBpUtUGhx6B7nCeboRWcXEECYeG8f_X6cZN5LWzSgAg2gJjtrihgwxh29DrO34mgho79PbxcE/w640-h480/IMG_4215.HEIC" width="640" /></a></div><br /> There are landmark metal sculptures of letters with carved inscriptions on their backs describing something significant about the area around and we walked from the letter C to the letter E on one of our mornings.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigofFrwXrC3I64Bsu9SH9oKjUrC_iGALPwZ3gURdh6Ry3HEHePpT8_oGg2S_Lyu-adsHw8n1VYIxcWcW_8v09K3HDkUVeM0hFROz2ALakxmSNmbph9C0HC-Pz2IngdkqOQxmG7-n3pnbU_mUXRebuV3jcLXeNF0MtSXRR4Rf111hcV4IS7s2Y_JAYc/s4032/IMG_4214.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigofFrwXrC3I64Bsu9SH9oKjUrC_iGALPwZ3gURdh6Ry3HEHePpT8_oGg2S_Lyu-adsHw8n1VYIxcWcW_8v09K3HDkUVeM0hFROz2ALakxmSNmbph9C0HC-Pz2IngdkqOQxmG7-n3pnbU_mUXRebuV3jcLXeNF0MtSXRR4Rf111hcV4IS7s2Y_JAYc/w640-h480/IMG_4214.HEIC" width="640" /></a></div>Monchique is the highest mountain in Portugal and the town Monchique is just below the top of the mountain. The road to the town from where we were staying was pretty narrow and
winding with some gaping drops on the one side along parts of the
routes. I found myself wondering how some of the houses built near
these cliffs are going to hold up against the erosion that will
inevitably weaken their foundations. <p></p><p>When we got close to the town we came across this very impressive granite quarry - it is incredible to see how the granite has been hewn out of the mountain leaving stunningly vertical cliffs in the cavity that has been created by cutting and extraction of the granite blocks. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgcoRnS9zg0WhDF7kGA11UPU7HnhdAEJA2P44k3OWqZITqdsuUb72q7lq0W8wf2eu2aU7lGuDi-S1-UoTwSeJEvgelE4DsfopohkZ-zuVfC6wN2PJ52YTGfJ7L61o3RsQXIdfKF-HBWQy3BNOXk_ZhnZg7D7CfstcCohR16BeRe3B-Sz5H-M7DVrkS/s4000/_TJB2069.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2667" data-original-width="4000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgcoRnS9zg0WhDF7kGA11UPU7HnhdAEJA2P44k3OWqZITqdsuUb72q7lq0W8wf2eu2aU7lGuDi-S1-UoTwSeJEvgelE4DsfopohkZ-zuVfC6wN2PJ52YTGfJ7L61o3RsQXIdfKF-HBWQy3BNOXk_ZhnZg7D7CfstcCohR16BeRe3B-Sz5H-M7DVrkS/w640-h426/_TJB2069.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p>The town is quaint, although it has a reputation of getting very hot in the summer, but our visit there was really comfortable with a cool breeze blowing. <br /></p><p>The views from the mirador are really beautiful and the town has the characteristic narrow streets lined with terraced houses.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhffqW6AF6Xue70dfvXZiibNWVc0321s-CmLSORGLIpXQdPi2eF21jYbizOAj_iLJoKgELTC1RwBWa4qEseD97n_aKoV2ZvZ5AC2LzBl-zNxMWjtkIFQ4QedjZEvSuj2Ss00uszXJZSe-iFJRowAL_F5NPQy1WCo1LYqF1i6pXjpWSuBWLy-A-csE7O/s4000/_TJB2076.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2667" data-original-width="4000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhffqW6AF6Xue70dfvXZiibNWVc0321s-CmLSORGLIpXQdPi2eF21jYbizOAj_iLJoKgELTC1RwBWa4qEseD97n_aKoV2ZvZ5AC2LzBl-zNxMWjtkIFQ4QedjZEvSuj2Ss00uszXJZSe-iFJRowAL_F5NPQy1WCo1LYqF1i6pXjpWSuBWLy-A-csE7O/w640-h426/_TJB2076.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p>We visited two interesting places, the first an eccentric ceramicist who makes unusual figures of humans, animals and insects many of which are installed in the water feature at the centre of the town. The gallery is high on the side of the mountain and is quite enchanting.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu4XOqXigvOrVmEnu9AWbvt2Hp-wT7XF4pCXdVnhHP-psdXPJkyBQ0nNPNis48IewTKx7Q-c1jWRdAZ3JAjT2g3jNwszUGoe_udyXSFV0W4sWXoOmwXPcrNAfjFfFeTiy-MrnrU_vWffRZRuc8FLp9LCkPPV0jX4lkM-V7HrBKLCe_Fiq2gkbwAyLD/s4000/_TJB2091_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2658" data-original-width="4000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu4XOqXigvOrVmEnu9AWbvt2Hp-wT7XF4pCXdVnhHP-psdXPJkyBQ0nNPNis48IewTKx7Q-c1jWRdAZ3JAjT2g3jNwszUGoe_udyXSFV0W4sWXoOmwXPcrNAfjFfFeTiy-MrnrU_vWffRZRuc8FLp9LCkPPV0jX4lkM-V7HrBKLCe_Fiq2gkbwAyLD/w640-h426/_TJB2091_HDR.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>We spent some time walking in the garden and examining the caricatured creatures before going back down to the center <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEica-0EiQ1eRyHxhIuGWPcpHADtNqgmDmTLcl02j127hwhagk17XwayEji3FdOmYFQu4cWDOeMwuS2zqz_-N5hFe5GIA4B0qLVsDRyFk76YYvETgxll2uOMSjFemBZrm2NBJ5Bdtp86JFZbIw_Uami947dcsKyd00aoJKRVyjN0hvWYvhBPTW_q73b3/s4000/_TJB2100.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2667" data-original-width="4000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEica-0EiQ1eRyHxhIuGWPcpHADtNqgmDmTLcl02j127hwhagk17XwayEji3FdOmYFQu4cWDOeMwuS2zqz_-N5hFe5GIA4B0qLVsDRyFk76YYvETgxll2uOMSjFemBZrm2NBJ5Bdtp86JFZbIw_Uami947dcsKyd00aoJKRVyjN0hvWYvhBPTW_q73b3/w640-h426/_TJB2100.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />where I ordered a town specialty Asadura de Porco Preta (black pork roast) which a plateful of cut up roasted pork strips with fries and a salad. Pigs are farmed here so I guess this is why it is a town specialty.<p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJgdl8Co87WkU6aRj5E7eKIvK18qKa2ZVNXsgkY5OBOcYMawhlE0nFjcDE3GhTC8pp7uOTTpmGaD5lYKhpHrCajEjjClRhNT2cgqbkdz8YapLHuqVjrmpdFYqKbwkYytJshUaFjb6uEmrotp_FbpWJxVlQheY_M7Zuqe8ip5MGAUJHRA6sfdHnSN0m/s4000/_TJB2103_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2663" data-original-width="4000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJgdl8Co87WkU6aRj5E7eKIvK18qKa2ZVNXsgkY5OBOcYMawhlE0nFjcDE3GhTC8pp7uOTTpmGaD5lYKhpHrCajEjjClRhNT2cgqbkdz8YapLHuqVjrmpdFYqKbwkYytJshUaFjb6uEmrotp_FbpWJxVlQheY_M7Zuqe8ip5MGAUJHRA6sfdHnSN0m/w640-h426/_TJB2103_HDR.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />After lunch we hiked up the side of the mountain to an old convent. We had read that people are squatting there and assumed that we would not be able to go in.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXsK-eh3E33rtNqByFWbk21ApDU0e7VoaRfFxGsp6oQ23LBtT--SE05O_npr4WP8V-NqjWWXTp6GdkOfOevphGdJo6_PpbMFZV7nbM9VlyeGw6JKr2_taffouumfz_3vzDAy3AlHNaJRLFxi4ajAeTCNkM__8TeRhYM6tn1E7tORCYmEzogn6SDre-/s4000/_TJB2128_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2654" data-original-width="4000" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXsK-eh3E33rtNqByFWbk21ApDU0e7VoaRfFxGsp6oQ23LBtT--SE05O_npr4WP8V-NqjWWXTp6GdkOfOevphGdJo6_PpbMFZV7nbM9VlyeGw6JKr2_taffouumfz_3vzDAy3AlHNaJRLFxi4ajAeTCNkM__8TeRhYM6tn1E7tORCYmEzogn6SDre-/w640-h424/_TJB2128_HDR.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p>Indeed there were markings on the doors and walls all around the deteriorating building that said "Familia" and "Private". </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-h-e99JLBiY4NpwHcqptdOiTo3ByPeA_spaF_F_wLrtRrmIsaKl2YsLC5Srl9DDbymWUUq8-A7LjyGAulU6V8nohWNbS6k8wABkS70z6gWL6qzLXIzsaTUCkJGwNS2MVOPrV02FLmvaTp3i-_1zLquMnr6KJqAsI-XLnSz0gRAgnACHo5vE6LPkJq/s4000/_TJB2133.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2667" data-original-width="4000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-h-e99JLBiY4NpwHcqptdOiTo3ByPeA_spaF_F_wLrtRrmIsaKl2YsLC5Srl9DDbymWUUq8-A7LjyGAulU6V8nohWNbS6k8wABkS70z6gWL6qzLXIzsaTUCkJGwNS2MVOPrV02FLmvaTp3i-_1zLquMnr6KJqAsI-XLnSz0gRAgnACHo5vE6LPkJq/w640-h426/_TJB2133.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p>I'm not sure what prompted me to ask a man sitting on a rock near the front entrance whether the convent was closed (I used the Spanish word "cerrada" with some hand signs) - and he promptly got up and beckoned for us to follow him. I said "no tengo dinero" (I don't have money) again relying on Spanish and he shook his head and said "no problema".<br /></p><p>Of course we were immediately on high alert because he was leading us along a long and winding path around the back of the convent but for some reason I felt ok to follow him - deciding that if things started to get dodgy we'd have to make a plan</p><p>He pulled a gate open and then a double door leading in to the convent which was a cavernous hall with no roof and a couple of trees growing in it and then he locked the door behind us!</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZEGVZOsNzrOPQQI_bf_wc45EUNE_MGnhnFjPa0AfinVvcIorM55jMy-lviID4bBy3xc-Zl61q5cekmmebiEVaTtbQjA9L0pL-QmhG56Z5LoSHZ0D0IgkFuGcTVE3-1ku85pwq8lff-IRveHpomgc7Pa11OO4XkxMuWDIZWgV-wsIS1Q6Ot9v-jOIr/s4000/_TJB2134_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2651" data-original-width="4000" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZEGVZOsNzrOPQQI_bf_wc45EUNE_MGnhnFjPa0AfinVvcIorM55jMy-lviID4bBy3xc-Zl61q5cekmmebiEVaTtbQjA9L0pL-QmhG56Z5LoSHZ0D0IgkFuGcTVE3-1ku85pwq8lff-IRveHpomgc7Pa11OO4XkxMuWDIZWgV-wsIS1Q6Ot9v-jOIr/w640-h424/_TJB2134_HDR.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>I was wondering if there were a gang of people who would fleece us once we were inside, but it was deserted. Afterwards Anne told me she was imagining how she would defend us with her hiking poles. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj650z1S1A9HoJs55V-TzaLgfld3gwF5lkDItHfwmE5fGvzTSW-Q_pKYHqo0WlaVJs3oGepVmbegHZ7XAywNlRFwnsq0lW7g_pybjz6VXj3tEIdjv7z9ZlpzALHs6gSJL_VOTomh90JDdtiZGesWOG7CRYmUBttKlqb_Foc8uZLBTFLB1U3SzMgw4n5/s4000/_TJB2146_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2646" data-original-width="4000" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj650z1S1A9HoJs55V-TzaLgfld3gwF5lkDItHfwmE5fGvzTSW-Q_pKYHqo0WlaVJs3oGepVmbegHZ7XAywNlRFwnsq0lW7g_pybjz6VXj3tEIdjv7z9ZlpzALHs6gSJL_VOTomh90JDdtiZGesWOG7CRYmUBttKlqb_Foc8uZLBTFLB1U3SzMgw4n5/w640-h424/_TJB2146_HDR.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>He gestured to different rooms for me to see and made hand signs to take photos before telling us that the convent had been there since the 1400s.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigI3CVthdEbO6mi7fQ-s29vq6AXsCEGDpDpxsn3iRPTuDsIzm-SDEsGvq4z0T1SEiqyx9LKGeCfH_huL9DgmqKWVzPkEdPU-Ns0IEZYFignZBz53Gs7DNEBCRTmABF1IQPz4ykw4qtopXqgHsPtHtp11bJ3UgODFIE7sE7BUK48CDDlQ51twAc8JTw/s4000/_TJB2151_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2652" data-original-width="4000" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigI3CVthdEbO6mi7fQ-s29vq6AXsCEGDpDpxsn3iRPTuDsIzm-SDEsGvq4z0T1SEiqyx9LKGeCfH_huL9DgmqKWVzPkEdPU-Ns0IEZYFignZBz53Gs7DNEBCRTmABF1IQPz4ykw4qtopXqgHsPtHtp11bJ3UgODFIE7sE7BUK48CDDlQ51twAc8JTw/w640-h424/_TJB2151_HDR.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p>We discovered afterwards in a write-up that the property is owned by a person local to the town and that he is quite happy for people to go in there and get a tour at no charge. We still don't know who the person is who let us in but he was kind and friendly and I wish I had had some spare change for him.</p><p>We took a leisurely drive back on the other main road to Monchique - to Portimao - a busy town just north of Lagos but turned off on the highway to bring us back to our AirBnb.</p><p>I'm constantly evaluating these towns and the properties against the "could I live here" metric. Anne would say my bar is too low because I have often told her that I could live in a box but I do find it interesting to see what is on offer in the realtors' windows.</p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEHK3IZAUwWCkYFpg6b_nfM4znxyuWtq1QqaZi3Mfwjpg0s_isvSFzfp64Hj2nLXLEwpKNasubI0QNf6UbOKPZCpu7TXeyWij4K6RgZEyecDKpQR3gDryVEiwaH-rJaikUIpvToyyr5CPRzQRAcGRlx11i9wnUs1LrwtdU4GoF1PidWX3UpGEHSis0/s4000/_TJB2111.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2667" data-original-width="4000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEHK3IZAUwWCkYFpg6b_nfM4znxyuWtq1QqaZi3Mfwjpg0s_isvSFzfp64Hj2nLXLEwpKNasubI0QNf6UbOKPZCpu7TXeyWij4K6RgZEyecDKpQR3gDryVEiwaH-rJaikUIpvToyyr5CPRzQRAcGRlx11i9wnUs1LrwtdU4GoF1PidWX3UpGEHSis0/w640-h426/_TJB2111.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Real estate office behind Anne at the restaurant<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br />For the first time since getting here the realtors' window didn't feature large beautiful homes of over $1 million but rather featured many dilapidated houses, some on large farms for under $100 000. One that struck my eye was a farm of over 1000m2 with three homes on it for $450 000. A little pricey and of course got me wondering if these houses had permits to be fixed up. From the look of it one of the 3 houses was in reasonably good shape but the other two were a mess.<p></p><p>We'll be back in the area in a few months with a more critical eye, looking more seriously for a place that we can long to return to after a 2 week vacation somewhere.<br /></p>Timhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12828578695145994984noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8344844421099848427.post-47520214924018274762023-04-23T14:55:00.001-07:002023-04-23T14:59:57.194-07:00Portugal: Tango Juliet and Adonis<p>The default main road intersections in Portugal are rotaries and it took us a little time to figure out the polite way to use them while driving.</p><p></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Portugal_road_sign_D4.svg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="Gigillo83, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0>, via Wikimedia Commons"><img alt="Portugal road sign D4" height="320" src="https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/9f/Portugal_road_sign_D4.svg/512px-Portugal_road_sign_D4.svg.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr></tbody></table> Like in America, the person entering the rotary has to give way to anyone already in the rotary. Drivers tend to use their indicators to signal their intent as they enter the rotary - a left indicator means that you don't intend to take the next exit and a right indicator means you're about to exit. What's more, if there are two lanes in the rotary, the outer lane is reserved for cars that have just entered and will immediately exit the rotary. <br /><p></p><p>Of course plenty of people don't know all of these rules so you might find yourself in the inner lane indicating that you will exit at the next exit only to be blocked by someone in the outer lane who fully intends to keep going around the rotary for an undefined number of exits. Usually these people are tourists from countries who don't have many rotaries or countries where rules of the road are treated as rough guidelines rather than rules.<br /></p><p>Anne and I found navigating through the rotaries a little tricky when we started driving around in the Algarve with the GPS. I was concentrating on the road and had a heads up display on the dashboard that warned me of rotaries coming up but gave an imprecise view of which exit I had to take. Soon Anne was telling me "go straight through" or "turn right" but when you have rotaries with 5 exits you have to be a little more precise so I suggested that Anne use the military co-ordinates on a watch-face to explain which exit to take once in the rotary. I "mansplained" that your 6 is behind you ("watch my 6") and 12 o'clock is go straight through etc. </p><p>It didn't take long before Anne starting calling me Tango Juliet and saying things like "take your 11, tango juliet" as we approached the next rotary. It didn't help that I kept getting confused and having to go all the way around once more because I thought my 9 was my 3.</p><p>My cousin, Trevor and his wife and her sister-in-law (who is also
looking at Portugal as a destination), met us for lunch at a cliff-side restaurant called Sitio do Forno
not far from our Aljezur house-sit,<br /></p><p>Everywhere you go
here on the south west coast there are high, steep cliffs, many of which
have these hidden beaches that are reachable via paths, stairways or
roads with only a little parking available. It reminds me each time
what a nightmare it must be in the summer if you don't live within
walking distance of the beaches.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9GiB2gZLRbjXB_YLLGNw6sCw_EBHzQVEHaDm1zo9Xbjq16Hbs1Z0R6M_QWwkVSnIz32Q2h_LcFMwU-rei4qqipZ88sKRQyqL8zpaoThHk-kF0a_ue-Gm88-StChU83s3ZoX9rIoldwNOhQgE5xDeosPGBX6Xhj8yaklSL0AEMvQMjUPxeWRFUrTVk/s4032/IMG_4168.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9GiB2gZLRbjXB_YLLGNw6sCw_EBHzQVEHaDm1zo9Xbjq16Hbs1Z0R6M_QWwkVSnIz32Q2h_LcFMwU-rei4qqipZ88sKRQyqL8zpaoThHk-kF0a_ue-Gm88-StChU83s3ZoX9rIoldwNOhQgE5xDeosPGBX6Xhj8yaklSL0AEMvQMjUPxeWRFUrTVk/w640-h480/IMG_4168.HEIC" width="640" /></a></div><p></p>After Aljezur we had to take a trip back to Faro to return our rental car. We had decided to rent another car because the areas that we still want to see are more remote than a bus or Uber would take us. I'm not even sure whether Uber works down in the Algarve like it did in Porto where it was a fairly cheap option for getting around.<p></p><p>We stayed in a little AirBnb for three nights in a less affluent part of a town called Quarteira which allowed us to go for morning walks on the beach and was close to the car rental place. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi806TCViHJXpHcowWQIlnxdiuyL8QpCqQ1WdkOJtzZJM8lNnfECcGIaliybkCN99SeI9zvFk0Nl08yJgiRSAC2uq7KPLyRqe1QNTaA5MxRPEKUTVADG-p13xL8mvni1PHeUrSY1eezhhNH8E_Bmz26UafFcsGW2WnMEIYz8ZkC6ijE8JGfCQobNSyL/s1024/WhatsApp%20Image%202023-04-23%20at%2011.16.25.jpeg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi806TCViHJXpHcowWQIlnxdiuyL8QpCqQ1WdkOJtzZJM8lNnfECcGIaliybkCN99SeI9zvFk0Nl08yJgiRSAC2uq7KPLyRqe1QNTaA5MxRPEKUTVADG-p13xL8mvni1PHeUrSY1eezhhNH8E_Bmz26UafFcsGW2WnMEIYz8ZkC6ijE8JGfCQobNSyL/w320-h240/WhatsApp%20Image%202023-04-23%20at%2011.16.25.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div>An interesting feature of many homes in Portugal are these blinds - they are usually outside the window and get lowered down. If you lower them completely they allow no light into the room and cut down on noise from outside. In this AirBnb we lifted the blinds a little to allow some air in at night but the morning light coming through the gaps made for a good way to wake up.<p></p><p>Our brief stop in Faro also allowed us to visit two people who had unexpectedly reached out to us. Both of them
live in Quinta do Lago on the outskirts of the town of Almancil just north of Faro. </p><p>The first was an ex-Rhodes university friend, Erik, who is living with his lovely family in a large resort. It was very cool to catch up with him and to meet his wife and children. They have had a pretty adventurous life - having met in England and then traveled extensively for a couple of years before settling down to live in Portugal.</p><p>The second, our son-in-law's aunt, has lived in France and now Portugal and has an incredible home in Almancil. She is a painter and wildlife photographer and had some interesting stories to tell about her experiences. </p><p>We took a drive to a nearby beach after spending the morning with her. The beaches in the Algrave are so long and almost empty at this time of year.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCFt7s_wup28eUSE03NO7mlOkTtnNeqPlEj2RlGdZ-FL0VOQpX7_cCgQDYxOKbk2qlPhskJgbC7smQyTUrnQD3YWQK44DNrE1WsKludoBmXO5wK7y5fxJS2mwgesYbht-0k3t2SfkB_slySBfMk-omRCcGbbm2TdbG_hbsv6Hf-VfPyItpSOL-sF4M/s3088/IMG_4180.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2316" data-original-width="3088" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCFt7s_wup28eUSE03NO7mlOkTtnNeqPlEj2RlGdZ-FL0VOQpX7_cCgQDYxOKbk2qlPhskJgbC7smQyTUrnQD3YWQK44DNrE1WsKludoBmXO5wK7y5fxJS2mwgesYbht-0k3t2SfkB_slySBfMk-omRCcGbbm2TdbG_hbsv6Hf-VfPyItpSOL-sF4M/w640-h480/IMG_4180.HEIC" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p>Most interesting for me has been to hear stories about the transition from wanting to move, to deciding where, and then making it happen. There are so many hidden details to all of this and it reminds me somewhat of when we decided to leave South Africa in the early "aughts" (Americans call the 2000-2009 the "aughts" and the Brits call it the "noughties"). One of the things immediately apparent to me then was that the more resources you have, the more likely you would act on any second thoughts and bail on your move when things get tough. Having fewer resources more or less commits you to your destination regardless of whether the choice was really the best one and ironically makes the move and transition easier because you have no choice but to work through all the problems in your new place.<br /></p><p>So now, thinking of retiring somewhere closer to where our grandchildren are and within easy reach of our sons, puts Europe and England in contention, but where? Having spent two years learning Spanish made it the obvious first choice but we have been persuaded to check out other places. So here we are.<br /></p><p>It's still too early to say what we think, to be honest. We spent a little time in Spain last year and now a little more time in Portugal. England is next and then, probably, a longer rental in one of these three areas for a few months to get more serious about where to go and what it will take to make the move.</p><p>Aljezur has really appealed to us - wild and fairly remote but only 30mins drive from Lagos by car (so within reach of facilities that we might need). </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHMRbrZ_BnsNFtQGccQYzPHs8DvXRMPvOxJHQj7xPZIgtGXPF27ZAdgOduGiYKRwUMEKIH2BxcyE9F3D5SLz-JsL9HeFaEi0ry3UztQYPezxqdv-c89fQqPL3fgXM2atCQtlJT-9g3MWADyVOxkgkirdrG-HYxKnZZ8VkEYmCsnqJr7G0acJlus88S/s4032/IMG_4198.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHMRbrZ_BnsNFtQGccQYzPHs8DvXRMPvOxJHQj7xPZIgtGXPF27ZAdgOduGiYKRwUMEKIH2BxcyE9F3D5SLz-JsL9HeFaEi0ry3UztQYPezxqdv-c89fQqPL3fgXM2atCQtlJT-9g3MWADyVOxkgkirdrG-HYxKnZZ8VkEYmCsnqJr7G0acJlus88S/w640-h480/IMG_4198.HEIC" width="640" /></a></div>After our house-sit in Aljezur we settled on a small town called Carrapateira in the southern most part of the Aljezur region, not far north of Sagres. Our AirBnb is not more than a 5min walk from the beach.<p></p><p></p><p></p><p>Anne and I drove up north one morning of this week to visit a town called Odeceixe (pronounced "<span class="ILfuVd" lang="en"><span class="hgKElc">udd-sesh"). I know! The relationship between how letters look and sound in Portuguese is confusing for us too. We have learned that any word ending with an "s" is said with an "sh" and many vowels are dropped or combined to make a single syllable. Learning Portuguese would be a really big task.<br /></span></span></p><p><span class="ILfuVd" lang="en"><span class="hgKElc">The beach in </span></span>Odeceixe<span class="ILfuVd" lang="en"><span class="hgKElc"> is described as one of the most beautiful beaches in Portugal. The town is on a steep hillside and the beach is very broad and long, but is snuggled in a cove of high cliffs.</span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0QYJjpByi8q_ofetZzFlQZTruSSSgSpo26InUtMZPxVIIo2n-6v5yZU_uJHNuqfhaqc1I2VmRsIHPtJAxGB5P5a-k1zTy65G88ha2mAlcEMV7dwbmMCNMiV2pdmh3C0IKVDvw6i7S4WDIybLz7894AxypxLKtqNgjW3GKBOI4JnGMs5T9NtaKyQQf/s6332/IMG_4184.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3880" data-original-width="6332" height="392" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0QYJjpByi8q_ofetZzFlQZTruSSSgSpo26InUtMZPxVIIo2n-6v5yZU_uJHNuqfhaqc1I2VmRsIHPtJAxGB5P5a-k1zTy65G88ha2mAlcEMV7dwbmMCNMiV2pdmh3C0IKVDvw6i7S4WDIybLz7894AxypxLKtqNgjW3GKBOI4JnGMs5T9NtaKyQQf/w640-h392/IMG_4184.HEIC" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p><span class="ILfuVd" lang="en"><span class="hgKElc">We saw a sign that announced that to the left of this beach is a naturist beach and after walking its length we came back to see that the tide was low enough for us to walk around to the almost deserted clothing-optional beach. A single person way on the other side of the beach appeared to be enjoying the freedom it offered.</span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsoLqdVV59Abo5fx493CrwdhHChYkjqz25lXKiHtPeY9RuzVzW2s-FAQQq3sqaT0z_U7Am63NMHC5OmmzUjOVILI71A49xqZFx_h27IOREMZJjw3lwTHW-eo5EVoxFjck316Qb_ffB9UPnw-XKRxn_T0ovvhHm-xqKdugDpUOQVlJ6ejejN7uvvaoI/s7132/IMG_4192.HEIC" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3840" data-original-width="7132" height="344" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsoLqdVV59Abo5fx493CrwdhHChYkjqz25lXKiHtPeY9RuzVzW2s-FAQQq3sqaT0z_U7Am63NMHC5OmmzUjOVILI71A49xqZFx_h27IOREMZJjw3lwTHW-eo5EVoxFjck316Qb_ffB9UPnw-XKRxn_T0ovvhHm-xqKdugDpUOQVlJ6ejejN7uvvaoI/w640-h344/IMG_4192.HEIC" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><span class="ILfuVd" lang="en"><span class="hgKElc">Anne and I took a quick dip au naturel before making our way back up for lunch at a restaurant overlooking the main beach.</span></span><p><span class="ILfuVd" lang="en"><span class="hgKElc">The AirBnb we have for these two weeks is a short walk from a really wide beach. The breeze is cool but the waves are impressive and Anne couldn't resist buying a body board. </span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0COa-Q8OrJWTg19HBltxa4lm_YCX0Nv0CiSJhmqUAvMabzVzinBohuLO1CN3GOgQhn7Rii8lpJ4gUdX-SEZjggxTffExmoyz4WaaLUJeGdYiNETGt9WuC0FoN9456t3wbk1NNEO2Proo8_WncxDt2GO8Jm8LikmwRLJL78zFg0DLGkXGoW7S_Ot50/s4032/IMG_E4196.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0COa-Q8OrJWTg19HBltxa4lm_YCX0Nv0CiSJhmqUAvMabzVzinBohuLO1CN3GOgQhn7Rii8lpJ4gUdX-SEZjggxTffExmoyz4WaaLUJeGdYiNETGt9WuC0FoN9456t3wbk1NNEO2Proo8_WncxDt2GO8Jm8LikmwRLJL78zFg0DLGkXGoW7S_Ot50/w640-h480/IMG_E4196.HEIC" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>We can spend the morning walking on the beach until my start of the business day in the afternoon so this is a pretty good way to balance these two things.</p><p>On Sunday we saw two kite surfers moving across the water at high speed with their boards. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKsi5e7VKJqLtJZqQBi4ZbKdoHraBXJvcz-VIHbILqekHTaF1M6ArnKmXVDLk1wDXeETANL5q4wQtypoPByTuVX2AsJI8bpveWVKy6NlOh2Kohl8vPSjAH4QvRDa_PFFrtaeAblfAd_LPqnamaYj4sj4tYd1kSFFjI6P0fq52cL17xqfthW208_3lZ/s2876/IMG_4203.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2322" data-original-width="2876" height="516" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKsi5e7VKJqLtJZqQBi4ZbKdoHraBXJvcz-VIHbILqekHTaF1M6ArnKmXVDLk1wDXeETANL5q4wQtypoPByTuVX2AsJI8bpveWVKy6NlOh2Kohl8vPSjAH4QvRDa_PFFrtaeAblfAd_LPqnamaYj4sj4tYd1kSFFjI6P0fq52cL17xqfthW208_3lZ/w640-h516/IMG_4203.HEIC" width="640" /></a></div><br />A very strenuous activity in the stiff sea breeze.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dyID1eG32E36EJiEkrP4dDCRY2LuCk6vG0W-klxt7v0Wb0c6kKCdrAEmUI4h5Jtzfe2FGvTy9LUydeYvYLueQ' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><br /><br /><p></p><p></p>Timhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12828578695145994984noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8344844421099848427.post-4609523477524833232023-04-15T03:53:00.005-07:002023-04-15T03:54:49.131-07:00Portugal: Aljezur (or thereabouts)<p>Aljezur means "of islands" in Arabic and has been inhabited since pre-history (some evidence from 7000 BC) with nomadic tribes. Settlements started in around 3000BC but the largest expansion of buildings started in the 10th Century with the Muslim occupation of Spain and Portugal. The Moors ruled for around 500 years from the 10th Century until the region was taken from them by the Christians in 1249. The coastal towns in near Aljezur were plagued by pirates who attacked and kidnapped people to be sold as slaves in Algiers until as late as the 17th Century.</p><p>The landscape here is quite different from what we had seen as we traveled along the coast from Tavira and Lagos. To the east of Aljezur, not far from the coast, is the Serra de Monchique which is a chain of mountains just under 1000m (3200ft) high and so the drive from Lagos to Aljezur included a fairly winding road which again reminded us of the landscape of the Eastern Cape in South Africa and the drive from the coast to Makhanda (which was known as Grahamstown when we lived there in the 1980s and 1990s).</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie3j8zMEGzOJHwiLdWTDgXZwsfer2uoe4FM9N6TLUQUQUKpapExSnvMhJ6qbYtSs5Jbp05Bx8nGRbQSvop7GDOm-4mEyRqykZjq3SMzvorWarRJi3SfT8C6fMhnUKQ8dMu6a-wCYK4MTEV16LKuYz2HB25kQNNvYez6BKDOikKE5Vo5BWxYSpRYTTx/s3994/_TJB2060.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2663" data-original-width="3994" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie3j8zMEGzOJHwiLdWTDgXZwsfer2uoe4FM9N6TLUQUQUKpapExSnvMhJ6qbYtSs5Jbp05Bx8nGRbQSvop7GDOm-4mEyRqykZjq3SMzvorWarRJi3SfT8C6fMhnUKQ8dMu6a-wCYK4MTEV16LKuYz2HB25kQNNvYez6BKDOikKE5Vo5BWxYSpRYTTx/w640-h426/_TJB2060.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p>The entire area is protected and we saw many more trees along the route. We had decided to not take the main road from Lagos but rather to drive again to Sagres and then take the smaller road between Sagres and Aljezur. The driving was a little hairy with the narrow and twisty road with a speed limit of 90km/h (55mph), which felt a little fast for the road.</p><p></p>Our week in Aljezur is another house-sit. The home is actually a little west of Aljezur (which is built in a valley) up on the hills in a settlement called Vale da Telha that was founded in 1977. The area has suffered from problems caused by the fact that it is built in a nature reserve and with little infrastructure for services. As a result the area was described as "chaotic and without infrastructure" by the mayor of Aljezur in 2021. A development plan is underway to set in motion the creation of services for the area.<p></p><p>From google maps it looks like a very modern street plan with a grid, lots of cul-de-sacs and rotaries and so I imagined that we'd see very modern houses filling the area. <br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8KdGJOJzHfMISE9LuKasi_YzK_UQFPqhJrybI-WH5Rf4lHfLH1WeMEU2OujddJ1Cf9PGSZVbe1eKb7pixoGL4C1RRlrF2vEh7RRb_N6TEZuDkVbakTADdwmiaPYUOboIwcDA1lsNcMhd7pVNGqq4ntqvZmaHMFesnGxbFIp9_7uxrFGyFBvCSEdCt/s1470/Screenshot%202023-04-13%20at%207.26.55%20AM.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1120" data-original-width="1470" height="488" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8KdGJOJzHfMISE9LuKasi_YzK_UQFPqhJrybI-WH5Rf4lHfLH1WeMEU2OujddJ1Cf9PGSZVbe1eKb7pixoGL4C1RRlrF2vEh7RRb_N6TEZuDkVbakTADdwmiaPYUOboIwcDA1lsNcMhd7pVNGqq4ntqvZmaHMFesnGxbFIp9_7uxrFGyFBvCSEdCt/w640-h488/Screenshot%202023-04-13%20at%207.26.55%20AM.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p></p><p>To the contrary the area is underdeveloped with a number of large and expensive houses interspersed with empty plots, abandoned construction and small single-story houses and the streets are in fairly rough shape. Not terrible, just obviously not in the rotation for regular repaving when they need it.<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibGGoecrLWtUGiIXVnde5kxZ_crmSkSn10mPenG1aJapWon7GMAJQobxKF2D0Qhe9QfYPSUwkeo5IDf9PgqDO0_DAwVFof6zlQuUpdSAAAkHDPXnh3IDpOI3GEWAjrxJk88cMklYT37ycdXR25qEza8IeMVB2tMBZlNJoBPzpH3XAA-yAJF9pKNE2i/s4032/IMG_4131.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibGGoecrLWtUGiIXVnde5kxZ_crmSkSn10mPenG1aJapWon7GMAJQobxKF2D0Qhe9QfYPSUwkeo5IDf9PgqDO0_DAwVFof6zlQuUpdSAAAkHDPXnh3IDpOI3GEWAjrxJk88cMklYT37ycdXR25qEza8IeMVB2tMBZlNJoBPzpH3XAA-yAJF9pKNE2i/w640-h480/IMG_4131.HEIC" width="640" /></a></div>Our hosts told us that the street lights were a new addition (they have been living here for some time) and that although there are buses that run regularly they have only recently installed bus stops.<p>A number of British and European immigrants have moved to this area and there has been pressure to get the services upgraded on the strength of their tax contribution to the region and it appears that the town of Aljezur has been working on this for some years.</p><p>The entire settlement and surrounds appears to be built on sea sand. Walking paths are all loose sea sand with thriving vegetation (bushes and grasses) on either side. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXgt4T5mIOU3rTXRzEYLOKqFQdCgM3g83hsqA0qxQyR969lMuWb_-zI9ladtFNjh2IEDpgygjIAs9mlAa0UAyyuVpp1GlAxwggjDGthqXV_5ETWs4D9ZAsGQoFSfnYsisTUpD77U2gFGDKf-0YV0TGKYEfbZyGN6i2ZfQg96zPmJkHo6VeU3NWCzyQ/s8870/IMG_4136.heic" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3610" data-original-width="8870" height="260" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXgt4T5mIOU3rTXRzEYLOKqFQdCgM3g83hsqA0qxQyR969lMuWb_-zI9ladtFNjh2IEDpgygjIAs9mlAa0UAyyuVpp1GlAxwggjDGthqXV_5ETWs4D9ZAsGQoFSfnYsisTUpD77U2gFGDKf-0YV0TGKYEfbZyGN6i2ZfQg96zPmJkHo6VeU3NWCzyQ/w640-h260/IMG_4136.heic" width="640" /></a></div>House-sitting requires some adjustments to our routine. This one had two sweet older dogs that we were warned could wander off on our walks and a black and white cat who is pretty domesticated and two other cats who came to the house when the owners moved in but have since become more "outside" cats, returning occasionally for food. We saw one of them once and another that came by regularly for food but came into the house with a great deal of trepidation.<p></p><p>We were told that the dogs would ask to sit on the couch with us and might try to get on the bed but we should not allow it.</p><p>So we settled down for our first night on the eve of Easter Sunday with the two dogs asleep on their beds, one on each side of our bed.</p><p>Anne (I might have mentioned) startles easily and once we were fast asleep the cat decided to jump onto her without warning. She woke with a loud shriek that terrified the cat and the dog next to her instinctively went into attack mode. The cat was gone from the room before it lost its life and Anne and I were left in a flight or fight stance with adrenaline raging through our bodies. "What the hell just happened!?"</p><p>Anne settled back down and we started to laugh uncontrollably. In a pause, I asked: "Did you remember to hide easter eggs for me?" Which had us in fits of laughter again.</p><p>We didn't see the cat again that night and figured out a routine after that to make our nights less alarming without disrupting the dogs' and cat's routines too much. <br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqo6naX6RBts5YSW7SHcljfDcOKluUMhjwZHFSYgnmn8jI-OJta25SU3Y3ec1ABVYk3XRv68pzszLjrOlzZZS7780Fbzo43hBt62AZpdZLGW2Vm2tyFSBqmYctJtSdF6SDSQpBr1Ez2fF9_2yjWt0dHgZtDesOtjeYvNY6YxD6wzdtRGgX0WgTjoHl/s4000/_TJB2063.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2667" data-original-width="4000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqo6naX6RBts5YSW7SHcljfDcOKluUMhjwZHFSYgnmn8jI-OJta25SU3Y3ec1ABVYk3XRv68pzszLjrOlzZZS7780Fbzo43hBt62AZpdZLGW2Vm2tyFSBqmYctJtSdF6SDSQpBr1Ez2fF9_2yjWt0dHgZtDesOtjeYvNY6YxD6wzdtRGgX0WgTjoHl/w640-h426/_TJB2063.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>House-sitting also has the advantage of getting you out to walk the
dogs. We explored some of the nature reserve that surrounds the
settlement - including a 45min walk on a path that is regularly used for
horse riding and then a longer walk to this magnificent beach that
apparently is pretty hard to get to without a long hike. </p><p>We thought that we saw a way to get down to it from the top of the cliff but we were already pretty exhausted from walking on the path from where we had parked. So we have left that for another day.<br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2iYEQtW9h5BylCwbBNLh9RBmsW9WOFZihcRiv-qQ2dI77pQsKLZ0laLmZ52mgH295d4g1p6HcR-psZM4WEQdjHLKoXDEnu_rdjjr0gvH5sMpFvIe_CBhvHKuqt20oGMKnxAhT15KeE07UKng9PE5nD44-JcwpKS5rnvSn_ZpsGGPkpfTHAAAGYOj6/s9936/IMG_4138.HEIC" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3764" data-original-width="9936" height="242" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2iYEQtW9h5BylCwbBNLh9RBmsW9WOFZihcRiv-qQ2dI77pQsKLZ0laLmZ52mgH295d4g1p6HcR-psZM4WEQdjHLKoXDEnu_rdjjr0gvH5sMpFvIe_CBhvHKuqt20oGMKnxAhT15KeE07UKng9PE5nD44-JcwpKS5rnvSn_ZpsGGPkpfTHAAAGYOj6/w640-h242/IMG_4138.HEIC" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The cliff looks deceptively easy in this panorama - it is too steep to go down<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p>The town of Aljezur is packed with rows of apartment blocks well-suited to the summer holiday maker. We visited the castle in the old town center from which we had views of the landscape around and of the newer part of the town.<br /></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9zqVbHh8Ar5dmBIdCgHk0_Iey_4v3m7gNOKSqK_uhmPMXafIFMFsuBvonG8YLpsIzXv4h7SiuUWDz2r8XgbQgW_PL6DTRWowx2bbYlvJJ6Wbcoe4hkvTqlfjOPnJ4i62ykhbcg53S1lFK3ouo569uaCRvtu1b1avK6yz-yPDBqsZBAsZwGPUA67lk/s3088/IMG_4152.HEIC" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2316" data-original-width="3088" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9zqVbHh8Ar5dmBIdCgHk0_Iey_4v3m7gNOKSqK_uhmPMXafIFMFsuBvonG8YLpsIzXv4h7SiuUWDz2r8XgbQgW_PL6DTRWowx2bbYlvJJ6Wbcoe4hkvTqlfjOPnJ4i62ykhbcg53S1lFK3ouo569uaCRvtu1b1avK6yz-yPDBqsZBAsZwGPUA67lk/w640-h480/IMG_4152.HEIC" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9kEkkzTrWRtQZ0qqp7IUmiqHmCnxCZ-xW2J38QgSPx0Eca5lq8jr-nQdk4-8OYd_mwPA7-wBbuj6CZPX0CJaxZtwnP1Gwmvag8XbvYNPhbCQmen84vVoVFTodKWVEjzfE5DZojZszPoyXRTV4zY9CgaO6SIgaPgMMwbJMl1UDmlgHm0E1TA0yiwVW/s4032/IMG_4145.HEIC" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><br /></a></div><p></p><p>The streets and houses in the older center of town are as charming as in the other towns we've visited in the Algarve. <img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9kEkkzTrWRtQZ0qqp7IUmiqHmCnxCZ-xW2J38QgSPx0Eca5lq8jr-nQdk4-8OYd_mwPA7-wBbuj6CZPX0CJaxZtwnP1Gwmvag8XbvYNPhbCQmen84vVoVFTodKWVEjzfE5DZojZszPoyXRTV4zY9CgaO6SIgaPgMMwbJMl1UDmlgHm0E1TA0yiwVW/w640-h480/IMG_4145.HEIC" width="640" /></p><p>Quite a few of the houses are in good shape. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjblQod0ue8CAD_TwvYZI_ifWybpjac99GrDEou0LFuSAKlmCVf1fjwfHiHyKlBXUXRZpopCbZCfJfJ_TMw-HgzWsAV_FR_MAmaea4vviWeyK5qn5ZQp-XSYoo8OZJd1uXcoaemNj7lUcYKVjYxf3duPD8vFkMoFWRojbt5bNbIpmtd-HcvEd0dr4jd/s4032/IMG_4144.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjblQod0ue8CAD_TwvYZI_ifWybpjac99GrDEou0LFuSAKlmCVf1fjwfHiHyKlBXUXRZpopCbZCfJfJ_TMw-HgzWsAV_FR_MAmaea4vviWeyK5qn5ZQp-XSYoo8OZJd1uXcoaemNj7lUcYKVjYxf3duPD8vFkMoFWRojbt5bNbIpmtd-HcvEd0dr4jd/w640-h480/IMG_4144.HEIC" width="640" /> </a> <br /></div><p><br />We wondered about driving up and down these narrow streets, some of which had tight turns and barely fit two cars abreast.<br /></p><p></p><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif9YleuRLWA6OqQZy0VhmLXx5Dzn44IBhAEn9WxXNEhV5jK-PceWdQAwdemvaACj1xFLs9TTyLs_JOrNuqTTF3tENLbOQ-fOQrMFVA0etJ69wmhfyIL19zdFC2f2bZQPSfIk6zYvzO8vplt2FGsTP7BrzXCeLemFPRKXtMvP6Kd2c56XXgO6SKomrc/s7994/IMG_4149.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3842" data-original-width="7994" height="308" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif9YleuRLWA6OqQZy0VhmLXx5Dzn44IBhAEn9WxXNEhV5jK-PceWdQAwdemvaACj1xFLs9TTyLs_JOrNuqTTF3tENLbOQ-fOQrMFVA0etJ69wmhfyIL19zdFC2f2bZQPSfIk6zYvzO8vplt2FGsTP7BrzXCeLemFPRKXtMvP6Kd2c56XXgO6SKomrc/w640-h308/IMG_4149.HEIC" width="640" /></a></p>Some of them, built under the castle, have stunning views of the valley. In this case overlooking the new town with the big supermarket in front of the rows of apartments.<br /><p></p><p>There are two streams that converge at the town and it boasts a series of trails that you can walk.<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiooOMVxJfgeJVAaSqd3nDEAlJM5m4A1UIfRHAt6j4aOeuS8Hw8W5wUtYQpEZw3kIVIilQwGmMTetYx5TOVlZbsuYYHGwzZtu5I5EynmCMcTS4hBnLqLWfYe9RSKC2K6J7ecsLOtv_oel1XbjXLWrwgW15Z4TDGecdOa7eGINROIOoB8yZxbC11C98L/s4032/IMG_4140.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiooOMVxJfgeJVAaSqd3nDEAlJM5m4A1UIfRHAt6j4aOeuS8Hw8W5wUtYQpEZw3kIVIilQwGmMTetYx5TOVlZbsuYYHGwzZtu5I5EynmCMcTS4hBnLqLWfYe9RSKC2K6J7ecsLOtv_oel1XbjXLWrwgW15Z4TDGecdOa7eGINROIOoB8yZxbC11C98L/w640-h480/IMG_4140.HEIC" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p>The town is also on the path of the <a href="https://rotavicentina.com/en/caminho-historico/#filter=r-fullyTranslatedLangus-">Rota Vicentina</a> which is a 750km (466mi) long trail along the west coast of Portugal. The trail also passes in the vicinity of our house-sit and was a feature of our twice-daily dog walking while we stayed there.</p><p>We visited an overlook near our house-sit that was once a Muslim fortification called the "Ribat of Arrifana". It was built in 1130 under the direction of one of the prominent leaders in the Iberian Muslim occupied territory. He was later assassinated after being accused of betraying Islam by followers of the Almohad movement, a powerful Berber dynasty that eventually ruled southern Iberia and the Algarve. The ribat fell into disrepair after his death. </p><p>In 2001 archeologists began to excavate the ruins. There are fences around two of the areas that still show evidence of walls.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjElzZEuWUZ3fflqcQWUBQW1905FkSFg_KcRZOavLvfxz5_chUiVLWRs6KbwUNgCHpcbeu9Twluda-v0ky9_xhC6crKgndHX5cB3xdp78qqQoSCTAw4FoxutgEaLQLmv90MKotVg96E3Wr0h2ckr4Qlg0oM8yWKFUmnzbkLgKhnXWJ4Xy_nHsRm1UQQ/s4032/IMG_4153.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjElzZEuWUZ3fflqcQWUBQW1905FkSFg_KcRZOavLvfxz5_chUiVLWRs6KbwUNgCHpcbeu9Twluda-v0ky9_xhC6crKgndHX5cB3xdp78qqQoSCTAw4FoxutgEaLQLmv90MKotVg96E3Wr0h2ckr4Qlg0oM8yWKFUmnzbkLgKhnXWJ4Xy_nHsRm1UQQ/w640-h480/IMG_4153.HEIC" width="640" /></a></div><br />The views from this site are as impressive as any of the cliffs in the western part of the Algrave<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1VDmS-4Irl_Dk5b54JCNnJc1kEpPaM2C2hJF5hB1wI04zKBePrxo7qB2LHVOsH7kX46aXdwJ2kFiXJDRK2gcbfIgPIIVyeqcfh5l2sIcDnYlkwL-IH_VPMO3oUhvx1NZjADp5w5gpDpvexBQurOUTTMDD9rdoJ_1c9koskQTqhGCZ_FIY-4EXBRkK/s6992/IMG_4157.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3928" data-original-width="6992" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1VDmS-4Irl_Dk5b54JCNnJc1kEpPaM2C2hJF5hB1wI04zKBePrxo7qB2LHVOsH7kX46aXdwJ2kFiXJDRK2gcbfIgPIIVyeqcfh5l2sIcDnYlkwL-IH_VPMO3oUhvx1NZjADp5w5gpDpvexBQurOUTTMDD9rdoJ_1c9koskQTqhGCZ_FIY-4EXBRkK/w640-h360/IMG_4157.HEIC" width="640" /></a></div>including a massive rock that appears to have broken off from the cliff - and shows long straight lines of sediment that are now vertically oriented.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir3rgOvVj1rK5_0T9V9Y5ycE2pITP68kZJIZKaUcGIPXtUsGC3QtwNCIYHYA4jrhQGTGaxyFV3E_N7aLDc8ZKqf7q0r1BjKs50a2sVj4hQrDH1DkZuYzkMgYD1R4Y2nM32gAgEJH2mQ_x0yCzZYwOeECqCUBnfBkiVYcK-4AU9rWy5I2MHFuGyWzA0/s4032/IMG_4158.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir3rgOvVj1rK5_0T9V9Y5ycE2pITP68kZJIZKaUcGIPXtUsGC3QtwNCIYHYA4jrhQGTGaxyFV3E_N7aLDc8ZKqf7q0r1BjKs50a2sVj4hQrDH1DkZuYzkMgYD1R4Y2nM32gAgEJH2mQ_x0yCzZYwOeECqCUBnfBkiVYcK-4AU9rWy5I2MHFuGyWzA0/w640-h480/IMG_4158.HEIC" width="640" /></a></div><p><br />Not far from us is a beach on a fairly narrow road called Monte Clerigo with a couple of restaurants. We took some time one morning to get coffee and cake and walk the beach. </p><p>On one side are interesting rock formations with rock pools. They look like they were the center of a meteor strike because they have radiating circular patterns with a bull's eye in the middle.<br /><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimRQkMrZRQuvkp-aVJGrRzo5oKGLW_TUXopFPx9daeqqkviquDGgVuVMSGru1FdBtQq3kIfLeeMBUElTB4Yp28GRydY3M2N3HpV4TlfvgstXb-iV8Ihm_ZkwLtvyj9KyoKudJqVjeMvfqEmzZIySeea1DOUOaWl4_mUFOXu9B9BtZkhmVT9HM2nWF7/s8030/IMG_4166.HEIC" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3892" data-original-width="8030" height="310" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimRQkMrZRQuvkp-aVJGrRzo5oKGLW_TUXopFPx9daeqqkviquDGgVuVMSGru1FdBtQq3kIfLeeMBUElTB4Yp28GRydY3M2N3HpV4TlfvgstXb-iV8Ihm_ZkwLtvyj9KyoKudJqVjeMvfqEmzZIySeea1DOUOaWl4_mUFOXu9B9BtZkhmVT9HM2nWF7/w640-h310/IMG_4166.HEIC" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p>We are now six months into our travels. We sold our house and boarded an airplane a few days later. <br /></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><p></p><p>We'll be staying in Western Portugal for another few weeks and then onto more things.</p><p>I'm feeling more inclined to stay somewhere for few months because moving every two weeks is starting to wear a little thin. I think we are getting closer to a series of more realistic experiments in experiencing living where we might eventually end up.<br /></p><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br />Timhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12828578695145994984noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8344844421099848427.post-2165020768463011372023-04-07T01:40:00.005-07:002023-04-07T06:50:48.995-07:00Portal: Lagos - the devil is in the details<p>Lagos (pronounced "Largoosh") is in the South West of Portugal. The entire coast from east to west is under 2 hours of driving and so it was a short drive of about and hour to get from Tavira to my cousin, Trevor's house, which overlooks a golf course with a large green expanse of lawns.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggz8inr3rOxO5wi8HvI3WgxWjVn8p1nRYRwEpXLNCjaTh7cLsF-Zloi308BsvqUgQ0nECOzcvZWvkkOjqARPH83VKomQQ53HMtUolUjxaZV5FIw_qrHoU0K12lnsCfmaB3HXPk5yfNIQ38_3CabXr2rg4DqpofTWwj5rFlzVVzIw1su7Wv1qvFQ2oW/s2368/Screenshot%202023-04-04%20at%208.04.50%20AM.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="822" data-original-width="2368" height="222" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggz8inr3rOxO5wi8HvI3WgxWjVn8p1nRYRwEpXLNCjaTh7cLsF-Zloi308BsvqUgQ0nECOzcvZWvkkOjqARPH83VKomQQ53HMtUolUjxaZV5FIw_qrHoU0K12lnsCfmaB3HXPk5yfNIQ38_3CabXr2rg4DqpofTWwj5rFlzVVzIw1su7Wv1qvFQ2oW/w640-h222/Screenshot%202023-04-04%20at%208.04.50%20AM.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p>Trevor kindly hosted us for the weekend and took us sightseeing almost every day in the region around Lagos, starting with an hour-long walk on a loop to the cliffs overlooking beaches near their house and then for drives to beaches along the coast from Lagos to Sagres. </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhomjXrPkMxCXYFbtusC7PFVfyZL9QOXvjiBTMHjypM56QIIBX9imP3mne28rp57yLDMk4nLTIKATXjaOgyEqYU6Wa4wcRtGUNqGlrAXgUSSX6Qj0MZj6RjGYwg0hEyQsrSIkz7eLaoBHWBvBInex2H0qyDzthWR0A7NpWY0iADbnXQ2WfrMPI85wtB/s4000/_TJB1929.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2667" data-original-width="4000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhomjXrPkMxCXYFbtusC7PFVfyZL9QOXvjiBTMHjypM56QIIBX9imP3mne28rp57yLDMk4nLTIKATXjaOgyEqYU6Wa4wcRtGUNqGlrAXgUSSX6Qj0MZj6RjGYwg0hEyQsrSIkz7eLaoBHWBvBInex2H0qyDzthWR0A7NpWY0iADbnXQ2WfrMPI85wtB/w640-h426/_TJB1929.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The sign in Sagres (South East tip of Portugal) "the last Bratwurst before America"<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br />We had almost daily walks to different places of interest in and near the city in the week that followed.<br /><p></p><p> The coastline is incredibly beautiful. It is reminiscent of the Great Ocean Road that I visited when I went on a work trip to Australia in 2018. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgk1oaU8rUDwm5yCpPscVntl3mhSus5QeSXYEpu-FW3B-JfR5LdLb2VSdJ2w4jCUn2FX8lQ8nDHjjJyVTtxkBcpbAYffN3K-tFUr3q7OyvPdqYFqPT1mcMtdjGUNIG-K4wezN86Ad6F3cBwxxcey2HhhnvfOqxbpUi_XtgTgi--5nMUBDZXkFH5hFv7/s4000/_TJB1826-Pano.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1006" data-original-width="4000" height="160" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgk1oaU8rUDwm5yCpPscVntl3mhSus5QeSXYEpu-FW3B-JfR5LdLb2VSdJ2w4jCUn2FX8lQ8nDHjjJyVTtxkBcpbAYffN3K-tFUr3q7OyvPdqYFqPT1mcMtdjGUNIG-K4wezN86Ad6F3cBwxxcey2HhhnvfOqxbpUi_XtgTgi--5nMUBDZXkFH5hFv7/w640-h160/_TJB1826-Pano.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p>There are eroding rock sentinels in the sea and cliffs of tan-colored sandstone that appear to be crumbling. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmnM8hpu426mKuWhJAzG4LvpUhTw_kGC2a5d5HyIEIKjmMuSn2U8iju8azZ1ocWQyM3ORgDkVKCF9oiorjLcNF4IOaJtK4qbrJs-7HwMX_yaDNBIk0cPk90yEc9usar673sMjmNJJGsnERbqMc--8tOe9ATa9C5p4_U_MHhf_697xez4kyrC29xhxm/s4000/_TJB1813_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2653" data-original-width="4000" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmnM8hpu426mKuWhJAzG4LvpUhTw_kGC2a5d5HyIEIKjmMuSn2U8iju8azZ1ocWQyM3ORgDkVKCF9oiorjLcNF4IOaJtK4qbrJs-7HwMX_yaDNBIk0cPk90yEc9usar673sMjmNJJGsnERbqMc--8tOe9ATa9C5p4_U_MHhf_697xez4kyrC29xhxm/w640-h424/_TJB1813_HDR.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />and further along the coast some very vertical cliffs that are apparently a much harder rock.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2670" data-original-width="4000" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqNffP-cXDIskT6crfdZDsJQGEQEkMvVs7WFrNJUqADmUYW325dJXtjKymY0d1AV90JVejm6hOZTF8sRZaxWwUx6MqV91trYaOc4gNCRqoE8gHznV-aRWl3Md3QC5ybDLo_KNcE6dIDDr18RoNOOAlaOvZUP8xUqayo0H86OZmbivye3Klo37zkbvm/w640-h428/_TJB1948_HDR.jpg" width="640" /></div>and a little further along some banded sandstone cliffs<p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSa0lEZeHjnHR_y45eqUr0dyWU5h3_ZnERSIrwJAiYV8eHmd9svXE2PT4__sYlYMbTG--XKdGz786EnVdoMhnvpo7qZipTov6YKEl0lbukPWPqVFwSNVurF-rBmIbHsWz7Tcz2fXp-LQOVzbOFCQwvqdgPeYGuH2mIPMnYULlyUwYxCunpJZewwJ3l/s4000/_TJB1873_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2654" data-original-width="4000" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSa0lEZeHjnHR_y45eqUr0dyWU5h3_ZnERSIrwJAiYV8eHmd9svXE2PT4__sYlYMbTG--XKdGz786EnVdoMhnvpo7qZipTov6YKEl0lbukPWPqVFwSNVurF-rBmIbHsWz7Tcz2fXp-LQOVzbOFCQwvqdgPeYGuH2mIPMnYULlyUwYxCunpJZewwJ3l/w640-h424/_TJB1873_HDR.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>On one cliff is an old fortified stronghold - perhaps from when the Moors ruled Portugal and Spain - that looks as though it is going to end up in the sea at some point.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlH3ZK1_FdqtJexqQe23E4MGRIyJpHfjiA6F7EFe8AKTQCoP1jLoNe0xGvNY8XsmzO6S2E3uIGAfP6NZgJtCWwK6P4y71CYglLTaO7Lhw0IW2ws9_pJrdY3DJOmDbUaF1FTz_ZkPNhQdbWac4_6Ddzdxqel5r4QnOzQM879dM59ztNWNeS1E66_BdI/s4000/_TJB1930_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2659" data-original-width="4000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlH3ZK1_FdqtJexqQe23E4MGRIyJpHfjiA6F7EFe8AKTQCoP1jLoNe0xGvNY8XsmzO6S2E3uIGAfP6NZgJtCWwK6P4y71CYglLTaO7Lhw0IW2ws9_pJrdY3DJOmDbUaF1FTz_ZkPNhQdbWac4_6Ddzdxqel5r4QnOzQM879dM59ztNWNeS1E66_BdI/w640-h426/_TJB1930_HDR.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p>As you can imagine with all of this beautiful scenery the question on
our minds was "How did you get to live in such a beautiful place?" and
the answer was quite complicated.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWYELqpdAmpfocE0kFp-lGj8lRV05PIpJ72kXJcdb3xHyOXcr51S3tSsGI6S5iOzW0UodAsuEqHpDVN33JcAu6VkPuYXFTC-x7UyQcYcgd1UKh0FFcBWpQUnSvwtqWtaxt6pnpMBW8l6BFdIFA-l67E9zciTaZScyG_Y5w3SVI-uy056vMrhPkUtbx/s4032/IMG_4098.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWYELqpdAmpfocE0kFp-lGj8lRV05PIpJ72kXJcdb3xHyOXcr51S3tSsGI6S5iOzW0UodAsuEqHpDVN33JcAu6VkPuYXFTC-x7UyQcYcgd1UKh0FFcBWpQUnSvwtqWtaxt6pnpMBW8l6BFdIFA-l67E9zciTaZScyG_Y5w3SVI-uy056vMrhPkUtbx/w480-h640/IMG_4098.HEIC" width="480" /></a></div><p></p><p>Trevor and Charlotte, his wife, moved here some years ago after spending much of their working life in North Africa where his family had many good years but a few really harrowing experiences. His journey to the Algarve took a few years, starting with buying his house for vacations and then eventually settling here.</p><p>Over the few days of going on walks to and along the shoreline and hanging out with him, we got some new perspectives on what it takes to buy and own a home and then move to Portugal.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIcVUfnx3oXrvcHdNxrf7xmWM1up_2fXt3Mvc1CDW2ezg1k7ULv6bGD9sJuTJhirzx5T_hEUb6iNiZfM777tsLl5WQlW6D8TDqFxYVu5EtpLHWULP3aEV1MI0y93EjGtubiXbkYcaAGF-XA4n-p-xn4EV3ajjcEUaAsqpC-XC0nlkI9_iEPuc0-8rB/s4000/_TJB1849.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2667" data-original-width="4000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIcVUfnx3oXrvcHdNxrf7xmWM1up_2fXt3Mvc1CDW2ezg1k7ULv6bGD9sJuTJhirzx5T_hEUb6iNiZfM777tsLl5WQlW6D8TDqFxYVu5EtpLHWULP3aEV1MI0y93EjGtubiXbkYcaAGF-XA4n-p-xn4EV3ajjcEUaAsqpC-XC0nlkI9_iEPuc0-8rB/w640-h426/_TJB1849.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Trevor and Anne with an abandoned house on the horizon</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p>In Portugal, any modification outside of the home (including additions) requires permits from the authorities. If these permits are not registered in the equivalent of a deeds office, the additions are illegal. Most knowledgeable buyers use a trusted lawyer to verify that all of the existing buildings were built with a permit. Many sellers and realtors get fuzzy on the details of permits and try to pressure buyers to seal the deal before someone else does and then, without permits, insurance companies will refuse to cover the buildings.</p><p></p><p>Land-use laws in Portugal are complicated. Buildings and land can be classified in ways that prevent any repairs to old buildings, or the construction of any new buildings, so buying a piece of land might result in you owning something that you can't build on.<br /></p><p>We heard about someone who bought a smallholding of several acres only to find that the section of the smallholding that came to them was a tiny area of land on which the main house was built. The orchard and barns remained in the hands of the seller. Someone else bought a house to discover that most of the things that were attractive to them in the sale were added without permits and learned that they would have to demolish these "add-ons" or hoodwink the new buyer if they were ever to try to sell it again.</p><p>Many homes for sale in the Algarve priced at around $100k to $200k are basically unlivable and possibly irreparable (depending on how the houses have been zoned). The realtor photographs will show furnished rooms but not the big hole in the ceiling or the sagging, collapsed roof.<br /></p><p>If you ignore the irreconcilable permit situation, assuming that you will never sell again, you doom your descendants to a legal quagmire that might result in them abandoning the property in turn.<br /></p><p>Another glaring hiccup for us (should we be inclined to try to move to Portugal) is that the visa process to get residence includes getting a recent "vault" copy of our full birth certificates. This is a process that we went through in South Africa for the Green Card in the USA. Only here, the vault copy has to be embossed by a government official within 3 months of the application being made for the visa.</p><p>Anyone who has experienced South African bureaucracy at work will know that this means probably 18 months.<br /></p><p>So the bottom line is that you have to get a lawyer (preferably referred by someone you trust or from a large law firm) and a realtor, and be ready to put an offer in for a house only once the permit and land-use paperwork has been checked for potential obstacles, and someone has properly inspected the house for any glaring problems. Then buy the house and then have someone ready in South Africa who can expedite your applications for documentation for the permanent residence visa. No doubt there will be more to learn if we actually go down this path.<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3A7_Zhl3UagU33Y04yeQGLf4t6wgFB6cv2_kN6kqG0kE4V6ITm4GgUtccbEQJUhD1R3e09PfKm2-fi0uxIMasTz7N43-0ehJh509QypcWjbOfX0utaFIZbg4BA_q0_ejShWsL5cVXu_p4Ww90VPykk5Ukfhu6KCYnkqKVUQOC7gJ-d1tizHu2CIsp/s4000/_TJB1848.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2667" data-original-width="4000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3A7_Zhl3UagU33Y04yeQGLf4t6wgFB6cv2_kN6kqG0kE4V6ITm4GgUtccbEQJUhD1R3e09PfKm2-fi0uxIMasTz7N43-0ehJh509QypcWjbOfX0utaFIZbg4BA_q0_ejShWsL5cVXu_p4Ww90VPykk5Ukfhu6KCYnkqKVUQOC7gJ-d1tizHu2CIsp/w640-h426/_TJB1848.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p>It feels like buying a home in America all over again - assume the seller is scamming you and do your best to discover how before you sign any papers.</p><p>On Wednesday Trevor took us on a walk to the Lagos marina and into the old part of the city. You can tell that this place must be very busy in the summer. Already this early on in the year there are rows of stalls selling tickets for boat rides and kayak adventures into the caves below the cliffs we'd seen earlier on our walks.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhzlDgoeICfvQAt6ank0Fw386DgIG8c1LZGvVHy3AXDU15VcE8pFjgXPTT91zU5-bO1t0TBRa5Kus3HeeFZXbX0_Tbdl4gL9gazeVNNn0UK9yz4WwBW1xTMvoEVnpQtTnZmecwtl6GdJAwAsBZ5oB33GfLdLXx76jqMVM5UWXBoPQqsEQLOQb5rho5/w640-h480/IMG_4106.HEIC" width="640" /></div><p>We had wondered about art in the city because there wasn't the same proliferation of sculptures and art on the walls of buildings and in plazas as we had seen in Mexico, but I suppose we hadn't been looking in the right places. </p><p>The center has some beautifully tiled buildings</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXieLyu8kOU6M-4AzLDSrvj0EMPFQ_i_RV_vTGS_NOwgHl_csrtQMKAWqy2WOlV62QaniYTu4cMoSOYbWFkNIOeIdR3yqt3_Dry7wtfc8zn3UhtToOML6jJM80OWw_enPSmfGjvzvCdDnIv2qJXpizJTyFRarmbL4s3tHXfudHxuuQIQgnoY6FrvkL/s4032/IMG_4108.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXieLyu8kOU6M-4AzLDSrvj0EMPFQ_i_RV_vTGS_NOwgHl_csrtQMKAWqy2WOlV62QaniYTu4cMoSOYbWFkNIOeIdR3yqt3_Dry7wtfc8zn3UhtToOML6jJM80OWw_enPSmfGjvzvCdDnIv2qJXpizJTyFRarmbL4s3tHXfudHxuuQIQgnoY6FrvkL/w640-h480/IMG_4108.HEIC" width="640" /></a></div><br />and streets with patterned stone paving<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmtEwrsievLm3LznpW3QTtb52KrDkXl0ZaLB6APr9miwBioiyQ-70mkc-ij0I5mGw9dr9F6kBSecB-sVvGLm2m6xt8ZcaLzLxWpGqBdBRC4Cc9JgYLdb73gmx0m0rmxbc6AMu6jMBYtDkZStXFBV5ikHpAyZvtOSlRsOTZjnHkwqKIbHdOjtG9K0DA/s4032/IMG_4113.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmtEwrsievLm3LznpW3QTtb52KrDkXl0ZaLB6APr9miwBioiyQ-70mkc-ij0I5mGw9dr9F6kBSecB-sVvGLm2m6xt8ZcaLzLxWpGqBdBRC4Cc9JgYLdb73gmx0m0rmxbc6AMu6jMBYtDkZStXFBV5ikHpAyZvtOSlRsOTZjnHkwqKIbHdOjtG9K0DA/w640-h480/IMG_4113.HEIC" width="640" /></a></div><br />and more wall art<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig-mhEszeN53v0FSHSWoL2Tw3AwFNMXjPXw2bqDMsfOzAJnIT4k6g__qqySkJIHRT8GZDSWxTCPVTwS5y_lfK5ar8cTFtFo78yngsRtotR-loxnvxB5BF_FtRRUgdtHoPg2P-lWJKCmbcEJbKRKIdlDqiyl5g2WN_GggZL2j16m_sEaT59H4SnCnqY/s4032/IMG_4114.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig-mhEszeN53v0FSHSWoL2Tw3AwFNMXjPXw2bqDMsfOzAJnIT4k6g__qqySkJIHRT8GZDSWxTCPVTwS5y_lfK5ar8cTFtFo78yngsRtotR-loxnvxB5BF_FtRRUgdtHoPg2P-lWJKCmbcEJbKRKIdlDqiyl5g2WN_GggZL2j16m_sEaT59H4SnCnqY/w640-h480/IMG_4114.HEIC" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p>It was great to reconnect and share stories of many years ago... Who would have thought that together we'd have forgotten so many things.<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSv_64c0XrWi-S1EEf_qugTfZr6Rx5UrDygY6WxniGI1pMs5bV968Y9zkVlmPgH-HdGVlUZZhT30LoP3hi6t6ViCdLAiRVSn65E_F41h4jDtWi2EMAtxGEatkJWfJsApN8kW_XexBd5ij2qpXqeiyTDbjnL22ITD8AnpLSHNYKiAcsdMzgR859yx36/s4032/IMG_4085.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSv_64c0XrWi-S1EEf_qugTfZr6Rx5UrDygY6WxniGI1pMs5bV968Y9zkVlmPgH-HdGVlUZZhT30LoP3hi6t6ViCdLAiRVSn65E_F41h4jDtWi2EMAtxGEatkJWfJsApN8kW_XexBd5ij2qpXqeiyTDbjnL22ITD8AnpLSHNYKiAcsdMzgR859yx36/w640-h480/IMG_4085.HEIC" width="640" /></a></div><p>Luckily our shared memories were pretty complementary and we were able to piece together details between the two of us. Trevor has an extensive family tree with details about our shared grandfather that I had never known about before! He came from Blackpool - we all thought as a lone adventurer - but it turns out his father and a few of his brothers were also in South Africa when he was young.<br /></p><p>A fellow traveler from way back. </p><p></p>Timhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12828578695145994984noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8344844421099848427.post-47543269101899950442023-04-03T14:37:00.001-07:002023-04-03T14:45:18.762-07:00Portugal: Algarve East<p>The train to the Algarve from Lisbon stops in Faro, but we were due to stop at a small town north of Faro for a week-long house-sit to look after two small dogs in a beautiful home there.</p><h4 style="text-align: left;">Loulé <br /></h4><p>Anne joined the trusted house-sitters online community for house-sitting with pets last year. This would be our third house-sit. The house-sits are a mixed bag because I suppose there is a high likelihood of the animals having special needs if someone prefers having someone stay in their house over the alternatives, but in our case the needs are not onerous and the animals are a pleasure to look after.</p><p>This home had a large pool but it was just a little too early in the season for us to benefit from it. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-cQU_TCpDtUhco_DZcFLmynLoyQ1G8mwHZwhkphG-P6SR1UNBgs9aLyAAudanTYRRN19dqBE5ZKelChW71jOxkeTUnkHAkS10w16nUE6L_8Z8UGNp3r993JRfeIcU1W6OTwt2uOfkOe9hrFULuedj2Tt_yLbV51zuhg_5KprUz1rOVWRgRYDYhtps/s4032/IMG_3998.heic" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-cQU_TCpDtUhco_DZcFLmynLoyQ1G8mwHZwhkphG-P6SR1UNBgs9aLyAAudanTYRRN19dqBE5ZKelChW71jOxkeTUnkHAkS10w16nUE6L_8Z8UGNp3r993JRfeIcU1W6OTwt2uOfkOe9hrFULuedj2Tt_yLbV51zuhg_5KprUz1rOVWRgRYDYhtps/w640-h480/IMG_3998.heic" width="640" /></a></div>The setting was so tranquil and we were able to drive in one of their cars to nearby open orchards (olives, cork and carob trees).<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir2_P2mNOpaUUntQ8RPZjpCI6Kx_oRG1Ey8MVx03Ycqf-BNH0cE3E7ai9Yhar89PJPrODWheL2YtrCnehMxVMk6ZktkZcUAKnZxdEJgXdZpJqOmkj2HuvvAUtmtor7vEZQOCU7BocGAKjukavYLwIALH-5ALo5TeUJ4otkV5eU8X9cyZ6KO7PsckT4/s4032/IMG_4031.heic" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir2_P2mNOpaUUntQ8RPZjpCI6Kx_oRG1Ey8MVx03Ycqf-BNH0cE3E7ai9Yhar89PJPrODWheL2YtrCnehMxVMk6ZktkZcUAKnZxdEJgXdZpJqOmkj2HuvvAUtmtor7vEZQOCU7BocGAKjukavYLwIALH-5ALo5TeUJ4otkV5eU8X9cyZ6KO7PsckT4/w640-h480/IMG_4031.heic" width="640" /></a></div><br />Our walks with the little dogs took us past some more ruins. The reasons for these ruins had been variously reported as abandonment and complications with inheritance but our house-sitter host also pointed out that during periods of history, families emigrated from Portugal and the laws require that the properties that are left are the responsibility of the descendants who must agree on any sale.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC6RM7AvlETuh1HxKB9OxpCBu1k2qMmJypo8yhWbs_SJswcEBMLRkaS9qS152QN29MNEC9YHNlz_F-PJ4OZEbeNMBq4zNpUvA6x-7_bHG4v8h9YSXWqzJ9tM1ihyDrG0XA-V0H17UJGeFlKQyJPAs6zAfL1BQEBGdDEjh_GOl9dvTTHubjrc1WHTNk/s4032/IMG_4005.heic" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC6RM7AvlETuh1HxKB9OxpCBu1k2qMmJypo8yhWbs_SJswcEBMLRkaS9qS152QN29MNEC9YHNlz_F-PJ4OZEbeNMBq4zNpUvA6x-7_bHG4v8h9YSXWqzJ9tM1ihyDrG0XA-V0H17UJGeFlKQyJPAs6zAfL1BQEBGdDEjh_GOl9dvTTHubjrc1WHTNk/w640-h480/IMG_4005.heic" width="640" /></a></div>Since descendants who might have emigrated during political upheaval might be impossible to find, the burden on a potential buyer to resolve who should be paid for the property is a huge deterrent.<p></p>The dogs loved the beach, which was a 20min drive from Loulé and there are strings of long empty beaches (at this time of year) with fine sand.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD81CsLdsB2V5Eyi1KK4vT0_KfswRC0yKjda0FKAkt4BCQZxewe7zXHZQQ-bP1TtpHI8EbsaPH4VXJY2L24KYTi1VmLcpyvKNuE5rfmb1hUt3DRcNoZ7gWGaxSG_pA-aFXy2dZITjt0TFU58ydlBDTspTBD7uLC1DKOCkc3qdf1KR6iUlP2SmLpUpJ/s3741/IMG_3993.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2806" data-original-width="3741" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD81CsLdsB2V5Eyi1KK4vT0_KfswRC0yKjda0FKAkt4BCQZxewe7zXHZQQ-bP1TtpHI8EbsaPH4VXJY2L24KYTi1VmLcpyvKNuE5rfmb1hUt3DRcNoZ7gWGaxSG_pA-aFXy2dZITjt0TFU58ydlBDTspTBD7uLC1DKOCkc3qdf1KR6iUlP2SmLpUpJ/w640-h480/IMG_3993.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>We took our hosts out to dinner on our last night in the town to a small Portuguese restaurant where we met the owner and his wife. The restaurant had this amazing photograph hanging on the wall which the owner pointed out was incredible for the fact that there are hundreds of people in the town's plaza and every one of them appears to be looking right at the camera.<p>The reason is that it was during an Easter festival and was the first time any of the people in the town had seen a camera. They must have all watched as this contraption was set up on its tripod on some elevated vantage point and they are caught staring at the spot where the photographer stood.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE3w13CH5Dm5uF1tuPyDuw-yhM4enZieINeSe-53pDEldp5ZlBVcyskFNGNMeTPuL_aYgAmtzmA5dcAtIxHAXXCLvA2_80rVAEbX6VZOB5NCGJvWcGtRfHuAjFrGd2h1GsaRfpN9_2Up9OryxTO5kXOUBkOJs6cfgehd3YNVISULDJIK1p52utFqeJ/s4032/IMG_4033.heic" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE3w13CH5Dm5uF1tuPyDuw-yhM4enZieINeSe-53pDEldp5ZlBVcyskFNGNMeTPuL_aYgAmtzmA5dcAtIxHAXXCLvA2_80rVAEbX6VZOB5NCGJvWcGtRfHuAjFrGd2h1GsaRfpN9_2Up9OryxTO5kXOUBkOJs6cfgehd3YNVISULDJIK1p52utFqeJ/w640-h480/IMG_4033.heic" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p>Our house-sit host drove us down to Faro, the main city of the Algarve ,
where we rented a car for the duration of our stay in the south. As is
usual, the car rental agency persuaded us that we needed additional
insurance which was extremely annoying. We had already established that
our credit card and ordinary car rental didn't cover accident insurance
so it was with a long face that I agreed to pay it while Anne waited
with our luggage. </p><h4 style="text-align: left;">Tavira</h4><div style="text-align: left;">My cousin, Trevor, who now lives in Lagos had sent me some suggestions of where to visit in the Algarve and he suggested that we start in the far West, close to the Spanish border. The town closest to the border is Tavira and Anne found an AirBnb in a small town called Cabanas on the outskirts of Tavira.</div><div style="text-align: left;"> </div><div style="text-align: left;">The AirBnb we stayed at was a far cry from what we had in Porto - it was beautifully prepared with a welcome basket that had a bottle of red wine and a host who welcomed us and showed us around the apartment with lots of tips for the town and surrounds.<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjndxS5O63oCjufPEjhcPbBlgvQ2QAgfB1FQQHwfRNN9VsK99uhZYel4Bh63e5MVFU1CqKe8IZNod0HE7lVOJFEkvOgPU0_cBWnnGV7iMyaoY4HfoBfer0qpEa2Uuet1a1y8_Exvn6iUJ8CGdmvg-d9GRIQ5rQQZpW0d5qEa46ai9kj5cLuoDx63Av6/s3643/14934C89-D7EF-49A6-AE51-C47E29D28768.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2049" data-original-width="3643" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjndxS5O63oCjufPEjhcPbBlgvQ2QAgfB1FQQHwfRNN9VsK99uhZYel4Bh63e5MVFU1CqKe8IZNod0HE7lVOJFEkvOgPU0_cBWnnGV7iMyaoY4HfoBfer0qpEa2Uuet1a1y8_Exvn6iUJ8CGdmvg-d9GRIQ5rQQZpW0d5qEa46ai9kj5cLuoDx63Av6/w640-h360/14934C89-D7EF-49A6-AE51-C47E29D28768.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from our AirBnb balcony in Tavira<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">The town had a road along the beach side that felt like a British holiday town, advertising full English breakfasts. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV8ZjZzn7HxYTjYMoexU28CUJ1OFOkDQnBWeQxZq_5hp8Htl1JZdOTS3XZbMz2j7mI4IEXq-EKpbL4-2PZXZJWmTmWL5jMjK2Gzv7RpYSMdD73FQWM8Nrsi3Y2HU81BCTlcZUz0GcR1uo4mpzRcUdWZBkaQsp8_jIuY9V_oi4pnTCvQr6TLGpOXWNE/s3797/IMG_4039.heic" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2765" data-original-width="3797" height="466" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV8ZjZzn7HxYTjYMoexU28CUJ1OFOkDQnBWeQxZq_5hp8Htl1JZdOTS3XZbMz2j7mI4IEXq-EKpbL4-2PZXZJWmTmWL5jMjK2Gzv7RpYSMdD73FQWM8Nrsi3Y2HU81BCTlcZUz0GcR1uo4mpzRcUdWZBkaQsp8_jIuY9V_oi4pnTCvQr6TLGpOXWNE/w640-h466/IMG_4039.heic" width="640" /></a></div></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />True to predictions people switched to English more or less on meeting us or when they heard us greeting them in Portuguese. This was a relief because after a few weeks here we are still completely lost in the pronunciation of words even though reading signs often makes sense from our Spanish.</div><div style="text-align: left;"> </div><div style="text-align: left;">The town doesn't have direct access to the beach. There is a small, shallow inlet that goes along the length of Tavira and its outskirts with two large islands about 50m across from the edge of town and you can take a ferry from Cabanas or from Tavira to the island and walk to the beach from there. <br /> There is an infrastructure of restaurants and rows of beach chairs that you can use on the main island. We didn't visit the second island during the week that we were there but spent a morning on the main island.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjiVeiLBzyoBuEIqkSyYJVriC28aXDpd5YTc1KDyrZlyDGpYNRShG5bo61f03oaK28iEPTGxhpba4sQ554BkU3niRBLQqKFzyfa9EkrM4JPwQSCLMXOBGduGXxyd_7a-uR-G1pNn4za-HKUlL0KBYuejFD4PvpyPREAwB_27CzJryc-7Skfhher9hF/s1024/c7eb2b14-c3f5-4372-b61b-9116d7a1f5a1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjiVeiLBzyoBuEIqkSyYJVriC28aXDpd5YTc1KDyrZlyDGpYNRShG5bo61f03oaK28iEPTGxhpba4sQ554BkU3niRBLQqKFzyfa9EkrM4JPwQSCLMXOBGduGXxyd_7a-uR-G1pNn4za-HKUlL0KBYuejFD4PvpyPREAwB_27CzJryc-7Skfhher9hF/w640-h480/c7eb2b14-c3f5-4372-b61b-9116d7a1f5a1.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"> </div><div style="text-align: left;">Of course we were reminded that there are very wealthy people hanging around and living in this part of Portugal. A Lamborghini pulled up opposite us one morning and the owner had found two ways of saying the same thing to anyone who happened to see him and his car.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5KD5PdlFCpCaE0BFfhNX7FyyE6oPuJEVe52m5eLlbailAh_lAx-khH2gnXITcL100ry5Dgwem25Up53WxuiNBXiooxmkGgDanZnX4nj4JKQV67YgAVd-c-6aEZ4MZSWE4oRi8ZIWwJzDi3Do2rKdq2cXLCZXWegufpkpYmRUqWjogE9waglHbRkbG/s4032/IMG_4040.heic" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5KD5PdlFCpCaE0BFfhNX7FyyE6oPuJEVe52m5eLlbailAh_lAx-khH2gnXITcL100ry5Dgwem25Up53WxuiNBXiooxmkGgDanZnX4nj4JKQV67YgAVd-c-6aEZ4MZSWE4oRi8ZIWwJzDi3Do2rKdq2cXLCZXWegufpkpYmRUqWjogE9waglHbRkbG/w640-h480/IMG_4040.heic" width="640" /></a></div><br /> The town of Tavira has a castle and some big cathedrals and offers a small "train" ride on a truck that tows carts through the town and over the cobbles big enough, in some parts of the town, to shake you up. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_EdF59sk-fzTyy3TVPruNCijx1PzmOU5nTtmWRBtMEsCsb1iXOqpLYHAV8XfjI84wbtRWPot9KgholGmxkHiHksXCEvo6-qBbxL1Ly12GExKh4KhklG0lnGmjO7ci60j0qCzTeCGxLiRgELUWrjIT678wudNTkfd4WxyKAOw7qXrHOPRg7ceo1tfl/s4032/IMG_4053.heic" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_EdF59sk-fzTyy3TVPruNCijx1PzmOU5nTtmWRBtMEsCsb1iXOqpLYHAV8XfjI84wbtRWPot9KgholGmxkHiHksXCEvo6-qBbxL1Ly12GExKh4KhklG0lnGmjO7ci60j0qCzTeCGxLiRgELUWrjIT678wudNTkfd4WxyKAOw7qXrHOPRg7ceo1tfl/w640-h480/IMG_4053.heic" width="640" /></a></div><br />The "train" stopped in a few attractive parts of the town. Again some run down apartments in somewhat empty streets.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihVl_loSUoX6urloz3wvxBsY7Lxw6NCWiHChYWzqzUHUvF1TTgKQtbzbcE01vn4GXlI5_tB2tdEiCItpi-nPdYB8or-eW8IgYAN4lax2g1SunsOzkTizDJTCGvrLzkaRUhRg76_wM1SCLjeoJIulA112V_QjYdA_FTLpAQthxi-YOl5d5b99mdDWHm/s4000/_TJB1746.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2667" data-original-width="4000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihVl_loSUoX6urloz3wvxBsY7Lxw6NCWiHChYWzqzUHUvF1TTgKQtbzbcE01vn4GXlI5_tB2tdEiCItpi-nPdYB8or-eW8IgYAN4lax2g1SunsOzkTizDJTCGvrLzkaRUhRg76_wM1SCLjeoJIulA112V_QjYdA_FTLpAQthxi-YOl5d5b99mdDWHm/w640-h426/_TJB1746.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />Across the river from the castle is a restaurant and shopping area that has beautiful facades.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkqcZNyKwvHTH5dRuvrX30nD_9ODcEltQE4U1uP-gwFzMKYEV8ZfOC7L08xgXwKyai6QJq5Km-SSeIE7YvRWJo4jhLlng9pvLgCeLdagSZXXCgcvC370NLRdG5OaOlEF7UUhBmLtITr1Oytq98aEFL96jIRxzPmEmd7heeTP49KLLcjc07_OrqWkGY/s4000/_TJB1795_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2666" data-original-width="4000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkqcZNyKwvHTH5dRuvrX30nD_9ODcEltQE4U1uP-gwFzMKYEV8ZfOC7L08xgXwKyai6QJq5Km-SSeIE7YvRWJo4jhLlng9pvLgCeLdagSZXXCgcvC370NLRdG5OaOlEF7UUhBmLtITr1Oytq98aEFL96jIRxzPmEmd7heeTP49KLLcjc07_OrqWkGY/w640-h426/_TJB1795_HDR.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />Some streets on the side of town with the castle have quaint houses.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiITnD62Oq4lnObmTW2vs5STqWLLb2QoiqUd7qyD9l7nJqQGS9Y03mQUAXSQEt1pHJnk2le8Pa0sId_QO0mkkUDW7Sa-iPvwei3zpYVyElrRs2Vn5o1usK7O5dhpks3_c3ra_n6_mOCSv6lOEOVf3AfZj63_QA-WOlklLrjCJ9z0RZhTIvJHSK_nTk/s4000/_TJB1780_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2658" data-original-width="4000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiITnD62Oq4lnObmTW2vs5STqWLLb2QoiqUd7qyD9l7nJqQGS9Y03mQUAXSQEt1pHJnk2le8Pa0sId_QO0mkkUDW7Sa-iPvwei3zpYVyElrRs2Vn5o1usK7O5dhpks3_c3ra_n6_mOCSv6lOEOVf3AfZj63_QA-WOlklLrjCJ9z0RZhTIvJHSK_nTk/w640-h426/_TJB1780_HDR.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;">The view from the castle of the town shows a similar character to the other Portuguese towns that we have seen with white walls and terracotta tiled roofs.</div><div style="text-align: left;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNThvsbUJ6KP6X9fgkJkQmLM8LkXK4knGJvB3otc3r91jMFfTA_Wg6uMNnN0fFKOJNV0AEwm7WY3QrfiZ5A-KMTnmxSx-DsWpyQ_ERhDhf7WsBSv6p6cwJs7C_j8pWwTfx31F65RIJN_mc5v6uz7tWN9DsvlNvgiW0GOzLGK-zf_C8ZSPQ04oTb9gb/s6740/IMG_4049.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3926" data-original-width="6740" height="372" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNThvsbUJ6KP6X9fgkJkQmLM8LkXK4knGJvB3otc3r91jMFfTA_Wg6uMNnN0fFKOJNV0AEwm7WY3QrfiZ5A-KMTnmxSx-DsWpyQ_ERhDhf7WsBSv6p6cwJs7C_j8pWwTfx31F65RIJN_mc5v6uz7tWN9DsvlNvgiW0GOzLGK-zf_C8ZSPQ04oTb9gb/w640-h372/IMG_4049.HEIC" width="640" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">I paused at a few real estate shops in the town to see what house prices are in the region. They are cheaper than US prices along the coast but not by a great deal. </div><div style="text-align: left;"> </div><div style="text-align: left;">Good quality, free standing homes range from $750k-$1.5mil so we'll keep traveling for now.<br /></div><br />Timhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12828578695145994984noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8344844421099848427.post-76798873171900040642023-03-22T14:39:00.001-07:002023-03-31T11:24:28.375-07:00Threads: Kimberley, Grahamstown and Santarem<p>I grew up in Kimberley - a city in the middle of the Karoo with hot summers and cold winter nights. Most of my social life revolved around the English Baptist church where we spent a great deal of time on Fridays and Sundays.</p><p>Of course the attraction of this social life involved the normal dynamics of teenagers hanging out together and we had a group of friends that we cultivated over those years and then lost touch with once we all moved on. When Facebook exploded onto the scene in the early 2000's I reconnected with a few of them even though our lives were far apart and we had evolved into people in some ways quite different from those young kids teasing and joking with each other at church gatherings. </p><p>Among these friends were two attractive girls with infectious laughs whose parents were Portuguese. Their mother who was very direct, taught me how to greet people in Portuguese when I visited them a few times at their home. I've been using those few words quite a bit since we made the trip to Portugal this month.<br /></p><p>I had reconnected briefly with both of them when we were living in Grahamstown about 8 years after I left Kimberley and then lost touch again when we moved to the USA 15 years later. At some point I learned that Armanda, the younger of the two, had moved to Portugal. So before we left for Portugal I made contact with her through her sister-in-law, because neither of them are on Facebook and Anne and I asked if we could add a stop to visit her on our way down from Porto to the Algarve.<br /></p><p>But first we spent a total of 8 days in Porto, taking time to visit the center of the city twice - the first I have written about in a previous post. </p><p>The second trip was to see a famous bookshop that had been a frequent stop for J.K. Rowling when she had taught English in Porto years before she wrote the Harry Potter books. The bookshop is described as the most beautiful in the world and it has a reputation for being the inspiration for some of the settings described in the Harry Potter books. On any given day there are lines of people waiting to go inside for an Instagram moment.</p><p>You can get a ticket to visit online for 5 Euros but it can be used against a book purchase so entrance ends up being free if you buy a book.<br /></p><p>The entrance to the bookshop has beautiful wood panels and elaborate carved stairs curving up to the upper floor. Despite the crowds, we were able to make our way through the shop and Anne bought a couple of books while I photographed the interior.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKAW9wgpG-aCZAYoBoy-PIhmymsv_AyhDduYfpmaTvJ-l7A0wljxjv397OGIifAoZw0wWQMpViEwnOmOSXyh_Xd9MekWvpaxVN0upCMnTG4-IVOMf-yWLK2gUVBI0g_szkSJZwJAo_laT_0k8lluEurQAdYdMdNffSn_kZsN0txLTZ26DJTfwJ7DXk/s4000/_TJB1110_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2664" data-original-width="4000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKAW9wgpG-aCZAYoBoy-PIhmymsv_AyhDduYfpmaTvJ-l7A0wljxjv397OGIifAoZw0wWQMpViEwnOmOSXyh_Xd9MekWvpaxVN0upCMnTG4-IVOMf-yWLK2gUVBI0g_szkSJZwJAo_laT_0k8lluEurQAdYdMdNffSn_kZsN0txLTZ26DJTfwJ7DXk/w640-h426/_TJB1110_HDR.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p>A large silver display booth houses a framed letter from a 19 year old Robert Zimmerman (Bob Dylan) to a woman named Barbara describing a dream he had had about her. It turns out that the bookshop paid over half a million dollars (which was more than double the expected price) to win the collection of 42 letters at an auction in the USA.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_7WG3K-3C7qqgRIwb3_1BaDeODBRLSjZGkHm0AwzQ3zGzkw7OvXQ3ZflpWMNv7mQ2zZBBfutTyRPQQCBWht7mgSJQyq6UA9QTEWvz_WNdYog2hnr4fjFDpgVwsw9wV3WVGolPiGAFgwZSytK4V8TUGG5G4KJfgoXUpD9QQPNB3CR-NhNxzZTmGdU3/s4000/_TJB1194_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2662" data-original-width="4000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_7WG3K-3C7qqgRIwb3_1BaDeODBRLSjZGkHm0AwzQ3zGzkw7OvXQ3ZflpWMNv7mQ2zZBBfutTyRPQQCBWht7mgSJQyq6UA9QTEWvz_WNdYog2hnr4fjFDpgVwsw9wV3WVGolPiGAFgwZSytK4V8TUGG5G4KJfgoXUpD9QQPNB3CR-NhNxzZTmGdU3/w640-h426/_TJB1194_HDR.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p>Our feelings about Porto were a little colored by Anne getting sick and the fact that it rained for most of the time in an AirBnb that appears to be less than waterproof but we did have a few sunny days at the tail end and were able to walk daily along the long beach of Matosinhos (pronounced Mah-tuzi-nush).</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_6SMcwXvMR0Rft8pRUW8GfsmhEl4AL8_YPwAnnT_bAh3OZZv5R2310JPssXvM8O126nkKC-PRZF2JsGxdAE5ePFhEuExWIjoFeDB1bkYNNE9D-4zGNSpKNYQuJhqb7gmDMaHrJ3ot_qv88p_mMtdNAjTNqB_dBkVIZbnUeKtTr5v9wiVBH-OLafcx/s3419/IMG_3929.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2564" data-original-width="3419" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_6SMcwXvMR0Rft8pRUW8GfsmhEl4AL8_YPwAnnT_bAh3OZZv5R2310JPssXvM8O126nkKC-PRZF2JsGxdAE5ePFhEuExWIjoFeDB1bkYNNE9D-4zGNSpKNYQuJhqb7gmDMaHrJ3ot_qv88p_mMtdNAjTNqB_dBkVIZbnUeKtTr5v9wiVBH-OLafcx/s320/IMG_3929.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>The waves were pretty wild, breaking quite a bit further out than those we'd seen on the south coast of Mexico. There was lots of evidence of surf schools and it seems like a beach very well suited to that.<p></p><p>A walled structure at one end of the beach is a castle called <span><a class="RFlwHf" data-no-redirect="1" data-ved="0CAQQ_UVqFwoTCJCwpOq-6v0CFQAAAAAdAAAAABAE" href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fort_of_S%C3%A3o_Francisco_Xavier" target="_self">Castelo do Queijo</a> which is thought to have been built by the Celtic tribe called the Draganes who arrived in the 6th century. Porto has emblems showing a dragon in various places and their football (soccer) team is nicknamed Dragōes probably after these original Celts.</span></p><p><span>The view of the beach from near this structure is impressive and we spent an hour walking there and watching the waves on our second last day.</span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoKALbgWmkm4DOndW1Dox8Nt8Q19hs4YzrB5W83gXQoNRuzi67HtmjIa8e3kycgKjcl39n_g9YAaFd-aEb5BQcVwt3yfULH5G9-odENpIrEMs_Rsd1bwVQttVuj94iDyp3GUM45_Et49OdugsJy7x0L5TAEeCH1GUMSwkxgd6XYbGFETBHa2JsKAtu/s3791/IMG_E3952.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2843" data-original-width="3791" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoKALbgWmkm4DOndW1Dox8Nt8Q19hs4YzrB5W83gXQoNRuzi67HtmjIa8e3kycgKjcl39n_g9YAaFd-aEb5BQcVwt3yfULH5G9-odENpIrEMs_Rsd1bwVQttVuj94iDyp3GUM45_Et49OdugsJy7x0L5TAEeCH1GUMSwkxgd6XYbGFETBHa2JsKAtu/w640-h480/IMG_E3952.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></div><p></p><p><span>The Friday I took a day off work because Armanda and her husband had invited us to stay with them and I figured it would be pretty rude to spend that night working. We caught a train from Porto to Santarem - a two and a half hour trip through some countryside that reminded us of the west coast of South Africa and of the countryside outside of San Franciso.</span></p><p><span>We pulled into the small station and were picked up by Armanda and her husband Luis, and taken to their home for lunch and some conversation before heading out for a walk around the town. Armanda has not changed at all, other than the greying of her hair, and it amazes me how easily we reconnect with people we haven't seen for years - so much common ground and history that ties us together. They are such a lovely couple.<br /></span></p><p><span>We took a walk through the town and there was a sense of tranquillity there.<br /></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYB9rkBOaYSeCdl_co7nl9q5w35EucvzYEXbTZoi9JPeg8OWw34sdPTQKA3cKptWw3lS9QLTyGOHuxFWszzKmrleq4Sbezr-8VY_JSovLAlWfemf09jFv7iWvkOLU2pStiBoB87owaURe9J2mly_mVux9QcVzO-nOZxZ1KomOQ0E1M383XQwO6EAtU/s4000/_TJB1284_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2661" data-original-width="4000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYB9rkBOaYSeCdl_co7nl9q5w35EucvzYEXbTZoi9JPeg8OWw34sdPTQKA3cKptWw3lS9QLTyGOHuxFWszzKmrleq4Sbezr-8VY_JSovLAlWfemf09jFv7iWvkOLU2pStiBoB87owaURe9J2mly_mVux9QcVzO-nOZxZ1KomOQ0E1M383XQwO6EAtU/w640-h426/_TJB1284_HDR.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></div><span>I suspect some of this is problematic because, like many small towns in Portugal, it is suffering from a drain of young people who are attracted to working in the cities. They have as their pick more or less any city in Europe as long as they can overcome any language barriers.</span><p></p><p><span>So, in addition to the somewhat empty streets there were a few that had evidence of many shops that had closed down and were shuttered.</span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGnPeISYpVhghpgnPEbgHuAPTY6sMOVlnxFavhg5vmm1VutyhN-Ttcg6iHCXKW2Kb8rgaj1NNH7yVqj4JPbFmloFZW7QLlGphLPEZAyX0XCZ7n-kIUeoM3XS25hps_7gWTxgX8WGkFI7KnWpBSnHbN7GJurt8UakanHnTLtwyFch66QAe4e9k1hCJw/s4000/_TJB1246_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2659" data-original-width="4000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGnPeISYpVhghpgnPEbgHuAPTY6sMOVlnxFavhg5vmm1VutyhN-Ttcg6iHCXKW2Kb8rgaj1NNH7yVqj4JPbFmloFZW7QLlGphLPEZAyX0XCZ7n-kIUeoM3XS25hps_7gWTxgX8WGkFI7KnWpBSnHbN7GJurt8UakanHnTLtwyFch66QAe4e9k1hCJw/w640-h426/_TJB1246_HDR.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></div><p></p><p><span>The walk took us past a few old buildings and into a few beautiful cathedrals to a small park with stone walled structures called Portas do Sol (doors of the sun) </span></p><p><span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGDm7Yf9w0yr59-oR35_A9BEiSaHsIrfl0rhq0vnwICVjMp8grsXU5DEnWb1dFqF9A8Tm2RIvJpkDgItq50v5iZMifspwmlkDC4EKrQFf5S8zxFUTCY_9eM_m-xx9RyCqcHg_XEwh6MCbSHnLHkrDbGnU6-r8DD0t7UWuNgctcGL6qfwxfQhaM4YQO/s1600/7a4a310a-43a3-42c2-89aa-cbfce4e197d5.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGDm7Yf9w0yr59-oR35_A9BEiSaHsIrfl0rhq0vnwICVjMp8grsXU5DEnWb1dFqF9A8Tm2RIvJpkDgItq50v5iZMifspwmlkDC4EKrQFf5S8zxFUTCY_9eM_m-xx9RyCqcHg_XEwh6MCbSHnLHkrDbGnU6-r8DD0t7UWuNgctcGL6qfwxfQhaM4YQO/w640-h480/7a4a310a-43a3-42c2-89aa-cbfce4e197d5.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></div><span>which look out over the river Teju (Tagus in English) which is the main river of Portugal - originating in Spain and providing the wide deep river that the Romans used to establish the port of Lisbon.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIUII8MwRLUv5NQ25lJESu38tNy9ftu2HU3qLrwm3qXTg2sCSR7D71L-cqymiXV2Vysb-LkrVIddpluB95jRgxy36qh3bO4kNej-qxu1I4aKgYUq4YfYtEyQilpmcG1qZs6VtezFCBthpYr8AdXKf4QIqd9njQ6mlsvXfwC9tUq4pxIGzUSapCFhe0/s4000/_TJB1267.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2667" data-original-width="4000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIUII8MwRLUv5NQ25lJESu38tNy9ftu2HU3qLrwm3qXTg2sCSR7D71L-cqymiXV2Vysb-LkrVIddpluB95jRgxy36qh3bO4kNej-qxu1I4aKgYUq4YfYtEyQilpmcG1qZs6VtezFCBthpYr8AdXKf4QIqd9njQ6mlsvXfwC9tUq4pxIGzUSapCFhe0/w640-h426/_TJB1267.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>There is a building called the </span>Torre das Cabaças because it has eight calabashes (gourds) mounted on the tower - local lore has these as emblems of displeasure by the king who reputedly did not like the structure when he saw it but the Wikipedia entry lists these gourds as amplifiers of the tower's warning bells.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1Sqhf_cooxWUpq1LJhLdwZN6J-lfHfJZBVkKvgQ_3y2PfaUEfSwe9oUx4sdX1M19Nc4R1Gq1194JOsXPRcIafYWb2IxyczveHEWgZS4ipL6mjpqkzs5ANy6weFS06wi7YaZKuYuc6TS5zrHKpPeQn4x-MUWJCoD1LcZtMAPa2jfeGsQgKui_DvmCc/s4000/_TJB1279_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2662" data-original-width="4000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1Sqhf_cooxWUpq1LJhLdwZN6J-lfHfJZBVkKvgQ_3y2PfaUEfSwe9oUx4sdX1M19Nc4R1Gq1194JOsXPRcIafYWb2IxyczveHEWgZS4ipL6mjpqkzs5ANy6weFS06wi7YaZKuYuc6TS5zrHKpPeQn4x-MUWJCoD1LcZtMAPa2jfeGsQgKui_DvmCc/w640-h426/_TJB1279_HDR.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p>On our way back we stopped at a really old Gothic cathedral where a young man gave us an impromptu tour. He was so earnest and engaging that I called Anne into the church just to listen to him. <br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjenpOx1Fd7Ars9nXDW8UePSJgpiIUHq-vk3xSpHAvcI5hcEgNZGRsqQZMhqoho0suibn71DK8m86B-FbnsBC1mzVrOA_8I5EXjfSK992H1DVQ6sE9AYhBl-AjxpPk9M6TX1p1hR0Y42mrGW4-W4N-VRpZuk_MPr0BoKfn9GdMpfrYdhvovKTk-hDZ9/s4000/_TJB1304_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2660" data-original-width="4000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjenpOx1Fd7Ars9nXDW8UePSJgpiIUHq-vk3xSpHAvcI5hcEgNZGRsqQZMhqoho0suibn71DK8m86B-FbnsBC1mzVrOA_8I5EXjfSK992H1DVQ6sE9AYhBl-AjxpPk9M6TX1p1hR0Y42mrGW4-W4N-VRpZuk_MPr0BoKfn9GdMpfrYdhvovKTk-hDZ9/w640-h426/_TJB1304_HDR.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />Outside on a wall opposite the cathedral we saw some very stylized graffiti which appeared to be a comment on the Portuguese colonization of Brazil. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLV8zGcPcDvzduOypQSDzIX26eGV40o5WbV_cT_6HdRQQ2-Wyk97G8QW_WAHz3nLOu7QrkaWptlK8I9fy7FKn0fybnGoKndGSluBLDmNRw0eOKvzheD4dLloW4kglz_Xbux-QYglooRkp1GWE9m0jv9_KASHcAGajCCK6d9CutwfPYb3HleO_6A4XS/s4000/_TJB1289_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2652" data-original-width="4000" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLV8zGcPcDvzduOypQSDzIX26eGV40o5WbV_cT_6HdRQQ2-Wyk97G8QW_WAHz3nLOu7QrkaWptlK8I9fy7FKn0fybnGoKndGSluBLDmNRw0eOKvzheD4dLloW4kglz_Xbux-QYglooRkp1GWE9m0jv9_KASHcAGajCCK6d9CutwfPYb3HleO_6A4XS/w640-h424/_TJB1289_HDR.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p></p><p><span>We sat at a small coffee house in the evening near the main cathedral. Lots of young people nearby were playing cards and having a great evening.</span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZCfRfl987HQYMRNwizZF6O-8wo4ofjh_cw7zqR0kJlth75UGWdwN_3IhxGPB57EhjRdxCRAQeeqHh7B-OI6t3g_BibvzPbbve-Y6NnzfJvOONK2-UPbkBDMTf-OkHCfP0owoVdSYhZXP1suJZ-vWaTUrwOTay0rNW4XXsAy1WLmcJkvoW1JCFc1i6/s4000/_TJB1324_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2654" data-original-width="4000" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZCfRfl987HQYMRNwizZF6O-8wo4ofjh_cw7zqR0kJlth75UGWdwN_3IhxGPB57EhjRdxCRAQeeqHh7B-OI6t3g_BibvzPbbve-Y6NnzfJvOONK2-UPbkBDMTf-OkHCfP0owoVdSYhZXP1suJZ-vWaTUrwOTay0rNW4XXsAy1WLmcJkvoW1JCFc1i6/w640-h424/_TJB1324_HDR.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></div><p></p><p><span>Portugal and the town of
Santarem experienced major political upheaval in the mid-70s during the
Portugal Carnation revolution. It was a military coup
organized by left-leaning military leaders who led the country to
democracy and hastened the end of the colonial wars that Portugal was
fighting. Luis experienced this first-hand as a young 14-year old, with
factions in a popular resistance that emerged during the revolution. He
has stories about some tense moments with protestors in the town and
near his house.</span></p><span>These
threads reach back to Kimberley too, though. In the mid-70s a teenager
came to our church after his family was exiled from Portugal. They had
left with nothing but the clothes on their backs and ended up in
Kimberly. The fall of the dictatorship in Portugal and the new
left-wing government had taken steps to withdraw from their colonial
wars in Mozambique, Angola and </span>Guinea-Bissau. We became friends and have lost touch - but we used to hang out with Armanda and her sister as well.<p><span>The rest of the weekend was a whirlwind of conversations about work and politics and vacations, </span><span>interspersed with trips, one to a Knights Templar castle inland from us - which the King of Portugal had protected when their order came under threat for being too powerful by renaming them the "Order of Christ". </span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEtrohjoK_-gXYhkeZo1SIOuYCKcTXqA07RDpT0Twlx5CwEIzDd-FKRaoxPmIQgLx-fJ63hs3PVqBUR6nG3aO16OqKcU8C-AtnrhE9qbz6MvK4KHfOafdqSD43WbGHmwFkQuLb9kyWFCp_OSWNmLICmaYCdEe6NgdbimPD8HIKYFpYmBXMOd-5Y0aP/s4000/_TJB1494_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2654" data-original-width="4000" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEtrohjoK_-gXYhkeZo1SIOuYCKcTXqA07RDpT0Twlx5CwEIzDd-FKRaoxPmIQgLx-fJ63hs3PVqBUR6nG3aO16OqKcU8C-AtnrhE9qbz6MvK4KHfOafdqSD43WbGHmwFkQuLb9kyWFCp_OSWNmLICmaYCdEe6NgdbimPD8HIKYFpYmBXMOd-5Y0aP/w640-h424/_TJB1494_HDR.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></div><span><br /> He appreciated the protection that they were giving to areas of his domain.</span><p></p><p><span>The castle is built on an island in a river, giving it a natural moat, and looks imposing from the viewpoints on either side.</span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGVeNYGD_GKibpV6dGVP8R6zkfnGCuBQiTbGUZ6TimIl5yZoisxh8tgUqZvcCVujAftSrqBZShgzkq3eQ2cPQly-0zbmfuwSQ4zQGVj0mbNeMzR4DBYzdW1z9VAZPEjfyr-eRlYXn9lbsLtGafE_kuRYT6W9YbCGZIXfXRVhVANKbiLqQxvty35RYx/s4000/_TJB1331.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2667" data-original-width="4000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGVeNYGD_GKibpV6dGVP8R6zkfnGCuBQiTbGUZ6TimIl5yZoisxh8tgUqZvcCVujAftSrqBZShgzkq3eQ2cPQly-0zbmfuwSQ4zQGVj0mbNeMzR4DBYzdW1z9VAZPEjfyr-eRlYXn9lbsLtGafE_kuRYT6W9YbCGZIXfXRVhVANKbiLqQxvty35RYx/w640-h426/_TJB1331.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></div><p></p><p><span>We visited a quaint town on a hill with a beautiful cathedral </span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdQESfrwLOkCHxzCiHHEuki3ot8xg3NWqMwOn3o6aHCIgSaH7kcg5_SNecmEpGvv768GAuY0gtDPSB5UtEio2pM3oTElUwK7Vw6WKejussohKdn5Nc8PPGsYR0Fayn6Tb3HzUNJWCsUog_XZE-RphiZ8QyWk6WY4uocF2x4Ou8bBoH282bOi5gzlcg/s4000/_TJB1344_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2649" data-original-width="4000" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdQESfrwLOkCHxzCiHHEuki3ot8xg3NWqMwOn3o6aHCIgSaH7kcg5_SNecmEpGvv768GAuY0gtDPSB5UtEio2pM3oTElUwK7Vw6WKejussohKdn5Nc8PPGsYR0Fayn6Tb3HzUNJWCsUog_XZE-RphiZ8QyWk6WY4uocF2x4Ou8bBoH282bOi5gzlcg/w640-h424/_TJB1344_HDR.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></div><span><br />and then a stop at a huge dam that now holds back the river </span><span>Teju further upstream, reducing the number of floods near the town of Santarem.<br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkKH5p0xwfQyFPv2bgArToACoKNLQ7dO10iZMW40o4J0BvziquKnxxKsnD1FfnMQElnua1WuobMv7EVKbLCfTvken3NyzPCbZv-8UhkSJLqot_5qtG52uC2ZnkMbL77gFZzXOU4NFBXlyBYXjEYy18z-1Yo70w4q5JlqUSvTYLpGvHlvtj5mM__VXw/s4000/_TJB1392.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2667" data-original-width="4000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkKH5p0xwfQyFPv2bgArToACoKNLQ7dO10iZMW40o4J0BvziquKnxxKsnD1FfnMQElnua1WuobMv7EVKbLCfTvken3NyzPCbZv-8UhkSJLqot_5qtG52uC2ZnkMbL77gFZzXOU4NFBXlyBYXjEYy18z-1Yo70w4q5JlqUSvTYLpGvHlvtj5mM__VXw/w640-h426/_TJB1392.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><span>Luis and Armanda drove us to Lisbon on the Sunday with a detour to the walled <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/%C3%93bidos,_Portugal">city of </a></span><span><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/%C3%93bidos,_Portugal">Obidos</a>, an ancient walled city that was having a chocolate festival.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLz2z6wUSC8IRUcDcOjn1oFhRTVTTSZQ5SNLvHrN9UncsFTLbpX4OdpDPP81YbiVE5YcUj5P3woIISrv8jtZoWrWTbL688GXelQ9cVRMtcHMTLi8ZvUD_ihd0BXgVu0Qyz4Ja94pna-D8t00cYhgSfwJDQ-u058hdRHsS3Hnw0WpW6IMPAZxMciYy5/s4000/_TJB1504.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2667" data-original-width="4000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLz2z6wUSC8IRUcDcOjn1oFhRTVTTSZQ5SNLvHrN9UncsFTLbpX4OdpDPP81YbiVE5YcUj5P3woIISrv8jtZoWrWTbL688GXelQ9cVRMtcHMTLi8ZvUD_ihd0BXgVu0Qyz4Ja94pna-D8t00cYhgSfwJDQ-u058hdRHsS3Hnw0WpW6IMPAZxMciYy5/w640-h426/_TJB1504.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>Luis navigated the narrow streets and found us parking on the far side of the city from which we walked to an entrance and then down one of the main streets with some beautiful stores, <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8CDdl42FTVFAfh5h8AnHuvJ2Z2lnQVulyQUmjC1iYNwSw3J81G4C48azyECaTEe9Su-Hz-sG8u5DhHIGn5hGxzmiAM2PiHbzwWhiYzOE8G_s5Q8_01oDoTswl9A_uBnZn5PBGMHe_gmzcYobAXTeU4SqWzkKyotQFs5Ux0FI9o642xCrR79qHtDWX/s4000/_TJB1593_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2662" data-original-width="4000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8CDdl42FTVFAfh5h8AnHuvJ2Z2lnQVulyQUmjC1iYNwSw3J81G4C48azyECaTEe9Su-Hz-sG8u5DhHIGn5hGxzmiAM2PiHbzwWhiYzOE8G_s5Q8_01oDoTswl9A_uBnZn5PBGMHe_gmzcYobAXTeU4SqWzkKyotQFs5Ux0FI9o642xCrR79qHtDWX/w640-h426/_TJB1593_HDR.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />some selling the famous cherry liqueur Ginginha (or Ginja). <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyrS-wlpdaPXy825KfszsF4U_C-qmY3JDy79xoKzptA20easjJt6f9xgXWOWRhxtEj1rl9ZJmyjl8bX7DJopI0sO2C54VbObjPYX3Prs477UWC92vmXePgRtooKSID_T7DBiUduA4pH0rH3feV1d_xIH6ebo5MLkljqVOh2ilBMJK9WM6pg799cpOZ/s4000/_TJB1534.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2667" data-original-width="4000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyrS-wlpdaPXy825KfszsF4U_C-qmY3JDy79xoKzptA20easjJt6f9xgXWOWRhxtEj1rl9ZJmyjl8bX7DJopI0sO2C54VbObjPYX3Prs477UWC92vmXePgRtooKSID_T7DBiUduA4pH0rH3feV1d_xIH6ebo5MLkljqVOh2ilBMJK9WM6pg799cpOZ/w640-h426/_TJB1534.jpg" width="640" /></a></div></span><span>The city is build on an original Roman settlement and was taken by the Moors in 713.</span><span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgN1DD4HBiwLsNZRDy7xH0i8p1kc0YVqPflYH8d-BlvCnyIb97Tw7m4HoFF8b1pls_qZZxzlq0jxosW9tWuQMmMKDbY9JpkTtLxUrn-dqxddZFSmPqzoQquEXd732jpyytjwbD6cnlht9rGeKSkNsV2379LNGbUKmKLBUIlgEFKnKhpI3PXeOSlJpjI/s4000/_TJB1529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2667" data-original-width="4000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgN1DD4HBiwLsNZRDy7xH0i8p1kc0YVqPflYH8d-BlvCnyIb97Tw7m4HoFF8b1pls_qZZxzlq0jxosW9tWuQMmMKDbY9JpkTtLxUrn-dqxddZFSmPqzoQquEXd732jpyytjwbD6cnlht9rGeKSkNsV2379LNGbUKmKLBUIlgEFKnKhpI3PXeOSlJpjI/w640-h426/_TJB1529.jpg" width="640" /></a></div></span><p></p><p><span>They built fortifications and the city was retaken by the first king of Portugal where legend has it that a single knight was responsible for breaching the walls to aid the conquest of the city in 1148. </span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2-635s3Lu_vDG9Qp8Z0kUeASgX2TgPDfm5IuMSVzczNn9tU6J4dfwqelteBx587Ope5ZInUCIqJLqS_LstJ_xsut-0OnyuzIhtk-xz1gKibTl3bXOA6VJO2n0urPlAnYyD3_ynQ21LRIij5llN-ZGVvG8gRIbtfyzPiqO88XNrNnlouMmRzYj_yOS/s4000/_TJB1625.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2667" data-original-width="4000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2-635s3Lu_vDG9Qp8Z0kUeASgX2TgPDfm5IuMSVzczNn9tU6J4dfwqelteBx587Ope5ZInUCIqJLqS_LstJ_xsut-0OnyuzIhtk-xz1gKibTl3bXOA6VJO2n0urPlAnYyD3_ynQ21LRIij5llN-ZGVvG8gRIbtfyzPiqO88XNrNnlouMmRzYj_yOS/w640-h426/_TJB1625.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></div><p></p><p><span>We climbed up to the walls and the teenager in me was imagining what it took to defend a fortification like this. </span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirF-d35B1GtR8WoS0fK73d4LFtw5BDZRr1kOCIUdz3z7mYhRa67108k2mGLooc4Y4FCZubq4xM9WQLGyROJLafppjybrchb2O4QkbC6Cnwr2mdLh07hPTSB2rGzJORMTY2hHEtM3vqaXmdHpJ23ajGfIH41KyArcu46Hp8PpWhryZup9rYXVLrCuzq/s4000/_TJB1634.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2667" data-original-width="4000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirF-d35B1GtR8WoS0fK73d4LFtw5BDZRr1kOCIUdz3z7mYhRa67108k2mGLooc4Y4FCZubq4xM9WQLGyROJLafppjybrchb2O4QkbC6Cnwr2mdLh07hPTSB2rGzJORMTY2hHEtM3vqaXmdHpJ23ajGfIH41KyArcu46Hp8PpWhryZup9rYXVLrCuzq/w640-h426/_TJB1634.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></div><span><br />The passage along the top of the wall had a perilous drop behind it and I imagine invaders who managed to get onto the wall were encouraged by many hands to keep going and fall to serious injury below.</span><p></p><p><span>The drive to Lisbon featured similarly familiar countryside, rolling hills and green fields. We stopped at a beautiful lookout over the ocean and a beach on the way down to Lisbon.</span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfI_IPzlBclDQ6kVrFROTQSyEokm0dnO-_CegM-_bb4EkyJBs60YL4gMgzz04lngZOjUv0JuOM_448sdl0JiZto3CEXIeiQolE7swQBG5TNNIfK4NmUifRQKTgF4QuBIKWbQ083PVjgrEZ17l3rN8QPJc8_-6uL1ZPoenRGioNCAqaFEFZB6y6vWbZ/s4000/_TJB1696.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2667" data-original-width="4000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfI_IPzlBclDQ6kVrFROTQSyEokm0dnO-_CegM-_bb4EkyJBs60YL4gMgzz04lngZOjUv0JuOM_448sdl0JiZto3CEXIeiQolE7swQBG5TNNIfK4NmUifRQKTgF4QuBIKWbQ083PVjgrEZ17l3rN8QPJc8_-6uL1ZPoenRGioNCAqaFEFZB6y6vWbZ/w640-h426/_TJB1696.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></div><span><br /></span><p></p><p><span>First looks of the city of Lisbon revealed tall, tightly compacted apartment buildings. We spent a night in Lisbon before our train ride to the Southern Coast.<br /></span></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJH8LH8RXJac4TdPIZhSFgxu6AqQjELpnM9qYebWO24XYhX05vTCANgwO41XVFrlNU8pya7Is2ijS6hNJLoYcDKqoiG1NvKnUleEj7ek5xGu-eBOFzJOfDW_KAgXrz1dDqJxwfGIWTAap2fnFLVzCsATICx4gDK6-QDu82fh7wzohfrb_xXFXK5L6I/s3454/IMG_3984.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2591" data-original-width="3454" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJH8LH8RXJac4TdPIZhSFgxu6AqQjELpnM9qYebWO24XYhX05vTCANgwO41XVFrlNU8pya7Is2ijS6hNJLoYcDKqoiG1NvKnUleEj7ek5xGu-eBOFzJOfDW_KAgXrz1dDqJxwfGIWTAap2fnFLVzCsATICx4gDK6-QDu82fh7wzohfrb_xXFXK5L6I/w640-h480/IMG_3984.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><span></span><p></p><p><span>Armanda taught Jessica in Sunday School in Grahamstown and has a photograph that Jess took to her with "love Jessica" on the back written in her 6 year old hand with a green felt-tipped pen. </span><span> </span></p><p><span>It was wonderful to pull on the threads that joined us through all of those years and places. <br /></span></p><span></span>Timhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12828578695145994984noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8344844421099848427.post-5597901584710622132023-03-11T14:26:00.005-08:002023-03-11T15:27:48.085-08:00First glimpse , Portugal<p>The week of the 6th of March saw major industrial action in France, bringing the center of Paris to a standstill on the Monday and Tuesday. Our flight to Portugal on KLM was scheduled with a layover in Paris because of their partnership with Air France and we got an email letting us know that if we liked we could re-book on a different flight for no change fee.</p><p>Anne had picked a Tuesday evening flight because the ticket prices were half that of weekend flights. Our thinking was that with the 5 hour time difference I'd be able work in the airport on Tuesday and we'd get to our AirBnb before my next day's work started (1pm in the afternoon). Rebooking turned out to be out of the question because although the change fees were waived, the tickets were double what we had paid and KLM then allowed us to check in for the scheduled flight so we were going to take our chances.</p><p>We were also told that JFK was going to have many delays so we should be at the airport four hours before our 5:30pm flight. I had to take a couple of meetings while going through customs and again at the gate, which was problematic. Taking a vacation day to do this was an option but I think all considered I was able to put in a solid day's work outside of the disrupted meetings.</p><p>Anne had a cold that she'd picked up in Zicatela (symptoms started in Mexico) but it wasn't more than a mild annoyance and we have both been wearing masks in public transport so we felt comfortable about traveling anyway.</p><p>It was impossible to sleep on the flight - the seats are fairly close together and the people in front of us decided to lower their seat-backs which made it really hard to go to the bathroom without bumping their seats several times on the way out and back which annoyed them a bit... but not as much as I was annoyed about the seat being in my face all the way to France. I looked around and most of the flight had kept their seats upright which I think is polite practice for most flyers.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3l8gmFdNsUAZSPmD8Zo7Lh1MWUkwPbM51UCwN3_Wlh4HrTTEupyzjqzDq5wiqnQBOv-LeW0MojuNvKXvmKT6e51druSTxy5QwzXgvmJ7TL0qAeLqaDswybL4d2uTWyWh67k2g7UMDXw8XFVZMtS8eVehyTrT5I4c33Gv1YBWS7BJF6YQrysrKmnX6/s4032/IMG_3903%202.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3l8gmFdNsUAZSPmD8Zo7Lh1MWUkwPbM51UCwN3_Wlh4HrTTEupyzjqzDq5wiqnQBOv-LeW0MojuNvKXvmKT6e51druSTxy5QwzXgvmJ7TL0qAeLqaDswybL4d2uTWyWh67k2g7UMDXw8XFVZMtS8eVehyTrT5I4c33Gv1YBWS7BJF6YQrysrKmnX6/w640-h480/IMG_3903%202.HEIC" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p>We landed in France really early and I think because our flight was a connection we transitioned through Schengen customs and to our connection without any delays. The flight to Porto - our next destination in Portugal - was delayed by about 30 minutes. Our pilot informed us that it was due to the strikes but it was far better than getting stuck in Paris.</p><p>We were in our AirBnb by about 1pm - an hour before my day started but I needed to get 90min sleep to keep me sane for the day.</p><p>We have been doing this 90 min ritual for a few years of visiting our daughters in England. With little sleep on the plane we figure that a shower and one REM sleep cycle will get us enough gas in the tank to last until the regular bed-time of the country we are visiting. It works well and we've been able to slot into the new time zone fairly easily.</p><p>On Tuesday evening Anne had a tele-consult with a doctor in Romania of all places because the cold had gone to her chest and was affecting her breathing. The doctor sent her a pdf prescription for medicines to treat her asthma and infection which I was able to fill at the pharmacy around the corner from the AirBnb. The medicines cost a fraction of what we pay out of pocket for them, after medical insurance, in the USA.<br /></p><p>That night Anne couldn't sleep because she had a fever and the chest infection had caused a major asthma attack. I was oblivious to this and she didn't wake me, so when I did wake up at about 10am she was really struggling to breathe. She said that we needed to find an emergency room.</p><p>The Uber came quickly and I told the driver: "<span class="text"><i>Não falo português</i></span>" which google translate had told me means "I don't speak Portuguese". The driver was very chatty and went on and on in Portuguese I think telling us how many Uber drivers there are in Porto and how you long you wait depending on where the driver is. I think he was just trying to be friendly but we could only guess what he was saying.</p><p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgriQAQlBfNl5MewT3by8cSkb1QV3vsvFOjCYislR5e4FGvNLw43J9wrab4RAa6yn493NOWMm3aodsykuBBdWEe4PrzpNDtqoG0ELb06r93U_01gfMAwS_fx5mDrS0yPtP0PvETN11ZU-BilBYwjmgPyjn1TpD-iYaazHQNWZXnEVN0TpS7W5BXPK_b/s2048/WhatsApp%20Image%202023-03-10%20at%2012.06.17.jpeg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="430" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgriQAQlBfNl5MewT3by8cSkb1QV3vsvFOjCYislR5e4FGvNLw43J9wrab4RAa6yn493NOWMm3aodsykuBBdWEe4PrzpNDtqoG0ELb06r93U_01gfMAwS_fx5mDrS0yPtP0PvETN11ZU-BilBYwjmgPyjn1TpD-iYaazHQNWZXnEVN0TpS7W5BXPK_b/w323-h430/WhatsApp%20Image%202023-03-10%20at%2012.06.17.jpeg" width="323" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hospital waiting room (Anne's photo)<br /></td></tr></tbody></table>Despite being a Latin language and similar to French and Spanish the pronunciation rules for Portuguese are so different that knowing some Spanish is pretty useless. Spanish is spelled phonetically with few variations on how vowels and consonants are pronounced. Portuguese has rules for how some letters are pronounced depending on where in the word they are, whether they are the last letter of a syllable and depending on the letters that follow them (or not).</p><p></p><p>I made a tactical error of not listening to Anne while the Uber driver was jabbering. She was saying - "to the emergency room" as we went past the sign "Emergency Room" and we ended up getting dropped at the general admissions which forced Anne to walk down a hill and across a parking lot without being able to breathe. Later I asked her if this was as bad as when I formatted her C: drive and lost all her email and lesson plans in 1989. She admitted that 1989 was much worse.</p><p>We spent the whole day in 4 different waiting rooms - seeing the first doctor within 3 hours of arriving and then getting some medication that made her feel much more comfortable within 30 minutes. After that we were shuffled to X-Ray, blood-work and an ECG and then waiting till 5:30pm before seeing a second doctor. </p><p>The COVID tests were negative (we did two before we left for the hospital and they did one) and the diagnosis was acute asthma triggered by the infection.</p><p>The most amazing thing about all of this was that as non-residents we had to pay the full price for the day's treatments and diagnostics. The final total came to roughly what I owed once our medical insurance had paid their portion of my last 15-minute annual dermatological skin exam in the USA.</p><p>The medicine kicked in overnight and Anne was breathing comfortably enough on the Saturday for us to take the Metro into Porto itself for some sightseeing.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgG98tWLdRdzAztXL8g9es_YT4JMUzxtKgOqoL8TpXrJNsi3LJSDcUBUhj6JrLvq6GJ0qP25ZJ-nsth8MC0pe4iGhcpjuyrGFG6vsFsiGTaPcarrIp26C-Ch34I-zPnCBZvWT-HfEMM4six5WEdZgHYDKil1tE8F8fKyEnCwR_kwJsofSGvSI49WrJ/s4032/IMG_3910.HEIC" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgG98tWLdRdzAztXL8g9es_YT4JMUzxtKgOqoL8TpXrJNsi3LJSDcUBUhj6JrLvq6GJ0qP25ZJ-nsth8MC0pe4iGhcpjuyrGFG6vsFsiGTaPcarrIp26C-Ch34I-zPnCBZvWT-HfEMM4six5WEdZgHYDKil1tE8F8fKyEnCwR_kwJsofSGvSI49WrJ/w640-h480/IMG_3910.HEIC" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A view from the Metro stop in Matosinhos, near Porto<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p>It was overcast and bleak but the city is very quaint with narrow streets and tall multi-colored apartments. The city is build on a river not very far from the sea (our AirBnb is right near the beach on the outskirts of the city).</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMG-8R4FMSEMWuHPhXLT4iTyMTMayL9Oeer-KzHFj06QZ9gDJXeC0uHNHxNsY7W3Co4M4TmnaCfFFyNdDwepY8gk_Dr6oznBQNyHqKw7TChHoMcqVdBPy41BSQ0WQk7aiJEOfbCfNngESBNsukrBh07Pq2MyzUN8zwuQVCgWVmdHXMoZRd8syR4gZk/s4000/_TJB1009.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2667" data-original-width="4000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMG-8R4FMSEMWuHPhXLT4iTyMTMayL9Oeer-KzHFj06QZ9gDJXeC0uHNHxNsY7W3Co4M4TmnaCfFFyNdDwepY8gk_Dr6oznBQNyHqKw7TChHoMcqVdBPy41BSQ0WQk7aiJEOfbCfNngESBNsukrBh07Pq2MyzUN8zwuQVCgWVmdHXMoZRd8syR4gZk/w640-h426/_TJB1009.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p>We walked down one of the narrow streets towards the water.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs3Xg7BGRRIrgf5VVlmPIgL6wkMgRu14wrOgLUwi12ab2sfPa38GWSO1O9-4FxS9uwCDDLHQpDW3KiVIRtAyga7ugu4RcODO-Tm0WoVH-3pzi94gouvlE3jKEyFBJGX1QOPcrJwBufIIJsrTpZKx74xisQhO5225sgMNykYMhGj-9ZhPwsFlvb9bBM/s4000/_TJB1019.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2667" data-original-width="4000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs3Xg7BGRRIrgf5VVlmPIgL6wkMgRu14wrOgLUwi12ab2sfPa38GWSO1O9-4FxS9uwCDDLHQpDW3KiVIRtAyga7ugu4RcODO-Tm0WoVH-3pzi94gouvlE3jKEyFBJGX1QOPcrJwBufIIJsrTpZKx74xisQhO5225sgMNykYMhGj-9ZhPwsFlvb9bBM/w640-h426/_TJB1019.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p>Street musicians.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP686VjyYcuIJHh210jQogNNnD0PtHgvnhGHoghcc5Y-77MJBrj2mTFNlsdbpthexEwzd-2-PP3XhlI6S1SdnhPMuO-nxAOFJN-yH7CGa7KBnGna-ux--n1iY-R6GlQl0Upi9oysh2fLJ-TORQOcYR7h9iEevRdRilIxCUjzw3HSS9R0btpJemMW4n/s4000/_TJB1018.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2667" data-original-width="4000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP686VjyYcuIJHh210jQogNNnD0PtHgvnhGHoghcc5Y-77MJBrj2mTFNlsdbpthexEwzd-2-PP3XhlI6S1SdnhPMuO-nxAOFJN-yH7CGa7KBnGna-ux--n1iY-R6GlQl0Upi9oysh2fLJ-TORQOcYR7h9iEevRdRilIxCUjzw3HSS9R0btpJemMW4n/w640-h426/_TJB1018.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p>Wall art.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJmg9FxoavSo27f9_ABbpaZWbp_uKZKJ0cff2hfmD5vB63rqLl1F5yuDyBjzR7VQpvKDMCz-3g2a12ZcmMZu4k0eTTEIVh--HJtzzRuZwB2Ui0zssnKS6rqXTuNMDQYtFD64ZonlEspcRZUXB5i_FPvwPm2CP98mNg11Cu2-wFGr2B20qNZi5I9DFV/s4000/_TJB1013.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="2667" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJmg9FxoavSo27f9_ABbpaZWbp_uKZKJ0cff2hfmD5vB63rqLl1F5yuDyBjzR7VQpvKDMCz-3g2a12ZcmMZu4k0eTTEIVh--HJtzzRuZwB2Ui0zssnKS6rqXTuNMDQYtFD64ZonlEspcRZUXB5i_FPvwPm2CP98mNg11Cu2-wFGr2B20qNZi5I9DFV/w426-h640/_TJB1013.jpg" width="426" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p>And beautiful mosaic tiles in a station</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4O_c-oD24UPZ-R57Sde_WlHQ13JGBHQKn5Avgido2cKl0sZxNwKRgK46GZHaFaOawo0S1lgn5Z_7a0gGOW_ahej9FKGvkaI89mN3JcHEOkpmtz-YaDkk1-wGvvRfSwAK8Y3H9HBwRwMCTNdRgclCS_D6T09eY8v7k1yJ2QeT8Th3OGjLyFeP_0QPt/s4000/_TJB0996_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2663" data-original-width="4000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4O_c-oD24UPZ-R57Sde_WlHQ13JGBHQKn5Avgido2cKl0sZxNwKRgK46GZHaFaOawo0S1lgn5Z_7a0gGOW_ahej9FKGvkaI89mN3JcHEOkpmtz-YaDkk1-wGvvRfSwAK8Y3H9HBwRwMCTNdRgclCS_D6T09eY8v7k1yJ2QeT8Th3OGjLyFeP_0QPt/w640-h426/_TJB0996_HDR.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p>and near the river bank.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCcLPRlEWPOVmRv9E7Td4oP77lDrGr7BXjjB1wtlPG-M5obbkOKM6nFe09hEUvSoIm0Zf4DdwXlSnqNknKpfNGYb9rDrYIguGEt4TuMTKGwZNZN2PtLdJ0hFxLcm2aFa8cSAvbLXhjoSRUnRrz62gSESsoBKcmx3V3TiBrAO3hrExkBYAv3wPJBAtZ/s4000/_TJB1035.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2667" data-original-width="4000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCcLPRlEWPOVmRv9E7Td4oP77lDrGr7BXjjB1wtlPG-M5obbkOKM6nFe09hEUvSoIm0Zf4DdwXlSnqNknKpfNGYb9rDrYIguGEt4TuMTKGwZNZN2PtLdJ0hFxLcm2aFa8cSAvbLXhjoSRUnRrz62gSESsoBKcmx3V3TiBrAO3hrExkBYAv3wPJBAtZ/w640-h426/_TJB1035.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><br /><p></p><p>We decided to pay for the rather expensive boat ride on the river to see the city from the water.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivi3N6VycOLeleaZBjT9FEeqwcQGsVC_Nat35mpVAUjmWft4WHN7BYdB5JhLjDEMebD0L6dXRQaXH_5sJ-ulAl1rCMReNKfRuXZPj7yuD7p8bx_5nDhp2IESJ2EnFlYJ0Cdl5JZiCSfcCqiuNvZXvbh5qRZUM0TWkUAzQ5GN7LsOJpnLjJ8EwsA06I/s4000/_TJB1094.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2667" data-original-width="4000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivi3N6VycOLeleaZBjT9FEeqwcQGsVC_Nat35mpVAUjmWft4WHN7BYdB5JhLjDEMebD0L6dXRQaXH_5sJ-ulAl1rCMReNKfRuXZPj7yuD7p8bx_5nDhp2IESJ2EnFlYJ0Cdl5JZiCSfcCqiuNvZXvbh5qRZUM0TWkUAzQ5GN7LsOJpnLjJ8EwsA06I/w640-h426/_TJB1094.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p>What was astonishing was the number of river frontage buildings that are abandoned and run down. We read an article describing how Portugal suffered from the housing bubble bursting, leaving people with properties that they couldn't afford. I have also read that there are laws in Portugal about renovations and inherited properties that make them too expensive to manage. Added to that are the difficulties in managing rental tenants, often resulting in the properties being left to disintegrate rather than pouring money into them.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh05i2n06yfkuOpirWxLrzfycG7LtgIh80MKrhXXfyctqHm_CaEUK6y1sEfvtla1QeYdZUbjPsPLAzbeGklBFSxUi7jp12fWA7dgBZOz73JeE_xhvEAdGOJKgjZ-nbDhVd-INNZ1RJLDUgP8uLOO5yJ00a_lwjqqoePwfMPBHXkodBV1I9Rr-xcxlu6/s4000/_TJB1083.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2667" data-original-width="4000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh05i2n06yfkuOpirWxLrzfycG7LtgIh80MKrhXXfyctqHm_CaEUK6y1sEfvtla1QeYdZUbjPsPLAzbeGklBFSxUi7jp12fWA7dgBZOz73JeE_xhvEAdGOJKgjZ-nbDhVd-INNZ1RJLDUgP8uLOO5yJ00a_lwjqqoePwfMPBHXkodBV1I9Rr-xcxlu6/w640-h426/_TJB1083.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p>We ended our Saturday with a ride in a little scooter - what we called a "Tuk-tuk" in Guatemala - driven by a man from Chile who agreed that Portuguese is hard. He said that in Brazil it is easier to understand the Portuguese but that the European Portuguese pronunciation was really difficult.</p><p>I'm determined to learn how to greet and how to order food in Portuguese - also how to apologize, which it turns our is very important in a country where you know nothing.<br /></p>Timhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12828578695145994984noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8344844421099848427.post-76670778381224026422023-03-09T03:29:00.020-08:002023-03-09T10:33:37.532-08:00Closing a chapter<p>We had one last tranquil week in Mexico and a rude awakening during our layover in New York city that closed the chapter on our adventures in Central America.</p><p>We spent our second week in Zicatela with an already established daily routine that included trips to one or other of the local restaurants and a late afternoon trip to one of the beaches. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEs0kGg-8fKN3WxA9utr4lYqsVY1EyAA0MLPcYvRMIFdju4byOL_2AJlKtfqNiFXU9Onh0Zh87OLWoFtoa65fZE1p3T14C0EFXxLLh2GqOMjA8C5ISWRpS_pgSiq3tZHRXqvjJCs221ncuJ7SUhl95Kpz9YtpHBGLe1YBgl2Jvr3YpeensklEWOk1Q/s4032/IMG_3879.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEs0kGg-8fKN3WxA9utr4lYqsVY1EyAA0MLPcYvRMIFdju4byOL_2AJlKtfqNiFXU9Onh0Zh87OLWoFtoa65fZE1p3T14C0EFXxLLh2GqOMjA8C5ISWRpS_pgSiq3tZHRXqvjJCs221ncuJ7SUhl95Kpz9YtpHBGLe1YBgl2Jvr3YpeensklEWOk1Q/w640-h480/IMG_3879.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /> Anne started referring to the several young baristas and waitresses that I struck up conversations with in Spanish as "your girls" - a reference to how charmed I was by them. At one coffee shop in particular there was a lovely young girl who was happy to correct my Spanish and suggest ways to greet her, place orders and promise to return soon.<br /><p></p><p>
</p><div style="-en-clipboard: true;">Our casual Spanish conversation is improving and I’m almost at the point where I’ll be able to say that my Spanish is as good as my Afrikaans. As I'm writing this I'm imagining my friend Kees saying loudly “and that’s not saying much!”
</div><div><br /></div><div>Kees and his family are South African friends we met in 2001 after we had been in the USA for about 9 months and he is off on his own journey right now with an RV, his destinations unfolding a little like ours, excepting his wheels never leave the tarmac. He has also been <a href="https://rv-kggc.blogspot.com">documenting his travels</a>.
</div><div><br /></div><div>We have more or less been insisting to our waiters that we’d like to use Spanish where possible. The waiters in Zicatela and La Punta come from all over the world and all speak fluent Spanish after spending a few months at the coast. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK94sIWOU2FYC5q6cE53IHeIwktBzMhXOiNvS-GPKoI5xtxKPUZ9huTLOt85quCVExUzmVGyQGjxokMroOXMeBxOAo4rGnA1fQm0bUoj0h4PUhUfeuKFa1X98FMoqWzCbrRqjxZd_q7iyAa3MSVNM1I3Rz8KiCMM6dcmzkVpGvlSNUEfyZZLiCrHhu/s4032/IMG_3874.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK94sIWOU2FYC5q6cE53IHeIwktBzMhXOiNvS-GPKoI5xtxKPUZ9huTLOt85quCVExUzmVGyQGjxokMroOXMeBxOAo4rGnA1fQm0bUoj0h4PUhUfeuKFa1X98FMoqWzCbrRqjxZd_q7iyAa3MSVNM1I3Rz8KiCMM6dcmzkVpGvlSNUEfyZZLiCrHhu/w640-h480/IMG_3874.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />A French girl told us that she came to Puerto Escondido for a 5 day holiday two years before and had never left and an Italian waiter insisted we try his home-made pesto to remind us of Italy when he heard we'd visited Florence.</div><div><br /></div><div>A sweet Argentinian girl (another one of “mis chicas” according to Anne) said “Oh I remember you! En Español!” when we stopped by for the second time and passed us a menu in Spanish as she led us to our table.
</div><div><br /></div><div>At one lunch in a quiet restaurant near our AirBnb I asked the waiter if the woman behind the counter in the kitchen was his mother. He is young, perhaps early twenties and we discovered the restaurant (in retrospect this is probably true of many of them) was run by his mom and his two brothers and when I asked where his dad was, he shrugged matter of factly and said "who knows?"
</div><div><br /></div><div>Our beach trips - after my workday ended or on weekend days - continued to feature crazy big waves on most days and mostly vain attempts on my part to body surf. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEN-lOPnlcAFl7EU-uSax6XtuKS0XrTAEEJTP1t9-_pqAUKfMZMx4mw9DYJQxlorWJdEpTE0hT2CfUfr4jURujQQoZDlh2__S9rCV3bWueU2tKeBDEJPY2JqHJq_vU2OdZ3t-ZsVo3GJZVI89YWdrI0va0Ejd-IQfmbmKyvpnFl0KIhSZ_u3ewMg0r/s3672/_TJB9746.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2449" data-original-width="3672" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEN-lOPnlcAFl7EU-uSax6XtuKS0XrTAEEJTP1t9-_pqAUKfMZMx4mw9DYJQxlorWJdEpTE0hT2CfUfr4jURujQQoZDlh2__S9rCV3bWueU2tKeBDEJPY2JqHJq_vU2OdZ3t-ZsVo3GJZVI89YWdrI0va0Ejd-IQfmbmKyvpnFl0KIhSZ_u3ewMg0r/w640-h426/_TJB9746.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /> I did catch a few good waves but invariably got tumbled and ended up with a pile of sand in my hair.
</div><div><br /></div><div>There is a portion of the main beach that has a rocky outcrop in the ocean close to the beach and has slightly less violent waves. Anne took to going there in the early afternoons because of the flocks of pelicans that hovered and dove into the sea there. She called it Pelican Beach. </div><div><br /></div><div>Really close to Pelican Beach is a lookout where on the Saturday we saw a girl and her family dressed up beautifully for the young girl's <span class="ILfuVd" lang="en"><span class="hgKElc">quinceañera. Turning 15 is a huge deal for young girls in Central America and there are usually large parties to celebrate the right of passage into womanhood. The young girl wore a peach colored dress and her mother wore a head-dress that reminded us of Frida Kahlo's. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhfjI79QqBYth1oPP208LRjuGjzWP6Z-9AMeed18JC9ITFmV8HJv1iFCvjaErDa9ppqgABE0mM1Tz239e1JfBg7secg4zplfweHRN71JGQ5vc_teIcrTTxNikZtl7k9qtXi4yBo9FLQ5Vy9f83Q49fCMkpNkc_2bEYBFLfDm7u41enPibaAOAPhuMw/s4032/IMG_3809-2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhfjI79QqBYth1oPP208LRjuGjzWP6Z-9AMeed18JC9ITFmV8HJv1iFCvjaErDa9ppqgABE0mM1Tz239e1JfBg7secg4zplfweHRN71JGQ5vc_teIcrTTxNikZtl7k9qtXi4yBo9FLQ5Vy9f83Q49fCMkpNkc_2bEYBFLfDm7u41enPibaAOAPhuMw/w640-h480/IMG_3809-2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />I remembered that at the Frida Kahlo museum they mentioned that she had adopted some of the traditional clothing and headdresses of the </span></span>Tehuana in the Oaxaca region because this was where her mother was from.</div><div><span class="ILfuVd" lang="en"></span></div><div><span class="ILfuVd" lang="en"></span></div><div><span class="ILfuVd" lang="en"><span class="hgKElc"></span></span></div><div> <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPRMUlwHVnaMGAS8LAOGn_cKR1tquiX3NWQoslFiIEmaUnPo56bd3qvLT8LZKwx8-_NSPLOi6_NGfcN6C05OBO8Y5SOPGL3S6IcEDE3f6XFlHxPJbV9py7CrF12HjF_gmKojc3CURo-VhaBozdBfk59kEn0m84Dtou4hANZpxRkW2rv6ERmonNEPL2/s4629/_TJB0926.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3086" data-original-width="4629" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPRMUlwHVnaMGAS8LAOGn_cKR1tquiX3NWQoslFiIEmaUnPo56bd3qvLT8LZKwx8-_NSPLOi6_NGfcN6C05OBO8Y5SOPGL3S6IcEDE3f6XFlHxPJbV9py7CrF12HjF_gmKojc3CURo-VhaBozdBfk59kEn0m84Dtou4hANZpxRkW2rv6ERmonNEPL2/w640-h426/_TJB0926.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /></div><div>Our sunsets on the beach also came with some pretty spectacular surfing and wake board action which were amazing to watch.
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dxy_mDmtFnDxbmqR3lTdrU019FRQscb8jSqgPt5M5oaLcEcsNsUyOJFg9--oLy-Ntn9_fFNkQg-d76wU9Z5gg' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>The beach had this sign as you enter that said “no smoking” multiple times in multiple languages but was largely ignored. We usually had to navigate to a spot closest to the water to allow the sea breeze to reduce the chance of cigarette smoke triggering Anne's asthma.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNzUt8wbt3_STWUS_RlhhadHyn1mZi4mK6VqJOQatj9cjhNfeO9jxAh_AahkR44o7Jd0hSrvrPklz4biJXfSeQ3XQIl5mtJphKDOyeJXkbW9tsnmilTKXH37bIt_omzOqIuH9nCwQWxPeVGGI0uJjljfFg3PrXjC6-eh1jzHYrT1HPyYkW6Em3i6ZS/s4032/IMG_3817.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNzUt8wbt3_STWUS_RlhhadHyn1mZi4mK6VqJOQatj9cjhNfeO9jxAh_AahkR44o7Jd0hSrvrPklz4biJXfSeQ3XQIl5mtJphKDOyeJXkbW9tsnmilTKXH37bIt_omzOqIuH9nCwQWxPeVGGI0uJjljfFg3PrXjC6-eh1jzHYrT1HPyYkW6Em3i6ZS/w640-h480/IMG_3817.jpg" width="640" /></a></div></div><div> </div><div>Since we’d given up the scooter, our taxi rides were filled with conversations with the drivers and a chance to repeat a set of common topics. Where are you from? How long did you live there? Where are you going next? Do you have children? All of which offer a wealth of phrases to practice and to listen to how the taxi drivers phrased things.
</div><div><br /></div><div>At the end of our 11th week in Central America we headed back to Mexico for one day. We spent the day visiting Nick and the small coffee shop near him where we were greeted warmly. We also met his girlfriend from Colombia who speaks a little English. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhP8e327s40EDB3WVxx6_wciALmTYGnyMamK3NGljU0QAXaYb9Mz4xiv90vSiPfwcE010zqJW263ULZJfjgmd2h-X-HFU-fLGw_2J30637uWw8fSGRFkcFCtxHzQsuLlNb2BeD2vKNup9nQVSVYGzkjJLWJEtrCMKlzKXj7TDnZPjbzJKN7wcl1ADA/s1024/WhatsApp%20Image%202023-03-09%20at%2006.16.55.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhP8e327s40EDB3WVxx6_wciALmTYGnyMamK3NGljU0QAXaYb9Mz4xiv90vSiPfwcE010zqJW263ULZJfjgmd2h-X-HFU-fLGw_2J30637uWw8fSGRFkcFCtxHzQsuLlNb2BeD2vKNup9nQVSVYGzkjJLWJEtrCMKlzKXj7TDnZPjbzJKN7wcl1ADA/w640-h480/WhatsApp%20Image%202023-03-09%20at%2006.16.55.jpeg" width="640" /></a></div><br />She loved hearing some of our family anecdotes told in halting Spanish.
</div><div><br /></div><div>The trip to New York involved an Uber ride from JFK airport. The driver was from Venezuela and apologized at the start that her English was weak so we ended up with the same pattern of questions and phrases in Spanish that we had practiced in Mexico for the hour long trip to Manhattan. She was quite interested in the composition of people and languages of South Africa and complemented us on what she considered unaccented Spanish. <br /></div><div><br /></div><div>Our hotel in New York was in the evocative Hell's Kitchen section of Manhattan, just a few blocks from Times Square. <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieJic4_f6O01w79BXi0jKo6GxNihZqAh_iaK3jOogF4BSKg1kkeEa4U-knIUFI5B5rxu6_AbrJ-bh_5P0a-9uLzys3WdcU6hLp_iv-kqlaIKGNLP8VfWh05-uGnJkKLa8SDjnIhnVh7eBPE0cvpKlsibBaFdDyRtSRdMM7lttI8bZJI_a1L_KpWQmD/s4032/IMG_3891.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieJic4_f6O01w79BXi0jKo6GxNihZqAh_iaK3jOogF4BSKg1kkeEa4U-knIUFI5B5rxu6_AbrJ-bh_5P0a-9uLzys3WdcU6hLp_iv-kqlaIKGNLP8VfWh05-uGnJkKLa8SDjnIhnVh7eBPE0cvpKlsibBaFdDyRtSRdMM7lttI8bZJI_a1L_KpWQmD/w640-h480/IMG_3891.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A restaurant in Hell's Kitchen<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /></div><div> We met Matt, who took the train trip from New Haven especially to meet us and his girlfriend joined us at an Indian restaurant for a surprisingly affordable meal on the Sunday evening. We were so engrossed in our conversation with them that we forgot to take a photo of all of us.<br /></div><div> </div><div>On the Monday evening after work we headed out to find a clothing store. I am traveling really light and my jeans were showing signs of falling apart so we had decided to find a new pair and to look for some new shoes for Anne because her shoes had suffered the same fate as my jeans.
</div><div><br /></div><div>We have been to New York about 5 times altogether and Times Square is one of the places we've always visited. This time around, though, we really had no intention of going there but our route to the nearest Levi store went right through it so we had no choice. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGgjxJu1jgQeqYrf4e5aHTLJWb0uM8IgCaZqk0ENABRqaaEf2OPH-9YKvw58TEUNu_WP6H9F7jzWArDIW7yru1JnNR69NPzi62Ys__bWWyfBudR8rfONLmIF83RifP1xUWEay4vLntgf1Z3Wrzfm1xjJAShk3VwvV8-7WjHP6vGQCyxIKvGh6P4J8n/s3088/IMG_3897.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2316" data-original-width="3088" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGgjxJu1jgQeqYrf4e5aHTLJWb0uM8IgCaZqk0ENABRqaaEf2OPH-9YKvw58TEUNu_WP6H9F7jzWArDIW7yru1JnNR69NPzi62Ys__bWWyfBudR8rfONLmIF83RifP1xUWEay4vLntgf1Z3Wrzfm1xjJAShk3VwvV8-7WjHP6vGQCyxIKvGh6P4J8n/w640-h480/IMG_3897.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />If you've never visited there you should know that it is always teaming with people and has probably the most expensive restaurants in the country. </div><div> </div><div>It was loud as usual and had a bunch of crazy costumed characters who we deftly avoided only to be interrupted by a man with the question “do you have a minute?” It was innocent enough and our guard was down so we politely replied that we didn't - to which he, with a broad disarming grin replied "it’s because I’m black isn’t it?" which made us both laugh. "No, it’s not…"<br />
</div><div><br /></div><div>He then asked where we were from and Anne said "South Africa" to which he replied: "Well then, you’re blacker than me!" which was pretty funny too.
</div><div><br /></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiPtG8bq20nUOFe5WBft6Yppedli3U-6cibXO5x9-pSM2aWhfT6XdR5zIzIPX1nJDj60dgOXyDGoSrOZi--XMf00v9Yj3fy1vb1MoJSTKURKk_J9Tvfm-3RiwKZJJZ8-GA1J7DrqlA7RMWX-D2lR19pHxbJ9IkhtmycU0RbDaqP2JOqESnOO3FZMTh/s4032/IMG_3901.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiPtG8bq20nUOFe5WBft6Yppedli3U-6cibXO5x9-pSM2aWhfT6XdR5zIzIPX1nJDj60dgOXyDGoSrOZi--XMf00v9Yj3fy1vb1MoJSTKURKk_J9Tvfm-3RiwKZJJZ8-GA1J7DrqlA7RMWX-D2lR19pHxbJ9IkhtmycU0RbDaqP2JOqESnOO3FZMTh/s320/IMG_3901.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>I got sidelined by what appeared to be his friend who passed me a small CD sized sleeve with a marketing card in it and QR codes while he did the same for Anne. </div><div><br /> He said that he and his mates were in a band and were promoting their tour. He asked my name and then invented a gansta slag nickname for me "T-smooth" which wasn't too original (Anne was given the nickname "A-sexy") and then dropped the question of whether we were going to be able to help them with a donation.<br /></div><div> </div>I'll claim that our recent visits to Central America, where we didn't really experience any "hard sells" lulled us into complacency and we ended up donating to "their band" at which point they revealed that they were in different bands! Who would have thought! One even offered to bring over a credit card machine for a donation which left me gasping.
<div><br /></div><div>Anne stopped donating after handing out 3 bills and we made our way out of the group which was now 5 people, two of them complaining rather aggressively that they were being short-changed.
</div><div><br /></div><div>As we walked away I said to Anne “did we just get fleeced?” She was unfazed. “We did!” But I think we were also a little impressed at how it had gone down. “Damn we were so naive, but they were so entertaining!”
</div><div><br /></div><div>One the way home we found a little Italian restaurant off a side road. Also affordable and with a server from Uruguay and a waitress from Kazakhstan.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI4n2JZeoHQ4HV65Fx0XvyzYKyTkLxOXhKZQNGQsRwr86OtHcpWkhQ3Zxg-48pkKBVGLR9XxDGT7g30TkUAfPf_lkr7MjQUElEw7O7hS_EhhPwnpG4GIqK6uPkQi8-IGWu-eIplCogExZZi1WN_6o7lRoK3-2HPG75F8NqYH_halRTo8y-cLIMdMf5/s4032/IMG_3899.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI4n2JZeoHQ4HV65Fx0XvyzYKyTkLxOXhKZQNGQsRwr86OtHcpWkhQ3Zxg-48pkKBVGLR9XxDGT7g30TkUAfPf_lkr7MjQUElEw7O7hS_EhhPwnpG4GIqK6uPkQi8-IGWu-eIplCogExZZi1WN_6o7lRoK3-2HPG75F8NqYH_halRTo8y-cLIMdMf5/w640-h480/IMG_3899.jpg" width="640" /></a></div></div><div><br /></div><div>On the way home a older guy with a white cane tried to strike up a conversation near our hotel in Hells Kitchen and we brushed him off rather rudely. We had learned our lesson. </div><div><br /></div><div><br /><br /></div>Timhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12828578695145994984noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8344844421099848427.post-49902862394709197792023-02-26T06:22:00.002-08:002023-02-27T11:27:14.716-08:00Losing our way<p>After two and a half weeks in Puerto Escondido Centro we were packed and ready to move to our next AirBnb.</p><p>We were fairly adept at flagging down taxis at this point but our luggage is not the "minimalist" ideal so we had to roll our two suitcases and our backpacks plus a couple of grocery bags to the closest busy corner and hail a taxi from there.</p><p>A lesson we should have learned about figuring out where we were going next is to properly pin-point the location before getting into the taxi. So when we got in I gave an approximate direction, the equivalent of "head in the direction of..." that you might use while you sort yourself out with the actual address. I suppose a companion rule is to have the address copied to both of you so you each have it on your phones...<br /></p><p>We had bought an unlimited international data plan before starting on our trip and it has been excellent for us in all the places that we have visited so I was able to use Anne's AirBnb app to click on the "directions to your AirBnb" button and have it show us precisely where we needed to go. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2J6K468Euv2dEEfVx7PjzUeurIb5CyhtxMeeLtAB26oioJeTogGD1LKozBBEENt9_-jKXXW_HikxIhzJuMzUyi4D8D8xX4p2RkeZ_q6A03Tz2WJOG2bfkD8z5BQFcJg6cZmBpE4mT4hCqSWeRPfMiZYZSqf9a-qtXuBfIhYkZ42nM0fy6I_XX2WRR/s4032/IMG_3811.HEIC" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2J6K468Euv2dEEfVx7PjzUeurIb5CyhtxMeeLtAB26oioJeTogGD1LKozBBEENt9_-jKXXW_HikxIhzJuMzUyi4D8D8xX4p2RkeZ_q6A03Tz2WJOG2bfkD8z5BQFcJg6cZmBpE4mT4hCqSWeRPfMiZYZSqf9a-qtXuBfIhYkZ42nM0fy6I_XX2WRR/s320/IMG_3811.HEIC" width="320" /></a></div>Anne was very disappointed when I let her know that the directions were taking us to a place on the opposite side of the highway from the sea and our hearts sank when we arrived at the spot indicated on the map... it looked pretty run down and nothing like the photograph in the app.<br /><p></p><p>I went inside to ask someone whether this was an AirBnb location but I left Anne's phone with her so when the obvious followup question, "What is the name of your AirBnb" came, the exercise became pretty fruitless. I didn't even know the name of the AirBnb, let alone the actual address. </p><p>They confirmed that they were not an AirBnb, so I went back to the taxi where Anne had managed to find another address. The patient taxi driver took us over to that new location where there was still nothing promising in sight.</p><p>We were both a little frazzled at this point. I was imagining a repeat of <a href="https://timbouwer.blogspot.com/2023/01/guatemala-antigua.html">our experience in Antigua </a>where the Bookings.com location turned out to not exist. I saw a small local restaurant across the road and suggested to Anne that we let the taxi go and take a seat there, get some food and/or something to drink and plan our next move.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI7xwe_peZWgthJtGwG-RWhw0LhRjJ_rnqfOdenf6h3A8mWG-1ohuNGG7QoijvkuTPG-RvaKXBEYuz5hqk5ao-dVJmsPZ3mybSNspnKhO12xT_VefuInr-w3A65DiKFrRGOotiV5tuYfEnHenPXrV7mr81eDftF4mrU4UoPZf1bzYavMbupekxFDnc/s1454/Screenshot%202023-02-25%20at%204.41.20%20PM.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="886" data-original-width="1454" height="244" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI7xwe_peZWgthJtGwG-RWhw0LhRjJ_rnqfOdenf6h3A8mWG-1ohuNGG7QoijvkuTPG-RvaKXBEYuz5hqk5ao-dVJmsPZ3mybSNspnKhO12xT_VefuInr-w3A65DiKFrRGOotiV5tuYfEnHenPXrV7mr81eDftF4mrU4UoPZf1bzYavMbupekxFDnc/w400-h244/Screenshot%202023-02-25%20at%204.41.20%20PM.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>This wasn't a great idea because we had some frozen goods in the shopping bags but at that point I was willing to sacrifice the frozen food for a more careful consideration of our next steps. It took a few moments for us to realize that there weren't any taxis driving up the road we were on but I was happy to defer solving that problem until we'd sat for a little bit and finished a juice and (in my case) a beer.<br /><p></p><p>A young girl sitting at one of the tables, probably around 10 or 11 years old, was listening to me asking in my rough Spanish if they knew anything about the AirBnb that I still didn't have a name for. </p><p>She said something to me in English and I told her that she spoke English so well. She said she was from Los Angeles but now living in Puerto Escondido. The older person at the shop was her grandmother and her mother was working there too. She said she didn't have any friends because she didn't speak Spanish. In retrospect I suspect this may have been an exaggeration but I also realized that her family may have been among the many expelled from the USA for being there illegally after she'd spent her childhood there.</p><p>She then asked me where the "woman" was (she meant Anne) who had vanished while I was talking to her grandmother and her. </p><p>We looked around for her and I was wondering if she had gone to look for a bathroom when a taxi pulled up with her in it. She had searched for the AirBnb by name on google maps and then walked to the end of the street, hailed a taxi and told him to pick me up. </p><p>We had a third destination that we were going to make our way to. </p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiBeNW5Dr8cNh0si7a7H-HhauHT-gmlTP2IDUe-skxpAMIrpZCN1UKLFC9LrEIIq7fOyz9sFKyYqyODdpEoYyzACEz7z_dhGroH3W4RsM4Qc8khga9D0bw59Hf2maYcRfi2GNmMIlkTpQifdZT_GeWvmtprMjAp8UC6S_zdOqLArI_zh-C8R0V8cRw/s4032/IMG_3734.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiBeNW5Dr8cNh0si7a7H-HhauHT-gmlTP2IDUe-skxpAMIrpZCN1UKLFC9LrEIIq7fOyz9sFKyYqyODdpEoYyzACEz7z_dhGroH3W4RsM4Qc8khga9D0bw59Hf2maYcRfi2GNmMIlkTpQifdZT_GeWvmtprMjAp8UC6S_zdOqLArI_zh-C8R0V8cRw/w640-h480/IMG_3734.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p>This one turned out to be the correct address and, although I missed my
2pm work meeting I was able to settle in and set up my digital world for
the rest of the workday within a few minutes of arriving.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6cD482JTmutyLQjUSIiJS0O2HAOkkL7p_SU4HiQm8lYmla6hEx8ujQPOh62Tcfg1J1oqLoieNaisSNsPPlIhWfPVjoC5iSQLp2ke2EYiThZq1JBBH8fiJzkrKsqNtQP8tP-btQofBFSHgX6m7Pa5CRPoPZ0SjLdQhm6zWxre9VtnJqW-u_46n9FNt/s4032/IMG_3735.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6cD482JTmutyLQjUSIiJS0O2HAOkkL7p_SU4HiQm8lYmla6hEx8ujQPOh62Tcfg1J1oqLoieNaisSNsPPlIhWfPVjoC5iSQLp2ke2EYiThZq1JBBH8fiJzkrKsqNtQP8tP-btQofBFSHgX6m7Pa5CRPoPZ0SjLdQhm6zWxre9VtnJqW-u_46n9FNt/w640-h480/IMG_3735.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p>Our new stomping ground was the roughly two and a half mile-long (4km) beach on the South West of Puerto Escondido, </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEfDCLSWJLtNjNMmeXi6BbJYY8WE4dyAgw_UKcUmMRO9WYTN943K76F2R1DV8gyPPBSwzavCsMknfCa4LtHo5DDQfa6zE-y80h6vW-xPRI857TY2n2sK0PF2QIM9-OFrbEvM4ZB-cEW-jvy5cwaNNxlyjPaKILDRWDsBs8Dbnho0Vc5eAAMJT3AKJ7/s4032/IMG_3808.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEfDCLSWJLtNjNMmeXi6BbJYY8WE4dyAgw_UKcUmMRO9WYTN943K76F2R1DV8gyPPBSwzavCsMknfCa4LtHo5DDQfa6zE-y80h6vW-xPRI857TY2n2sK0PF2QIM9-OFrbEvM4ZB-cEW-jvy5cwaNNxlyjPaKILDRWDsBs8Dbnho0Vc5eAAMJT3AKJ7/w640-h480/IMG_3808.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />much closer to the very touristy beach at La Punta with its crowded streets and restaurants - including the lovely Chicama restaurant. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUKYS3vhHvvlupJ3UJC8IMVU2gMrHthYS3uIMHzTTdjjOTm_kZhvJPBJYhFtRqcfmhyVgpm644UxuZzDcidq0m8afset1X5Y2h0nUq2CSZdPw6mwOMTMF6DOa1Tekoe0s6Y8V9oucSsCk0ACIXUW_sxBOEJoBIq4SHWxHKib_EsRl3ldUjZaMnQUTy/s6000/_TJB9697.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUKYS3vhHvvlupJ3UJC8IMVU2gMrHthYS3uIMHzTTdjjOTm_kZhvJPBJYhFtRqcfmhyVgpm644UxuZzDcidq0m8afset1X5Y2h0nUq2CSZdPw6mwOMTMF6DOa1Tekoe0s6Y8V9oucSsCk0ACIXUW_sxBOEJoBIq4SHWxHKib_EsRl3ldUjZaMnQUTy/w640-h426/_TJB9697.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />where the bar staff brighten your day, and the vegetarian restaurant Piyoli restaurant which also has a branch a couple of blocks from Nick's apartment in Mexico City.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiauQ9Lv4UQBAGimTKEoTWNI7hAVCDK-Yxf4VITJEFrtu5jSTR5c6U4d_kC4FR6J_2dsUwgGJ7H8qzSLYSBBPEn7XE2dcHS5Sd_OHUrfwSjdowlEJZRHtU2y59ZUa4yRkBYZvectC1XL6CAYDAy-ZunqELamx0RB0xQN_jsGDXWU9V0QeCiFUvkx6Z/s4032/IMG_3753.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiauQ9Lv4UQBAGimTKEoTWNI7hAVCDK-Yxf4VITJEFrtu5jSTR5c6U4d_kC4FR6J_2dsUwgGJ7H8qzSLYSBBPEn7XE2dcHS5Sd_OHUrfwSjdowlEJZRHtU2y59ZUa4yRkBYZvectC1XL6CAYDAy-ZunqELamx0RB0xQN_jsGDXWU9V0QeCiFUvkx6Z/w640-h480/IMG_3753.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p>My workday routine didn't change much other than for the fact that this AirBnb has a pool and the beach is not much more than a 10min walk from us. We discovered that this entire stretch of beach is marked with danger signs (mostly ignored) warning not to swim.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQrlR-9vCBom1gia1znVyq8A2-STguRrLtHgMna2L7IhDMs7IF0pu3r4rHoYYSKKbum1fQLD-Q3K-gGoSPNSQ9ZMr4huUMjCcAZR5ofjXEnWjuy8PnInd42fT4eFDVEc6W7GVz9JIh8lB9c_aEA-MfM-1Ufi9YiwggQd49KaWHHUUJaoJnrYyI7d9o/s2927/_TJB8949.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1953" data-original-width="2927" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQrlR-9vCBom1gia1znVyq8A2-STguRrLtHgMna2L7IhDMs7IF0pu3r4rHoYYSKKbum1fQLD-Q3K-gGoSPNSQ9ZMr4huUMjCcAZR5ofjXEnWjuy8PnInd42fT4eFDVEc6W7GVz9JIh8lB9c_aEA-MfM-1Ufi9YiwggQd49KaWHHUUJaoJnrYyI7d9o/w640-h428/_TJB8949.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sun illuminates the waves as they break with a surreal effect<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /> There are a couple of lifeguard stations along the beach and the waves crash unrelenting on the shore. <p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoo0pXqSOQ_-daE6KQ3YzVv4jOCeEqJYWWBLGMc8-1aDThvVkjVJfAgnUUzpwEiQc-1IU0yYU8TyNusXVJI5bkXvRrNJCU5fxg1Wud0aGiBGN7BjxyDP9YEIX4w3Ux-1YImPEZtQyxuB5CoXIyeQb8Bybn1VtljNCqBND3BKdxEtRYNZDKm2CHBuxF/s4053/_TJB9267.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2702" data-original-width="4053" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoo0pXqSOQ_-daE6KQ3YzVv4jOCeEqJYWWBLGMc8-1aDThvVkjVJfAgnUUzpwEiQc-1IU0yYU8TyNusXVJI5bkXvRrNJCU5fxg1Wud0aGiBGN7BjxyDP9YEIX4w3Ux-1YImPEZtQyxuB5CoXIyeQb8Bybn1VtljNCqBND3BKdxEtRYNZDKm2CHBuxF/w640-h426/_TJB9267.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />At 4pm we often take a taxi to La Punta where there are more people swimming and the waves are a little less alarming because of a rocky point jutting out nearby that offers some moderation to the swell.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGuNHhF1aTaok9frn2UoO7SvvohOYWZZSwbYjGKbDOeUy1cypQQa6vPXSG_FXB2Ecw6KEdSGZm6UDftR6hRtPQ5XGrite1dOieNouJSFee2utDkSnZlQJ5HP8VU5BYL4of47KzB-MPb7FBcUje0R_mnXMKGqfXAnuY-vb2F0Xhv-hyA_FJKBzjWSKx/s6000/_TJB9656.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGuNHhF1aTaok9frn2UoO7SvvohOYWZZSwbYjGKbDOeUy1cypQQa6vPXSG_FXB2Ecw6KEdSGZm6UDftR6hRtPQ5XGrite1dOieNouJSFee2utDkSnZlQJ5HP8VU5BYL4of47KzB-MPb7FBcUje0R_mnXMKGqfXAnuY-vb2F0Xhv-hyA_FJKBzjWSKx/w640-h426/_TJB9656.jpg" width="640" /></a></div> <p></p><p>There are so many motorbikes and scooters in use here - the streets at La Punta are lined with them and so I took a few minutes to stop at a scooter rental place to find out what they might charge. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSCFsPJpCuhwlAMpH-qv_atSnh9YletlY8Iq330FST1PTgcbBxX6l6BqQMkjDVO30cpCBW1oE6v5Ztj0sEV8rhbKo9S7K9dhgPxBhTqHw32z88T3UErbR4kWiuTIn69IeMN57-UXuNc8qs-QGIpXbxpcCscPFw_Q_pqjYdRgIY1oSSrZ9xrZc3UJBI/s6000/_TJB9673.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSCFsPJpCuhwlAMpH-qv_atSnh9YletlY8Iq330FST1PTgcbBxX6l6BqQMkjDVO30cpCBW1oE6v5Ztj0sEV8rhbKo9S7K9dhgPxBhTqHw32z88T3UErbR4kWiuTIn69IeMN57-UXuNc8qs-QGIpXbxpcCscPFw_Q_pqjYdRgIY1oSSrZ9xrZc3UJBI/w640-h426/_TJB9673.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /> They quoted $400 MX (approx $22 US) a day and $3500 MX ($190 US) for 2 weeks and so I checked with our AirBnb about parking one there and the really friendly and accommodating host told me that they had a scooter to rent for $200 a day if we liked.<p></p><p>So Anne and I revisited our earlier reservations about renting a scooter and that Friday evening we were off to La Punta on a little blue and white scooter along the back-roads of Zicatela for a swim, dinner and a ride back in the dark again along the sandy pot-holed back-roads.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL4KeIgqSzgN8jZstQuvgUweFh6vUpu0mlHRIL_PN4F1wldGyzS5zW9YXcMN6pwJRVNI1FAWoAvybSkBplsFKGL1G-JwAEM2bDzIM3FzPKajHoK1j9KiLv5z-JpqCtTeSHVw_7cw5iZzuudOWScJr6A3E5mFlox7Xh_QNpN-iditoMXBjiDOfmkj0K/s2432/Screenshot%202023-02-25%20at%205.04.16%20PM.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1660" data-original-width="2432" height="436" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL4KeIgqSzgN8jZstQuvgUweFh6vUpu0mlHRIL_PN4F1wldGyzS5zW9YXcMN6pwJRVNI1FAWoAvybSkBplsFKGL1G-JwAEM2bDzIM3FzPKajHoK1j9KiLv5z-JpqCtTeSHVw_7cw5iZzuudOWScJr6A3E5mFlox7Xh_QNpN-iditoMXBjiDOfmkj0K/w640-h436/Screenshot%202023-02-25%20at%205.04.16%20PM.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>It was a great feeling to be scootering around the town despite linear ruts in the paved roads that had our front wheel occasionally latch onto the direction of the rut for a second or two before popping out again. It was enough of a wobble to raise my anxiety just a little bit.<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-3rdN01RO0u6wcrNJDWmTJiaczNXfgmlvHK8MzJmhHpQknZUV4XfMyraVOwJ-g5IJAoxAhm5BakMvSSVuk9QaeNQ9l4Sl0BCOrCsQWeUnpIlvEIRIoMvIXgPFjE7hA4rqR5q8UH6oNlxeI4rrLZRhwvJXkO2JAWkekreSnKF7rvzLFAUcHj7TIIk8/s4032/IMG_3793.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-3rdN01RO0u6wcrNJDWmTJiaczNXfgmlvHK8MzJmhHpQknZUV4XfMyraVOwJ-g5IJAoxAhm5BakMvSSVuk9QaeNQ9l4Sl0BCOrCsQWeUnpIlvEIRIoMvIXgPFjE7hA4rqR5q8UH6oNlxeI4rrLZRhwvJXkO2JAWkekreSnKF7rvzLFAUcHj7TIIk8/w640-h480/IMG_3793.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Early morning street dogs with the linear ruts in the street<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p></p><p>We visited the huge Zicatela market on the Saturday, </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG0HRzye2st5uNnKaRotI3W65qPrLfZJZYA8Z_G2ccTvB6bJTYOlMMfkuSysf7bZi7JsjxvAiGErqM4XWglC4MxN6XqvxlhxtZs2YM6lLzLcvyH4G7kIkTinjXpASPBxjc76zurgek7m1a6Y4BNErnaTqVxU9Kk1ajtsugrY8ROqdlZenCS-2EMjLu/s4032/IMG_3814.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG0HRzye2st5uNnKaRotI3W65qPrLfZJZYA8Z_G2ccTvB6bJTYOlMMfkuSysf7bZi7JsjxvAiGErqM4XWglC4MxN6XqvxlhxtZs2YM6lLzLcvyH4G7kIkTinjXpASPBxjc76zurgek7m1a6Y4BNErnaTqVxU9Kk1ajtsugrY8ROqdlZenCS-2EMjLu/w640-h480/IMG_3814.HEIC" width="640" /></a></div>this time braving the highway for both the trip there and back. The market has a hangar-like roof over small brick shops that sell everything from meat and fish to clothing and a number of different grocery specialists including incredibly fresh vegetables and fruit.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTKZ8rCgYblPsL3fw_DF84nGEA_m0CIvP8RKUJMj8I4Ogp3gzcB3UEW5JXRKCDvOS-qBcGTDDOMIpaHRZ_SIP-aAZZhzW9Oh9601HnN7Ey3ztev3ggYkF3vssFQ9JeSB1niVPXvMPGGBPE-NLPVeeTBiKFOJELlun8adCZ6Pz0G8AKeCL-Qd3pgUuf/s4032/IMG_3853.HEIC" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTKZ8rCgYblPsL3fw_DF84nGEA_m0CIvP8RKUJMj8I4Ogp3gzcB3UEW5JXRKCDvOS-qBcGTDDOMIpaHRZ_SIP-aAZZhzW9Oh9601HnN7Ey3ztev3ggYkF3vssFQ9JeSB1niVPXvMPGGBPE-NLPVeeTBiKFOJELlun8adCZ6Pz0G8AKeCL-Qd3pgUuf/w640-h480/IMG_3853.HEIC" width="640" /></a></div><br /> The side walls have beautiful murals on them.<p></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9AVUgKkCZESJOMNqk8ARstgFoBIRCii7xkDN8s1DBFY2WBkpibNzJSDBsZAZZBlxKAq92xTwnx-bVCE9sXA4p9AmxxqCy7pPVeCSktgOYs90u04RucndZAc3aMIX9le3AOA8F7xeCjrQqv-eBAbu3AVghSmkAgFnuyQ3SBtKZnUfbU_vMAiRjPyV1/s4032/IMG_0606.HEIC" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9AVUgKkCZESJOMNqk8ARstgFoBIRCii7xkDN8s1DBFY2WBkpibNzJSDBsZAZZBlxKAq92xTwnx-bVCE9sXA4p9AmxxqCy7pPVeCSktgOYs90u04RucndZAc3aMIX9le3AOA8F7xeCjrQqv-eBAbu3AVghSmkAgFnuyQ3SBtKZnUfbU_vMAiRjPyV1/w640-h480/IMG_0606.HEIC" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Anne's photo of one of the murals in the Mercado<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p>It reminded me (in spirit) of the Victorian Market in Melbourne, Australia, although the concrete brick structures inside lacked the elegance of the wooden stalls of the Melbourne market. <br /></p><p>Anne has always been a little highly-strung. She startles easily even on a relaxed afternoon, and so I decided to give our scooter rides a running commentary so that none of what I was doing would be a surprise to her and cause unexpected reactions behind me. In particular I'd announce the moments when I took advantage of the many speed-bumps on the highway to cross in front of oncoming traffic knowing that they had to slow down a lot before proceeding.</p><p>Our last taxi ride back from La Punta on the Thursday night had a price increase from $50 MX to $80 MX so I felt good about the $200 MX a day for scootering around our town and to La Punta in the evenings and we did this for the first week.</p><p>On the Thursday I had to work late but it looked like we would make it to the beach in time for sunset so we set off on the scooter onto the highway and then an exit to a local road to the beach itself. The first speed-bump after the exit felt a little sharper than expected and as I accelerated after it, the back wheel spun out a bit under us. My running commentary to Anne was: "I think we went over a patch of sand, no worries" as I accelerated again the scooter did a 180 degree spin around although fortunately at this point we were going very slowly.</p><p>We got off and saw that the rear tire had separated from the wheel and my immediate thoughts went to the small details of how far we were from the AirBnb, how little we knew about how to get this fixed and where the hell would we park it for the night until we figured out what to do with it.</p><p>Anne's text messages to the AirBnb got a neutral response that wasn't much more than a "message received" at that point and so we wandered up the street a bit and I asked someone who was replacing a wheel on a small panel van if he knew where we could get a flat tire repaired. He said "no" but I'm not sure if that was because he misunderstood me. It turns out (after the fact) that "punchar" and "pinchar" means "to prick" and the various verb conjugations of this could mean "you prick" or "fucking" as in "pinche policia". It also means "kitchen assistant". What it doesn't mean is "puncture".</p><p>So my statement: "tengo una pincha" would quite literally mean "I have a prick" followed by "do you know where I can fix my scooter?" This would result in the answer "no" in most countries.</p><p>I saw a sign across the highway that said something about a "Moto" and there were clearly some motocycles there and people working on them so we made our way over there and found that the person behind the counter spoke English very well and said if we brought the scooter over he could have someone take a look at it for us.</p><p>Literally minutes later we were informed that the wheel was fixed and the person behind the counter explained that a wheel like that, if under-inflated could lose all of its air quite suddenly, for example when you went over a bump in the road.</p><p>We hadn't realized that the scooter wheel was flat in our trips back and forth to the beach, and it must have been given to us flat to begin with.</p><p>He refused to accept payment for re-inflating the tire after seating it correctly back on the wheel but I insisted on leaving a tip anyway.</p><p>He also complimented me on my Spanish - which was a first. This came because I had had a little conversation with him about where we were from and how my accent isn't (really) a USA accent. I still speak like a South African despite the 20 years we've been in the USA.</p><p>After the scare with the back tire (and realizing that we hadn't been using the scooter outside of the single trip to the beach every day) we decided that it was costing more to rent the scooter than the taxis would have cost every day so have stopped using it. We'll take another run at scooters, motorcycles or bicycles in some other destination.</p><p>We have enjoyed every trip to the beach. <br /></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwC8Gqu1O4wFtwSgRqgNa6KJ8btC2XjFfN9FRiVe9eAL9nDPJJVeCjmyvRq4rB64DZiaIH3syvs1m1InpjFXgJJHGYgHKJl1woIV5ykAdV82C_QdOGRT86uwO70w3LYSpgVn5MgmbJUlYaN1LKixc_j4dbPDtfBORgvjcp0ps1FU2tNRTHx-gmBgMz/s4032/IMG_3789.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwC8Gqu1O4wFtwSgRqgNa6KJ8btC2XjFfN9FRiVe9eAL9nDPJJVeCjmyvRq4rB64DZiaIH3syvs1m1InpjFXgJJHGYgHKJl1woIV5ykAdV82C_QdOGRT86uwO70w3LYSpgVn5MgmbJUlYaN1LKixc_j4dbPDtfBORgvjcp0ps1FU2tNRTHx-gmBgMz/w640-h480/IMG_3789.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>Even though the waves break close to the shore, you can still get some pretty good body surfing in. The beach gets pretty crowded close to sunset at La Punta where everyone also applauds the sunset as the last rays touch their skin.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dzNhds20nvJFOJuju1phPL8x1N9-fwle3Tvix5u9CfuCRCQZI9rLiT0gkIfK-WqmYhoBlrEH-Qp_mhxgZbh-A' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><br /><p></p><br /><p><br /></p>Timhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12828578695145994984noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8344844421099848427.post-62977504774095126102023-02-19T08:09:00.007-08:002023-02-19T11:57:48.082-08:00Misdirection in paradise<p>The small coastal town of Puerto Escondido is a short 1 hour flight on a small plane from Mexico City. </p><p>The airport is a single runway airport and reminded me of the Kimberley airport where you had to walk down the mobile staircase directly onto the runway and the heat would hit you as you step off the aircraft. We were dressed for the Mexico City weather and had to shed a sweatshirt immediately.<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4-nwQrB5bQJfgxnxxUk65BOYQ1yfLT3RtcPWCFSW7MegmwKYspnD6RTq14K_oikHpPZYAobPgGxj_vVb4bxmCxoj-GXrWMZz9Fj1MiJRt9Yz2LK3NwXu_G5rrmrDa87B_KkB4mYIAlfgWtOqdCj-iY_4SOMplzf0c7822jt4RG-HgNA6k1axO3D-r/s7173/IMG_E3591.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3285" data-original-width="7173" height="294" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4-nwQrB5bQJfgxnxxUk65BOYQ1yfLT3RtcPWCFSW7MegmwKYspnD6RTq14K_oikHpPZYAobPgGxj_vVb4bxmCxoj-GXrWMZz9Fj1MiJRt9Yz2LK3NwXu_G5rrmrDa87B_KkB4mYIAlfgWtOqdCj-iY_4SOMplzf0c7822jt4RG-HgNA6k1axO3D-r/w640-h294/IMG_E3591.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p>Our host offered to pick us up from the airport and he and his wife arrived within a few minutes of our Whatsapp message. They could speak some English but we valiantly kept speaking Spanish explaining to them that we really wanted to practice. Naturally they had to revert to a few English words to go over some of the details of where to shop and wash our clothes.<br /></p><p>The apartment is in the higher part of the town on a street called Septima Norte (7th street) and overlooks the ocean with a view that includes some of the houses on the edge of the town. Fortunately it had ceiling fans and the bedroom had an air conditioner to use at night.<br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis6GSh0fvdWuptwutBFPvvRWwGOd8Zeq5824Q48dCVPROVIw_5T23vI1_OYfSGZnTfIqQnZu0n6BU1xnjyWJ58WfM_a9-PH4xCysjU9kccFJNhSvrC-W7BanvKeLMLoBcWiDOdXfkoEhw4etXcn24ycHj--Dj8WqSJyrwLm3CXCZrSJONWWCxUOx6T/s4032/IMG_3596.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis6GSh0fvdWuptwutBFPvvRWwGOd8Zeq5824Q48dCVPROVIw_5T23vI1_OYfSGZnTfIqQnZu0n6BU1xnjyWJ58WfM_a9-PH4xCysjU9kccFJNhSvrC-W7BanvKeLMLoBcWiDOdXfkoEhw4etXcn24ycHj--Dj8WqSJyrwLm3CXCZrSJONWWCxUOx6T/w640-h480/IMG_3596.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dawn over Centro, Puerto Escondido<br /></td></tr></tbody></table> <p></p><p>We had last eaten at 10am at our favorite little coffee shop near Nick's apartment in Mexico City but once we had put our things down in the apartment Anne was keen to make our way to the ocean after we had changed into something cooler. </p><p>Our host told us the name of a good swimming beach which looked to be a 20min walk on Google maps so we set off in the late, hot afternoon down the long hill towards the beaches on the Southern side of the town.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglUct6LGfv6e-yrDQgUd5i6ceY4P8-zmqZHLq8UupqCJGo72DrupbhHbUNo4VSsyXcuaGuIEZYZcmpXUw5PrruzPSqMRPwS1blXZoI7UBeaqIixJF7-MrAiKUT1G7R5CQs3R-hWQivI0h9PhxtIVJtYMCbzpWrmKWXa3ArAYlAX8pZ-6yjOCrxfvEn/s4032/IMG_3607.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglUct6LGfv6e-yrDQgUd5i6ceY4P8-zmqZHLq8UupqCJGo72DrupbhHbUNo4VSsyXcuaGuIEZYZcmpXUw5PrruzPSqMRPwS1blXZoI7UBeaqIixJF7-MrAiKUT1G7R5CQs3R-hWQivI0h9PhxtIVJtYMCbzpWrmKWXa3ArAYlAX8pZ-6yjOCrxfvEn/w640-h480/IMG_3607.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p>The temperatures here only vary by a small amount between day and night. We are in the winter now and the nighttime temperatures "plummet" to 72F (22C) at night and go up to 86F (30C) during the day. Every day. </p><p>An article on the climate in Puerto Escondido says: "The temperature in Puerto Escondido varies so little throughout the year
that it is not entirely meaningful to discuss hot and cold seasons". I suspect it is a little less comfortable in the summer when the humidity is high and the few people we have asked all said it is much the same all year around.</p><p>The beach is called Carrizalillo (which I still struggle to pronounce). It has a staircase with 157 steps and was fairly crowded with tourists and locals. The waves are what we used to call "dumpers" in South Africa - they break right on the beach and dump you in the sand. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_taaAex-Tj6Tv8DMravxCWdN9Q0O-T8bKESpsnSdbBAmF6vjzYhjmS5THlytXcWEwNzelhFJeZ3rG13iRs-n6DuK9OVd3hSaaNGA1yHuvGnLFIn3A58pLuYrOMP6k_VTROLyZgpxzT7bYUC9KmIf1YedHWKQQxFHEMo_AovrsiO8zrHb4KLPGgOzs/s4032/IMG_3592.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_taaAex-Tj6Tv8DMravxCWdN9Q0O-T8bKESpsnSdbBAmF6vjzYhjmS5THlytXcWEwNzelhFJeZ3rG13iRs-n6DuK9OVd3hSaaNGA1yHuvGnLFIn3A58pLuYrOMP6k_VTROLyZgpxzT7bYUC9KmIf1YedHWKQQxFHEMo_AovrsiO8zrHb4KLPGgOzs/w640-h480/IMG_3592.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />The beach edge is pretty steep which made me wonder about a rip-tide but there were plenty of people swimming just beyond where the waves were breaking. A fairly large number of surfers - mostly people learning to surf - were out quite a bit further where another set of waves were breaking. The waves out there are a lot smaller and slower to break which make it an ideal beach for learning to surf.<br /><p></p><p>The sea is warm for the Atlantic - on average around 84F (26C). This surprised me but I guess 84F water feels a lot cooler than 86F air temperature for a number of reasons. It is a very comfortable water temperature for swimming and I didn't hesitate to get in with Anne.<br /></p><p>There was a sign at the top of the stairs warning that smoking and nudity (among other obvious things) are illegal, but a small percentage of people ignore these rules. Topless bathers are less offensive than someone smoking upwind of you but it is easy enough to move as long as only a few people are doing it.<br /></p><p>A rather nice tradition is that, on days when the sun sets unobstructed by clouds, the whole beach erupts into applause and whoops as the last ray of sun disappears below the horizon. A tradition that is repeated at some of the other beaches that face West along this coast. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicyQ2DmUwRGVqbTNEk50NgEstc_2t8ijJVNd5RtqXcJajIYNdF9NJmjdvmO_QtBTYZQYvh9rC_itN-AjHIaPEU0tpOB1mWexacr_LuMz69_EVDrvbgGmd3OOU3HC-j-gp1yRrE0Z5fGP4i_wRXxasXuWJnigpMOkJEEsH03sAEIAZR5dCbvwjxVitP/s5321/_TJB8708.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3547" data-original-width="5321" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicyQ2DmUwRGVqbTNEk50NgEstc_2t8ijJVNd5RtqXcJajIYNdF9NJmjdvmO_QtBTYZQYvh9rC_itN-AjHIaPEU0tpOB1mWexacr_LuMz69_EVDrvbgGmd3OOU3HC-j-gp1yRrE0Z5fGP4i_wRXxasXuWJnigpMOkJEEsH03sAEIAZR5dCbvwjxVitP/w640-h426/_TJB8708.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>After sunset we walked the 20min back up the hill and decided that we'd visit a Peruvian restaurant (called Chicama) that our friend Gina had recommended to us. I looked it up on Google maps - about a 15min trip - and we started walking down the main road thinking we'd get a Taxi on the way. At the bottom of the main street we came out onto a 4 lane highway that Anne took an instant dislike to. It was more or less deserted of pedestrians and not well lit. It was our first night so we had no idea how safe it would be to walk there. We'd already walked 10 min so I figured we'd be ok to keep going but naturally our patience with things in general was waning quickly as our blood sugar continued to spiral downward.<p></p><p>A few minutes later, Anne asked how far we still had to walk and I casually opened google maps to check and saw that I'd had "by car" set when I had looked for the restaurant. "By foot" put us around 15 minutes into a 1hr 6min walk!<br /></p><p>We had heard that Taxis are easy to get in Puerto Escondido but we hadn't had much luck walking down the main road and on this highway there was nowhere for a taxi to stop. None of the ones we saw were looking for a passenger. So after walking for another 10 minutes we decided to go across the road to a rather nondescript looking Hotel where the really sweet receptionist said she would help us get a taxi. </p><p>When we asked if she knew of a nearby restaurant she let us know that they had a restaurant on their top floor so without hesitation we went up to take a look. We were the only people in the restaurant which had a simple functional layout but the view was rather nice and we were starving, so we took a table at the edge of the balcony.<br /></p><p>We took a look at the menu and ordered drinks. We spotted what looked like safe choices of meals: "Carne" (meat) for me and "Pescado" (fish) for Anne, as there didn't seem to be anything even vaguely vegetarian. We used google translate (thank you Google Fi) to check out other items on the menu but one item which included "small grasshoppers" and another for octopus convinced us that there weren't really any other options that we'd choose.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghPxskhxBH0o3VtjZBmqt9_ME5yFeh7ePzdnFoX-9U95kyG0GeOIVPFtYE3amnUkKr588LV04jK3szn2TI6BdPmcyB9j-nGLOw93oogg9vsC_FcTSX8sJLdSCUXKG78-XhHulCI_6g3gkOvoDi6tGsqQNTvUQgXpNV7oXXua3eenXuzkAS6a57aPug/s1744/Screenshot%202023-02-18%20at%2011.27.01%20PM.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="1744" height="277" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghPxskhxBH0o3VtjZBmqt9_ME5yFeh7ePzdnFoX-9U95kyG0GeOIVPFtYE3amnUkKr588LV04jK3szn2TI6BdPmcyB9j-nGLOw93oogg9vsC_FcTSX8sJLdSCUXKG78-XhHulCI_6g3gkOvoDi6tGsqQNTvUQgXpNV7oXXua3eenXuzkAS6a57aPug/s320/Screenshot%202023-02-18%20at%2011.27.01%20PM.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p></p><p>I had assumed that my "carne" was a steak and asked for it to be cooked medium which somewhat puzzled the waitress. I think she just put it down to me not knowing much Spanish because she wandered off to get the chef to start preparing the meal. </p><p>The meal was a surprise. Anne got a whole, very boney small fish, grilled to a crisp. The presence of the head and the staring eyes were so distracting that after staring back at it for a few moments, she cut the head off and wrapped it in a napkin - out of sight, (kind of) out of mind. </p><p>My meat was prepared in a very specific way called "carne asada" which is a thinly sliced piece (1-2mm) of beef, also grilled to a crisp and served with beans and rice and some salad and tortillas. I had seen this style of preparation previously in street food in Mexico City. The intention is to break up the meat and wrap it in tortillas but it was as tough as leather.<br /></p><p>My mind and stomach were prepared for a juicy steak cooked medium rare and Anne had imagined a white fish fillet with some delicious sauce. After a few moments of dull recognition our hunger gave us the big mental adjustment needed and we ate.<br /></p><p>Once we had eaten though, we started to feel a little more human and the receptionist accompanied us out on the dual lane highway to try to help us flag down a taxi. She was so helpful and compassionate - we were two lost gringos who really needed help.</p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiR5IBFr_LeMJXKt3awy_Ffq7EHkvTDpV1TDDE6r9war13N0b4XQmd9cc-wN6ZI_vYKKyet6Ojlq0dlYSYoUylXiRY82VKyS5cSEqYffQ9n8pDkhpliDlGh9_kiLvhZXoM8mphZ0jEu3dhbYtEbdbeUV-sHr-ElRVr40xmPN0jBER3PIQPqA0NQMjW5/s4032/IMG_3666.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiR5IBFr_LeMJXKt3awy_Ffq7EHkvTDpV1TDDE6r9war13N0b4XQmd9cc-wN6ZI_vYKKyet6Ojlq0dlYSYoUylXiRY82VKyS5cSEqYffQ9n8pDkhpliDlGh9_kiLvhZXoM8mphZ0jEu3dhbYtEbdbeUV-sHr-ElRVr40xmPN0jBER3PIQPqA0NQMjW5/w640-h480/IMG_3666.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A large mural on the 2 lane highway not far from our Hotel of the first night<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p>After 10min of waiting in vain I told her that we might try walking back up one of the side roads close to the hotel and she agreed that we may find a taxi easier that way. She refused the tip that Anne offered her for all of her help and waved goodbye as we headed off. Sure enough as we rounded the nearest corner a taxi was dropping off a passenger and we were able to get back to our apartment without much fuss, exhausted and a little shell-shocked.</p><p>In retrospect we should probably have taken care of eating right after visiting the beach at one of the restaurants close to that beach but, even though some mistakes were made, cool heads prevailed and we didn't have a "hangry spat" on the Puerto Escondido highway.<br /></p><p>We did visit the Peruvian restaurant the next night as a treat to ourselves - by taxi this time. </p><p>What an amazing experience! </p><p>The young people serving there, particularly behind the bar made it the happiest restaurant we've ever visited. They were singing along with the music, dancing and mixing drinks in the most engaging way. We each had a meal of potatoes and egg and a delicious sauce. I took a shot of the famous Guatemalan Rum (Zacapa) which the barman said was the best drink in the house.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbx3Ue0xxuSZABbKh5gE2ms8at2YFTa0Flb_6dCTadup_FYYF-68cirlw33J4UPQMn5hGfqassrTg5yO6jLMgN9MpwHEd_bVMzoXkQXr0haNdq6aSqBl8HdELwt9lFSoeH_L6TGeUBKMYr_H_ISj2JjO1Ytx8_coR4L2Fx-wnrNbwObyNvYfa2eb9e/s4032/IMG_3599.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbx3Ue0xxuSZABbKh5gE2ms8at2YFTa0Flb_6dCTadup_FYYF-68cirlw33J4UPQMn5hGfqassrTg5yO6jLMgN9MpwHEd_bVMzoXkQXr0haNdq6aSqBl8HdELwt9lFSoeH_L6TGeUBKMYr_H_ISj2JjO1Ytx8_coR4L2Fx-wnrNbwObyNvYfa2eb9e/w640-h480/IMG_3599.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>We stayed in Puerto Escondido Centro for just over two weeks with a daily routine that involved me working from 8am local time until 4pm (excepting for a few days where work intruded into the evening) and then taking a taxi to the beach. After sunset each day we would walk all the way back to the apartment in the cooler dark - on some days stopping at a restaurant - we found a couple that sold a steak called the New York which was right up my alley. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBs-7oTC03ZYvwJyeoNNgDIZ9orVsQuys-oRlqSYOcsXwrzt_rziSLgA_q5V_Ucw1LI3FB0tvHn7yluXaZfkVi2E1lYGUvXBc-xapXh2Wn4tthW_5vVlVAXStWHWPMYUXu8Q6R0Tv8aOBeQXhG4Qc6k14qpLFVL2rcB7fcmqxekskVq-DTBgOvFfSQ/s4032/IMG_E3634.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBs-7oTC03ZYvwJyeoNNgDIZ9orVsQuys-oRlqSYOcsXwrzt_rziSLgA_q5V_Ucw1LI3FB0tvHn7yluXaZfkVi2E1lYGUvXBc-xapXh2Wn4tthW_5vVlVAXStWHWPMYUXu8Q6R0Tv8aOBeQXhG4Qc6k14qpLFVL2rcB7fcmqxekskVq-DTBgOvFfSQ/w640-h480/IMG_E3634.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p>We tried 3 other beaches but tended to always return to Carrizalillo because despite the rough waves on the beach, swimming beyond them is rather comfortable and the evening ritual of the sunset is a good way to end the day.</p><p>On the Saturday of the weekend after arriving we had paid for an early morning trip on a boat to see dolphins, whales and turtles. We had mixed feelings about this while we out there - the captain of the boat didn't see two turtles that he motored over and at the beginning of the trip about 10 boats were juggling to get close to the only pair of whales that were spotted that day (he said it was a mother and child) .</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN2ii4I51NIxEmfegippDcvC9cl3I6rFD2S55LkIeaCqyKjXKUVymi8WqENUDDA7Jjpyu8jWxczEFeb60O2wQQB-2nBymNXjfuBiFVaZF4JwHXs-FoZVnRKCvQnff7lNKaqGIRE3K5F_3PionSfb5WAZnaCJjPNbiTIu8otxenOw5UgiHzZQgoU8cq/s5427/_TJB8914.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3618" data-original-width="5427" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN2ii4I51NIxEmfegippDcvC9cl3I6rFD2S55LkIeaCqyKjXKUVymi8WqENUDDA7Jjpyu8jWxczEFeb60O2wQQB-2nBymNXjfuBiFVaZF4JwHXs-FoZVnRKCvQnff7lNKaqGIRE3K5F_3PionSfb5WAZnaCJjPNbiTIu8otxenOw5UgiHzZQgoU8cq/w640-h426/_TJB8914.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p>Despite these misgivings it was amazing to come in among a pod of dolphins chasing fish and leaping about and be able to drop into the water and see some of them swimming near us - even if briefly. We also got to swim close to a turtle though to be fair it was more swimming away from us than with us.<span><br /></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip0797HV5ydW6QJWOuAgQLsBiPrZsLEaEFKdqgc92BleMt3pPtZnak-kHQhnWOuNS8B41pLGUV1bqn9pPS6XmgZtrgdVVrIyD5CsYb1v7pQKq5vXzgqwMbrpIpvfV1kufbsqcTOwbN96pO-9LVDrobkdnHk1LCcDmDY5iShZRsBevUy1mu0H3WI7zY/s2574/_TJB8781.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1716" data-original-width="2574" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip0797HV5ydW6QJWOuAgQLsBiPrZsLEaEFKdqgc92BleMt3pPtZnak-kHQhnWOuNS8B41pLGUV1bqn9pPS6XmgZtrgdVVrIyD5CsYb1v7pQKq5vXzgqwMbrpIpvfV1kufbsqcTOwbN96pO-9LVDrobkdnHk1LCcDmDY5iShZRsBevUy1mu0H3WI7zY/w640-h426/_TJB8781.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>On the way back we saw a few flying fish. They are quite incredible because they can glide for a really long time. At first I thought I was seeing a bird with a shiny stripe gliding just above the waves and then it was gone! When I spotted the second one I suddenly realized what it was!<br /><p></p><p>When we got back we went to a nearby beach where we were offered a day long rental of a beach recliner in shade and all the food we could eat for $600MX pesos. I'm not a big fan of hanging out at a beach all day doing not much and fortunately we aren't big eaters because by about 4pm when we decided we'd had enough the owner calculated how much food we'd had (breakfast, lunch and some drinks) and when he was satisfied that we had not spent over the $600 he said all good, thank you and I paid him. I realized that his "all you can eat" was indeed conditional on the all not going over the offered price for the recliner.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_DB0OSTwUhGkyYBGn3rGLV8shW-riy7cg0YzAhBYZGqmjmxHjY66tFFiWmJqXjq-t554B5le9H0fJdNd4jAZ6owWCuAC_AIemNzEDFaqZS-r6o_tR5YsoGIVwBlggGjS2iXRbEFG4N17WJablNY7gXjRC6yn-R9N5w64NQXvIvWIZumrkU66c-1vo/s4032/IMG_0405.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_DB0OSTwUhGkyYBGn3rGLV8shW-riy7cg0YzAhBYZGqmjmxHjY66tFFiWmJqXjq-t554B5le9H0fJdNd4jAZ6owWCuAC_AIemNzEDFaqZS-r6o_tR5YsoGIVwBlggGjS2iXRbEFG4N17WJablNY7gXjRC6yn-R9N5w64NQXvIvWIZumrkU66c-1vo/w640-h480/IMG_0405.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>I've had an interesting relationship with pesos while we've been here. The conversion rate is around 18pesos to $1 US so $600MX is $32 US for both of us for a day on the beach including breakfast and lunch but somehow after paying for things like taxi rides and meals in the center I found myself starting get annoyed when suddenly the price is $20MX higher for a taxi ride. It is like $1.25 but somehow I'm not making the conversion any more, just reacting to the higher price.<p></p><p>Of course the cab drivers had a few things that they did that I had to learn about over days of using them. The rate when we got there was $40MX from our house to the beach but a number of drivers were asking $50MX which was confusing and then halfway through our stay it was consistently $50MX. I suspect this is the "tourist" price because plenty of locals use the taxis and I doubt they tolerate a lot of price increases.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI7fDGP6M2Fq_2pF1-PAFn7nieo1tHmiUa9jKtmB5Y96n8GfDrrUjyVl82GAdyicqU70z1ilymUtQRxwOg_z3JBiN5XqCPkFb9uqQ5vu0vfJ5haVXwmo5-rZCaYZKC46662ykQEFPt8EEO80HhoEhwgJVybGcmC67Airbo2Q5_DEVBlXCBJTShnbRT/s1783/IMG_3606.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1336" data-original-width="1783" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI7fDGP6M2Fq_2pF1-PAFn7nieo1tHmiUa9jKtmB5Y96n8GfDrrUjyVl82GAdyicqU70z1ilymUtQRxwOg_z3JBiN5XqCPkFb9uqQ5vu0vfJ5haVXwmo5-rZCaYZKC46662ykQEFPt8EEO80HhoEhwgJVybGcmC67Airbo2Q5_DEVBlXCBJTShnbRT/w640-h480/IMG_3606.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>The other trick is claiming that they don't have change when you don't produce the exact amount.<p></p><p>Our first trip to the Peruvian restaurant cost us $100MX but later in the week we did another trip and the driver said $150MX when I asked how much it was. Anne heard the 50 but I just heard $100MX and so I gave him $100MX when we arrived and he put up a bit of a fight before letting it go.</p><p>I suppose having the right change for $40 and/or $50 for local trips and $150 for the longer trips to the further towns was the best approach.</p><p>We thought about renting a scooter but decided that the taxi drivers and the sudden speed bumps and potholes in the road made it a little unsafe. Besides renting a scooter would be a daily cost more than the price of the taxi to the beach.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmdk8c646_DAjaCMl8d3nSu6a-TVMYglXuocZR1RKONYPgF-kJJS3-kTXXXqpZX4iZuFhyZD2OenAVAFwnFg494ocgSmQ98mgWyUO2hAoF0oLsaglPX7Mo2TV6fsY00kUFohI6ceOIO9ZZTrtENMBK54U11oXyr7GLtabd-XaARMZVOpRLqM_cqwuJ/s2368/IMG_E3672.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1661" data-original-width="2368" height="448" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmdk8c646_DAjaCMl8d3nSu6a-TVMYglXuocZR1RKONYPgF-kJJS3-kTXXXqpZX4iZuFhyZD2OenAVAFwnFg494ocgSmQ98mgWyUO2hAoF0oLsaglPX7Mo2TV6fsY00kUFohI6ceOIO9ZZTrtENMBK54U11oXyr7GLtabd-XaARMZVOpRLqM_cqwuJ/w640-h448/IMG_E3672.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p>Further east of Central are two communities that have a lot more tourist activity - Zicatela - which has this long curved beach with impressive waves and La Punta which is a beach near the end of this long beach with a row of restaurants and shops and tons of people. La Punta is where the Peruvian restaurant is.</p><p>Our next AirBnb rental is at Zicatela and they have a pool which should make it pretty luxurious.</p><p>On our last visit to Carizalillo a young couple started dancing on the beach - I swear that they had only just met but they got a good round of applause from everyone nearby when the music stopped.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dz3Ii1u7A3G8WyizjJsE2wOO5zFOHi5IKr2p-wWFsk9CCYtWxXG2Gyo_wAJSpQ-PJVeOSx-EDn3hjGIYII3tA' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><br /><p></p><br /><p><br /></p>Timhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12828578695145994984noreply@blogger.com0